| LaidBack |
I'm considering adding this 5-channel Alpine amp to my
04 Touring(no nav) to drive aftermarket speakers and
Polk sub. Many places on the web offer it for around
$300 after shipping. It measures 11-13/16” x 2-3/8” x 16-1/2,
where's the best location in the X for large amps?
http://iweb.alpine-usa.com/pls/admn...y=130&p_main=10 |
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| phins2rt |
Laidback,
I put mine in the rear headrest compartment. You will have longer wire runs, but it does afford great access if you need it. |
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| JMT2003 |
LaidBack,
My attempt to install a kenwood amp to run a polk sub was unsuccessful. I had trouble identifying the correct wires to tap into. I experimented with the line that directly connects to the sub and found that the amp would not power up.
I also have a touring 04.
During your install can you take some detailed step-by-step pictures and post them.
Thanx:) |
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| phins2rt |
JMT2003,
You can check out my install here. It isn't exactly what you are doing but it might help a bit. At least with the remote power wire for the amp. Good luck! |
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| LaidBack |
quote:
Originally posted by phins2rt
Laidback,
I put mine in the rear headrest compartment. You will have longer wire runs, but it does afford great access if you need it.
Thanks for the info Phins2rt :cool:
I suggested that to the installer when were discussing options
and he said there was risk of overheating in that small space
with no airflow. Have you run into any heat problems(clipping,
etc.) with your amp in the headrest compartment? I hope it's
working out for you. I'd really like to put the amp there too.
The Alpine I posted earlier is too big for that space. I did some
surfing and found a Kicker KX700.5 5-channel with a cooling fan
and 10" width that should fit back there. I'm seeing the KX700.5
around on the web in the low $300's after shipping. Have you
heard good things about Kicker? Any suggestions for a quality
5ch amp that will fit in the headrest compatment would be much
appreciated...
http://www.crutchfield.com/S-DSRIVf...asp?i=206KX7005 |
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| LaidBack |
quote:
Originally posted by JMT2003
LaidBack,
My attempt to install a kenwood amp to run a polk sub was unsuccessful....
During your install can you take some detailed step-by-step pictures and post them.
Thanx:)
JMT,
I'm going to have an installer do the surgery. Which Polk sub do
you have? I have the GNX10DVC, I hope there's enough depth
for it in where the Blose sub currently sits... |
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| phins2rt |
JMT,
Your Polk sub should fit no problem. You will just need to have a spacer ring made.
I have a 3 channel amp and have not had any heat problems, etc. Even after 4 hour trips, the amp is just warm. My amp does have a built in fan so I am sure this helps. I also don't "crank it" all that often.
Do a search on 5 channel amp and you should find at least a couple of other recommendations on this. I know at least one member had his installers add some fans to the enclosure. The nice thing about the headrest area is that the back "wall" is not solid. You can cut into it and make some air holes if you need to. |
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| JMT2003 |
LaidBack,
I believe that is the same sub, 4 ohm GNX Polk sub. I pulled it out of my 03 premium mdx prior to trading it. It is already installed with the use of a spacer ring and is connected via a LPF.
phins2rt,
Since pulling off that panel is so easy, do you think you can post some more pictures.
I need to see where exactly does that wire harness plug into.
It’s from the amplifier, right? Well, I’m having trouble identifying it. I appreciate all of your help.
BTW, I left the infinity speakers in the 03, so I had to purchase replacements from circuit city and will install them tomorrow.
Again thanks! |
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| LaidBack |
Phins2rt and JDT,
After doing a little more research I decided to go with the
Precison Power PCX5800. It sports some really strong
specs, and the dimensions are 2.375" H x 10" W x 22.5" L.
That should fit the headrest compartment with breathing
room to spare. I'm going to cut some air holes too just
to be on the safe side.
Thanks for your help! :D :cool:
http://www.discountsjungle.com/precpowpccha5.html |
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| R Stevens |
LaidBack,
I have 2 Alpine MRV-T420 2 channel amps and 1 Alpine MRD-M500 amps in the headrest storage area and haven't had any problems with heat. The highest temperature reading so far on the MRD-500 has been 128 degrees after being on nonstop during daytime in the summer after a three hour trip. |
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| phins2rt |
quote:
Originally posted by JMT2003
phins2rt,
Since pulling off that panel is so easy, do you think you can post some more pictures.
I need to see where exactly does that wire harness plug into.
It’s from the amplifier, right? Well, I’m having trouble identifying it. I appreciate all of your help.
JMT,
The wires I tapped ran from the head unit to the amplifier. The front amp is further back in the center console and is a little tricky to get to. This enhanced pic may help. I didn't want any "interference" from the B(l)ose amps. The remote turn on is the yellow/white wire. |
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| LaidBack |
quote:
Originally posted by R Stevens
LaidBack,
I have 2 Alpine MRV-T420 2 channel amps and 1 Alpine MRD-M500 amps in the headrest storage area and haven't had any problems with heat....
