| X2Z |
| The rear blower on my 2003 just died a few days ago. Mileage wise I am out of warranty so I order the transistor intending to repair it myself. Just out or curiosity, I decided to call a local dealer (Hendrick Acura for those in the Charlotte, NC area) to see how much it would cost to repair. To my surprise they said they would take care of it for free since it is not that far past warranty, still under 4 years but 1800 miles over. I will let you guys know how it goes. |
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| barndg00 |
Just wanted to say thanks so much to this board - you just saved me at least $80, plus whatever a dealer in my area would have charged to diagnose and repair the problem. Noticed rear A/C not blowing - though lights on on the rear unit. Before deciding to check it into the dealer - I figured I'd see what the board had to say and WaaLaa - it is most likely the transister, and better yet, a $.45 fuse on the transister. Figured it was worth a shot so I ordered up my fuse and thermal grease and it came today, soldered it up (poorly, but it should work) and plugged it back in. Now we have rear air again! The dogs are much appreciative. THanks so much!
P.S. you can confirm that it's the fuse by checking the fuse for resistance with a multimeter. A good fuse has a moderate amount of resistance, a blown one stays at or near infinity (indicating no electrical path through the fuse, i.e. blown). Checked before and after my repair. |
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| Sinecure |
OK, the fuses showed up from Digikey today so I took the transistor out (note, you do NOT need tools to remove it. Just pop the cover off, press the button to remove the connector, then push down on the little tab on the surrounding plastic - located around 5 o'clock - and it will slide right out. You only need a screwdriver to take it apart to get at the fuse, once the unit is out of the car.
My concern is this. The fuses that came from Digikey do not have any insulation on the wire. The original Acura one had some blue insulation that came up to where the wires emerge from the black housing. Should I be concerned?
Now I just have to find a soldering iron. A guy in my office knows how to do this crap, but I'm useless. He's on vacation til next week so I may have to wait. Or is it as simple as clipping the old one off, putting the new one down and using a soldering iron to heat the connection? Or do I need stuff like flux (no idea what that is, but I remember from welding that its used in soldering) and some special kind of solder? |
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| snowmelt |
| The old ones are actually pushed through a little hole on each end and soldered. You need to heat up the solder and PULL the ends of the old one out. Keep those insulating sleeves an put them on the new ones. You then reheat those posts and put the new one through the hole. I didn't use any new solder. |
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| Sinecure |
I'm so proud of myself! I've never soldered anything before. I went to Radio Shack last night and got a $7.99 soldering kit. It came with a soldering iron, solder, some sort of cleaning tool and a little clamp. It worked perfectly! I just put the whole thing together, put it back in the car and there's cold air coming out the rear! Yeeha!
Thanks MDX.org crew for the help. Couldn't have done it without you.:2: :2: |
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| slash007 |
| After buying the fuse over two months ago, I finally put it in and it works great:) Thanks to DidMoraz and everyone else for the help. It was really easy and it is nice to have rear air for the first time in over a year! |
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| apple904 |
| This is a great thread. Followed the instructions and my rear air is working great!! Thanks to all for your posts. Acura should have a TSB on replacing that fuse. I would love to reverse my repair and take it in to the dealer and see what they would diagnose. |
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| badcanine |
I wanted to send a big thank you to the forum. I just bought a used Acura MDX with 50,000 miles on it and guess what? The rear AC was out. I completed the thermal fuse swapout in less than 20 mins once I got the parts. Great forums guys. This saved some bucks.
Badcanine |
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| Stewylouie |
| My rear A/C also stopped working. Replaced the transistor and voila, it works. Took less than 5 minutes. |
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| slash007 |
quote:
Originally posted by slash007
After buying the fuse over two months ago, I finally put it in and it works great:) Thanks to DidMoraz and everyone else for the help. It was really easy and it is nice to have rear air for the first time in over a year!
It's only been two months or so since I replaced the fuse and now my rear a/c is out again:( I have an extra fuse, so I'm hoping that it will fix the problem, but has anyone else had thier replacement fail since putting it in?
I just hope that it is the fuse again and not something else. |
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| bawhite73 |
quote:
Originally posted by slash007
It's only been two months or so since I replaced the fuse and now my rear a/c is out again:( I have an extra fuse, so I'm hoping that it will fix the problem, but has anyone else had thier replacement fail since putting it in?
