| hockeyplayer |
Well I replaced my pollen filter today before I take my MDX in for its 30,000 mile service. I purchased the filter from Tim (www.hondacuraworld.com) and the total time took about 30 minutes. Here are some pictures and tips during my install...
Here is the array of tools that I used during the install. You may have a different tool for the actual cutting of the plastic brace...
8 mm socket set (with handle)
Phillips screwdriver
Box cutter
Side cutters |
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| hockeyplayer |
| Picture of tools I used...yours may vary... |
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| hockeyplayer |
| First you need to remove the 2 black glove box stops. Just pull them out. Be careful when both are out because the damper is the only thing holding the glove box up... |
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| hockeyplayer |
| Next you need to snap the 2 pieces of the damper apart. All you need is a sharp skinny object to push the center it and pull apart. HOLD the glove box at this point because it WILL fall to the floor and break the hinges. My suggestion is to close the glove box after you disconnect the damper. Allow the glove box to completely latch closed and you will not have to worry about it falling while you do the hardest task.....removing the screws... |
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| hockeyplayer |
| Once you have fought with the 2 screws you will be able to unlatch the glovebox and lift it out of the vehicle. This is what it will look like. I will tell you in advance that the screw on the door side is a b%$^. Someone else might have an easier way to get at that screw than me. I ended up unscrewing it with a phillips screwdriver with a longshaft. The screw has both a hex head and a phillips slot in the middle. I read in another post that removing the plastic piece that covers the fusebox is not that difficult so you may want to add that step. It will probably make removing that right screw a little easier. It will just add time to the install. The one screw nearest the center console is easy to remove. |
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| hockeyplayer |
| Now comes the "destructive" step. It broke my heart to do this but I would rather it be me than someone who may be careless and not care as much as me. At this point I removed the 4 screws holding the metal bracket but you can wait until the plastic brace is removed to do these. This screw requires the 8 mm socket. |
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| hockeyplayer |
| and the other screw. This one requires a phillips head screwdriver... |
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| hockeyplayer |
| Now comes the part that I hated. You need to remove the plastic brace by cutting:( it away and discarding it. I used both a box cutter and side cutters for this step.. |
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| hockeyplayer |
| after both sides are cut just pull the plastic piece out. |
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| hockeyplayer |
| Next you need to remove the screws holding the brace(if you have not already) and wiggle the metal brace out of the way. Take your time here because you could easily break away some plastic now because the brace is gone. Trust me you won't but just take your time... |
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| hockeyplayer |
| Next you need to unlatch the cover for the pollen filter. It has a latch on the top and the bottom... |
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| hockeyplayer |
| Here is the filter at 32,000 miles. Heck I even had a wasp stuck to the filter.... |
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| hockeyplayer |
| Here is a picture of the new filter going in. Note how white they are when they are clean. Be sure to place the filter in properly with regards to air flow. There is an arrow on both the filter and on the housing for the filter... |
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| hockeyplayer |
Hope this helps out a little. It will save some money on your 30,000 mile check up and the next time you do it the hard part will already be done.:) Here is a post that has the actual service manual pages that were scanned. This is what I used.
Link to thread with scanned pictures from the service manual |
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| evoge |
| Awesome, Hock!! A worthy addition to the "Acuramdx.org Body of Knowledge". (I'm almost inspired to install that brand-new microfilter I've had for a month now.:rolleyes: ) |
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| EXCALIBUR |
hockeyplayer,
Great blow-by-blow pics. You have certainly taken the mystery out of changing the pollen filter. Most DIY'ers should be able to follow your instructions and pics.:29: |
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| hammermdx |
| Thanks for the detailed step by step instructions with the great pics! |
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| Pauls MDX |
| Great demo with pic's. |
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| Markedoc |
| Stupid question, but why would Acura position a replacement filter in such a ridiculous spot and require that you cut apart the interior of your car for replacement?? |
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| evoge |
quote:
Originally posted by Markedoc
Stupid question, but why would Acura position a replacement filter in such a ridiculous spot and require that you cut apart the interior of your car for replacement??
If this is not a rhetorical question, we need those engineers out there to 'fess up: the answer is "poor design and/or integration." Every car has one (or two, or three) of these "features".
