| RDWarrick |
First of all thanks in advance for the help I've received in these forums, really great bunch of MDX owners here!
After reading about what others have done, I decided to try to install a new 4 channel Kenwood. Plan is to power the fronts, and bridge the amp to power the rear sub.
I tapped the bose amp under the console. I ran the head unit outs into the kenwood, and tapped the bose amp's outs to speakers and connect the kenwood to them. See diagram. I am using RCA LO converters.
I did this for the right front to see the improvement... and was I surprised at how crappy it sounded... really awful. Thinking the amp was bad, I exchanged it at BestBuy, to no avail.
My question is... is this correctly connected, or are you supposed to connect the amps inputs to the outputs on the bose amp? Chaining the amps? The signal from the head unit the problem? |
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| RDWarrick |
I got it working.. fronts and sub...
Let me just say W O W, for those wanting to upgrade the standard Bose system, without breaking the bank, here's what I did, and I'd say it was a fantastic improvement... along the lines of B/w TV to Color - or more!
I replaced the door speakers with Alpines 6002 - modest improvement
Then, I added a Kenwood 8401 - 640w 4 channel, powering the two fronts and bridged to the sub. After some adjustments to the Low/High filters and gain... TA-Daa... Amazing improvement!!!
Total cost:
Speakers: ~$200 at Frys (self installed)
Kenwood: $229 at BestBuy (self installed)
2 RCA converters - ~$30 at Best Buy
1 RCA Ground loop - $15 at Best Buy
Amp Kit, misc wiring: ~$80 at Best Buy
I also bought a wirecutter, work light and a couple odds and ends, but I'm not counting that cost ($60) for the install
So for about $550, you can go from blaise stock Bose to a truly awesome system ... the best investment I've ever made in audio!
The amp was not too easy... didn't have a clue how to do it... obviously from above post, but after sleeping on it, I figured it out.
:D |
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| phins2rt |
RDWarrick,
What was the problem and the solution?? |
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| RDWarrick |
What I did wrong...
Upon entering the passenger side console, after removing the carpeted panel, I located and cut into the BOSE amp wire harness.
What I did was cut the BOSE inputs from the head and wired into the Kenwood then took the Bose outs to speaker, cut them and hooked them up to the Kenwood outputs. This is the right side schematic above. Basically, this takes the head units output signal into the Kenwood, which amplifies it, then to the speakers.
Not a good idea.
The signal from the head unit is terrible, and even with the Kenwood, it won't sound good. Sounded like a cheap transistor radio.
Instead, you have to run the head into the Bose amp, which I patched back, then take the Bose Amp outs into the Kenwood's inputs, and then hooked the Kenwood's outputs to the speakers. In essense, daisy chain the amps together
See the attached schematic. You cannot accomplish this obviously without the wiring harness diagram, showing the pinouts, which I had when I started. |
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| phins2rt |
| Thanks. You still used the LOC to the amp, right? Or does the amp have speaker level inputs? |
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| pacpal1 |
As many posters may know, I tried to retain the Bose head unit and ultimately discarded it in favor of an Alpine 9813.
Unlike RD Warwick, I initially got my system to work using the Bose head unit hooked up directly to aftermarket amps and speakers. Ultimately, I was not satisfied with the sound. Since, my amplifiers weren't designed to accept high level inputs, I never tried to run the Bose amp level output into an aftermarket amp. Neverthlesss, Based on my experiences and testing (which lasted several months) I don't believe the Bose head unit lacks any necessary equalization; its simply a cheap off the rack Panasonic unit. If RD Warwick has found that one needs the Bose amp combined with the Bose head unit to get a good signal, what are the implications regarding system design? For me this is a moot point, my entire system has already been replaced with aftermarket components...I'm more curious about his results than anything else.
During the time I was still retaining the Bose head unit and using aftermarket amplifiers and speakers my system didn't sound great, but it didn't sound "crappy". Frankly, I'm surprised RD Warwick's system works in its current configuration unless his Kenwood amp accepts high level inputs (I'd love to hear it if you live in West Los Angeles). Also, can any more technically qualified posters advise if he's in danger of overloading his Kenwood in the event he's not using high level inputs? |
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| RobK |
quote:
Originally posted by RDWarrick
What I did wrong...
