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Is there any way to configure either of the two front power outlets (preferably the one in the console) to be hot all the time? I am looking for the same solution for my wife's 2000 TL.
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Doug;
I was thinking the same thing, but never really spent the time to figure it out.
I've got the schematics, but when I looked I didn't see an 'easy' solution. (Like a relay to jumper, etc.) My recollection is that there is a common point for alot of the accessories, and any jumpers would keep them on too. I think it would require cutting the feed to the accessory outlet and finding hot, fused line.
Kind of sucks for keeping cell phones charged, no?
Let me check again later this week and I'll post what I find.
Ard |
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Yeah what's the deal with that? Why would they have them go off when the cars turned off? I think they should have at least one stay on all the time. I'm not going to mess with it though. Something will probably get screwed up and I'll be screwed. I'll just keep as it is. Gee aren't you glad I said that.
lmeans
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I believe it is a philosophical thing with different manufacturers:
On the one hand, a live outlet is convenient, and lets you power phones, CD/Audio, Refridgerators.
On the other hand, you CAN run the battery down and find yourself stranded.
Every Acura I've been in has them switched off with ignition off.
Fords leave em live.
Both are fused, so it isn't a safety issue. (Unless you plug in a barbeque starter and leave it...)
Ard
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I'd sure like to know if the console outlet can be made live as well. I was used to leaving my cell phone in my vehicle to charge. Now I have to take the $#%@ thing in every night and charge it. Sometimes I forget it in the charger and end up phoneless for the day.
I'm thinking of running new wires through the firewall and installing a real, usable outlet. |
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Since I have no MDX, I can't speak specifically to the vehicle - but in my old car, the outlet was wired to the fuse box. All I did was do a little creative wiring there to bring 12V straight to that fuse leg, and I was set.
Again - don't know if this will help you, since I don't know if all those outlets are fused to the box, or even on the same circuit for that matter. |
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I don't think this is a design flaw. I think this is a philisophical difference.
Most domestic cars leave the power outlet (cigarette lighter) on ALL the time.
Most Japanese cars do not.
Why the difference? If you happen to leave something plugged in that really drains the battery (say a laptop computer, etc) you will come out the next morning to a dead car battery.
I generally like it functioning this way. I charge my phone at home in the base stand, and quick charge it (if needed) while I'm driving (with the engine running). Plus most digital phones these days with LI-Ion batteries last for days.
Again, it's just a different philosophy. |
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Hey Atlanta:
Glad to hear you drive with the engine running. Probably hurts your gas mileage though!
Happy Trails |
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quote:
Originally posted by AtlantaMDX
I don't think this is a design flaw. I think this is a philisophical difference.
Most domestic cars leave the power outlet (cigarette lighter) on ALL the time.
Most Japanese cars do not.
Why the difference? If you happen to leave something plugged in that really drains the battery (say a laptop computer, etc) you will come out the next morning to a dead car battery.
I generally like it functioning this way. I charge my phone at home in the base stand, and quick charge it (if needed) while I'm driving (with the engine running). Plus most digital phones these days with LI-Ion batteries last for days.
Again, it's just a different philosophy.
I agree it's a design philosophy. I would just like to implement a work-around. My Dodge's main cigarette lighter outlet was switched while the power outlet was not. This was a good combination. I had the radar detector plugged into the switched outlet and the phone in the always on outlet.
Tonight I tried putting a power lead from the passenger seat fuse over to the accessory fuse in the fuse box by the floor (passenger side), but power still only gets through with the key turned to accy or on.
I wonder if anyone has been successful rewiring this or implementing a work-around. |
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After a quick look at the schematics, it appears that you could pull wire I16 off the passenger's under-dash fuse/relay box, and attach it to G11.
Understand that in doing this, you may:
-kill your battery
-void your warrantee
-fry your electrical system
-burn your MDX to ashes
-hurt or kill yourself or someone else, somehow
-etc., etc.
And you would not have anyone to blame but yourself, and especially not me!
Seriously! Don't even think of doing anything that some guy suggested on the internet!
Sheesh! |
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| JerryL |
| Has anyone found a way to configure the front or console power outlets to be hot all the time? |
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| ardvarkus |
Hey Jerry-
Man, this is an old thread...