Edit: Because the Odyssey also has a cabin filter, I wonder if there was an integration issue when the X dash and HVAC systems were being designed? |
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| Markedoc |
FYI - my dealer just quoted me $130-$140 (plus tax) to replace this filter which Tim sells for $26.83 ... that's $100-$110 for 30 mins labor. Hmmm .... $200-$220 an hour for my time? I think I will do it myself.
Unreal. |
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| Markedoc |
OK - ONE last comment on the pollen filter ... I can't believe this part costs more than $5 or $10!!!! There's nothing to the damn thing!!
Just commenting - not complaining - at least I'm not getting soaked by the stealer! |
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| Markedoc |
OK - just finished the filter. I don't know that it even took 30 minutes - pretty easy. Just to emphasize a couple of things:
1) I definately found it easier to remove the fuse box covering. One easy button, ease the piece out, and that's it. Makes that door-side glove box screw MUCH easier to get to, and of course much easier to re-install.
2) The screws holding the glove box are located BENEATH the glove box and like HockeyPlayer mentioned, take them out with the glovebox door closed.
Thanks again guys! |
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| hockeyplayer |
| :29: :29: I figured that it was relatively easy to remove the fuse box but now you confirmed it. Glad I could help out a little.... |
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| cmjcrj700pilot |
| Thanks for the post. I just completed my filter replacemet via your post on Saturday. Went without a hitch. |
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| Oh_My_Baby |
Thank you Hockeyplayer for your thorough instructions.
I put the information together in one Microsoft Document "How to replace pollen filter" for reference. Of course credit to hockeyplayer. I can't attach the document on this forum, so if anyone is interested please let me know. |
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| Oh_My_Baby |
Thank you Hockeyplayer for your thorough instructions.
I put the information together in one Microsoft Document "How to replace pollen filter" for reference. Of course credit to hockeyplayer. I can't attach the document on this forum, so if anyone is interested please let me know. |
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| MARFONG |
Yes, I'm interested in the Microsoft Document. Do send it by email? I'm planning to change my pollen filter soon. Just hit 30k miles.
Thanks |
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| edepa |
quote:
Originally posted by Oh_My_Baby
Thank you Hockeyplayer for your thorough instructions.
I put the information together in one Microsoft Document "How to replace pollen filter" for reference. Of course credit to hockeyplayer. I can't attach the document on this forum, so if anyone is interested please let me know.
Thanks on this offer. If you could please email to me at edepa@aol.com.
One more question, maybe a silly one but, on the glove compartment "stops": what direction do you pull on to get them out? I hate forcing things the wrong way and running into a problem that could be answered with just a bit of information overkill. Thanks in advance to any responder who can clarify this for me. |
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| Markedoc |
| The "stops" should pull straight out. It shouldn't be too hard to pull these out - if you are worried about breaking them, you are pulling too hard. Just take a little pressure off of the stops by pushing the glovebox in just a hair while you are doing this. |
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| SLagrec1 |
Newbie here, just wanted to say thanks for spending the time to document this.
I was stumped at how to remove the dust/pollen filter. Over the years I've tuned up more than a few cars, changed a lot of oil and done dozens of "mods" to several of my favorite vehicles. That said, never have I had to cut away to do a std maintencance item.
On a whim I searced for 'Acura MDX forum' and found this post.
Thanks again! |
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| edepa |
quote:
Originally posted by Markedoc
The "stops" should pull straight out. It shouldn't be too hard to pull these out - if you are worried about breaking them, you are pulling too hard. Just take a little pressure off of the stops by pushing the glovebox in just a hair while you are doing this.
Thanks for the guidance and thanks to whoever it was that also sent me the word doc file on the pollen filter changeover. The great support from fellow X'ers reminds me why I keep checking back and enjoying this forum!:D |
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| Taiwanese |
Honda has the same STUPID / BAD design on Odyssey and Accord.
I can understand every car has a bad design here and there. But this should not happen to Honda. At least not for this.
Maybe waterpump replacement is OK because most owners would not change their own water pump.
They should design like this
remove the glove box stop ( so you can open lower)
remove filter cover
replace horizontal filter (not vertical filter location)
What is HONDA thinking?
:confused: |
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| weth |
| So what happens to the plastic brace that is cut away - is it replaced, or just gone after you change the filter? If it is no longer there, what adverse effect does it have - or why was it there in the first place? |
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| Markedoc |
It is not replaced - it is thrown away. I wouldn't describe it as a brace - it's more like a non-essential piece of a large plastic form that's there just to make the initial assembly process easier. It even has some vertical slots at the point where you make the cuts, almost like they are there to make the removal process easier. Reminded me of a throw-away piece that you would have left over after putting a plastic toy together. The "brace" if you want to call it that would seem to be the metal bar that's directly behind the plastic piece you toss away.