What I did was cut the BOSE inputs from the head and wired into the Kenwood then took the Bose outs to speaker, cut them and hooked them up to the Kenwood outputs. This is the right side schematic above. Basically, this takes the head units output signal into the Kenwood, which amplifies it, then to the speakers.
Not a good idea.
The signal from the head unit is terrible, and even with the Kenwood, it won't sound good. Sounded like a cheap transistor radio.
This is strange, because I have a very similar setup (4 channel amp, bridged two to the sub and the other 2 ran my front components). I cut into the wiring harness and used the head unit's output as input to the amp. I had a major improvement in the sound over the stock BOSE. I wonder if you accidentally crossed a +/- wire when doing your splicing.
However, I am still not completely satisfied with my results - the sound is somewhat hollow coming from the front. I believe the problem is with my components (Infinity Kappa) as others on other groups have expressed the same opinion. I may also try adding an equalizer for better control rather than just bass and treble on the head unit. |
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| TheyCallMeBruce |
quote:
Originally posted by RDWarrick
First of all thanks in advance for the help I've received in these forums, really great bunch of MDX owners here!
After reading about what others have done, I decided to try to install a new 4 channel Kenwood. Plan is to power the fronts, and bridge the amp to power the rear sub.
I tapped the bose amp under the console. I ran the head unit outs into the kenwood, and tapped the bose amp's outs to speakers and connect the kenwood to them. See diagram. I am using RCA LO converters.
I did this for the right front to see the improvement... and was I surprised at how crappy it sounded... really awful. Thinking the amp was bad, I exchanged it at BestBuy, to no avail.
My question is... is this correctly connected, or are you supposed to connect the amps inputs to the outputs on the bose amp? Chaining the amps? The signal from the head unit the problem?
Woa, Whoa, Whoa !
Stop!
Ouch that hurts.
LINE OUT CONVERTERS?
Daisy Chain the Bose amp into the Kenwood amp? Noooooooooo . . . .
The Bose headunit is NOT amplified. The purpose of LOCs are to squash or step down power from an amplified headunit to the RCA inputs of an amp, preventing an amplified signal from being re-amplified through an outboard amplifier.
The reason why you had such sucky sound after the installation of the first Kenwood is that you squashed an already low, line level output and so the amplifier had to be cranked to maximum to hear anything at all.
You DID NOT need to replace the amp with a higher powered model. But okay, damage done (I've made much more serious and costly mistakes than that, don't feel bad, its a learning experience). You now have a killer amp. But you are using very dirty signal by amplifying it with the Bose amp, and then dampening the signal with LOCs. Remove your LOCs, bypas the Bose amp again, and you will keep the volume bars to only 3 or 4 for very loud, clear audio-acoustics. Go back to your first install schematic, cutting out the Bose amp, and replace your LOC with RCA to lead adapters (one side RCA, other side stripped and tinned bare wires to splice into output lines between headunit and amp, RadioShack).
As referenced in the last line, PLEASE, do not ever daisy chain amps Its like Michaelangelo painting the ceiling of the Sistine Chapel with a custodial broom. Kicker has some specialty amps that allow you to bridge two amps into one, but this is not sequential amplification.
[modified portion of post, see continuation below for followup]
I'm sorry if I sound like I'm yelling. I'm just so shocked and want to help you out, and prevent others from going through a lot of frustrated effort. Let me know if you have questions, I'm no expert, but I feel I have some modest confidence in this stuff.
Lose the LOCS and the Bose amp. |
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| XStatic |
quote:
Originally posted by TheyCallMeBruce
The reason why you had such sucky sound after the installation of the first Kenwood is that you squashed an already low, line level output and so the amplifier had to be cranked to maximum to hear anything at all.
...
Remove your LOCs, bypas the Bose amp again, and you will keep the volume bars to only 3 or 4 for very loud, clear audio-acoustics. Go back to your first install schematic, cutting out the Bose amp, and replace your LOC with RCA to lead adapters (one side RCA, other side stripped and tinned bare wires to splice into output lines between headunit and amp, RadioShack).
...
Lose the LOCS and the Bose amp.
I thought I was just reading the first post incorrectly, I am glad you stepped up and said something....
Now how the heck is that Bose sub amp working like it is drawn? |
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| csimo |
If RDWarrick has his Bose amp going into Kenwood amp I'd hate to hear the results! I bypassed both Bose amps and used the head unit output as low level inputs into my amp.
Most automotive amps don't do very well with high level input. The Bose amps are very dirty to start with and I'd imagine that the Kenwood won't last long in that scenario.