I just hope that it is the fuse again and not something else.
Did you clean out the AC filter screen before you put the filter back on? Not sure if this contributes to the problem but some have speculated. |
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| slash007 |
Ignore my post as I am a moron.
I didn't check out the air good enough and it turns out that it was working. Of course I realized that after changing the part for a second time. I was used the a/c blowing air out of the top vents, but it turns out the heat was coming out of the back, but from the bottom I figured that out after putting the new fuse in and still not getting air from the top. I then messed with it and it worked. I guess I just assumed that it didn't work since it had happened before.
Anyhow, lesson learned:) |
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| norris14 |
| Just wanted to give props to DidMoroz for the fuse suggestion. Bought the 45 cent part, put it in, rear a/c works perfectly. I would say do this before replacing the transistor. It's cheap and easy, and it may be all it takes to get things working again. |
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| ketsana |
Has anyone ever tried to replace the transistor as well?
Is it even removable from the prongs?
If so do you have the part#?
Thanks.
This forum has been super helpful so far. |
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| one4gatr |
| I think we joined the club... anybody notice the center armrest console heating up prior to the fix??? |
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| djw |
Sorry for coming in late but,
How exactly does one remove the fuse/transistor assembly from the center unit.
I have the panel off and the plug removed, but it's not obvious how the little assembly pops out.
Thanks. |
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| djw |
| Disregard the question on how to remove. Throwing a little light on the subject, there's a small plastic lock at the 5 o'clock position. Depressing the lock allows the transistor unit to turn clockwise and drop out. |
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| djw |
Replacing the thermal fuse solved my problem as well.
Thanks to all. |
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| djw |
Could this failure be related to overheating caused by blocking the rear heat vents? It does not take much to cover these vents completely.
I've found that the add-on rubber mats tend to block the low rear air outlet. In addition, this area is often further blocked by back-packs and book bags mounded in the center area (caused by munchkins). |
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| lester123 |
quote:
Originally posted by Stewylouie
My rear A/C also stopped working. Replaced the transistor and voila, it works. Took less than 5 minutes.
Brougt my MDX to dealer for this problem. I have 75K miles. They checked it out and got estimate for about $100 for transister and $100 labor. I told them that this has been a real problem and dealer should call Acura to get job done complementary. They did this and then there was no charge!!!!! |
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| jagmeister |
I also ordered the fuse from digikey and successfully installed it. Now the rear heat is back on.
I really appreciate the invaluable information you shared. |
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| DHallman |
I have the same problem described here. Does anyone know where the blower for the rear heat/air conditioning is located?
Thanks,
DH |
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| hammermdx |
quote:
Originally posted by DHallman
I have the same problem described here. Does anyone know where the blower for the rear heat/air conditioning is located?
Thanks,
DH
Take a look at the 3rd page of this thread, there are pics there. |
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| BWSmith201 |
I've been gone from this forum for over a year (sold my MDX in January, 2006), but it's nice to see that one of my old posts continue to be helpful. It's gratifying!
Probably going to return to the MDX family in a few months, though- I really like the new ones... |
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| Warzau |
Just want to update this thread, my rear A/C died and dreaded going in to the dealers ship even with extended warranty, I have 100 dollar deductable. Searched here and see our common problem. Ordered from Digikey ( I shopped there before replace a transitor on a threadmill) came today. Took all of 10 min to fix. The hardest part was removing the part, need little fingers.
8 bucks later some elementary school soldering and rear blower works again. Thanks every one, now my little girls are warm, in this freakzoid weather April 6 and its 20 degs outside, sheesh. |
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| AV8nDOC |
Great thread and solution!!
Have taken out part and ordered thermal replacement.
I'm wondering if anyone is going to call me crazy, but I am just smart enough and dumb enough to think of a temporary patch. Should I just solder in a temporary jump wire across the thermal wire terminals????
This should (1) allow the fan to work (2) prove the thermal coupler is the problem and (3) allow a temporary function of the fan -- albeit without thermal protection
how insane am I to do this?
