| crmsnidol |
Here's the deal.
I had a complete system installed at Tweeter last August. Many of the parts I bought on the web including the amps, wiring, speakers (except sub), DVD player and screen. I also bought the hi/lo pass filters for the amp-HU connection from parts express.
After visiting 4 installers and hearing what they could do and how much it would cost, I went with Tweeter who wasn't the lowest but who I had the most confidence in. I should mention that I bought the sub (Boston Acoustics 10.5 LF) from Tweeter.
I dropped my car off last August (after putting all of the components together. I went over the whoel install with the kid doing the work. I was out that day at a lake (it was August remember?) and got a call from installer. He said he was hearing a tremendous buzz through the system and he said it was dur to the cheap filters I provided. He said he tested with his house-brand filters (Peripheral Products?) and the sound was much better but there was still some alternator whine that he blamed on the wires since they were not Monster. I bought his filters.
I got the car back the next day and heard a constant low whine and buzz but took his word that it was the best I could do without spending $150 on new wires. I drove 2 weeks and the left-front speaker went out. Took it back and he fixed claiming it was a loose connection. 3 weeks ago the right front was going out periodically and when it did there was a TREMENDOUS buzz being amped but no sound from the FR. Scheduled for 2 weeks later. New installer (other guy gone after 6 mos) said the problem was the filters and that he wired direct to the amp since the JL has built-in filters. I COULD NOT BELIEVE HOW MUCH BETTER IT SOUNDED! None of the guys wanted to say the previous guy should have done this from the start. Tweeter sells JL Audio products!!! Even the bass sound much better. With the filters, sometimes the bass would hit hard and make a *whack*sound that wasn't a pleasant rumble as a $300 highly rated sub should have! So far so good right?
2 days after the direct wiring job I'm driving into work and BAMMO! No sub. Just goes out in the middle of a song on the radio at relatively low volume. Nothing. I took it back a couple of days later and they find that my sub blew out. This sub can handle 1500 watts, needs 300 minimally and I'm pushing less than 500 watts without the gain turned up. WTF?!? The kid tells me that "these subs are picky with rap and rock music and frequently blow out". He doesn't want to hear anything about a bad wiring job or that they just had my system in the shop and that the sub has been installed less than 6 mos! Luckily it is still under warranty though within 3 weeks of expiring because I bought it last Feb. I picked up a 3 yr extended warranty on it for $30 just-in-case.
So, I'm due back in early next week for the sub replacement under warranty and I'm having a sub remote controller installed. I asked about reimbursement for the removed filters to which he said they were out of warranty. I told him I never needed them because the amps handle that but he wouldn't budge or accept the idea that it was the original install that caused the sub issue I'm now having.
After the fix is in I'm going to the manager for reimbursement or at least to get the sub remote and install for free.
I have enough crap to deal with in work - my daily solace is my drives into and home from work. Now it sounds like I'm listening to a telephone.:mad: |
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| Warzau |
Tweeter install suck big time. I had a them install a RES, there is a thread here from me, Im too lazy to look it up. Anywho. the installer screwed up or didnt do it correctly. ONE he did NOT connect the audio out of the DVD player to the RES monitor for the IR headphones. TWO he picked a craptastic place to place the DVD player, even though I stated if it DOES NOT fit place it under the driver seat. NO he places it on the floor in the rear passenger area. So basically when you get in you stepped on it. Yeah Im sure panasonic would honor a warranty. THREE the guy did not make sure he switched the Alpine CD player to mbus so the blitzsafe would be able to communicate. EVEN though in the manual for the Alpine it said to switch if if you use a m bus cable. And the kicked, the guy installed the RES monitor just to the headliner!!!! No support,even though I asked him to use a support. He stated the headliner was sturdy, sure the RES was being held by some ( dont know the tech temp) screw clips, and just the sunroofs trim piece from falling down. I was so upset and I told him, I even had help from great members on how to fix the alpine problem, he said the next avail schedule was in 2 weeks from the date of the install. I okayed, my wife was mad just like I was, but I just said screw it when I saw the poor wiring. when I fixed the RES IR problem.