A good rule of thumb is to never use high level input into an amp. |
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| RDWarrick |
I kinda figured when I posted a question on NFL playoff Sunday I would get delayed results... guess that was all I got right on Sunday. (My team lost, too!)
Thanks to TheyCallMeBruce, and everyone who has seen this post and provided feedback!
I will try your suggestion tonight when I get home... Bypass the Bose Amp, lose the LOCs and use naked RCAs into the Kenwood is something I didn't think of.
My question on this is: Isn't an amplifier only amplifying the signal it gets, dirty or otherwise? In other words, isn't the "dirty"ness of the signal coming out of the Bose Amp the "fault" of the head unit, and not the amp, so that if I run straight into the Kenwood from the head the quality of the signal is no better than that coming out of the BoseAmp? I'm not sure myself.
Anyway, the "daisychain" idea was verified to me by the BestBuy installer as the recommended config... so having never done any kind of car audio in my life before, I went with their "expertise". And given my lack of success with running straight from the head unit into the kenwood wasn't working .... I figured why not! Remember, I was working off of pictures/text posted from another user who had done this with LOCs in his install, too. And, it seems to have worked.
As for the end result I now have, I am, after 3 or 4 days still very happy with the improvement, considering the amount I've spent. With $800-1000 more for a better head unit, I'm sure that incremental cost would also produce another level of dramatic improvement. But I want to keep the "stock"ness of the dash. I have a 200% improved system over stock, subjective as that may sound.
Your comment about not needing to replace the Bose amp is curious to me, as the stock sound was ok (I have a '92 legend with a Bose that is much better than the '02 X), but the amp made it much better, so not sure what you meant there.
You all can't be wrong, and if I've done the install improperly, and risk cooking something, I will definitely reconnect the kenwood tonight and let you all know of my success tomorrow!!
In any event you each have my eternal gratitude for your posts, interest and concern and am grateful for your opinions, suggestions and guidence in getting it right.
... and it didn't seem like yelling, just urgent concern - THANKS!!! |
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| TheyCallMeBruce |
quote:
Originally posted by RDWarrick
Your comment about not needing to replace the Bose amp is curious to me, as the stock sound was ok (I have a '92 legend with a Bose that is much better than the '02 X), but the amp made it much better, so not sure what you meant there.
As much as I write, I always still seem to neglect a single word that changes the whole intent of the message. When I said you didn't need to replace the amp, I meant you didn't need to replace the first Kenwood amp you bought. I actually misread and though you bought a second, more powerful Kenwood amp. I realize, you still have only a single, 4 channel amp. It would've sounded acceptable if you didn't use the LOC converters to kill the signal.
What will you do with all this power?
Most car enthusiasts will tell you that if you can only change a single audio device category, you get the biggest bang for the buck in the speakers. Believe it or not, most award winning sound systems spend more money on component drivers (component speakers) than on amps, headunits, DVD/CD changers, or even motorized LCD monitors. The highest quality systems also do not use dashmounted equalizers. They tune the sound through the built-in cross-overs in dedicated amps, or matching proprietary component speaker crossover devices, or in the worse case scenario, a high-channelled parametric equilizer or very powerful digital signal processor. Nothing will compensate for poor quality speakers. Nothing. Capacitor-banks, equaliziers, large gauge power and double-shielded signal cables, fiber-optic digital links; nada. I've written posts and posts before lamenting the inherent difficiencies and limitations of dual and three-way speakers. Suffice it to say, you won't see them as OEM, at all;, on either economy vehicles, mid-scale cars, super-luxury vehicles, or as entries in autosound competitions. The only place you will see them is when they are installed at the insistence of a car owner.
In regards to the installer at Best Buy;
1. You know why he is at Best Buy and not an independent shop
2. He won't have awards, trophies, and contest photo shots to show you
3. Does he/she look like a shop manager who's been doing audio for 10 or 15 years? I usually see very young guys with an education level of a drop out. Not a researcher obsessed with audio fidelity to win competitions or make a name for himself.
Ask a few independent shops about daisy chaining the amps.
