| laborlitigator |
| My father just finished adding a roof and second deck to my home. How long before we can paint/stain the pressure treated wood? |
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| hammermdx |
| I'd wait at least 30 days.....if the rain ever stops in our neck of the woods! |
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| frostyra |
| Paint, never. Transparent stain, 30-60 days. Solid stain (looks like paint but sticks to pressure-treated lumber), 30-60 days. Check with your local Benjamin Moore paint store to make sure. |
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| DaleB |
Just treated the fence around our new home It was kind of a PIA, isn't everything? LOL
I used the advanced version of Thompson's wood preservative. with a light stain.
For a nice deck would use something like Preserva, which appears to be a quality product. Home Depot carries it.
anway, talked my neighbors into doing their side of the fence, lucked out, the rearmost section of the fence faces a model home on the opposing side that is already done.
Got an Olympic deck and fence sprayer at the OSH. I previously bought a cheapie at Ace that John Madden can take and
.....
:3: |
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| renov8r |
About 4-5 years ago I decided to CLEAN & stain my deck. My father-in-law and I worked on it for a total of about NINE days spread over two weekends. We scrubbed the heck out of the deck, used top quality chemicals, the recommended NOZZLE & PRESSURE in a top quality rented power washer and made sure that EVERY part of the deck had totally dried before the staining began. It was a lot work but when we sold the house over a year later it STILL looked great.
Meanwhile my work inspired the neighbor. He hired some KIDS to PAINT his deck, and with 6 months it looked WORSE than if he had just well enough alone. It was a total peeling mess.
I cannot stress enough the value of PROPER PREP on a deck, its flat HORIZONTAL surfaces are THE most exposed outdoor wood!
I strongly recommend following TO THE LETTER the instructions of a manufacturer who SPECIALIZES in DECK stains. One of the best: http://www.superdeck.com/2000spec.htm
Good Luck! |
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| xcel |
Hi Renov8r:
___Thank you for the deck tips. Now that the X is just about finished, the wife says it's time for the deck ... again :( I think I will follow your link’s instruction to the tee and hope for the best as always the case when stain(s) are involved.
___Thanks again and Good Luck.
___Wayne R. Gerdes
___Hunt Club Farms Landscaping Ltd.
___Waynegerdes@earthlink.net |
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| norcalchuck |
I have a 16 year old redwood deck that looks as new. I refinish it every 2-3 years. The time spent is well worth it. About 1200 square feet of decking. Redwood is incredibly expensive, so it is a good investment of time.
I use what I think are the best materials. (I have tried many) Called Superdeck. A California company. They sell nationwide.
http://www.superdeck.com/Default.htm
I use a three part process. Remember--the prep work is very important and will make the difference between a crummy job and a superb job.
First, I use their "Decktergent".
http://www.superdeck.com/1430spec.htm
I apply it with a sprayer, then brush it, then pressure wash down to the clean wood. Then, step two is to use their Deck Brightener, which removes all the tannins which raise to the surface of redwood after cleaning.
http://www.superdeck.com/index14.htm
Then, after all has dried, I apply a good coat of the Superdeck semi-transparent stain, using a good stain brush to work the materials well into the wood. Forget spraying or rolling, pads are ok, but the brush is the best. I use the Heart Redwood color, as it is the darkest and lasts the longest and has a very nice hue.
If you have pressure treated wood, they have a line of stain specifically for that wood.
http://www.superdeck.com/palett20.htm#2000colors |
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| mdxxxx |
| The prior posts contain good advice LL... I'll add one more thing... DO NOT PAINT THE DECK!... Stain it. |
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| jswift2000 |
LL,
Dont paint the deck - the loser who owned the house before us painted the deck and it sucks. Were redoing the deck next year and we'll be staining all the way. |
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| Blackura |
Anybody have Trex or TimberTech or a similar "manufactured wood" product on their deck? Happy with it? Is it worth the extra initial cost long term? Would you make the same choice again?
I currently have pressure treated lumber on a screened-in porch (full roof overhead, screen walls, flight of steps outside the roofed-in portion) but really need to replace it.
Thanks! |
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| laborlitigator |
I'm using the solid stain which is similar to paint but isn't. Only thing is, I was told to wait one year before applying stain or solid stain.
Now, I'm really confused. . . |
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| renov8r |
The milling process leaves wood kind of fuzzy.(this is sometimes called "mill glaze") That fuzziness can make getting a nice finish difficult. Further, pressure treated wood tends to have higher moisture content than traditional "reday to stain" siding clapboard or decking.