I think once you get in there are see what's going on, you'll be OK with this procedure. Also, it comes down to whether you want to pay the $stealer $100+ (again, mine quoted $135 or so) to do it or DIY for $25 plus 30 mins of your time. |
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| jj_mdx |
I also got a quote from the local dealer for about $134 for pollen filter replacement... like i'm gonna pay that much for it... :rolleyes:
just placed an order at Tim's place together with the engine airfilter... $46 total... |
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| DaleB |
quote:
Originally posted by weth
So what happens to the plastic brace that is cut away - is it replaced, or just gone after you change the filter? If it is no longer there, what adverse effect does it have - or why was it there in the first place?
1. No effect at all
2. We don't know why it is/was there.
Procedure is by the factory manual. |
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| DaleB |
quote:
Originally posted by jj_mdx
I also got a quote from the local dealer for about $134 for pollen filter replacement... like i'm gonna pay that much for it... :rolleyes:
just placed an order at Tim's place together with the engine airfilter... $46 total...
Ridiculous price. Although you will sweat out about half of it in frustration. It's not a difficult job, but not exactly a pleasant one either. |
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| Markedoc |
Stupid question, but what's hard about the procedure? Socket set, screw driver and a box cutter ... and maybe 30 mins tops.
Maybe I got lucky - i can screw these things up pretty easily, but this one was pretty straightforward. |
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| DaleB |
quote:
Originally posted by Markedoc
Stupid question, but what's hard about the procedure? Socket set, screw driver and a box cutter ... and maybe 30 mins tops.
Maybe I got lucky - i can screw these things up pretty easily, but this one was pretty straightforward.
May depend on your age and/or flexibility. I can remember when it was no big deal to squat and wash my wheels either. Yup, at least I can still remember it. :D |
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| edepa |
quote:
Originally posted by Markedoc
Stupid question, but what's hard about the procedure? Socket set, screw driver and a box cutter ... and maybe 30 mins tops.
Maybe I got lucky - i can screw these things up pretty easily, but this one was pretty straightforward.
I agree with Markedoc. I took my time and I'm not sure how long it was, but it was easier than I imagined. One note on tools, I also used an offset 8mm box-end wrench to start loosening the hinge screw nearer to the door side of the glovebox. It also came in handy tightening that same screw, although I used a socket driver on an extension for the most part to get at that one.
I did have one small complication. The "damper" center piece that has to be pushed in to separate the two halves of the damper didn't spring back out, but I didn't notice that it hadn't. It took me a while trying to reconnect the damper. I finally took the screw out holding the part attached to the glove box, reassembled the damper after noticing the center wasn't popped back out and fixing that, and then putting the screw back in.
One other question I have though. I took good notice, I thought, of the old filter coming out, so I'd know how to put back the new one. Seemed odd though as the old filter was dirty on the "outlet" side for airflow. I checked on the housing and the new filter and aligned the airflow arrows, so I know the new one is in correctly. Is that normal for the "outlet" side of the filter to be the dirtier one? Didn't make sense, and got me wondering if Acura installed it backwards at the factory? Any thoughts appreciated.:confused: |
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| DaleB |
Seriously, I joked around about this being a bothersome task. The real problem is that it is MORE difficult than it should be!
You should be able to unsnap a retainer at the bottom of the A/C plenum, and drop the filter down. |
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| BaldEagle1 |
| Getting close to 30000 miles and will need to replace the pollen filter. Thanks to Hockeyplayer and his excellent photos/instructions the task will be a snap.:29: |
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| presten |
| thanks for the info on replacing the filter. You are right about the right hand screw...I found that removing the fuse cover housing was the easiest way for me to do it. Simply pop out the push on disk on the front of the cover, remove the plastic sill cover and slide the fuse cover back. Once this is removed the right hinge screw is easy. After cutting the brace out all I can say is the engineer who designed this mess should be drawn and quartered and the cut out brace inserted in him where the sun won't shine!!! What a stupid system that is. It is so unusual to see such a complete design goof on any modern car...I can't even imagine a management team letting such a thing get into production. It almost falls into the catagory of some car that I remember reading about that you had to remove the left fender to change the back spark plug on the left side. Oh well, now that I have done it once it will be easy the next time. By the way, the local NAPA store has the filter available for about $22...I don't know what Acura wants for it but probably a lot more. |
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| MoviesLA |
If anybody has the Microsoft Document "How to replace the pollen filter", please send it to me at: stan.brady@kodak.com
FYI, I actually have a 2003 Honda Pilot; however this forum (acuramdx.org) does the best job describing how to accomplish the whole job. I'm convinced the challenge is identical for both cars.