"I have a lousy, weak OEM amp, and I want to daisy chain a high quality amp onto the speaker outputs of the OEM amp. Good idea?" Brace yourself, and don't be offended at their response. Really, there's no such animal. I've heard of cascading power relays (implemented such a system on my last vehicle), but you can't cascade-amplify audio signals and not expect horrendous distortional degradation, loss of signal integrity & free-form transients. All amps produce distortion. The idea is to get the cleanest signal and amplify it once, as much as possible, with as much accuracy as possible. The second amplifier will amplify the distortion created by the first amplifier, and the sum of the distortion will be greater (phenomenally greater) with two sequential amps, than with just one more powerful amp. You don't do this to home stereos for the same reason. Back to speakers - get yourself some good component speakers. Full retail is about $350-600, about 40% less on the 'net. Start w/ just the fronts if you're unsure of the investment.
As John writes, the Bose headunit is manufactured by Panasonic. Do you see any Panasonic headunits in stores? In home theater systems? Yes, the headunit will not be as clean as most brand names in the market today. The Bose amp is just as bad. So you have dirty signal from the Panasonic/Bose head, and made much dirtier through the Bose amp, then finally it gets to quality amplification at the Kenwood amp. Too late, it can only reproduce existing distortion, not remove distortion. Ah, another reason non-touring MDX owners of OEM Alpine systems complain less. Have to go now, wife asking for sex. |
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| TheyCallMeBruce |
I was gonna say something about your second drawing in which you bridged your channels and then drove it into your Bose sub amp. But it hurts too much to even think about it. Please don't do this. Nobody do this. Ooooouuuu this is bad. No more time/energy to explain . . . wife still calling . . .
You wouldn't by any chance be an explosives technician? (couldn't help it, okay she's really mad now, really got to go . . . ) |
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| DaleB |
quote:
Originally posted by TheyCallMeBruce
As John writes, the Bose headunit is manufactured by Panasonic. Do you see any Panasonic headunits in stores? In home theater systems?
http://catalog2.panasonic.com/webap...atGroupId=11085
Interestingly, I have not seen any in stores either. But have not really looked for them either.
Although, it looks like Fry's Electronics in CA is one of their major resellers. |
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| RDWarrick |
No, I'm not an explosives expert ... yet! I do work at a weapons research lab though... but that's another story....
Here's a picture of the business end of the amp, you can see on the right there's speaker level inputs for "tapping" into the head units line out to speakers. I checked and these are rated for no more than 40watts of power input. I didn't use these, I used the line-level pre-amp inputs (the RCAs) next to it. These are used to chain amps, which this Kenwood is designed to do. See link for more info.
http://www.crutchfield.com/S-SHxTsy...20and%20Outputs
I could see you concern if I was using speaker level inputs, that would be bad... but with the pre-amp inputs, I'm not sure there's a problem.
BUT....
You seem to be very concerned about my installed config, and I am very curious if bypassing would make an improvement, so I'm headed out to try it. As for the bridged connection to the sub, could you explain (when you come up for air), the issue with this? I hear you that it's bad, but you should hear this thing, it sounds really pretty good, and I've punished this thing with volume to try and hear it's limits...
Thanks for the clarity on the "you didn't need the amp" question, I took back the Kenwood 8401 and exchanged for another one. So all I have is the one Kenwood, but your drawing is intriguing. |
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| RDWarrick |
| You were right! |
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| renov8r |
In theory an amplifier could just "amplify the signal it gets" put even the most carefully designed, best built audio amps in existence DO degrade the signal. Some degradation is subtle, altering the frequency or slightly changing the time relationship between different frequencies. Other times the amp adds frequncies -- commonly called harmonic distortion.
A much more obvious effect is, however, the addition of noise. Each step of amplification raises the noise floor, so the effect of amplifying a high-level signal is to SERIOUSLY degrade S/N -- sometimes by ORDERS of MAGNITUDE.
Lastly, and most audibly, the dynamic range of amplified signal is always limited by the instaneous reserve of the amplifiers power supply. The loudest signal literally "maxes out" the amps ability to increase the amplitude of the output -- the common name for this is clipping, for it "cuts off the peaks"!
I doubt that a truly refined "front end" or head unit would be a wise investment -- the noise floor is quite high in ANY running vehicle -- even take a LS430 for a test drive, put in a CD and switch off the ignition -- very easy to tell when the motor is off even in that quite, insulated cabin...