Intake screen looks like an uncleaned dryer lint screen--so this could have been contributory to the problem . . . ? |
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| AV8nDOC |
| so I jumped the terminals with a paperclip soldered in place -- this proved it was the problem as it worked fine until my new Thermal Cutoff arrived today -- a quick solder and removal of the jump wire and it is back to normal. |
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| marshalljackson |
Hmmm,
My Acura Dealer (Acura of Stevens Creek in Santa Clara, CA) told me that this was a huge deal. They said that I would have to completely dissassemble the center console to replace the '$100' transistor. They said that they would do it for $250 labor + $117 parts. After reading this thread, I decided to just buy the part ($117, ouch) and install it myself. It took about 10 minutes and required NO tools. THOSE SCUMBAGS AT THE DEALER!
This is obviously a widespread known problem by Acura. Anyone want to be part of a Class Action? |
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| jsrichards |
I read all the posts. This is really great stuff! I've done the visual vent lamp indicator test and it indicates a blower motor circuit problem (1 blink). The transistor tested fine, so I know that's not the problem. What next? Has anyone had to go beyond this point?
I saw some used blower motors for sale ($15-$30) with warranties. Should I bite the bullet and just swap out the old unit? If anyone else has done this, I'd appreciate some hand holding or a link to an online resource for this task. I guess the ultimate option is to take it to the dealer and get taken. :confused: |
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| apple904 |
quote:
Originally posted by marshalljackson
Hmmm,
My Acura Dealer (Acura of Stevens Creek in Santa Clara, CA) told me that this was a huge deal. They said that I would have to completely dissassemble the center console to replace the '$100' transistor. They said that they would do it for $250 labor + $117 parts. After reading this thread, I decided to just buy the part ($117, ouch) and install it myself. It took about 10 minutes and required NO tools. THOSE SCUMBAGS AT THE DEALER!
This is obviously a widespread known problem by Acura. Anyone want to be part of a Class Action?
Stories like that make my blood boil. What lying sacks of sh--. I am so tired of getting screwed by my dealer for excessive labor and parts. And please if there is a mechanic for Acura that's thinking about replying to defend this crap don't bother, just re-read the post above. My next vehicle will be a BMW lease with free service. |
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| DidMoroz |
quote:
Originally posted by jsrichards
I read all the posts. This is really great stuff! I've done the visual vent lamp indicator test and it indicates a blower motor circuit problem (1 blink). The transistor tested fine, so I know that's not the problem. What next? Has anyone had to go beyond this point?
I saw some used blower motors for sale ($15-$30) with warranties. Should I bite the bullet and just swap out the old unit? If anyone else has done this, I'd appreciate some hand holding or a link to an online resource for this task. I guess the ultimate option is to take it to the dealer and get taken. :confused:
Jsrichards, I am not sure if you changed out the blower yet, but here is how you test the blower motor. First of all check fuse #52 under the hood and #3 under dash, if good do this: Connect the #2 terminal (I think blu/blk wire) of the rear blower motor 2P to body ground with a jumper wire. Turn the ignition ON (II) Motor will run if it is good, if not next step would be transistor. Let me know if you need more. |
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| Sinecure |
quote:
Originally posted by jsrichards
I saw some used blower motors for sale ($15-$30) with warranties. Should I bite the bullet and just swap out the old unit? If anyone else has done this, I'd appreciate some hand holding or a link to an online resource for this task. I guess the ultimate option is to take it to the dealer and get taken. :confused:
Where did you see used rear blower motors? I'm thinking of replacing mine by myself. I replaced the transistor fuse a while back, but my rear blower motor makes a lot of noise b/c it is out of balance or something. If I could get a new one for $30 and replace it myself that would be a cheap fix. |
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| jsrichards |
OK, here's the deal. The motor was a front blower motor, even though not specified in the ad. Apparently, the only way to get a REAR blower motor is to buy the entire unit that sits under the center console, not just the fan. That entire center console unit costs $250. Pam's Auto in Minnesota seems to be an honest dealer.
Regarding my MDX, I called Acura Customer Care. They wouldn't consider paying for the unit until I took it in to the dealer and got it diagnosed. When I took it in, the dealer said it was a bad transistor. Arrrgh!! When I had bench-checked the transistor, it only showed 4K ohms resistance, not the infinite resistance that I was led to believe. That is why I thought the transistor was good, but apparently not. It would be nice to know the specs for the transistor. Maybe mine was just outside of normal range, I don't know.