Thank you |
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| TGO |
| Just to play the devil's advocate on the plastic brace and beating up on poor engineers (I'm not one - not that smart). The brace might have a function in the production of the vehicle adding stability, strength, etc. during install, of the assembly it is part of, on the production run. Once that part or assembly is in and secured the brace becomes a useless. Could Acura/Honda line workers then take it out, probably. Honda/Acura just didn't think to go that far (best case) or decided hey its one more assembly step we don't have to do and pay for (worst case). |
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| BaldEagle |
Just changed mine for the first time. Thanks to Hockeyplayers excellent instructions and photos it was a snap.
I did find that using a socket (8MM) on the two screws under the glove box was better than a Phillips screwdriver and also removing the fuse cover made it easier.
Thanks again Hockeyplayer. |
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| hockeyplayer |
Thank you for the kind word Baldeagle :o I am pleased to hear that my post has helped members. This forum has SOOOOO much useful information and documented experiences. The friendly people and the knowledge obtained is what has kept me checking this site out every chance I can....
BTW..I read through this thread and noticed a few members(Markedoc....) asking why the big fuss?? Well, there really is nothing hard about the procedure and I wanted to show some members who may not be as "mechanically inclined" and some who are flat out afraid to tackle any maintenance on their own that it can be done by yourself and that almost every person here has the tools at home to do it. Personal gratification and saving a little money was the purpose of the thread. |
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| Cheetos |
quote:
Well, there really is nothing hard about the procedure and I wanted to show some members who may not be as "mechanically inclined" and some who are flat out afraid to tackle any maintenance on their own that it can be done by yourself and that almost every person here has the tools at home to do it. Personal gratification and saving a little money was the purpose of the thread.
Totally agree with Hockeypayer. Here's how the filter looks after 36k. |
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| BaldEagle |
quote:
Originally posted by hockeyplayer
....... Personal gratification and saving a little money was the purpose of the thread.
Speaking of saving a little money has anyone found an after market source for the filters, pollen and engine? Seems like I paid about $30 for the pollen filter and $18 for the air filter. Someone must be making these by now at a more reasonable price. |
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| Crem de la SUV |
There is no need to remove the difficult screw. Unhook the top of the glovebox and lower it carefully. Pay attention that it doesn't bind at the bottom against the filter box. Cut the plastic and remove the metal brace while the glovebox is still attached. Then, only remove the driver's side screw which secures the glovebox. Gently swing the loosened side of the box out and you will have access to the filter.
:2: |
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| edepa |
quote:
Originally posted by BaldEagle
Speaking of saving a little money has anyone found an after market source for the filters, pollen and engine? Seems like I paid about $30 for the pollen filter and $18 for the air filter. Someone must be making these by now at a more reasonable price.
i'm not sure, but a good point. I picked up an engine and pollen filter for my son's RSX through some guy on ebay. I'll check with him and see if he carries filters for the MDX and post here when I find out.
email response to me is as follows:
well thanks for thinking of me,
oil filter bosch:$4.65
air filter genuine: $18.99
ACC Cabin filter: $16.50 Bosch
Actually I am the largest supplier of aftermarket foreign carparts in the US. I will only supply quality stuff, some is actually genuine o.e.m. most is the supplier to the manufacturer, ATE, Brembo, Bosch, Zimmerman, etc. Nearly all of the websites suppling parts go thru my warehouses. (The Parts Bin for instance) So, if u see a part with price posted I usually can supply it for less.
Again, thanks for the interest
jim
His seller name on ebay is 8082dupont, and his email address if you want to contact him directly is 8082dupont@cox.net.
