| MDX Moto |
Allright every one I have combed this forum till my eyes started bleeding, so I decided to visit a local high end audio installer in Phx, AZ and figure out how much its gonna hurt to have a decent system installed.
I have made my choices of components (will probably buy over the web as the shop prices where 80-100% highr than web prices), but here is my problem.
The shop wants to build a custom enclosure in the factory location that protrudes 5-6 inches out into the cargo area,about even with the third row passenger arm rest. On this forum I have read alot of posts that refer to " custom enclosure in the stock location" and have even seen some pictures of subs mounted in the stock location(with an enclosure behind the panel presumably)
Is the shop going the wrong direction by reccomending such a large enclosure (sub would be a/d/s/r10) or are they being lazy?
On top of that they want to charge 400-500 dollars for the enclosure alone which seems more expensive than the other prices I have seen listed by other members.
I was wondering if I could get some opinions and picutres of sub enclosures in the factory location so I can figure out how to proceed.
I think maybe I need to talk to some other installers on labor prices and compnent prices.
The system will be go something like this: MB Quart 216 seperates (Front) MB Quart 116 co-ax (rear) A/D/S r10 sub, PPI PCX-5800 amp, Audio source controller (necessary since I am keeping stock head unit)
The shop quoted me $2800 installed with enclosure
I thouught that sounded a little steep
Let me know what you think:( |
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| AikiMDX |
quote:
Originally posted by MDX Moto
Allright every one I have combed this forum till my eyes started bleeding, so I decided to visit a local high end audio installer in Phx, AZ and figure out how much its gonna hurt to have a decent system installed.
I have made my choices of components (will probably buy over the web as the shop prices where 80-100% highr than web prices), but here is my problem.
The shop wants to build a custom enclosure in the factory location that protrudes 5-6 inches out into the cargo area,about even with the third row passenger arm rest. On this forum I have read alot of posts that refer to " custom enclosure in the stock location" and have even seen some pictures of subs mounted in the stock location(with an enclosure behind the panel presumably)
Is the shop going the wrong direction by reccomending such a large enclosure (sub would be a/d/s/r10) or are they being lazy?
On top of that they want to charge 400-500 dollars for the enclosure alone which seems more expensive than the other prices I have seen listed by other members.
I was wondering if I could get some opinions and picutres of sub enclosures in the factory location so I can figure out how to proceed.
I think maybe I need to talk to some other installers on labor prices and compnent prices.
The system will be go something like this: MB Quart 216 seperates (Front) MB Quart 116 co-ax (rear) A/D/S r10 sub, PPI PCX-5800 amp, Audio source controller (necessary since I am keeping stock head unit)
The shop quoted me $2800 installed with enclosure
I thouught that sounded a little steep
Let me know what you think:(
I think it's a load of rubbish. On my install, the sealed enclosure fits in the factory location. You couldn't tell the difference without taking the grill off. While I thought my enclosure was expensive it was less than what you are talking about, around $350-400. I think you might want to ask them to sharpen their pencils. My total install was about that much but included MB Quart Q218.61's and Crossfire components mounted as a coaxial in the back.
BTW, what do you need the Audio source controller for? |
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| MDX Moto |
Aiki,
They are reccomending the audio source as managment tool for the low level inputs(I am keeping the stock head unit). Honestly, after looking at the unit and its functions, I can't fault their reccomendation. The unit allows pretty advanced control of gain and frequency, and should allow me to fine tune the systems low level inputs. But, I could be wrong....... Most of the other posts I have reade just used simple low level line out adapters and all adjustment was left up to the amp and its tuning capabilities. They are quoting me $300 for the unit, which I have found on the web for much less. |
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| slackass |
| MDX Moto. I had a custom enclosure built into my factory location as well. My installer had to cut a piece of the side wall out because otherwise, there would have been no way to access some of the wiring or the drain tube if anything ever went wrong. Anyway, you can not tell there is anything in there until you take off the grill and find the 10" Image Dynamics sub. The enclosure has an internal volume of about .8 cubic feet. Nothing sticks out and it just looks factory. Cost me $240 and sounds unbelievable. The enclosure fit so well and is so solid that is took away the rattles I had when trying to run freeair. Hope that helps. |
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| R Stevens |
MDX Moto,
I have a custom fiberglass enclosure also and it does not protude into the cabin at all. In fact, the factory grill is still used in its original location. Subs often have a recommended optimum enclosure size. I have the Boston Pro 10.5LF powered by an Alpine MRD-500 500 watt mono amp. The recommended enclosure size is .51 cubic feet and the bass reproduction is incredible.
I think you are going in the right direction with the Audio source controller. I replaced the factor head unit for a number of reasons including the ability to tune the system. Bass level varies considerably among songs and artists. It is a real advantage to able to make those adjustments while you are driving. |
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| kimsta |
Rstevens:
How much was the custom enclosure, and which shop did you get it done at?
MDXMoto:
What kind of Audio source controller are you planning to get? Brand/Model?
Thanks,
Charles |
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| R Stevens |
kimsat,
The sub enclosure was done by Myer-Emco in Sterling, VA. I have no idea about the cost as it was one labor fee for the entire install. If you are in this area and intereste, pm me and I'll give you a name and number to call. |
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| Curtsan |
I am also in the process of building my own custom enclosure.
