| mgmdx |
:broken:
This probably qualifies for the "stupid thing you have done to your MDX" thread. Although I have not done this in the past 20+ years that I have been doing oil changes on my cars, it was bound to happen sooner or later. I inadvertently stripped the edges off the oil drain plug. :bonk: It is now somewhat rounded and can't be easily removed.
One option that I have is to file the edges until a smaller socket can tightly fit on the plug, and use it to remove the plug. Are there any other relatively simple options that I have for removing the oil drain plug?
Once removed, I can go ahead and complete the oil change and install the new oil drain plug. They run approximately $4 from the dealer.
Any suggestions are appreciated. |
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| m2pc |
Sorry to hear that,
this may help-maybe you could buy the size you need as opposed to the whole set:
http://www.sears.com/sr/javasr/prod...pid=00946338000
also look under nut extractor sets. Don't know how badly your situation is.
Extreme option (I wouldn't recommend this- don't want to leave metal bits anywhere) is to drill out and re-tap. |
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| DaleB |
I believe Sears also carrys a wrench or socket that will 'grab' practically any bolt head and enable you to remove it.
Whatever you do, make sure the threads are nice and clean and not damaged when you finish, no burrs, etc., before installing the new plug. |
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| perk |
| Why not just get a replacement oil drain plug. I doubt they cost over $20 at dealership. |
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| JL_SS |
| The first thing I would try is a simply a decent set of pliers (preferably vice grips) to see if I could get a good enough grip with the jaw teeth to break the torque. |
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| m2pc |
quote:
Originally posted by perk
Why not just get a replacement oil drain plug. I doubt they cost over $20 at dealership.
He probably will, but these suggestions are to remove the "stuck" fella first
:29: |
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| m2pc |
quote:
Originally posted by JL_SS
The first thing I would try is a simply a decent set of pliers (preferably vice grips) to see if I could get a good enough grip with the jaw teeth to break the torque.
NOOOOO! Use any excuse to buy more tools!
Seriously though, I wish I thought of that first - great suggestion 'cause not only is it FREE (I love free stuff), but probably readily accessible. But if that fails, then its a great reason to buy more tools! |
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| DaleB |
quote:
Originally posted by m2pc
NOOOOO! Use any excuse to buy more tools!
Seriously though, I wish I thought of that first - great suggestion 'cause not only is it FREE (I love free stuff), but probably readily accessible. But if that fails, then its a great reason to buy more tools!
Definitely! Even for the tools that just sit in the garage looking nice for when the buddies come over. |
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| perk |
quote:
Originally posted by m2pc
He probably will, but these suggestions are to remove the "stuck" fella first
:29:
Yep. :4: |
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| XStatic |
I replaced my drain plug with a Fram SureDrain, you can pick it up almost anywhere including WalMart.
No more stripped plugs, no more mess when changing oil, and no worry about stripping the oil pan.
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| mgmdx |
quote:
Originally posted by JL_SS
The first thing I would try is a simply a decent set of pliers (preferably vice grips) to see if I could get a good enough grip with the jaw teeth to break the torque.
Good suggestions, everyone. Thanks.
I actually tried a pipe wrench... with no success. Part of the problem is that there isn't much clearance under the car, so it is difficult to get decent leverage.
I guess I can first try to put the front end up on stands to see if additional working room will give me enough leverage to break the plug free with either vice grips or a pipe wrench. If that does not work, I can then try to file the plug to allow smaller socket to fit.
On the other hand, the trip to Sears may be in order. This is as good of an excuse as any to get more tools. :4: Might as well pick up a torque wrench while I'm there. |
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| Emerald01 |
Mgmdx,
What kind of wrench were you using?
(6 point, 12 point, boxed, open ended, crescent, socket, brand)
You might be able to get it off using a different wrench. Perhaps a quality, ( i.e. Snap On, Craftsman...) 8-point socket, which grabs the sides of the nut as opposed to the corners. Although I've never tried it, Metwrench (sp?) says in their commercials, it is good at removing stripped nuts/bolts.
I’d try this first, and then try Vise grips (to minimize any more damage to the drain plug).