I know the RSX parts he sent me were right on, and packed well, shipped promptly. I'll probably buy from him for the mdx next time the filters are due. |
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| zafer |
| I'm looking at my maintenance schedule and it says "replace air cleaner element" along with replace dust and pollen filter. What is this?? |
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| Warzau |
| Maybe it mean air filter for the engine as well as the pollen filter for the interior, my dealer recommened me to do this at 30K maintance. I passed on it got it from Tim and saved a bundle. |
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| DaleB |
quote:
Originally posted by zafer
I'm looking at my maintenance schedule and it says "replace air cleaner element" along with replace dust and pollen filter. What is this??
Not a bad idea if you are not into lifetime engine air filters. If only replacing the cabin filter was not such a PIA. It should not go 30K miles, I would say 20K at the most especially if you can get a cheaper replacement.
I don't think the 'green' stock engine air filter should go past 15K for that matter. |
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| 01MBMDX76 |
hockeyplayer,
I just replaced my cabin filter thanks to your diy and pixs. I am one of those not "mechanically inclined" unless someone shows me firsthand. It took about 30 mins the parts from Tim at HAW. A big thank you. |
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| Tuan |
Thanks hockeyplayer,
Your pix help tremendously. Just replaced mine. I did take off the fusebox. I made one mistake. I screwed the 2 screws that support the glovebox hinges so tight that the threads are now worn out. They still support the glovebox, but they may fall out one of these days. As a solution, I use teflon tape and wrap around each screw a few times. |
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| phins2rt |
hockeyplayer,
Great how-to!:29: I did as Crem de la SUV mentioned and only removed the driver's side screw underneath the box.
This was a little more difficult than changing my TL's filter. IIRC, I didn't have to remove the glove box at all for that one.
A $100 saved is $100 earned!! Thanks again. |
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| Mando |
I replaced the pollen filter this weekend myself....pretty darn easy! Thanks to all the contributers!!
One interesting thing I encountered. I bought my X certified and it just clicked over to 60k miles. When I went to go replace the pollen filter, I noticed the plastic "bar" was still intact. I thought for sure it wouldn't be there, since at 30k it should be replaced. Either the original owner declined to replace it, or the dealer charged him and never replaced it.
Either way, the filter was pretty darn nasty. Now, with the new filter in there, there is a BIG difference in "air quality" inside the cabin.
Thx again!!! |
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| JimH |
I replaced my pollen filter at 27,000 miles today. Thanks to Hockeyplayer for the description/pics. on removal. I followed
Crem de la SUV's advice and only removed the drivers side screw on the bottom, and left the passenger side screw on. That worked well as explained. The pollen filter was plenty dirty. I was also quoted a price for this filter from my nearest Acura dealer for $ 44. I then purchased one from Tim instead for $ 28.41. |
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| 01MBMDX76 |
| My last post thanked hockeyplayer for the great how to. Should have mentioned when I did change the pollen filter the brace you have to remove was removed for the first time at 80K. I bought this X with 76K thinking everything was done prior. You know replacement of filter every 30K miles.:eek: :3: . Needless to say I was not thrilled, yet looking at the filter it wasn't as dirty. Popped in the clean new filter and saved $120 plus tax from the stealer thanks to hockeyplayer's how to. All's well that ends well and the air in the cabin is cleaner:4: I've aslo got the how to change oil, atf and the 1x,2x,3x transmission fluid change and VTM4....savings from dealer could mean HIDs as new accessory for my MDX :2: Cheers. |
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| lester123 |
quote:
Originally posted by Markedoc
FYI - my dealer just quoted me $130-$140 (plus tax) to replace this filter which Tim sells for $26.83 ... that's $100-$110 for 30 mins labor. Hmmm .... $200-$220 an hour for my time? I think I will do it myself.
Unreal.
In about 7k miles, I think I will change the cabin filter if I can do it myself. It was done at 60k miles by the dealer.
Does anyone know of any delailed instructions available to DIYers? |
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| nightguy |
quote:
Originally posted by lester123
In about 7k miles, I think I will change the cabin filter if I can do it myself. It was done at 60k miles by the dealer.
Does anyone know of any delailed instructions available to DIYers?
Page 1 of this thread. Hockeyplayer did an excellent play by play with photos. I accidentally got one shipped to me so now I have no choice but to try this. Thanks HAW !
Scanned photos of the service manual here. Hockeyplayer's photos are better IMO. |
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| afs12065 |
| Does anyone know if it is still required to cut the piece of "unnecessary" plastic out of the dash on the 2005s or did they fix that design "feature?" :) |
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| cycler15 |
Changed the pollen filter today. Took about 45 minutes. I still can't believe the design of the X makes it so difficult to replace this filter. I actually only cut the left side of the plastic brace and was able to bend it out a bit to replace the filter. I also only removed the left nut holding the glove box in place.
