| jphefner |
Anyone have any experience w/ these?
http://www.perrycraft.com/
They seem to be very similar in idea to the guy that mounted the Expedition rails and stuff. (Very cool btw)
Also, my dx has the factory racks already installed. If I do this mod anybody have tips on what lurks under the original rack? Are there big 'ole holes that I have to fill up? Any hints on how to fill the holes.
Anybody know of a high quality installer dude in Orange County or Los Angeles? I may want to drop the headliner and add nuts to the bolts as opposed to just screwing to the sheetmetal. I just don't have the patience or knowledge to figure out how to r & r the headliner....
Thanks! |
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| TheyCallMeBruce |
quote:
Originally posted by jphefner
Anyone have any experience w/ these?
http://www.perrycraft.com/
They seem to be very similar in idea to the guy that mounted the Expedition rails and stuff. (Very cool btw)
Also, my dx has the factory racks already installed. If I do this mod anybody have tips on what lurks under the original rack? Are there big 'ole holes that I have to fill up? Any hints on how to fill the holes.
Anybody know of a high quality installer dude in Orange County or Los Angeles? I may want to drop the headliner and add nuts to the bolts as opposed to just screwing to the sheetmetal. I just don't have the patience or knowledge to figure out how to r & r the headliner....
Thanks!
I was adamant about using load-nuts to secure the rails as well, until I pulled the headliner and found that only 2 of the 6 or 7 mounting hole locations are exposed on the underside. The majority are obstructed with structural sheet metal, which is okay if you are handy with a cutting torch (blistering the roof paint?) or willing to use 6-8 drilling enlargement steps to open up a 3/4" inch hole to accomodate a socket driver, or you can use a hi-speed cutting tool to to make 3/4" square cutouts, and are prepared to repeat this time consuming process about 12 times. Any moonroof installer can do this sort of work, and will gladly accept the standard hourly labor rate for this custom job. You can see between the obstructions to ensure that you are not drilling into any wiring, but you can't insert any tools in there to restrain or tighten the nuts. Notwithstanding the difficulty of creating access, installing the rails with underside nuts would be the most secure method.
There won't be any big holes when you remove the OEM rack, studs will remain in the rain gutter, requiring you to purchase new full-length, one-piece gutter trims. The best way would be to locate an acuramdx member in your area who would like to purchase your roof racks, then you can also trade your sectioned trim pieces for his or her one-piece trims. |
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| jphefner |
Such an intelligent and thoughtful reply renews my faith in the Internet...
Bruce, you have obviously not had any probs with your rack pulling off. Since I won't be undertaking the cutting and drilling of under the headliner, did you use some adhesive on the rails besides the bolts/screws? What kind? Also, with a depth limiting bit should I be able to drill without dropping the headliner? Also, if I drill in about the same location you did, am I going to miss any wires that might be up there?
Thanks again! |
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| jphefner |
Check out these new permanent racks that Yakima makes:
http://www.yakima.com/home.html
Go Products, Rack Systems, Permanent, Tracks.
Look at the FAQ that contains the installation instructions. They use some very clever expansion rivets.
This is what I'm gonna use. Now if I can just figure out where to drill without dropping the headliner... |
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| perk |
quote:
Originally posted by jphefner
Check out these new permanent racks that Yakima makes:
http://www.yakima.com/home.html
Go Products, Rack Systems, Permanent, Tracks.
Look at the FAQ that contains the installation instructions. They use some very clever expansion rivets.
This is what I'm gonna use. Now if I can just figure out where to drill without dropping the headliner...
This looks like an excellent option, especially if you don't already have the factory installed roof rack. Please post pics of the install and completed solution. Looking at the instructions gives me the urge to remove my factory rack and install this one instead. :11: Luckily I'm not that crazy...yet. |
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| jphefner |
| Removing the factory rack is exactly what I'll be doing... :eek: |
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| mgmdx |
quote:
Originally posted by jphefner
Check out these new permanent racks that Yakima makes...
Actually, Yakima racks utilizing permanent tracks are not new. They have been around for approximately 10 years. I used this type of rack on my previous SUV (Pathfinder) for approximately 7 years, and was the first acuramdx.org member to install these on my MDX more than 2 years ago.
quote:
Originally posted by perk
Please post pics of the install and completed solution. Looking at the instructions gives me the urge to remove my factory rack and install this one instead.
The complete installation instructions including pictures can be found in this Yakima tracks/roof rack thread or via "Yakima Roof Rack" link in my signature.
Several members on this site have successfully installed Yakima tracks to replace nearly useless factory roof rack. If you are looking for a fully adjustable and functional roof rack that will allow you to carry a variety of loads, than this is an excellent option.
Good luck. |
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| TheyCallMeBruce |
quote:
Originally posted by jphefner
Such an intelligent and thoughtful reply renews my faith in the Internet...
Bruce, you have obviously not had any probs with your rack pulling off. Since I won't be undertaking the cutting and drilling of under the headliner, did you use some adhesive on the rails besides the bolts/screws? What kind? Also, with a depth limiting bit should I be able to drill without dropping the headliner? Also, if I drill in about the same location you did, am I going to miss any wires that might be up there?
Thanks again!