What did you do to round off drain plug in the first place? This may prevent other from making the same mistake. BTW- I always do my own oil changes... |
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| DaleB |
quote:
Originally posted by Emerald01
Mgmdx,
What kind of wrench were you using?
(6 point, 12 point, boxed, open ended, crescent, socket, brand)
( i.e. Snap On, Craftsman...) 8-point socket, which grabs the sides of the nut as opposed to the corners.
THAT'S the one I was thinking about, leave it to ol' Emerald01 to come through!
other options:
http://www.sears.com/sr/javasr/prod...UseBVCookie=Yes
http://www.sears.com/sr/javasr/prod...pid=00952166000
http://www.sears.com/sr/javasr/prod...s&vertical=TOOL |
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| Emerald01 |
quote:
( i.e. Snap On, Craftsman...) 8-point socket, which grabs the sides of the nut as opposed to the corners.
Oops, I meant 6 points. Dale, I'm surprised you didn't catch that.
But there are definite differences between wrenches- Good wrenches can make all the difference.
Otherwise, this one that Dale pointed out looks like a good choice if they have the right size in that set. Not sure of the drain plug size off the top of my head.
http://www.sears.com/sr/javasr/prod...s&vertical=TOOL |
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| TheyCallMeBruce |
| 12" long vice grips, with the tension set so that it takes all of your strength in both hands to lock down the handles. This should be enough to crush down on the plug head so hard that it will be elongated by 1 or 2 mm. Don't worry about causing further damage to the plug, its a gonner. Just don't torque out the plug in the wrong direction or you'll also need to replace the oil pan, which I've had to do thanks to a grease monkey at Jiffy Lube, who used an air impact wrench to "gently" tighten the oil plug on my former Explorer. |
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| hondacuraworld |
I've got a HUGE pair of Mac Tools slip joint pliers. If you want to borrow them, let me know and I'll send em to you.
Oil drain plugs are like two bucks. They fit just about every Honda made since Carter was in office. |
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| m2pc |
| Tim, regarding oil plugs? What do you think of those magnetic drain plugs? A little off topic, but was wondering are they worth it or just a waste of money. |
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| hondacuraworld |
No, I actually think they are a worthwhile investment. Any time you can get particulate out of the oil, it's a very good thing.
About two years ago I was supposed to be a licensed Spoon racing distributor, along with another company (joint venture). I ordered 100 Spoon magnetic drain plugs in my initial order, but they never did come :( |
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| m2pc |
Thanks for your opinion.
Do you sell any for the '03 MDX?
I found this product in my search
http://www.superplug.com/home.php
I'll look up the product from Spoon.
Thanks again! |
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| hondacuraworld |
| Nothing I sell, but that product in your link looks pretty good :) |
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| DaleB |
I have not seen it in a while, but a ring of magnets that surrounds the oil filter is another option. Just remember to take it off after removing the filter so you can re-use it.
One company in San Diego even makes a small magnet that drops into the filter. You do not re-use it, you have several replacements with one purchase. |
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| mgmdx |
Thanks to everyone for lots of useful tips. This is yet another reminder of why acuramdx.org is such a great place to hang out. :29:
The problem is now solved. As some of you suggested, I did try various tools including different sockets, pipe wrench, and vise grips. The problem was that the back side of the oil pan is not flat, rather, the drain plug is located on an indented portion of the pan. Even when I was able to grip the stripped bolt with the pipe wrench, there was no room to turn it because the portion of the pan itself, as well as the support frame, was in the way and the limited space under the MDX did not allow me to gain enough leverage to break the bolt loose. Only "socket type" device would have enough space to fit properly.
I stopped at Sears and they pointed me to a bolt-out kit (same as suggested in one of Dale's links above). This is basically a set of sockets with decreasing spiral "flower" shape. The socket slides on the damaged bolt, and when you turn it, the inside edges of the spiral bite into it, allowing relatively easy removal. It worked like a charm.
Since I needed a new drain plug anyway, I decided to install the Fram SureDrain valve to simplify future oil changes. I always wanted to try it, so this was a good opportunity. And as someone else suggested, going to Sears gave me an excuse to buy more tools. :D I picked up a torque wrench while I was there.