I wasn't able to get the damper back into place when putting the glove box back. It seems that the clip won't snap back into place. Anyone have the same problem? |
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| cycler15 |
| Because I couldn't click the damper back in place, now it's rattling when I drive. How were others able to connect the damper back? |
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| nonqual |
Your instructions and photos really made the task a snap.
For others that try:
-I found a 8mm combo wrench (with 12 pt box) useful with the screw on the lower right.
-I cut just the frame on the right with a box cutter and was able to bend everything out of the way to access easily the filter slot.
-O'reilly's stocks the filter in Houston; it was $23 plus tax versus nearly $50 at the dealer.
Thanks again for taking the time to help the rest of us. |
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| jowardb |
quote:
Originally posted by Oh_My_Baby
Thank you Hockeyplayer for your thorough instructions.
I put the information together in one Microsoft Document "How to replace pollen filter" for reference. Of course credit to hockeyplayer. I can't attach the document on this forum, so if anyone is interested please let me know.
Oh_My_Baby, do you still have the Microsoft Document available? If so can you send email it me at jowardb1970@hotmail.com. About to do my 48000km service and don't want to pay the dealer price. Much appreciated. |
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| glevin |
Can you please send me the instructions as well?
To glevin@arrow.com
Thanks a lot.
Gene. |
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| gerrypez |
| Thanks for the info on how to replace the pollen filter. I thought this was done at my 30K, but the plastic was not cut and the filter was filled with crude (I'm at 60K). It took me 45 minutes, but I'm slow. (I got the filter from my local Honda dealer). |
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| gerrypez |
| Thanks for the info on how to replace the pollen filter. I thought this was done at my 30K, but the plastic was not cut and the filter was filled with crude (I'm at 60K). It took me 45 minutes, but I'm slow. (I got the filter from my local Honda dealer). |
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| gypsy |
It was a rainy day in Pittsburgh today, so armed with Hockeyplayers wonderful instructions and pix on the laptop propped up on the driver's seat, I tackled the pollen filter on my 01 X.
First, thank you thank you thank you Hockeyplayer as well as several of the followups. No way I would have tried this without your guidance.
All went well - just a few comments to get my 2c worth in here:
I'm ashamed this was the first replacement, with 74,000 miles on the vehicle. Disgusting is the only word for the filter.
I chose to remove the screw holding the thingy on the right side, instead of trying to disengage by pressing the middle. This was recommended on another site for my TL, and it worked well.
I did leave the right side hinge screw in - but I think it would be worth removing the whole door for at least the initial cutting time. And having the door's weight made it a bit tougher to line up the four screws on reassembly.
I used a Purolator cabin filter - perfect fit and price was right at Advance Auto. But I noted there were less than half the number of "pleats" in the filter material - don't know if this is better or worse than oem. Anyway, I plan to replace much much more frequently going forward.
Again, my thanks to all who provided guidance on this little project. It was fun. |
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| phild_mason |
as much of a hassle as the MDX is, I just did my RL and it is worse. Almost no way to do the RL without busting a tab or two. It also has two filters that are connected. At least there are still enough screws that it is all tight. It will be easier next time.
Between the RL and the MDX DIY saved some big bucks and yes it is kind of fun and rewarding. |
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| reds2k1 |
| Oh_My_Baby, please send the document to the following email address: kristianho@hotmail.com if the document is still available. |
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| sternrep |
i was told by the dealer that my 2002 touring mdx needed a new "air conditioner filter" so i told my trusty mechanic.
he had one ready for me and thought it would be an easy job. he was surprised when it didn't just unscrew and he wasn't able to pop it in. that is why i checked this message board. my mechanic used a flexable air filter instead of the gray one that came out. he will be surpised when i tell him of these instructions to cut the frame. that is so surprising. perhaps a flexable air filter (it was white) can help others just pull back the frame and bend it in there.
