| starb |
I have noticed the distance between factory racks are too narrow, if I put in a Thule Fat Mouth FM1 clamps + 725 snowboard racks, I won't be able to fit the bindings in between the Thule 725. So I have searched this board and found a few solutions:
1. Put in Yakima tracks, so the crossbars are adjustable from front to back.
2. Use Yakima Q-Towers/Clips
3. Move the back factory rack to the last stud on the roof.
Solution 1 is the best, but since I only carry snowboards (no kayak, bike or other huge stuff), I think it's overkill for my needs. Solution 2 is not elegant. Solution 3, the distance between factory racks are now too wide, not good for shorter boards.
So I would like to hear how fellow snowboarders solve this problem? Is there any clever solution besides having to drill holes for new tracks/rail? |
|
|
| TheyCallMeBruce |
quote:
Originally posted by starb
I have noticed the distance between factory racks are too narrow, if I put in a Thule Fat Mouth FM1 clamps + 725 snowboard racks, I won't be able to fit the bindings in between the Thule 725. So I have searched this board and found a few solutions:
1. Put in Yakima tracks, so the crossbars are adjustable from front to back.
2. Use Yakima Q-Towers/Clips
3. Move the back factory rack to the last stud on the roof.
Solution 1 is the best, but since I only carry snowboards (no kayak, bike or other huge stuff), I think it's overkill for my needs. Solution 2 is not elegant. Solution 3, the distance between factory racks are now too wide, not good for shorter boards.
So I would like to hear how fellow snowboarders solve this problem? Is there any clever solution besides having to drill holes for new tracks/rail?
Most major bike-hitch manufacturers have snowboard/ski attachments that connect to their proprietary (same name-brand) hitch rack. The boards are held vertically and sandwiched in giant, soft-rubber clamps. Had a couple of these from Thule and Yakima and they work as advertised but the rear tires kick up a lot of muddy dirt and they just get totally covered and you'll need to rinse them off with a hose or bucket of water after a long drive. Just make sure you have conventional snowboard bindings because I think the smooth Burton bind plates will be insufficient to stop the boards from sliding through the rubber cushions. |
|
|
| olivet51 |
Hi starb,
Ironically, I am planning to purchase the Thule fat mouth clamps as well as the Thule 725 flat tops for my '03 mdx...I have the yakima powderhounds but its unfortunate that it won't fit onto the MDX factory roof rack unless i purchase the q towers which is not an option for me...too bad yakima doesn't make adjustable clamps like Thule does.
I don't have a solution to your problem, most of the boards I put up top have a fairly narrow stance...but if possible, can you give me the measurement in between both racks? Did you have any difficulty installing this system to your MDX? |
|
|
| starb |
TheyCallMeBruce, thanks for your suggestions. Unfortunately, I currently do not have Trailer Hitch installed, so it will cost me a fortune to go that route.
olivet51, I don't have the exact measurement now, but according to the Factory Roof Rack installation PDF, the distance between front and back racks is about 700mm (27.5"). My board is 160cm, and I do have a normal-to-wide stance.
I am gonna try this: Place my left-foot binding in front of the front 725 rack, and thus my right-foot binding will stay in front of the back 725 rack. Since the vehicle moves forward, the board will tend to move backward, which the thule racks will hold it in place. I will probably secure the right-foot binding with a rope to the rear factory bar, in case the board slides forward if I have to do an emergency brake.
It's a shame Acura didn't put a 3-point roof rail or roof tracks in the first place. |
|
|
|