Now we're back on the road. :roadtrip:
(pictures below) |
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| mgmdx |
| The damaged drain plug. |
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| mgmdx |
| Bolt-out damaged bolt remover kit. |
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| mgmdx |
| Fram SureDrain valve replaced the original drain plug. |
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| hammermdx |
| Excellent, glad it worked out! |
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| TheWorm |
Glad you got that worked out alright. I just changed the oil yesterday. IIRC the drainplug was 17mm. How'd you strip it? Were you using a close-enough SAE size instead?
I was thinking of getting a SureDrain or a Fumoto valve (same concept) since the space is limited and it's tough to swing the wrench down there. Though I do have some Rhino Ramps that I could use, but then ya can't turn the front wheels to get at the filter easily. |
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| mgmdx |
quote:
Originally posted by TheWorm
... IIRC the drainplug was 17mm. How'd you strip it? Were you using a close-enough SAE size instead?
That's exactly what happened. Instead of actually looking at the socket size, I eye-balled it and picked up an SAE socket that looked like it would fit. It actually did fit but it slipped when I applied some force to it. By the time I realized I was using the wrong size socket, it was too late. The damage has been done and the correct 17mm socket would not grip.
quote:
Originally posted by TheWorm
I was thinking of getting a SureDrain or a Fumoto valve (same concept) since the space is limited and it's tough to swing the wrench down there. Though I do have some Rhino Ramps that I could use, but then ya can't turn the front wheels to get at the filter easily.
SureDrain appears to be a convenient gadget, especially when space is limited. Agree on the ramps. They give you more clearance from the ground but make it more difficult to get to the filter. |
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| XStatic |
quote:
Originally posted by hondacuraworld
Another solution would be to just stick one of these on the outside of your existing drain plug. I just bought some for a speaker project, and these things are deadly strong!
http://www.partsexpress.com/pe/show...ID=125025&DID=7
Try a search on ebay for neodymium and you will find a ton of serious magnets that are pretty cheap, many are dangereously strong! Perhaps I should slap one of these guys onto the oil pan....
Be carefull. Do not put against heavy iron. It would be difficult to separate. Do not allow to pinch your skin! |
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| DaleB |
quote:
Originally posted by XStatic
Try a search on ebay for neodymium and you will find a ton of serious magnets that are pretty cheap, many are dangereously strong! Perhaps I should slap one of these guys onto the oil pan....
Be carefull. Do not put against heavy iron. It would be difficult to separate. Do not allow to pinch your skin!
Once you slap one of those on, you NEVER want to remove it! |
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| m2pc |
| Wow, that strong eh? I would think the oil filter is the best place because that is replaced at intervals. If I were to put it on the oil pan, there would be a buildup on a spot and it never gets removed. |
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| perk |
| Isn't most of the motor made of Aluminum? I guess the cylinder heads might still be cast iron, but I thought the rest of engine is primarily aluminum. If so, magnets aren't going to do much to attract stray AL parts. Anyone know more about this? |
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| DaleB |
quote:
Originally posted by perk
Isn't most of the motor made of Aluminum? I guess the cylinder heads might still be cast iron, but I thought the rest of engine is primarily aluminum. If so, magnets aren't going to do much to attract stray AL parts. Anyone know more about this?
The heads and blocks are of aluminum alloy, but the crankshaft, camshaft, piston rings, piston pins and others, parts are ferrous materials. The magnets are to catch particles off the bearings as they wear, not off the block or cylinder heads. There should be no aluminum particles from those flotaing around. Granted, some bearing materials are comprised of aluminum and copper, and other non-ferrous materials which will not be attracted by the magnets. |
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| DaleB |
quote:
Originally posted by m2pc
Wow, that strong eh? I would think the oil filter is the best place because that is replaced at intervals. If I were to put it on the oil pan, there would be a buildup on a spot and it never gets removed.
I tend to agree, plus the magnets around the oil filter are probably working over a greater area than the drain plug.
It seems the drain plug magnet would work over time. But the filter has a constant new supply of oil all the time the engine is running.
Probably does not hurt to have both. The important thing is not to remove the one on the filter until you change it, and remember to clean off the drain plug, which is usually SOP anyway. |
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