The process of weathering will a) lead to the surface fuzziness getting worn down & b) eventually lead to lower internal moisture in the lumber.
For staining, the moisture content is less important than for painting. Milling glaze is usually removed by a the prep/cleaningprocess.
You can wait, but then you just have to work harder at getting the surface dirt off. If you do the correct prep on new lumber a year wait should not be needed. OTOH if the PRESSURE TREATED lumber you bought is very noticebaly green or very noticeably brown it is probably going to be easier to let the sun and/or weather help to FADE to color so that your stain colors "show true"...
quote:
Originally posted by laborlitigator
I'm using the solid stain which is similar to paint but isn't. Only thing is, I was told to wait one year before applying stain or solid stain.
Now, I'm really confused. . .
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| laborlitigator |
| All I know is that I purchased marine pressure treated wood. I paid a little extra. Does that mean that I can stain this thing or what? |
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| norcalchuck |
| I personally don't use pressure treated wood on decks or other surfaces that may come in contact with humans in light of the arsenic compound used in the preservative, in addition to the esthetics. Toxicity of pressure treated woods is definitely an issue and is dealt with in building codes. At least here on the west coast, redwood is the material or choice for decking, although the new synthetics and other materials are starting to get some use. |
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| renov8r |
But, yeah you probably know that...
Anyhow, the other stuff is SAFE --- http://www.beanteam.com/faq2.html
(though redwood sure is much prettier and more costly...)
Stain will stay better on properly prepped lumber (pressure treated or not).
The coverage IS dependant on color and condition. Clean smooth wood is always what you want. |
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| norcalchuck |
quote:
Originally posted by renov8r
But, yeah you probably know that...
Anyhow, the other stuff is SAFE --- http://www.beanteam.com/faq2.html
(though redwood sure is much prettier and more costly...)
Stain will stay better on properly prepped lumber (pressure treated or not).
The coverage IS dependant on color and condition. Clean smooth wood is always what you want.
I still wouldn't use it. All the info I have seen that says no problem, is generally from an industry groups, and they hedge their language by carefully saying that there is no hazard when "properly" used, etc. For example, see the epa website:
http://www.epa.gov/pesticides/facts...umer_safety.htm
Some jurisdictions have apparently banned it for residential use:
http://www.yourlawyer.com/practice/...0Treated%20Wood
http://www.yourlawyer.com/practice/...0Treated%20Wood
Risks to gardens:
http://eesc.orst.edu/agcomwebfile/g...dening/ptw.html
Health risks?:
http://www.weatherbos.com/Environment/ccaarticle.htm
The above are just a few from a google search. The point I make is that "you pays your money and you takes your choice". CCA is a known carcinogen and a poison. I personally would not have CCA treated wood on a deck, especially where children play and where food is prepared. Schoolyard recreation equipment use of CCA treated wood is a very hot area now. There are too many alternatives. The use of CCA treated wood should, in my opinion, be limited to structural purposes where there is no reasonable alternative. |
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| laborlitigator |
| :confused: |
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| jswift2000 |
LL,
I would go to a good paint store (Sherwin Williams, Benjamin Moore, Ect), descrive the situation and ask them how to long you should wait to stain the deck. |
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| laborlitigator |
| You're probably right. . . thing is the Home Depot I went to told me 1 year. I guess I want to hear 30 or 60 days. |
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| evoge |
When I was a super-cautious new father and was drawing up plans for a new wood swing/playset in the backyard, I read the EPA report on treated wood just to be aware of the issues.
Keeping a good coat of stain on treated wood does much to prevent transfer of the chemicals to persons and the ground (ground leaching was found to be usually within only a couple of inches from the wood--don't worry about it contaminating your entire backyard). Painting or solid stain doesn't add much in the amount of protection from contamination. Sensibly, don't eat on the playset and wash up after spending time in contact with the treated wood just as you do when in contact with a lot of other things in this world. Don't burn the wood scraps, either.
There are different end-use-levels for pressure-treated wood and the wood for marine applications might not be appropriate for deck parts (like benches, rails) with which people will make continual contact. Wood intended for play areas and such usually have less chemical treatment.
Drier wood, lightly sanded, absorbs stain MUCH better, and use a good alkyd resin stain containing linseed oil. |
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| renov8r |
has left me confused. When it comes to PLYWOOD I am familar with marine grade being the designation for plywood intended for boats, as it is glued with waterproof material & has no void that would lead to problems when attaching screws to a non-uniformly spaced boat frame. I live in IL, and even the info I could find about pressure treating for marine environments leads me to believe that the amount preservative allowed in decking intended for use on docks, piers et cetera may actually be LESS than the 'regular grade' treated lumber. I guess the various STATE environmental agencies regulate that sort of thing...