I'd forgotten about this until someone asked me for schematics earlier this week for a radar detector hookup- I realized I never did fix if for my wife to have no excuses for a dead phone!
I'll try to look at it this week and if successful, post something (so you too can blow up your battery and void your warranty...)
Adam
PS Anything *I* post WILL have the appropriate disclaimers... |
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| davegood |
| This is one of my big pet peeves -- has anyone had any luck figuring out how to wire this as always on? |
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| frostyra |
Looking in the electrical manual, it ain't easy! Fuse 9 (15A) in the the under-dash fuse/relay box on the passenger's side feeds through the "Accessory Power Socket Relay" to power the audio unit, nav unit, nav display or multi-information display, the front and console accessory sockets, and the lighter ( if you have one).
You don't want to mess with the relay!!!!!!!!!!!
The console socket does have its own plug (under the console), so you might want to cut its wht/red wire and connect it to pin 11 of connector G of the under-dash fuse/relay box on the passenger's side; there doesn't appear to be anything hooked to that pin, and it does connect to the same fuse. You really ought not to do this if you're not competent with electronics, and if you don't have a copy of the elec. manual. |
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| ardvarkus |
Did you notice a discrepancy in the connector numbering?
On page 22-44 the subharness for the 'console accessory power socket' attaches to connector 'C-951'.
Then on page 22-30, it shows 'C-851' to be the connection to that harness.
(Perhaps a global change in connector numbers that didn't get fully propagated?)
Nothing to add to your post- Only way is to run a wire from an unswitched circuit on either passenger or driver side fuse box to the red/wht wire under the console (probably just under the shift trim to get the easiest connector.)
PITA, in my opinion- not worth the trouble (yet)
Adam |
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| mikedan |
| Does anyone happen to have pics of this procedure if you've done it? I called the local Acura folks to make my 10k check-up/oil change appointment and I asked them about making this mod for me. I was told "I've heard this request before, let me call you back to tell you what it would take." I got a voicemail an hour later - 2.5 hours of labor! It seems quite excessive so if someone has a good guide I'm happy to do it myself and save the $300-ish. |
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| davegood |
| I had mine done at a local stereo store for $80. It took the guy about 30-45 minutes, and it was a super clean job. Search for my other thread on this. |
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| mikedan |
quote:
Originally posted by davegood
Search for my other thread on this.
Found ithere. Thanks.
I yelled a bit today when I picked up my 'X from the shop. I asked for a detailed quote as to why it'd require so much labor. The service manager came out and told me that I was the first person to ever request this service. He said he'd follow up and double-check that initial estimate. I think he was concerned that I was going to call the regional manager and accuse them of gouging - which wasn't on my mind before but now it is.
-Mike |
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| mikedan |
quote:
Originally posted by TheyCallMeBruce
Please explain your position regarding altering the relay function, as it looks like a 10 minute job and I plan to do this before the weekend arrives. thanks.
Bruce, if you do please take photos or at least some good notes. The more folks tell me "this is simple" the more I'd like to do it. I'm handy with wiring and electrical myself so as long as I'm told what to do I should be fine.
-Mike |
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| TheyCallMeBruce |
quote:
Originally posted by mikedan
Bruce, if you do please take photos or at least some good notes. The more folks tell me "this is simple" the more I'd like to do it. I'm handy with wiring and electrical myself so as long as I'm told what to do I should be fine.
-Mike
Oops, need to stop reading when its late, bleary-eyed and buzzed with Coronas. The relay in question does control a number of critical devices. I have a solution, but it may not work for most people. I have a direct battery feed to my aftermarket amps under the driver's seat. I'm going to disconnect the console's socket harness and run a dedicated wire to a fused connection to my amplifier power feed. I'm sorry to say that you'll have to find a more convoluted 12v source at one of the junction boxes. |
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| TheyCallMeBruce |
quote:
Originally posted by mikedan
Bruce, if you do please take photos or at least some good notes. The more folks tell me "this is simple" the more I'd like to do it. I'm handy with wiring and electrical myself so as long as I'm told what to do I should be fine.
-Mike
Did this a few weeks back but couldn't find time to take picts.