I liken the TINY PATHETIC Bose amps(that no doubt have poor fidelity) to the "98 pound weakling" of car audio, once you upgrade to better speakers you want a big powerful Pavarotti shouting into 'em!
quote:
Originally posted by RDWarrick
... Isn't an amplifier only amplifying the signal it gets, dirty or otherwise? In other words, isn't the "dirty"ness of the signal coming out of the Bose Amp the "fault" of the head unit, and not the amp, so that if I run straight into the Kenwood from the head the quality of the signal is no better than that coming out of the BoseAmp? I'm not sure myself.
...
BTW -- Although the Panasonic name is not well known among consumers {no advertsing , DUH!} they REALLY do make some good stuff and are LEADING THE PACK in the development/manufacture of DVD Audio decks for vehicles, including the DTS systems available in the TL... |
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| phins2rt |
TCMB,
Thanks for the insight on LOCs. I am currently running the Bose head unit out into LOCs and then to my line level inputs on the amp. I am in the process of getting rid of the LOC and your remarks make me hopeful that the sound will be even better when I do! I read somewhere that putting LOCs even on low level signals was ok and that it actually helped with noise. Maybe so maybe not, but I am looking forward to getting rid of the LOC and seeing what kind of difference this makes. This is a very helpful thread. |
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| pacpal1 |
Your previous posts seem unclear and I notice that the posted photo of your Kenwood reveals that the amp possesses "speaker level inputs".
Let me pose one of my original questions again: Are you using the speaker level inputs on your Kenwood amp?
I do agree with Bruce that the LOC doesn't seem to have any place in this system. What I'm intrigued about is the (remote) possibility that the Bose amp incorporates some equalization (i.e., could the Panasonic head unit have been manufactured and tuned to custom specs that make necessary to use only inconjunction with a specially tuned Bose amp where the Bose amp imparts some final level of equalization that greatly improves the overall balance of sound). |
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| Emerald01 |
RDWarrick
I too was worried about your initial setup. But you said it was a great improvment so I didn't say anything.
Another note on the 4 channel amp you are using, if you plan to use it in the manner that Bruce recommends, I'd make sure you replace your sub too. Wasn't sure if you did replace your sub or not. And I'm not sure if your amp could handle the low impedance of the Bose sub plus it pretty junk anyway. |
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| XStatic |
quote:
Originally posted by renov8r
In theory an amplifier could just "amplify the signal it gets" put even the most carefully designed, best built audio amps in existence DO degrade the signal. Some degradation is subtle, altering the frequency or slightly changing the time relationship between different frequencies. Other times the amp adds frequncies -- commonly called harmonic distortion.
Amplifiers are designed to operate with specific ranges of impedance both on the input and output stages as well as a specific volatge range. Failure to match what the amplifier was designed for will result in poor performance as the internal feedback loops will not operate properly and the amplifier may do anything including overshoot, clip, ring, etc. |
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| TheyCallMeBruce |
quote:
Originally posted by RDWarrick
No, I'm not an explosives expert ... yet! I do work at a weapons research lab though... but that's another story....
Here's a picture of the business end of the amp, you can see on the right there's speaker level inputs for "tapping" into the head units line out to speakers. I checked and these are rated for no more than 40watts of power input. I didn't use these, I used the line-level pre-amp inputs (the RCAs) next to it. These are used to chain amps, which this Kenwood is designed to do. See link for more info.
http://www.crutchfield.com/S-SHxTsy...20and%20Outputs
I could see you concern if I was using speaker level inputs, that would be bad... but with the pre-amp inputs, I'm not sure there's a problem.
BUT....
You seem to be very concerned about my installed config, and I am very curious if bypassing would make an improvement, so I'm headed out to try it. As for the bridged connection to the sub, could you explain (when you come up for air), the issue with this? I hear you that it's bad, but you should hear this thing, it sounds really pretty good, and I've punished this thing with volume to try and hear it's limits...
Some air and a couple of filtered cigs later . . .
I see the picture more clearly now & understand the confusion.
From your drawing I thought you bridged your ch 3/4 (B: L & R) to the Bose sub amp. I didn't realize you used the AB line-out RCAs from the Kenwood. I made this assumption because you didn't show what you did with ch 3/4 (ChB:L&R). Do you intend to use CH B for the rear door speakers? What were you going to do with them? If you don't use Ch.B for the sub, you won't have amplification for the sub amp, other than the OEM sub amp, which, once you strip the plastic mounting case, is only the size of a family-sized bar of soap.