In the meantime I'm going to impress upon Acura that their negligence caused the problem. The screen over the blower motor was completely caked with dust (I have video). I doubt it was ever cleaned during maintenance visits. I'll report back my findings.
UPDATE 7/20/2007
I just got Acura (Corporate) to send me a check for the entire repair. They claim that it was a goodwill gesture. I'm convinced that they didn't want me posting the video of how caked up their blower motor filters are on YouTube. I still think that Acura owes a lot of people out there a lot of money over these repairs. I think a Class Action suit would go far and that Acura would settle out of court very quickly. It wouldn't take much for a jury to see how badly caked these filters are and agree that Acura is negligent. I encourage people to look into this as an option. Good luck! |
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| dcomdude |
quote:
Originally posted by jsrichards
The screen over the blower motor was completely caked with dust (I have video). I doubt it was ever cleaned during maintenance visits.
Just wanted to add that I also had this problem with my 03 MDX and temporarily shunting the thermal fuse (until the permanent replacement from Digikey arrives) got it working again. I really appreciate this thread!
My rear A/C blower was also mostly covered with dust, which I simply used a vacuum to clean in place.
This leaves me wondering if the front blower also has a screen that needs to be cleaned (separate from the pollen filter)? Does anyone know? |
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| hammermdx |
| It's on the dirvers side to the right of the gas pedal. Just pull off the plastic cover. You will all see a small round metal screen. This is the filter for the rear ac/heat. |
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| dcomdude |
quote:
Originally posted by hammermdx
It's on the dirvers side to the right of the gas pedal. Just pull off the plastic cover. You will all see a small round metal screen. This is the filter for the rear ac/heat.
That's the blower for the rear heat/ac. Does the blower for the front heater/ac also have a screen that should be cleaned regularly, or does the pollen filter serve that purpose? (Just don't want my front AC to go out for the same reason .:) |
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| hammermdx |
quote:
Originally posted by dcomdude
That's the blower for the rear heat/ac. Does the blower for the front heater/ac also have a screen that should be cleaned regularly, or does the pollen filter serve that purpose? (Just don't want my front AC to go out for the same reason .:)
Sorry about that, good question, and I don't know. |
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| MaD'X |
quote:
Originally posted by hammermdx
Sorry about that, good question, and I don't know.
A follow on question -- is there a separate transistor assembly for the front blower as well? If so where is it located? How easy is it to replace? I have the opposite problem with my MDX -- the rear vents work fine but the front vents do not!
BTW, I had replaced the rear transistor last year to fix the problem with the rear vents -- all worked well over the past year -- but now the front vents are non-op-- agggh! |
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| gasman |
| Our 05 MDX, 32K, just had rear AC non=functional - noticeed it on way to Tennessee from FL - (no rear passengers, sol no problem - called dealer in FL, said it was transistor, & will repair when we return - said about 20 min job. Hope that does it! |
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| cliff clavin |
Same problem, no rear ac but lights still work. The lovely dealer quoted $180 Canadian $$ for the transistor.....just the part, no labour......screw them, placed the order with digikey and hopefully the parts will arrive before our holidays on friday....parts guy says they have fixed a ton on warranty but the service advisor would not budge on a goodwill repair....keep in mind I just spent about $1200 on miscellaneous repairs with them....
Thanks very much to the posters who have provide the solution in the thread. Your efforts are very much appreciated.
Regards,
Quick update, parts were ordered on Monday and delivered to Canada on Tuesday. I am impressed and thrilled with digikey.....
June 29 update,
Parts were installed and problem solved. Thanks guys. |
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| thekeithers |
Sigh... bought an 02 MDX Touring w/Navi at 71k miles. Over the weekend, the front A/C stopped blowing. I poured over relay's, fuses, blower motor, and finally found the transistor module under the passenger side glove box.
Bought a new one at the dealer today for 100bucks and put it in... A/C worked great for 10 minutes and it blew the transistor module again.