That's really good to hear! :cool:
Did you cut any holes for ventilation? |
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| R Stevens |
quote:
Originally posted by LaidBack
That's really good to hear! :cool:
Did you cut any holes for ventilation?
Yes, the carpet along the front edge (facing the front of the MDX) was cut to expose holes in the framing structure, which exposes the storage area to the empty space (acouple inches high) under the second row seats. This idea was first presented by TheyCallMeBruce in a thread back in 2002.
Also, since the headrests can no longer be stored, the area in which the headrest rods normally go is now available for storage of other electronic equipment. I have the Boston Acoustics Z6 speakers in all four doors. The four crossovers are huge and are stored in that space. You will find the MDX has many places to hide equipment for a stealth install.
Good luck! |
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| JMT2003 |
Thanks phins2rt,
With that addiditonal info about it being further back, I'll give it another shot.
My hands are of the extra large variety.
I'll keep you posted.
Again, many thanks...:) |
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| JMT2003 |
phins2rt,
I seem to have a dilemma. There isn’t any bose front amp in my 2004 touring as illustrated in your pic. The space that should have what you circled is a void, nada!
The harness on the right is there. So what gives?
Has Acura changed locations mid-year?
There is a device that may pass for an amp that is dead center and on the firewall. It’s much larger and has heat sinks. Could this be the more powerful amp that some have eluded to?
If I can get my digicam to communicate with the puter, than I’ll post some pics.
I did install the infinities yesterday and to my surprise, they are much louder than the bose speakers. I had expected a decrease in volume, like with my 03 base model. |
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| phins2rt |
JMT,
Good to hear the speakers made an improvement. I am not sure about the 04 amp placement. If you can find that strand of wires, that should help. One end should be the head unit and the other end should be the front amp (assuming the wiring hasn't changed). Good luck. |
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| Emerald01 |
I too will be in the process of installing a 5 channel amp. Does anybody know what wires are the front left and right, and rear left and right (positive and negative for each) out of the Bose headunit?
I've done a search but could not find any specifics.
BTW- I plan on putting the amp in the storage compartment as well. I'm just dreading running all the wires to the back and back to the front again. |
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| phins2rt |
quote:
Originally posted by Emerald01
I too will be in the process of installing a 5 channel amp. Does anybody know what wires are the front left and right, and rear left and right (positive and negative for each) out of the Bose headunit?
I've done a search but could not find any specifics.
BTW- I plan on putting the amp in the storage compartment as well. I'm just dreading running all the wires to the back and back to the front again.
Emerald01,
Assuming the wiring is the same (03 vs 01), my thread (referenced earlier) has the front outs. I can get you the rear outs later tonight unless someone else has them handy.
One reason I went with a 3 channel amp was to not have to run as many wires. |
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| Emerald01 |
Thanks Phins2rt,
You did answer my question for the fronts before. :) Silly me...
For some reason in my notes, I have the front left listed as blu/grn and gray/blk. I now think these are likely the speaker wires (out of the bose amp). Not sure where I got that info from.
I'd really appreciate the outs for the rear as well. I still want to use my fader to control the rears and/or the sub. Could I find rear wires near the front amp too or can I only find them at the rear amp or in back of the head unit?
TIA |
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| phins2rt |
quote:
Originally posted by Emerald01
Thanks Phins2rt,
You did answer my question for the fronts before. :) Silly me...
For some reason in my notes, I have the front left listed as blu/grn and gray/blk. I now think these are likely the speaker wires (out of the bose amp). Not sure where I got that info from.
I'd really appreciate the outs for the rear as well. I still want to use my fader to control the rears and/or the sub. Could I find rear wires near the front amp too or can I only find them at the rear amp or in back of the head unit?
TIA
Here you go. All four!!
Front right: Yellow(+), Brown(-)
Front Left: White(+), Orange(-)
Rear right: Blue(+), Black(-)
Rear left: Red(+), Green(-)
Good luck and let us know how it goes. |
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| kudo |
Phins2rt,
I will be trying to install my new Amp: US Acoustics 4085 (85W x 4 or 240W x 2) soon, Can I locate the signal wires for the front speakers (new CDT Comp) and tap it to my new amp, while leaving the stock rear speakers to run from the stock amp? (and use channels 3/4 to power my new sub?) When you "tap" the signal wires from the HU (and before the stock amp I assume) do you have to cut the wires or there is so adapters that I can use? |
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| phins2rt |
kudo,
Yes you can do this. That is exactly what I did (with a 3 channel amp). The lines coming from the HU are low level, so there is no need to use a Line Out Converter. I used 2 Xtant HLA converters to go from wire to RCA. I am sure there are a number of different options but those worked for me. The HLAs here kind of show you what I am talking about. Wire on one end and RCA an the other. Just hook each +/- for each side (right, left) to two of these and you should be set.
That should be a great amp.:29: I have heard good things about US Acoustics' amps.
Let me know if you have any other questions. |
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| kudo |
Phins2rt,
so looks like the signal wires are not RCA plugged? (so I must cut them to hook to my new amp?)