i'm still surprised by all this. |
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| ROTORRAY |
| DON'T cut the METAL bar that's behind the PLASTIC bar. It's the PLASTIC one that is cut. The metal bar is then removed by unscrewing two screws on each side of it . This is a do-it-yourself job. It just takes a little time and patience. |
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| ROTORRAY |
| DON'T cut the METAL bar that's behind the PLASTIC bar. It's the PLASTIC one that is cut. The metal bar is then removed by unscrewing two screws on each side of it . This is a do-it-yourself job. It just takes a little time and patience. |
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| Will4271 |
quote:
Originally posted by hockeyplayer
Once you have fought with the 2 screws you will be able to unlatch the glovebox and lift it out of the vehicle. This is what it will look like. I will tell you in advance that the screw on the door side is a b%$^. Someone else might have an easier way to get at that screw than me. I ended up unscrewing it with a phillips screwdriver with a longshaft. The screw has both a hex head and a phillips slot in the middle. I read in another post that removing the plastic piece that covers the fusebox is not that difficult so you may want to add that step. It will probably make removing that right screw a little easier. It will just add time to the install. The one screw nearest the center console is easy to remove.
I tried many screwdrivers but couldn't get to that screw. So I ended up moving back and forth the fuse box cover and it slided out.
After that it was easy. Thanks for a excellent how to. It made my task easier. :2: |
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| EXCALIBUR |
| Just changed my Cabin Air Filter today at 21,214 miles. It was definitely dirty and in need of replacement. Just follow hockeplayer's instructions on the first page of this thread and you will be back in service in no time at all.:4: |
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| EELA |
Two words of advice:
1. Do not unclip the damper. Just remove the screw that holds it to the glovebox.
2. As mentioned by someone else, you do not have to remove the passenger side screw. Just make sure that you have something to support the glovebox about 6-8" off the floor. You can then gently swing the glovebox towards you on the left, and you will have no problem cutting the plastic and changing the filter.
These two steps will save you much aggravation.
Good luck. |
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| mdx_actuary |
Thanks for all of the great instructions and pictures regarding this filter replacement ! I replaced my filter today (at 61,500 miles -- bought it certified pre-owned and the filter had never been changed), and it took me about 40 minutes.
For the right hand screw/bolt, I found that using a 8mm socket wrench with an extension was very helpful (after moving the fuse box cover).
The filter was quite dirty, but not as disgusting as some of the other ones that are pictured in this thread...
Thanks again ! |
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| andreseng |
quote:
Originally posted by EELA
1. Do not unclip the damper. Just remove the screw that holds it to the glovebox.
2. As mentioned by someone else, you do not have to remove the passenger side screw. Just make sure that you have something to support the glovebox about 6-8" off the floor. You can then gently swing the glovebox towards you on the left, and you will have no problem cutting the plastic and changing the filter.
These two steps will save you much aggravation.
hockeyplayer-
Add another satisfied forum member to the list. Took about 30 mins. I'm just over 30K and that filter was black. Might even consider changing them sooner than recommended. EELA's suggestions above were right on the money too. Thanks to everyone who participated.
G |
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| DannyBoy |
Thanks for your tips and pictures...I done my in 30 minutes and the filter is so dirty at 20K miles. However, I have done a little different with the right side of the glove box, I removed the screw instead of 'push the center it and pull apart' as hockeyplayer has suggested. I don't know if my way might cause any problem as I noticed that when I screw the nut back, I need to loosen a little bit in order to close the glove box. (I think the plastic damper on the side is moving back and forth when close and open the glove box)
Thanks,
DannyBoy |
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| Supercharger |
Just changed my cabin filter today. I just bought this 02 with 65K on ODO and the filter had never been replaced. It was FILTHY. Had dirt on BOTH sides of filter. I used my old 3M service vacuum with a thin tube attachment to clean the evaporator and filter housing.
I also used a Purolator filter from Advanceauto. MUCH less pleating than OEM, but I don't care. It will be changed every 10,000 miles anyway. FWIW, Purolator says it treats the filters to make them electrostatic for improved filtering over OEM.
I also did not need to take off the stops on the sides of the glove box. Just removed the fusebox cover and both hinge screws, seperated the damper and it came right out with the right amount of tilting. Piece of cake!!!!! Thanks Hockeyplayer. |
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| vqdriver |
just did this myself last night. very easy.
fyi, i got so sick of the mildewy smell, that i had started fantasizing about scenting the a/c. when i changed the filter, i also inserted a small amount of vacuum pellets fashioned together in a porous cheesecloth. works like a charm. smell is very subtle, but is quite pleasant.
i used restoration hardwares vacuum beads, lemongrass scent. i've used it in our vacuum and it lasts forever. i used a small handfull total. |
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