Came across this thread (after all this, of course) --- I'm going to jump the thermal cutoff for now. Anyone think this is a huge safety issue? What could be causing the cutoff to trip (put differently, what could be causing all this excess heat?) |
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| AV8nDOC |
keithers,
you should check (1) the cabin filter and clean it, and (2) open up the motor impellor unit and be sure there is not gunk in it
it could be one or both of them is dirty enough that the motor is having to work hard and draw too much current and this is what then blows the little thermal resistor -- that resistor is the weakest point on the blower motor circuit.
if replacing the resistor worked in the front (as did mine last week too!) then it proves the rest of the circuitry is working properly
I'll bet you it is one of the above -- please report back on your findings
-D |
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| thekeithers |
Try as I might - I could not get the impeller off of the blower motor and I eventually gave up. I did manage to shake 5 pounds of gunk out of the motor, so hopefully that helps!
I checked the cabin filter - looks like the dealer did their job and replaced it at the 60k mile service...
Put a new thermal fuse in my old transistor unit, reinstalled everything and so far so good.
I have a BRAND NEW Front Blower Transistor unit if someone wants it - note I have put in a brand new thermal fuse into the unit (read above if you wonder why)... Since I bought this before learning about the thermal fuse issue - I'm just trying to make some of my cash back. I'll sell for $45.00 +shipping - I payed almost $100 including tax... |
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| vapors |
| The rear A/C was broken in my 02 X when I traded it in for my 07 X. I didn't know this problem was so common either. |
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| Zrelaxed |
quote:
Originally posted by TnR
I replaced the thermal fuse. Piece of cake with all of the posted pictures and info.
Now the rear AC is on High fan as soon as the ignition switch is turned on. The rear control has no effect and the front rear AC button has no effect either. I have removed the transistor unit because the continuous noise is unbearable. This is my wife's car, and she says she does not recall the fan staying on high prior to it failing.
I'm thinking that another component in the transistor is bad and may have been the cause of the thermal fuse to go in the first place. I hate the thought of shelling out $85 to replace the transistor unit to find out that there is something else causing this.
Does anyone know how to test the transistor to see if it's functioning properly?
Any other suggestions?
Thanks for all the info. Without it I would have never gotten this far.
I have the same problem... Jumped the thermal fuse and the rear fan now works, but stays on at full speed - rear control & front rear AC button has no effect. Does this mean the issue is the transistor unit vs just the fuse??? |
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| lpcome |
Finally join the same 'problem club'...But no pictures on page 3?
Where's the transistor? Is it right of the driver seat? |
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| Smiling Phases |
Me too! 03 (had an 01 with 107K miles), 75k miles. Dealer wants $330 for the part and 2 hours labour! I chickened out, bought complete transistor part from dealer in Kalispell, Montana (same as in the Honda Pilot). Will drive down to pickup.
Many many thanks to the posters who explained this and even put pictures. I found a TSB for this also, 03-048 that comes with pictures too.
I especially appreciate the info to check the FRONT unit too...gonna vacuum both areas carefully.
Thanks MDX.ORG. |
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| gasman |
| Took my '05 MDX, 33402 miles to dealer today - replaced circuit bd. (transistor), cleaned filter screen, washed & vacumned car - (45 min total) - all warranty - works fine! |
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| AV8nDOC |
quote:
Originally posted by gasman
Took my '05 MDX, 33402 miles to dealer today - replaced circuit bd. (transistor), cleaned filter screen, washed & vacumned car - (45 min total) - all warranty - works fine!
getting it done under warranty is great for the car owner, but to be the cynic I am I have to point out that you mentioned it took 45 minutes for it all . . . imagine what the service bill to Acura says = parts, diagnosis, and install labour of probably twice that much time or more!! = the dealer just made a lot of money off you ripping off Acura . . . . |
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| TeamPlayer |
Is "cleaning the filter" a standard part of scheduled service?
If so, I would like to press Acura to cover the repair of my rear A/C transistor. (I'm out of warranty on my '01). |
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| AV8nDOC |
quote:
Originally posted by TeamPlayer
Is "cleaning the filter" a standard part of scheduled service?
Since I've never let a dealership do maintenance work I can do better and for cheaper, I'd have to say I don't know. However, since I know it is not in the owner's manual or the service manual as "maintenance" then it certainly is NOT part of routine scheduled maintenance--but it only takes about 30 seconds and you'd think they'd learn to do it for people anyway. |
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| Redwingz |
.... reading the various replies have left me a little confused.
