| peclem |
| I will soon be replacing the rear brake pads on our 2001 MDX. Does anyone have any tips on DIY brake pad replacement? Do the calipers rotate off the rotor or must they be removed (or can they be kept in place)? |
|
|
| Warzau |
| Most calipers SWING out of the way then you can replace them. Best advice, get a Helms Manual http://www.helminc.com/ (NOTE appears to be down right now) |
|
|
| frostyra |
| I agree with Warzau; anybody who works on their car should have a shop manual (I've had 'em for every car since I bought my first new car, a '63 Studebaker). That being said, the calipers rotate upward out of the way. The manual, btw, has several tips on how to do it right so nothing is damaged. The electrical troubleshooting manual is worth having also if you're capable of doing electrical work on your car. |
|
|
| RobK |
quote: Originally posted by peclem
I will soon be replacing the rear brake pads on our 2001 MDX. Does anyone have any tips on DIY brake pad replacement? Do the calipers rotate off the rotor or must they be removed (or can they be kept in place)?
From the sound of your question, is this the first time you will be attempting your own brake repair?
I ask this because the right way to do a brake job includes much more than just replacing pads. I own a repair shop and we see the results of such attempts weekly. Even though brakes appear to be simple mechanical devices, there is a right way and a wrong way to perform a brake repair. Just like there is a right way and a wrong way to do a "tune-up" on a vehicle. The problem is, if you do the tune-up wrong, you end up with a poorly running (or non-running) engine. But if you do your brakes wrong, you can end up with a vehicle that is unsafe to drive and may cause harm to yourself or others.
If you're not sure what you're doing, I would suggest having a professional do your repair. A professional will do an inspection and will see if there are any problems with your brakes other than the pads that you may not notice.
If you decide to try to do it yourself, a few things to watch for: uneven pad wear, pads that are stuck or binding in the caliper, caliper pistons that are cracked or have ripped boots, cracked brake hoses, leaking calipers, seized caliper slides, etc. Also be very careful when pushing the caliper piston back, as you can crack the piston or break the seal. Always open the bleeder when moving the piston to prevent contamination of the brake system upstream. |
|
|
| Kev-man |
quote: Originally posted by RobK
If you decide to try to do it yourself, a few things to watch for: uneven pad wear, pads that are stuck or binding in the caliper, caliper pistons that are cracked or have ripped boots, cracked brake hoses, leaking calipers, seized caliper slides, etc. Also be very careful when pushing the caliper piston back, as you can crack the piston or break the seal. Always open the bleeder when moving the piston to prevent contamination of the brake system upstream.
By bleeder, do you mean the valve right there at the caliper, or somewhere else in the braking system? (sorry for the ignorance)
And is there a common substance that is OK to use to lube caliper slides? Or do I need to get yet another special lubricant? |
|
|
| RobK |
quote: Originally posted by Kev-man
By bleeder, do you mean the valve right there at the caliper, or somewhere else in the braking system? (sorry for the ignorance)
And is there a common substance that is OK to use to lube caliper slides? Or do I need to get yet another special lubricant?
The bleeder is right on the caliper. By opening it (be careful because these tend to break easily if they are rusted) before pushing the piston pack, the brake fluid comes out of the bleeder instead of back up the brake system, which can lead to contamination.
Use a moly-based lube for caliper slides. We also use a high temp synthetic lube for the back of brake pads to eliminate squeak. |
|
|
| JeffK |
Dear RobK:
Do not frighten the poor guy!
His car is only two years old!. The problems you are describing are one in a million with a low mileage, quality vehicle like an Acura!
BTW, I am surprised he is changing the rear. Most of the braking on the MDX is done with the front pads.
Have they been changed?
Remember to replace the electrical contact sensors in the pads with new ones.
One thing I agree with: You can get pads changed at Costco, etc. for a little bit more than the actual cost of the pads. Hardly pays to do it yourself!
RobK: Again, what I am saying is predicated on a low mileage, late model, quality Acura. Clearly, if the car had 75,000 miles and was 5 years old, everything you point out must be taken into consideration.
JeffK |
|
|
| RobK |
Hi JeffK - we meet again!!
quote: Originally posted by JeffK
Dear RobK:
Do not frighten the poor guy!
His car is only two years old!. The problems you are describing are one in a million with a low mileage, quality vehicle like an Acura!
BTW, I am surprised he is changing the rear. Most of the braking on the MDX is done with the front pads.
This is exactly my point. The fact that he is changing the rear pads may indicate a problem. If one is not educated on what to look for, simply throwing a new set of pads on won't solve much. Yes he has a relatively new vehicle, but that does not mean something can't go wrong!
As you say, when it comes to something as critical as brakes, no matter the mileage of the vehicle, it's best left to an expert. I have just seen too many twisted brake hoses, pads installed backwards, cracked pistons, missing caliper hardware, etc., when a DIY'er comes into the shop for us to "re-fix" his brakes. Plus, most DIY'ers do not have the micrometer necessary to measure rotor thickness, and end up putting new pads on rotors that are way below spec... |
|
|
| DaleB |
| I suspect the dealer probably serviced the front brakes already, not enough information here. And the originator of the thread needs to weigh in again. |
|
|
| need4spd |
I'm siding with RobK. Brakes are too critical to do yourself if you don't know what you're doing or aren't mechanically inclined! I've done tons myself, but just by the feedback he's getting to his posts, it sounds like a neophyte that needs a bit of hands-on apprenticeship before he does his own. Get thee to an expert or experienced friend and then if you feel up to it, DIY next time!
BTW, the synthetic lube works for the calipers as well as the pad backs, so long as you don't use too much and have it ooze into the pads or rotors. You can get a tube from Kragen for about $5. |
|
|
| AMDX |
quote: Does anyone have any tips on DIY brake pad replacement?
Not really a tip, but if you're going to flush the brake fluid too, Speed Bleeders might be helpful if you are doing it alone. |
|
|
| frostyra |
quote: Originally posted by deltajetfixer
If you're talking about Brake Pad Wear Sensors, I don't think his MDX has them.
The MDX has the leaf-spring type "squealers" on one pad at each wheel to signal "time-to-replace." |
|
|
| evoge |
quote: Originally posted by deltajetfixer
The squealers are certainly a less expensive solution. I can't really say which I prefer in the long run.
Squealers might be better for the masses. A dash light is too easy to ignore, but once you start hearing that sound from the brakes, it's like fingernails on chalkboard! |
|
|
| DChan415 |
| The inside rear pads will also wear prematurely if the brake pad isnt lined up with the slots in the caliper piston. |
|
|
| Taiwanese |
| Does Costco do brake job??? |
|
|
| hondacuraworld |
| The most critical part of brake pad replacement is to use Acura recommended MolyKote to lubricate the slide pins on the calipers (factory pads come with a small squeeze packet of this. It's a graphited high-temp grease that keeps the caliper slides moving freely. |
|
|
| DaleB |
quote: Originally posted by Taiwanese
Does Costco do brake job???
As far as I know they don't even do alignments. That's why I go to one shop that does it all including matching their tire prices. |
|
|
| Taiwanese |
quote: Originally posted by DaleB
As far as I know they don't even do alignments. That's why I go to one shop that does it all including matching their tire prices.
That's what I thought. But someone mentioned earlier about Costco doing brake job. I thought I was missing something. |
|
|
|