| MDteX |
I have a few questions about motor oil. I'm sure I will find some experts here that can provide some useful information.
Who thinks synthetic is better than "natural" motor oil? Do you think the increased cost of the synthetic provides enough benefit to justify the premium? Synthetic is almost double the price at my local oil shop. And which brand of synthetic do you think is best for the MDX? I don't off-road or pull anything--just normal day to day driving.
I'm trying to decide if I want to switch the MDX over to synthetic when it arrives. |
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| xcel |
Hi MDteX:
___I use Mobil1 Synthetic but can only add that its lubrication properties hold up longer then Dino, hold up in higher and lower temperatures, and that it is lighter for the equivalent SAE weight. If you never get into the V-TEC, 0W-20 will work great. If you do, 5W-30 would be a recommendation. Or you could pick up some Amsoil 5W-20. Its base stock is Mobil1 but they must add their own additives? I can’t comment on Redline but some use it and swear by it as well … Amsoil and Redline are even more expensive then Mobil1. Make sure you are getting Mobil1 Synthetic. There are many competing brands that are Group 3 semi-synthetic that don’t cost quite as much and they do not have the same superior properties … that I have read anyway.
___Answers to all your concerns can be found over at Bob is the Oil Guy. I am just passing on limited information that I have read from there myself and I would hate to lead you astray. If you see something that contradicts, please post back to this thread when you get the chance.
___Good Luck
___Wayne R. Gerdes
___Hunt Club Farms Landscaping Ltd.
___Waynegerdes@earthlink.net |
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| frostyra |
quote:
Originally posted by MDteX
I'm trying to decide if I want to switch the MDX over to synthetic when it arrives.
I think you'll want to give it 3-4000 miles on its original oil before changing to synthetic. My understanding is that an engine needs to wear in for the first few thousand miles -- and does it better with regular oil than with synthetic. But then, M-B puts synthetic in from the get-go, so go figure! |
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| MDteX |
quote:
Originally posted by frostyra
I think you'll want to give it 3-4000 miles on its original oil before changing to synthetic. My understanding is that an engine needs to wear in for the first few thousand miles -- and does it better with regular oil than with synthetic. But then, M-B puts synthetic in from the get-go, so go figure!
I wasn't going to switch until the first scheduled oil change. Why waste good oil and money? |
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| xcel |
Hi Frostyra:
___Good Point … I did my Synthetic swap at 7,500 miles as well.
___Good Luck
___Wayne R. Gerdes
___Hunt Club Farms Landscaping Ltd.
___Waynegerdes@earthlink.net |
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| JeffK |
Just my $.02.
I intend and will change my oil and filter, as per the manual, every 7,500 miles with normal (non synthetic) oil and save my money.
There are many, many posts on this subject - probably the same number as which octane gas should you use.
I personally us regular, 87 octane.
I do not believe in "pampering" my car.
The MDX is not a Ferrari - it is basic transportation. Let us not forget this fact.
BTW, my Porsche Boxster comes from the factory with Synthetic. First oil change is at 15,000 miles.
I still believe the main and possible only real advantage of synthetics is the longer intervals between oil changes.
Finally, I believe, but I could be wrong here, that once you switch to synthetics, you must stay with synthetics. (This is the way it is with the lower unit on my 150 HP Evinrude outboard)
JeffK |
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| xcel |
Hi JeffK:
___As far as your oil of choice preference, to each his own. I know full synthetic has properties that Dino oil can never meet. I also know Dino oil costs far less. That being said, I have posted many times where to get Mobil1 oil changes for a price similar to what you will pay for a std. Dino oil change. If you DIY, you have some options like a 6 pack from Sam’s Club (I haven’t seen 0W-20 however :() for < $24.00. The premium over Dino might hurt but again, I do know one oil is better then the other although it may not matter for our uses. Maybe the perceived improvement in gas mileage makes it worth the price to me ;)
___In regards to the switch, you can swap back and forth between full synthetic and regular Dino at any time. The seal issues from years gone by are just that, a problem that has disappeared into the annals of automobile history.
___Good Luck
___Wayne R. Gerdes
___Hunt Club Farms Landscaping Ltd.
___Waynegerdes@earthlink.net |
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| JeffK |
Dear Wayne:
You posted:
In regards to the switch, you can swap back and forth between full synthetic and regular Dino at any time. The seal issues from years gone by are just that, a problem that has disappeared into the annals of automobile history.
Thanks for the info!
Here in Nassau County, LI, Sam's Club are few and far between. When you get there they are crowded - worse than a zoo.
Just got my $24.95 oil change coupon from Rallye Acura, where I purchased my MDX. I will have 15000 mile within the next 3/4 weeks. I will let Rallye do the oil/filter change at that time + VTM.