Remove chrome shifter trim. Secret weapon in removing tight panels in scratchless manner is the lowly popsicle stick. Some with sharpened edge to get in there, some un-modified for prying. |
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| TheyCallMeBruce |
| Open cup holder and pull straight up. Pry upward on rear of console panel . . . |
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| TheyCallMeBruce |
| . . . disconnect seat heater switches before removing panel. |
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| TheyCallMeBruce |
| This is the connector for the center console accessory socket. Disconnect it. You don't want power feeding into your socket from two different sources. You will be cutting off the original source and providing your own always-on 12 volt positive source point. |
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| TheyCallMeBruce |
I suggest you tap your source jumper into this white/red wire which leads only to the accessory socket. Make sure that whatever always-on source you use, you start your jumper with a fuse as close to the tap source as possible. In other words, buy an inline fuse assembly, and use one end of that wire to tap into your source wire, and use a 15 amp fuse to replicate the original amperage of the acc socket relay fuse you just bypassed.
The black wire is negative ground for the accessory socket. Where to attach this now that you've disconnected the harness connector? |
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| TheyCallMeBruce |
| I used the ground from the seat heater switch only 3 inches away. I didn't splice into the wire, I just popped open the connector, stripped 1/2" of the socket ground, and inserted it into the black ground of the seat heater connector, the when I close the connector, it clamps down on the lead I just inserted. |
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| TheyCallMeBruce |
| To make sure the wire doesn't slip back out from future handling, I use a tiny 3" cable tie and cinch it down tightly to the ground wire of the seat heater connector with a pair of needle nose. Don't cut the excess cable off with snippers or scissors. I have very deep scratches from working in areas where this was done by my own lack of experience. Use an exacto blade or sharp utility knife and shave off the excess cable as close to the cable head as possible to eliminate sharp edges. |
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| TheyCallMeBruce |
| Now where are you gonna tap your 12V always-on from? The clean way is to run a line all the way to the battery. I had run an 8 ga for my amplifiers and connected to that. The simplest thing I can think of is the battery line which feeds the ignition switch circuit. This is a heavy duty mother of a cable and can handle way more than is demanded of it. Make sure your jumper line is equal or thicker than the white/red wire in the center console you are attaching it to, and fused near where you are attaching it to the WHT battery wire behind the steering column. The harness can be identified because there are 5 humongously thick wires leading into the steering column. |
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| TheyCallMeBruce |
| I make use of this modification nightly by charging my cell phone on it when I leave the car and retire into the home. I can't believe I put up without this feature for almost a year! Good luck and feel welcomed to ask questions. I'm sure others have completed something similar, but I haven't been able to locate their posts through any searches yet (other than using the services of a stereo shop).:31: |
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| N_Jay |
quote:
Originally posted by TheyCallMeBruce
. . . . I didn't splice into the wire, I just popped open the connector, stripped 1/2" of the socket ground, and inserted it into the black ground of the seat heater connector, the when I close the connector, it clamps down on the lead I just inserted.
I would recommend againsdt this type of connection.
It is fine for cell phone charging, but higher currents like an AC converter, a spot light, or any of the other wonderfuill 12volt stuff available could easily overheat the connection.
If the MDX is anything like most other cars you do not need to rewire the ground, only the hot.
As for picking up the power at a "Big Monster cable", yet you will have acces to plenty of current, but you will be protected by only a "big monster fuse". Power outlets and the thin wire that feeds them are typically protected at 7.5 to 15 amps for a good reason.
20 or 30 amps going to a short will turn them in to a great way to get a new MDX free (assuming you did not forget to pay your insurance). (That big cable is protected at 60 or 100 amps.
As always, have fun and be safe.
P.S. I don't hav ethe book on the MDX, but the Pilot and CR-V both have a realy to control these outlets. It is very easy to pull the relay and put a jumper in for full time power. |
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| DaleB |
quote:
Originally posted by N_Jay
20 or 30 amps going to a short will turn them in to a great way to get a new MDX free (assuming you did not forget to pay your insurance).
Unless your insurance company assigns an arson investigator? |
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| TheyCallMeBruce |
quote:
Originally posted by N_Jay
I would recommend againsdt this type of connection.
It is fine for cell phone charging, but higher currents like an AC converter, a spot light, or any of the other wonderfuill 12volt stuff available could easily overheat the connection.