My wife said forget it and she wanted me to fix it, not because I choose to have installed by them but she knew I would do it better. And I did do it better. Ran the wiring better, made supports for the RES monitor, placed the DVD player under the driver seat. used heat shrink for the splices, wire loom when it went under the seat, not just. Put my alpine changer in cargo area. Basically did it they way it was supposed to be done in the first place. That was my experience with them fun huh? |
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| R Stevens |
| Do you have the Boston Pro 10.5? Is it in a sealed enclosure? According to my dealer/installer that sub needs to be in a sealed enclosure or it will destroy itself. I have the Boston Pro 10.5 powered by 500 watts in a custom fiberglass enclosure since September 2002 and no problems. |
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| frostyra |
| If you drove your amp into clipping (which makes a crackly sound), that could cause the sub burnout. More speakers are ruined by playing loud with not-enough-power than are ruined with too much power. |
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| crmsnidol |
quote:
Originally posted by R Stevens
Do you have the Boston Pro 10.5? Is it in a sealed enclosure? According to my dealer/installer that sub needs to be in a sealed enclosure or it will destroy itself. I have the Boston Pro 10.5 powered by 500 watts in a custom fiberglass enclosure since September 2002 and no problems.
Yes I do and if you'll recall, I spoke to you about it before purchasing. The sub requires a very tight enclousure which I had built from MDF. |
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| crmsnidol |
quote:
Originally posted by frostyra
If you drove your amp into clipping (which makes a crackly sound), that could cause the sub burnout. More speakers are ruined by playing loud with not-enough-power than are ruined with too much power.
I wish that were the case but both amps were tuned way down. It wasn't a crackly sound at the sub but certain bass sounds weren't a solid pound but more of a knock like the sub didn't know how to handle the sound thrown at it. The sub never sounded better than the 1 day I had it after they re-wired before it blew out. |
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| bbalestier |
:eek:
You've got to be Monitoring really loud.
Crutchfield is one of the best places to start for component specs a little more money, but in the long run worth it.
After that take your knowage and brearh and say I have the power!
As far as Drivers try audiooutfitters.com or subbox.net Great customer service make sure you know what want they have 2 ohm kicker 10" subs great price.
Good luck
:8:
Read my post on 2/29/04 |
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| crmsnidol |
After blowing the SECOND BA 10.5LF Pro (!) the day after it was installed, Tweeter built me a new box and suggested the Eclipse 12" Aluminum series sub and that appears to be working much better for me although I only just had it put in yesterday. I'm scheduled to go back on the 12th to add the remote bass control to the 500/1 and do more final tuning to the sound.
Yes, I play music very loud and the type of music I listen to has very heavy bass. Apparently the BA was not the right choice for my music. The 12 sounds a lot better.
I'll post pics and maybe a movie file showing the excursion of the sub after I've had a chance to play around with the system a little. |
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| bbalestier |
Car Subwoofers: KICKER - S10D-2 - 10" (2ohm) Solo-Baric D-Series Subwoofer
KICKER
Model: S10D-2
Kicker Solo-Barics are historical breakthroughs in the subwoofer industry; a single subwoofer that delievers the performance of a pair of subs in an isobaric enclosure for bass. Solo-Barics pound out some of the biggest bass in the business using an enclosure half the size of conventional subwoofers. It's a lot like the Kicker Competition subs (some of the hardest hitters available), except with more bass punching power and a smaller enclosure. One listen to these subwoofers and you'll know why so many people are calling these subs the best loudspeakers ever constructed.
Size: 10"
Impedance: 2 ohm
Max Amplifier Power: 450 watts
Frequency Response: 24-100 Hz
Mounting Depth: 4 7/8"
Mounting Hole: 9 3/8"
Recommended Enclosure: .66 cu. ft
Audiooutfitters.com
Great Prices.
I know tweeter is probably giving you a hard time, if not take the Boston back get the Kicker.
You won't be disapointed.
Try to blow this up!
Great specs.
:eek:
Another great site is subbox.net
Just know what you want KICKER KICKS BUT:bootyshak
This info cost me alot of money to find out.
I'm also in the DVD audio buisness.
If you like the band = The WHO "THE KIDS ARE ALRIGHT"
I'm on the extra's DVD Disc 2.
In fact the computer I'm sitting at is where I'm posting info.
I'm a personal assistant to one of the top 5.1 mixers in the world.
Got luck this free for you.
KEEP ON CRANKIN!
WHATCH THOSE EARS!
YOU ONLY GET TWO.
Peace. |
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| XStatic |
quote:
Originally posted by frostyra
If you drove your amp into clipping (which makes a crackly sound), that could cause the sub burnout. More speakers are ruined by playing loud with not-enough-power than are ruined with too much power.
It isn't a lack of power that kills drivers, but clipping that pushes a flat DC current into the coils. In other words pushing the Amp too hard with the preamp causing the amp to reach its maximum voltage output for an extended period of time. |
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