I can attest to the strength of the expansion plugs. During Veteran's weekend I went offroading for 14 miles to remote access site along Lake Mohave, and the Kayak rental guy was lazy and only tied the 2 watercrafts to the crossbars. He said it would be alright, even when offroading, and so was the professional that did this day in and day out. I was too lazy to tie in the front and rear tips myself and just trusted in his judgement. On the way back out of the woods (got stuck in deep mud, 14 miles from anywhere, but stuffing lots of broken tree branches under the wheels got me out) the kayaks broke free when the crossbar fittings gave way. Luckily the boats were tough plastic and there was no other damage than having to replace both aero crossbars; the rails held tight. This proves that the rail attachments, even with just the expansion plugs, are stronger than the common OEM plastic crossbar-to-rail adapters. Thule and Yakima crossbar mounts are much sturdier than OEM. If only I had tied the boats to the car bumpers also, and not just let the vendor attach them to only the racks, I would have been okay.
If you are paranoid about drilling into wires under the roof (good to be cautious) you can pull the soft rubber door seal from the headliner and just peel back the headliner with a small flashlight for a peek into the areas of concern. Don't need to remove the entire door seal, but the roof area. Same for the rear hatch, pull the seal on the upper portion of the hatch opening to see the rear area of the under-roof structures. Use a piece of cardboard or carpet to protect the paint when you use the depth-stop rod. There is no adhesive or sealant between the rail and the roof surface, which in an exposed outdoor environment, would deteriorate before long anyway. Be advised that several users have broken their installation tool and have had to ask for or order replacements tool parts (one member broke 2 tools, until the 3rd one finally got the job done). You might want to consider buying an extra tool before you start so as to not have to drive around with only 1/2 of your rack rail attached, and duck-taping the other end down while waiting for the tool to arrive. You can call the parts dept to find if the cost is worth the inconvenience.
Good luck, keep the questions coming; but if you don't go through with the rack install, you are really going to owe us one (several) at the next MDX meet. |
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| mgmdx |
quote:
Originally posted by TheyCallMeBruce
Be advised that several users have broken their installation tool and have had to ask for or order replacements tool parts (one member broke 2 tools, until the 3rd one finally got the job done). You might want to consider buying an extra tool before you start so as to not have to drive around with only 1/2 of your rack rail attached, and duck-taping the other end down while waiting for the tool to arrive.
Bruce,
That would be me. I was the one who went through 2 broken tools before I completed the install. I did drive around with only 1 track attached (no ducktape though) for several days. :roadtrip:
jphefner,
Before you use the tool supplied by Yakima, try to borrow or rent the "professional/commercial grade" tool that's used by places like Sports Rack to perform track installation. I have not actually used it but was told that it is much better and easier to use than the rudimentary tool supplied in the package with the tracks.
As Bruce indicated, feel free to ask any questions. We're here to help each other, and the combined knowledge and experience of the members on this board contains wealth of information. |
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| jphefner |
You guys are awesome! Thanks.
Bruce, I'm definitely gonna do this. And besides, I already owe you a few....
Major bummer about the crossbars too dude. Are you gonna go to Yakima towers? (presuming they fit in your tracks) Or just not go 4-wheelin' with large and heavy objects on your roof? ;)
Mgmdx, thanks for the 'headsup' on the tool breakage issue. Is Sports Rack a brand? So I should find an installer that works with them and get the tool?
Now for anyone out there.... What is your 'armchair' opinion on drilling these things without dropping or even peaking under the headliner? I'm so freakin' lazy about working on my cars these days. Anyone have a rough template or hole pattern idea that will most likely not yield any bogus holes or severed wires?
Again thanks! |
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| perk |
| I read the installation instructions for this device and it's pretty clear that the installation has been "verified" for the MDX. In other words, as long as you don't drill holes more than 1/4" deep and you drill them in the place specified, you should be fine. Be brave and go for it. You can always trade up for an '04 if your roof leaks. :bonk: Good luck! |
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| mgmdx |
quote:
Originally posted by jphefner
Is Sports Rack a brand? So I should find an installer that works with them and get the tool?
jphefner,
Sports Rack is a chain of retail/installation shops that specialize in roof racks and other automotive accessories. They carry lots of Yakima, Thule, and other brands. You may be able to find a retail store location near you on their website via this link: Sports Rack
quote:
Originally posted by jphefner
Now for anyone out there.... What is your 'armchair' opinion on drilling these things without dropping or even peaking under the headliner? ... Anyone have a rough template or hole pattern idea that will most likely not yield any bogus holes or severed wires?
Assuming you will be installing 42" tracks, it is pretty safe to follow my directions in the original thread (see link in my signature) that contains a picture with measurements for placement of the 42" tracks on the MDX roof. The track itself can be used as a template for hole locations. If you plan on using longer tracks, then it may be worth your time to take a quick peek under the edge of the headliner to ensure that there are no obstacles.
Good luck. |
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| jphefner |
OK, gang I'm sorry for stirring the pot on this apparently old topic for this forum but I've solved my dilemna. I went with what mcclendons did and just moved the back rack all the way to the back stud. I just couldn't stand it any more so I took the darn thing apart to have a look. After inspecting the welding on a single stud I concluded it would be totally bueno for my application (surfboards).
Thanks to all for helping out.
Peace |
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