I have a similar problem on my 02 (approx 76k miles). The rear a/c light turns ON but the blower does not kick-in. Even when using just the regular blower, there is no airflow from the air vents in the passenger row.
If the light goes on, could it STILL be the transistor or could it be the blower. If it is a transistor I'll take a shot at it, but beyond that, I will probably have to fork out the dough to the dealer :(
Is there a quick way to telling whether it is the transistor or blower motor?
Any advice appreciates...TIA
RW |
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| DidMoroz |
Redwingz:
It is a fuse in transistor assembly. It is always (99.9%) the thermal fuse that goes bad.
Here is how you test the blower motor. First of all check fuse #52 under the hood and #3 under dash, if good do this: Connect the #2 terminal (I think blu/blk wire) of the rear blower motor 2P to body ground with a jumper wire. Turn the ignition ON (II) Motor will run if it is good, if not next step would be transistor. Let me know if you need more help.:2: |
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| Redwingz |
quote:
Originally posted by DidMoroz
Redwingz:
It is a fuse in transistor assembly. It is always (99.9%) the thermal fuse that goes bad.
Here is how you test the blower motor. First of all check fuse #52 under the hood and #3 under dash, if good do this: Connect the #2 terminal (I think blu/blk wire) of the rear blower motor 2P to body ground with a jumper wire. Turn the ignition ON (II) Motor will run if it is good, if not next step would be transistor. Let me know if you need more help.:2:
Thanks DidMoroz....
Do you have any diagrams that shows where the rear blower motor can be located.... TIA.
RW |
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| AV8nDOC |
RW,
it's fine and dandy to check the fuse box fuses and all, but it sounds like your problem is the rear thermal fuse. You can pull the power transistor unit and place a jumper wire across the thermal fuse if you really want to prove it is the thermal fuse. I soldered in a temporary paperclip wire while my thermal fuse was being shipped, which was pretty fast.
-D |
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| Redwingz |
First, thanks to everyone and mostly to DidMorzo.
I now have a better understanding for the problem and the resolution.
Thanks to everyones contributions.... the information on this forum has
been invaluable and has saved me $$ even before this incident.
Now getting to the Rear A/C problem, these are my options as I see it.
A. Replace the Transistor assembly (quick, painless, under $100)
B. Replace the thermal fuse (Under $10)
C. Goto the dealer/stealer and get screwed for about $250-$300
First, option C is out of the running for obvious reasons.
If going with A, for my comparison shopping, I can buy the tranistor
assembly (Part Number: 79330-S3V-A51) from the following places:
estore.honda.com $113.77 shipped
acuraoemparts.com approx $83.00 shipped
bernadiparts.com approx $71.77 shipped
(BTW: has anyone dealt with bernadiparts.com or acuraoemparts.com before...?)
If going with option B, I would have to muster enough courage to do some creative
soldering and risk my wife's babble if I screw up. :). I can just order the
thermal fuse at www.digikey.com for about $10.00 shipped.
(FYI The Digikey part no. is P10920-ND, decription - Thermal Cutoff 114C 2A/250VAC)
If I go with B, do I need thermal grease also.... don't want to go down path B and
later find out that I missed something minor.
Thanks again |
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| AV8nDOC |
replacing the thermal fuse is simple -- if you can change your own oil then I'm sure you'd have the aptitude to do the soldering.
you could get a low watt solder gun at radio shack or such place or online.
I found enough thermal greese was there to just smear it back onto the new part. The fuse part is small like an unbent small size paperclip. you just bend the ends to make it into a "C-shape", touch the tip of the solder gun to the metal solder joint and wait a few seconds for the solder to liquify, then pull out the end -- do this to both sides and you have removed the old part. Then insert the new one by heating up the solder and stick the new one thru the hole while the solder is liquid and then the other end and you are done. I have done both the front and rear thermal fuses (FYI they are the same part and you might as well order 3 or 4 of them for the same shipping cost!!). Both times there was plenty of solder there already and there was no need to add any more solder--this is important as it could be something you are worried about, but it would not be hard to add even if you needed to. You are not soldering to a circuit board, it's just an isolated wire!!
hope that gives you the info and courage to order up the fuses!!
it's really simple -- I guarantee you'll laugh about how easy it was when you are done!