Nothing else - as balance of work as per the manual, are inspections which I do myself.
Will post the total cost.
JeffK |
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| csli |
| Tried to change oil for my MDX for the first time at 3500 miles this weekend and backed it out because couldn't't knock the oil filter loose. Took it to the dealer this morning for the emission recall. $29.99 is what they charge for the oil change. Why the heck the factory work over tighten the oil filter? |
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| JMT2003 |
During my initial oil change, like csli, I also encountered a stubborn oil filter that forced me to opt for an extreme measure. :3:
I merely pounded a long screwdriver through the distal portion of the filter (area where you would normally use a filter wrench). This offered me just enough leverage to loosen the filter. I also found the drain bolts to be a bear as well.
:) |
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| csli |
I read that you have to put the plug up to 29lb. Does it need to be that accurate?
Thanks a lot! |
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| DaleB |
quote:
Originally posted by csli
I read that you have to put the plug up to 29lb. Does it need to be that accurate?
Thanks a lot!
Probably not if you have had some experience, and know enough not to strip the threads. The biggest advantage of using the torque wrench is consistency.
Make sure the threads at both the pan and plug are clean. |
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| csimo |
I could go on and on about this subject. Everyone wants to know what the best oil is to use, but they overlook a component that is just as important, or in many cases more important. The oil filter.
I've heard of people using Mobil 1 with a Fram oil filter. They'd be much better off using dino and a good oil filter such as those manufactured by Champion Labs.
Back to the oil....
Mobil 1 and certain Amsoil products use API Group IV basestocks. These are truly synthetic oils made from PAO's. Mobil 1 being the premere product in it's class. Beware of Amsoil products as their high end Group IV products are not API Certified. Most manufacturers require that you use oil that is API Certified. Read the Amsoil products carefully and you will see that they have closely approximated the API starburst and say that their procuts "meet or exceed" the API standard listed. The problem being that you are just taking their word for it... the oil was never actually submitted to API for testing to see if it would meet certification requirements. Anyone can put out any product and claim it "meets or exceeds" API standards, but that doesn't mean that it does, or has been tested by any independent lab as such.
Castrol Syntec and Valvoline Synthetic are examples of API Group III basestocks. They claim to be "100% Synthetic" but in fact are based on dino and are not synthetic. Castrol won a lawsuit where the court ruled that Group III lubricants can be called synthetic becuase they are modified from their natural state. It's really nothing but a lie, but a legal one. These products are superior to dino oil, but nowhere near the quality of a Group IV product.
The Consumer Reports test (the only independent test on such a scale that could be called fair) indicated that there was no reason to use anything but a high quality dino oil and there was no need to change it more often than the manufacturer recommendation. Their test was done on NYC Taxis over 4 million miles.
I personally use Mobil 1 and a good oil filter. I change per the manufacturer recommended mileage... not what the dealer says or anyone else. I know my use of Mobil 1 is a waste of money, but I like the idea of that little extra protection it may offer in extreme conditions.
Read some of the published studies on oil filters. You will find which are the best and just how bad it is to use a cheap one. Again my opinion is that you would be better off using the cheapes oil you can find with a good filter than you would be using Mobil 1 and a bad filter. |
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| xcel |
Hi Csimo:
___It is almost as if you just read us a FAQ from Bob is the Oil Guy’s site.
___As for filters, I use the Champion Labs - Walmart purchased SuperTech’s. < $2.00 and they supposedly have the same semi-synthetic media as the Champion Labs built Bosch’s. I have seen the ST7317 using less media in some cases then the Bosch but w/ 7,500 mile changes, I will take the highest SAE Single and Multi-pass test filters, superior Champion Labs built ADBV, and Mobil1 synthetic any day of the week …
___Good Luck
___Wayne R. Gerdes
___Hunt Club Farms Landscaping Ltd.
___Waynegerdes@earthlink.net |
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| csimo |
Never heard of Bob's site before, but it looks interesting. As I've posted previously I was involved in the automotive industry for many years. I have visited the Champion Labs plant in Albion, IL a couple of times. I knew the management there and know they were dedicated to building a superior product to "the other guys".
I'm not a chemist, but I've talked to many in the industry about the oil situation. I know the truth about some "cult" brand lubricants.
I'm glad Bob is saying what I've been preaching for years! Now let's hope that people take those lessons to heart.
On Edit: I went to Bob the oil guy's site, but I can't find any FAQ. I'd like to read what he has to say about it. I did read his gear oil article and it sounded more like an ad for a brand I've never heard of.
Second Edit: I see that Bob is a big fan of moly. We disagree in that respect. I don't believe that moly, PTFE resins, or any other solids belong in motor oil. |
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| JeffK |
One filter and I believe 9 quarts!
Also, it costs $149 to change the oil/filter.
JeffK |
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