The industry priority-strategy I have seen is in this order; 1) fronts 2) subs 3)rears for fill-in. This is why I would bridge ch. B to the sub and use the Bose main amp to continue running the rear doors, as rear speakers are the least important in the equation.
If your diagram intended to show line-outs to the Bose sub amp, then the sub should perform exactly the same as a stock system. If you really do like it this way, you need not make any changes. Perhaps after removing the LOC and & bypassing the Bose main amp completely, just finish up your install by connecting rear channels to the Kenwood amp and rear door speakers, and ignore my schematic, it won't apply.
As noted by Emerald01, most people in your position would upgrade the sub to take advantage of the power now available to it (amp with too much power is okay, very clean, just keep the gain way down, whereas subs get killed with underpowered amps putting out radically distorted soundwaves that cant' be produced without destroying the cone). I did'nt mention it earlier because I didn't want to scare you away. You can use it for now this way, no damage done, but I figure you'll eventually want to upgrade it once you get the main speakers dialed in. The sub has a magnet the same size or smaller than your door speakers. For a 10" it should be about 5-8 times bigger, but then again, the OEM sub amp is only the size of a note-card.
Someone will eventually point out the possibility of using Ch.B in Tri-mode, as the Kenwood 8 series has been able to do this since the 801, whereby you can drive both a set of stereo speakers and a sub simultaneously through tri-mode cross-overs (not 3-way crossovers, diff. animal). I don't recommend it as its too hard to tailor the sound and volume of the sub.
Good luck.
PS
I like your exploding MDX. :p |
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| csimo |
| RDWarrick, I hope that's not a real photo of your vehicle! |
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| RDWarrick |
No, no... that's a faked fire burning on the picture of the MDX above, not to worry... I just couldn't resist the gimmic, especially after all the posts.
As for my install, I haven't had time yet to try it without the LOCs, and bypassing the front amp, but will just for giggles to see if there's a difference.
I am planning to replace the sub... it was always the plan, but especially after pulling it out and seeing how inadequate it really is. I would have done the new sub when I installed the amp, but my pocketbook started crying at me, and I wanted to see if the sound was ok with the stock sub. The bass is pretty good now, but for another $80-150 for a new sub, I could see for myself, and take it back if I wasn't happy, I suppose.
I would like to add the rears to the amp, but not sure how. I am using the B channel (bridged) to the sub, so not sure how to get power to the rear doors. To be honest, don't really think its a problem, I can almost rattle the glass out now, and there's not a perception of sound not coming from the back area.
I would also like to add an equalizer somehow to the system, as I hear a small amount of hiss at low/moderate volumes - for now keeping the TREBLE at -1 or -2 takes care of the bulk of it. The alpines with the stock tweeters are very bright, so it's not a serious problem.
I liken audio upgrade to plastic surgery... you get hooked on improvement, and sometimes don't know when to stop (as in a certain MJ), so for my $550 spent, and the fantastic improvement, I will take a paycheck break, and maybe go for an EQ or new sub next month.
I wanted to ask you since I believe you when you say the drivers are the focal points for upgrade improvement, is there a 61/2" speaker for the doors that you would recommend over the Alpines, given what you know about my system now?
And also, is there a good sub that will fit without major surgery?
Thanks, again for your helpfullness, education - I guess that's what these kinds of boards are for, huh? |
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| phins2rt |
quote:
Originally posted by phins2rt
TCMB,
Thanks for the insight on LOCs. I am currently running the Bose head unit out into LOCs and then to my line level inputs on the amp. I am in the process of getting rid of the LOC and your remarks make me hopeful that the sound will be even better when I do! I read somewhere that putting LOCs even on low level signals was ok and that it actually helped with noise. Maybe so maybe not, but I am looking forward to getting rid of the LOC and seeing what kind of difference this makes. This is a very helpful thread.
Woohoooo!!! Success at last. I got rid of the LOC and it is like night and day. That signal must have been really oppressed!! The stereo now sounds like it should!!
I gotta tell you, I was getting pretty frustrated after I installed my amp. ALthough the sound was louder, I still didn't have a whole lot of bass. I really thought the amp would have made more of an impact on performance.
Well, now it does. I can hear the bass in the house with the X in the garage when the volume is only on 2! TheyCallMeBruce was right. I don't need to turn it up past 2 or 3 for very good volume. I will probably drive around most of the time with it on the first bar! I am so happy! This makes my weekend!
I am going to update my original thread so others do not make this same mistake. |
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