-D |
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| Redwingz |
quote:
Originally posted by AV8nDOC
....hope that gives you the info and courage to order up the fuses!!
it's really simple -- I guarantee you'll laugh about how easy it was when you are done!
-D
Thanks AV8nDOC... you know what, I think I will go ahead order the thermal fuse and give it a try. Worst case, I would have screwed up the transistor assembly and then I can buy one....
Thanks again! |
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| DidMoroz |
Just in case anyone needs a circuit diagram for rear AC. It is for 2002 model but should be the same for all years. Enjoy…
 :4: |
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| kerpal |
quote:
Originally posted by AV8nDOC
replacing the thermal fuse is simple -- if you can change your own oil then I'm sure you'd have the aptitude to do the soldering.
you could get a low watt solder gun at radio shack or such place or online.
I found enough thermal greese was there to just smear it back onto the new part. The fuse part is small like an unbent small size paperclip. you just bend the ends to make it into a "C-shape", touch the tip of the solder gun to the metal solder joint and wait a few seconds for the solder to liquify, then pull out the end -- do this to both sides and you have removed the old part. Then insert the new one by heating up the solder and stick the new one thru the hole while the solder is liquid and then the other end and you are done. I have done both the front and rear thermal fuses (FYI they are the same part and you might as well order 3 or 4 of them for the same shipping cost!!). Both times there was plenty of solder there already and there was no need to add any more solder--this is important as it could be something you are worried about, but it would not be hard to add even if you needed to. You are not soldering to a circuit board, it's just an isolated wire!!
hope that gives you the info and courage to order up the fuses!!
it's really simple -- I guarantee you'll laugh about how easy it was when you are done!
-D
To do that.. You also have to refill your freon.. |
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| AV8nDOC |
quote:
Originally posted by kerpal
To do that.. You also have to refill your freon..
:confused:
I guess that is some dumb-ass reply??
Well,
(1) no newer honda product has R12(freon), but I'm sure you know that
(2) you can legally buy R134a, but you can't legally put it in your car, but I bet you know that too.
(3) what does routine maintenance or anything in this thread have to do with that crap
:1:
PS
dude, how lame are you? you join up and just post some random responses to threads see postings here |
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| sidewinder |
| Guys I've posted the pics for the front transistor assembly fix on this thread. |
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| kerpal |
quote:
Originally posted by AV8nDOC
:confused:
I guess that is some dumb-ass reply??
Well,
(1) no newer honda product has R12(freon), but I'm sure you know that
(2) you can legally buy R134a, but you can't legally put it in your car, but I bet you know that too.
(3) what does routine maintenance or anything in this thread have to do with that crap
:1:
PS
dude, how lame are you? you join up and just post some random responses to threads see postings here
Well.. Your some smart ass here in this forum like a know it all figure.. Heck.. I recharge my freon.. Coz I use it.. Well if your car doesn't need it, then fine.. Good for you.. Because today, there are fake freons being distributed to the auto supplies... Don't you know that?? YOur the smart ass know it all here..
P.S. incase you don't know, fake freons will have a negative effect on you A/C... smart ass |
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| AV8nDOC |
Thanks MR. Kerpal, which MDX do you put freon into -- the real stuff.
Are you the guy who keeps emailing me about the estate of my long lost uncle? If so I replied about sending you the money you wanted . . . :2:
quote:
Originally posted by kerpal
Dearest Friend,
I'm happy to inform you about my success
in getting those funds transferred under the cooperation
of a new partner from paraguay. Presently I'm in Paraguay
for investment projects with my own share. Meanwhile,I
didn't forget your past efforts and attempts to assist me
in transferring those funds despitethat it failed us some
how.Now contact my secretary,his name is Mr.chineduWILLIAM EMAIL(kerpal@yahoo.ahole)
Ask him to send you the total
($800.000 )which I kept for your compensation for all the
past efforts and attempts to assist me in this matter. I
appreciated your collective efforts at that time so feel
free and get in touch with my secretary Mr.chinedu WILLIAM
and instruct him where to send your check Draft to.Please do
let me know immediately you receive it so that we can
share the joy after all the sufferness at that time.In the
moment,
I'm very busy here because of the investment
projects which me and the new partner are having at
hand,finally,remember that i had forwarded instruction to
the secretary on your behalf to receive that money,so feel
free to get intouch with Mr.chinedu WILLIAM without any delay.