I want to go with a 12" Alpine R series DVC, which needs about .7 minimum air space and about 8" mounting depth.
I will be coming out into the cargo area about 3 inches, and just about to the window in height.
Here's what I found in my early research: A custom box that is totally fibreglassed within the panel cavity will work and sound great and it is possible to get the needed cubic feet for a good 10" sub. The way they do this however is to utilize irregualr shaping of the "box" in a non typical box shape. My understanding is that the walls for the sheetmetal and internal panel cavity are used and sealed with fibreglass to form the enclosure, leaving only the factory hole as the mounting baffle for the sub. It is a great way to maximize space and that "stealth" look. Only problem is that these boxes are permanent (ther may be exceptions to this, I am generalizing) . For the most part, never removeable, and really so what? I mean all subs sound better in sealed rather than free air anyway right?
I chose to not go this way though since A) I needed more depth than this would give with the model of sub I want to use, even in a 10" size, and B) wanted to be able to remove the box down the road if need be and revert eveything back to totally factory.
I just like having that flexibility.
So, my box is kind of bulky, but should sound fine, and although it protrudes into the cargo area a bit, it isn't that much...plus I get to now use a top of the line 12" sub....
Think of a typical (sort of) wood box , with the back cut out and a part that extends out of it into the hollow area where the factory sub was mounted. Imagine something like a small round 1 gallon pail attached to the back of the wood sub box, and forming part of the box enclosure. This is basically what mine looks like. I made it out of fibreglass , attached to the wood box part that sticks out into the cargo area. The fibreglass "pail" area out the back is basically to gain some use of the hollow area in the wall cavity, and allow the huge magnet to go in to...
Wood is 1" MDF for back, sides, top, bottom, and front baffle is 2 layers of 3/4" MDF sandwiched together (1.5" total) so I can get a recessed look to the sub itself. 12" grille will be flush with the surface of the box, (covered in carpeting.) front mounting baffle is a bit thick, but this way I can accomp;lish the flush look, and reduce vibrations totally. But yes, I did use a lot of extra space in the trunk for this method...overkill...maybe??
Fibrleglass back area that goes through factory sub hole and into wall cavity is about 5 layes for firbreglass resin and cloth (around 1/4" thick, I then used two layers or dynamat to wrap the back all around the fibreglass paart of the box, and put a layer inside it as well. I then added one more layer of fibreglass, which in essence sandwiches the dynamat in it. This was my own design and not based on anything I had seen, so not sure if this is how the pros would do it or not...(they seem to be secretive about this when asked?)
Anyway, I am just waiting on the carpet to come in and apply, then it will be done. Hope this give you some thoughts....cost, fibreglass resin and cloth $20, MDF $20 (with lots left over) and carpet $20...when it comes in....some screws and wood glue a few bucks...lots of time, estimated 20 hours to get it right.
The trick for me was to make it out of cardboard first, check interior vloume, the modify as needed to make use of all space possible. Then reduce accordingly for the thickness of your wood...and begin crafting.... |
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| MDX Moto |
Kimsta,
I forget exactly which model audio source, but it has frequency rolloff control for all four channels plus sub cross control. I have since been told by other installers that it is probably overkill, and that there are other line level out to rca converters that are cheaper and you use the amp to tune frequencies, control bass level etc.
Curtsan,
I have thought about building my own box, but time is the issue. So in my case I must spend money to save time. |
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| kimsta |
quote:
Originally posted by MDX Moto
Kimsta,
I forget exactly which model audio source, but it has frequency rolloff control for all four channels plus sub cross control. I have since been told by other installers that it is probably overkill, and that there are other line level out to rca converters that are cheaper and you use the amp to tune frequencies, control bass level etc.
Moto,
Have you considered getting a DSP unit? You can get a decent one for $300, and it allows you to do alot more than control the requency rolloff. |
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| GSRpilot |
Here are some photos from Alpine's website. I am very impressed with the quality the paint and design of the subwoofer enclosure.
Passenger's side:
Driver's side:
View from the rear:
I understand we can't have the amps installed at that location because of the third-row seats, but at least these pictures give us an idea of what can be done with an installation of aftermarket subwoofer(s).
GSRpilot |
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| mdxxxx |
quote:
Originally posted by GSRpilot
Here are some photos from Alpine's website. I am very impressed with the quality the paint and design of the subwoofer enclosure...
Nice!:29: |
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| MDX Moto |
Kimsta,
I will do research on mobile DSP's. I have one for my home system, but I don't use it that much because alters the music too much for my taste. I did'nt think about it for crossover control...could be interesting. I am wondering about where to mount it. I like the idea of the Audio Source, due to its set it and forget it design. Once I have the cross over frequencies set where I want them, I don't plan on messing with them too much...except for changin sub level which I can do by remote. |
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| kimsta |
Moto,
Check out the Pioneer DEQ9200. My friend had one in his prelude, and it sounded really clean.
I'm trying to save up so I can get 20's. I am planning to upgrade my audio after I get my shoes. I'll probably get a DSP unit when I do, because the bose blows.
Let me know what you decide on (audio controller or DSP).
Charles |
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