I know HDepot claims they employ "pros" but with the way construction is booming no real pro is gonna accept the $8 an hour that HD pays when they can make MUCH more than that DOING instead of selling...
If the "real" paint stores don't have a straight answer, contact the the lumber MILL/manufacturer & the stain manufacturer. I know superdeck & Cabot (two of the biggest deck stain companies) are VERY customer service oriented. |
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| norcalchuck |
Having recently priced the lumber, clearly, heart redwood is a little more than twice the price per lineal foot than chemically treated lumber. My take on it is that if you look at the whole picture--e.g., the value of yyour home, price of the deck job (or your labor putting it in) desireability on re-sale, possible issues with a new buyer, any concern over toxicity and last but not least esthetics, the difference is worth it.
Properly stained heart redwood is beautiful and nice addition to a home. In my opinion, stained pressure treated pine or fir looks, well, 'industrial" and that does not address the toxicity issue. |
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| shootist |
quote:
Originally posted by Blackura
Anybody have Trex or TimberTech or a similar "manufactured wood" product on their deck? Happy with it? Is it worth the extra initial cost long term? Would you make the same choice again?
I currently have pressure treated lumber on a screened-in porch (full roof overhead, screen walls, flight of steps outside the roofed-in portion) but really need to replace it.
Thanks!
Yes- I put in Trex last year when we had a new deck built. Deck is about 20x25, and the trex cost me $770 more than pressure treated. (This includes added cost for color Trex) Used cedar for benches.
Yes, it is worth it. No splinters or cracking, ever. No staining or painting, ever. Weathers to exactly the color I wanted, which is close to our teak furniture. Surface is non-slip. Easy to clean with hose and brush if necessary. Chemically inert.
Environmental upside- uses a lot of wood and plastic scraps. Environment downside- disposal of wood and plastic composite material can't be good. Would support a roaring plastic- fueled fire. |
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| A2MDXer |
quote:
Originally posted by Blackura
Anybody have Trex or TimberTech or a similar "manufactured wood" product on their deck? Happy with it? Is it worth the extra initial cost long term? Would you make the same choice again?
I currently have pressure treated lumber on a screened-in porch (full roof overhead, screen walls, flight of steps outside the roofed-in portion) but really need to replace it.
Thanks!
Almost, I am looking at it for my deck that I will be adding next Spring. I have looked at Trex and also at Eon. It seems everything has pros and cons but Eon appears to be more maintenance-free than most while still having a "wood look". Kind of like plood for your deck. :p Come to think of it, maybe we can get a group buy from Acura.:2: |
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| jswift2000 |
| Plood for the deck? I love it. :19: How as the trex to install? I need to redo out deck next year and I was thinking of it. |
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| Maik |
After a few years of not doing anything to my deck in the way of mainenance, last year I decided to rebuild it myself using ChoiceDek materials purchased from Lowes. The deck is 20x16 and it cost about 30% more than pressure treated lumber would have cost. This material was very easy to work with. One year later, it has weathered to a light grey color, very similar to wood decking. No splinters, not slippery when wet and most important NO effort to maintain.
Overall, I am very happy with the product. |
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| mdxxxx |
quote:
Originally posted by jswift2000
Plood for the deck? I love it. :19: How as the trex to install? I need to redo out deck next year and I was thinking of it.
I haven't heard of it, but it makes sense, especially since Pergo flooring is so prevalent... |
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| shootist |
quote:
Originally posted by jswift2000
Plood for the deck? I love it. :19: How as the trex to install? I need to redo out deck next year and I was thinking of it.
It's heavy to handle, Cuts very clean and as easy as wood. Deck screws go in without pilot holes. Interesting, the Trex mushrooms up and eventually covers the head of the deck screws. Builds pretty much like CCA.
Is not structural, and should span no more than 20 inches (16 inches if diagonal across joists.) (that's with the 2x6 equivlent size- the 5/4 size spans less).
Available in up to 20 ft lengths and several colors. |
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| nightguy |
| If you're looking for a good deck stain, I highly recommend Penofin. I bought the Marine Oil which is about as clear as you can get plus still has 99% UV protection. We just built the deck a couple of months ago and I feel like this is doing a good job of protecting the cedar. Lots of water beading too. For $40/gallon, I would expect nothing less ! |
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