If the MDX is anything like most other cars you do not need to rewire the ground, only the hot.
As for picking up the power at a "Big Monster cable", yet you will have acces to plenty of current, but you will be protected by only a "big monster fuse". Power outlets and the thin wire that feeds them are typically protected at 7.5 to 15 amps for a good reason.
20 or 30 amps going to a short will turn them in to a great way to get a new MDX free (assuming you did not forget to pay your insurance). (That big cable is protected at 60 or 100 amps.
As always, have fun and be safe.
P.S. I don't hav ethe book on the MDX, but the Pilot and CR-V both have a realy to control these outlets. It is very easy to pull the relay and put a jumper in for full time power.
1. Overheat the connection? Which connection point do you mean? Using same or thicker gauge wire to reroute power from the main battery/ignition switch cable will overheat? How? The stock acc socket wires are protected by a 15A fuse, just keep the same fuse rating or lower (if power requirements will always be low) and the wires and connection will never overheat. I don't understand your concern. This appears, to me, to be the only proper manner to tap an alternate existing power source.
2. "Need to rewire the ground only." I don't know if you have done much electrical work on late model cars recently, because this is no longer the case. There are several dozen vital functions in which the device ground is routed through and controlled by one of the multi-plex controllers This allows both condition monitoring and centralized device controls with pre-programmed functions. Even non-computer controlled devices are physically switched through ground connections (see headlight combination switch, whereby the low and high beam interaction with the foglights are cut out through the ground connection). I've had to re-ground a number of connections on the MDX already. However, you are right in regard to this one particular ground, it is a direct path. The reason I re-routed the ground was because the acc socket connector was disconnected, so as to avoid redundant power paths (whew, almost got me, I knew there was a logical reason by why I did that). If I didn't disconnect the harness, I would have to permanently splice apart the socket power wire, and I prefer to use a tap connector and maintain the integrity of the harnesses, as much as possible. Thinking about it more, I should have also done this with the ground, instead of splicing it - I guess I did it because it was more convenient and reduced the number of bulky connectors on the harness.
3. "protected by only the big Monster fuse." 60A magnetic breaker (only model of its kind) to be specific. Don't worry. I'm not that dense, just on the thick-skulled side. I have a 10 amp fuse tapped off the breaker. I could use a 15, but I don't need or want that much long term power flow, lest I would switch over to the front or rear console. I intend to use the console socket only for phone charging, but everyone should just use a 15 and forget about it. If I really need to suck power, such as when I run a 1600watt (135 car amps) hair blow dryer on camping trips, I use an entirely different arrangement.
4. "pull the relay and put in a jumper." Yeah, but I don't want my navi display and navi unit running 24/7. That would be really dorky to have people walk by the locked car at night in a parking lot and see the Navi tracking in real time, aside from draining the battery from the display power even after multi-plexing auto-shutdown (as mentioned). Good try - we've discussed that already. The acc socket relay also powers up the Navi unit and display.
Thanks for your interest, but your points are not factually valid. |
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| MDX_Omaha |
quote:
Originally posted by TheyCallMeBruce
I make use of this modification nightly by charging my cell phone on it when I leave the car and retire into the home. I can't believe I put up without this feature for almost a year! Good luck and feel welcomed to ask questions. I'm sure others have completed something similar, but I haven't been able to locate their posts through any searches yet (other than using the services of a stereo shop).:31:
Thanks for the good photo series for this procedure! I'm not sure if I'm going to do it, but at least I learned something. |
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| edepa |
quote:
Originally posted by TheyCallMeBruce
Did this a few weeks back but couldn't find time to take picts.
Remove chrome shifter trim. Secret weapon in removing tight panels in scratchless manner is the lowly popsicle stick. Some with sharpened edge to get in there, some un-modified for prying.
Thanks for an incredibly interesting, informative and clear posting. I am now off to eat some ice cream pops so I can build up a supply of Acura MDX special removal tools. Kidding aside, thanks again!:2: |
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| henry_atwork |
great post, TheyCallMeBruce! :)
one question for all you DIYer out there, are these procedures for taking apart the interior of the car and identifying parts availble from one of those Helms service manual? i've always wanted to learn some of these things but don't know where to start.
-henry |
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