So I should cut and tap these wires to the new amp?
Front right: Yellow(+), Brown(-)
Front Left: White(+), Orange(-)
And for these, I should leave them alone:
Rear right: Blue(+), Black(-)
Rear left: Red(+), Green(-)
Can you tell me the signal wire colors for the stock sub?
As far as Line Out Converters, were you using LOC from David Navone? http://www.davidnavone.com (and if not, that might be the problem with your noise issue.)
Still debating about US Acoustics 4065 vs 4085, since I will not be able to hide the entire amp under the driver's seat if I go with the higher power 4085... Any thoughts? |
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| phins2rt |
quote:
Originally posted by kudo
Phins2rt,
so looks like the signal wires are not RCA plugged? (so I must cut them to hook to my new amp?)
So I should cut and tap these wires to the new amp?
Yes.
Front right: Yellow(+), Brown(-)
Front Left: White(+), Orange(-)
And for these, I should leave them alone:
Rear right: Blue(+), Black(-)
Rear left: Red(+), Green(-)
Yes
Can you tell me the signal wire colors for the stock sub?
I don't have the wiring diagrams in front of me, but I can check later. You may just want to Y-adapt the front signal to use as inputs on your rears for the amp. The sub signal is "full range" anyway from the HU and that way your sub would stay with your fronts when you do any fading. Just a thought.
As far as Line Out Converters, were you using LOC from David Navone? http://www.davidnavone.com (and if not, that might be the problem with your noise issue.)
I used a LOC because I thought it would be an easy converter from wire to RCA. I had also heard the LOC can help eliminate 'noise'. It turned out, since the line outs from the HU were already low level, that the LOC was taking the low level signal and making it lower (i.e. lower sound output)! So I got rid of the LOC and used the Xtant HLAs which work much better.
Still debating about US Acoustics 4065 vs 4085, since I will not be able to hide the entire amp under the driver's seat if I go with the higher power 4085... Any thoughts? ]
My amp is only 2X50 for the fronts and sounds very nice. I would always say more power is better but you will have to weigh that with installation convenience.:D
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| pacpal1 |
| There's only one good location in the MDX for aftermarket amps: |
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| timbrwolf9 |
quote:
Originally posted by pacpal1
There's only one good location in the MDX for aftermarket amps:
What about heat? With the cover in place, there's no place for heat dissipation off the amps. Do you have any overheating problems with the amps mounted like that? |
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| pacpal1 |
For the first few weeks I would check to see how hot the amps were running...they barely even got warm...and these are 4 x 100 watts and 2 x 100 watts (bridged for the subwoofer to approx. 380 watts mono). I even have the rubber mat covering the entire rear area. I don't even think about it anymore.
BTW, I've seen some guys install fans...save yourself the trouble and added complication...install your amps and see how they run. Fans might make the install look fancy, but why do it if your amps really aren't running hot. If your amps get real hot, then I'd think about it. |
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| kudo |
| Well, I'm also ready with my audio upgrade project, the only thing missing is the sub.... I can't find any 2 ohm DVC subwoofers that has a mounting depth of less then 5". Well actually I found one (Bazooka RSW1022DVC) but I was hoping something other then Bazooka in the less then $150 range... |
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| phins2rt |
quote:
Originally posted by kudo
Well, I'm also ready with my audio upgrade project, the only thing missing is the sub.... I can't find any 2 ohm DVC subwoofers that has a mounting depth of less then 5". Well actually I found one (Bazooka RSW1022DVC) but I was hoping something other then Bazooka in the less then $150 range...
Kudo,
The sub I have (see 'my page') is free air and fits. I think it was around $80-90 at thezeb.com. Are you looking for a 1 ohm or 2 ohm sub (2 ohm DVC vs 4 ohm DVC). Mine is 4 ohm DVC. |
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| kudo |
Phins2rt,
I'm looking for a 2 ohm DVC (will bridge 2 of my 4 channels from my 4 ohm amp to run the sub.) I actually ordered the CDT CL61A and CL6X from thezeb :) |
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| timbrwolf9 |
quote:
Originally posted by pacpal1
There's only one good location in the MDX for aftermarket amps:
What was the reasoning/logic behind mounting the equipment to a board in the compartment as opposed to mounting them to the compartment bottom?
Thanks. |
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| pacpal1 |
| All the wiring is not as simple as it looks. Unfortunately I don't have any inprogress photos. Think about all the wiring between the splitters, caps and amps. There's a maze of power and ground wiring secured to the rear of the board, all carefully located to ensure that it doesn't impart any low level hum to the signal inputs or speaker wires. Then there's all the speaker and input signal wires. Even though it was heavy, I found it was much easier to install the board and pre-mounted amps as a single unit and then attach the main power, ground, signal input and speaker wiring afterwards. |
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| timbrwolf9 |
quote:
Originally posted by pacpal1
doesn't it?
Yes, but I figured it was for more than just cosmetics and you explained that aspect. Thanks. |
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