Best Regards,
Kerpal
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| phins2rt |
| Excellent thread! Thanks everyone for contributing. I just noticed this weekend that I have this problem as well. May have been broken for months. I am hoping it is a fuse and will order one today. I will update when I have this fixed. Thanks again for saving us $$$$!!! |
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| phins2rt |
| Success! Swapping out the fuse fixed my problem. 40 minutes start to finish. Thanks again everyone for the pics, tips and info!!:29::2party: |
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| dj-mdx2 |
| Don't you just love this forum? :) |
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| Molson |
| I would like to thank all the people for the helpful information posted on this forum in regards to the rear A/C console. To be honest, I was a bit sceptic that you can fix it yourself for 17 CAD when the dealership charges you as much as $250 - $300. I love my MDX and I couldn’t stand the rear A/C not working. Thanks a bunch. Excellent post for this particular issue, great forum altogether. The directions were excellent, it took me ½ hour total to do the job (take out transistor assembly, take it apart to replace the thermal fuse (cut-off), install the assembly back). Good reference to Digi-key also, who delivered the part (I ordered two spares also) in just 2 days. I’ll revisit this site every time I’ll have a problem (hopefully not too often). |
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| dj-mdx2 |
quote:
Originally posted by Molson
I’ll revisit this site every time I’ll have a problem (hopefully not too often).
You don't have to have a problem to visit the site. :D And if you find a solution to a problem, that's even better. |
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| Molson |
quote:
Originally posted by dj-mdx2
You don't have to have a problem to visit the site. :D And if you find a solution to a problem, that's even better.
Yea, you're right dj-mdx2. See you around. |
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| hopper |
Rear A/C problem too.
Ordered fuse from Digikey a couple weeks ago. Soldered it today. Works Great:D
Thanks to all for the insight and for the pics on how to solve!!! |
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| Markedoc |
Ordered the fuse, soldered it today, and the rear A/C works!
THANKS! |
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| MDX_Daddy |
quote:
Originally posted by DidMoroz
Was told to check this link here :)
Looks simple enough to do, but have some questions.....
~ So to get to the transistor and remove it, it is on the driver side, right?
~ Also the terminal grease can be the same grease as you can put on sparkplugs, would that be ok?? Thanks |
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| Markedoc |
Driver's side - yes - just gently pull the panel off (so you don't break tabs) and you'll see it.
Grease - I would GUESS that's a different type of grease (dielectric) which I think helps guard against moisture. I'd get a tube of thermal grease at Radio Shack. |
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| phins2rt |
| I just used the residual grease on the board when I soldered it. Seemed to be plenty there. Don't forget to order extra fuses in case this happens again. |
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| feistel |
| The rear A/C on my 02 MDX went out somewhere around 60k miles. I ordered and installed a new fuse as instructed here and now the rear A/C works again!!! Thanks guys. |
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| roadking03 |
| i have the same problem with my rear ac blower it was not working.so i changed the transistor and it worked fine.but i plugged in the coupler and noticed the metal fines on the transistor unit got very very hot.so i plugged in the transistor and never thought anything of the heat coming off it.then this morning i noticed the rear a/c is not working again.does anyone know if the transistor is suppose to get that hot or do i have an electrical problem.thanks |
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| Warzau |
quote:
Originally posted by roadking03
i have the same problem with my rear ac blower it was not working.so i changed the transistor and it worked fine.but i plugged in the coupler and noticed the metal fines on the transistor unit got very very hot.so i plugged in the transistor and never thought anything of the heat coming off it.then this morning i noticed the rear a/c is not working again.does anyone know if the transistor is suppose to get that hot or do i have an electrical problem.thanks
Did you replace the thermal paste? |
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| roadking03 |
| i replaced the whole transistor unit.not the fuse.the heat sink got very hot when i plugged it in that it almost burned my hand |
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