| GG02-Mark |
Dealer wants $500.00 !!!
Is it hard to change pads yourself. Special tools needed?
Thanks
Mark |
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| mdx99 |
quote:
Originally posted by GG02-Mark
Dealer wants $500.00 !!!
Is it hard to change pads yourself. Special tools needed?
Thanks
Mark
Get the parts from the dealer and go to your local brake shop, they usually charge $50 labor for front brake. you can save a bundle. |
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| richkuan |
A set of pads costs around $50 from dealers ($30 or so from an auto parts store). All you need to do are
1. Take off the wheels.
2. Remove one bolt from the caliper (can be very tight and hard to get loose).
3. swing the caliper up and replace the pads.
4. Put things back together. It's better you have a torque wrench to tighten the caliper bolt and wheel nuts.
You should also check if there is any sign of leaking or wet area that indicate leaking.
Optional things you can do:
1. Clean the brake parts.
2. Apply brake quiet gel.
3. Measure thickness of the rotors making sure they are within spec.
Not too difficult if you have some home auto repair experience.
I think it's reasonable that if you do it by youself for around $120 for all stuff you need from dealer. |
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| Gregc |
I would get the Service manual at a minimum, lots of good information in there.
You never want to put new pads on rotors that are not true and flat.
I would do the following
1. Have the rotors resurfaced.
2. Rebuild the Calipers (easier than it sounds)
3. Replace the pads.
4. Replace the Brake fluid.
If you do not rebuild the calipers you do not want to push the old fluid back into the expensive pump motor, you want to open the bleed valves and then push the pistons back. Then replaced the fluid. I would be sure to lubricate the pins that hold on the calipers.
Remember to check the parking brake shoes on the rear brakes, unless you have ever driven with the parking brake on these should not need replacement.
I would get the Acura Pads as they come with the necessary pad shims, they eliminate squeeking. Be sure to get either Molykote M77 grease or Daikalub 528D grease for the pad shims (comes with the Acura pads if I am not mistaken). You can save some money if you do it yourself. If the job is done correctly The following should be done.
1. Rotors resurfaced (or replaced)
2. Calipers rebuilt
3. Pins and pin boots and pad retainers replaced
4. New pads and shims
5. New Fluid
It is very easy to get to $400+ range if done by a professional. They should not do brake job without doing all the steps above.
If you need new rotors the price will be higher, or you can take it to one of the $99 an axle guys. I have never met anone that has gotten out of one of those places for that price!
Greg in Atlanta |
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| BaldEagle |
| How many miles on your X Mark? Do the front and rear need replaced or just the front? |
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| perk |
quote:
Originally posted by Gregc
I would get the Service manual at a minimum, lots of good information in there.
You never want to put new pads on rotors that are not true and flat.
I would do the following
1. Have the rotors resurfaced.
2. Rebuild the Calipers (easier than it sounds)
3. Replace the pads.
4. Replace the Brake fluid.
If you do not rebuild the calipers you do not want to push the old fluid back into the expensive pump motor, you want to open the bleed valves and then push the pistons back. Then replaced the fluid. I would be sure to lubricate the pins that hold on the calipers.
Remember to check the parking brake shoes on the rear brakes, unless you have ever driven with the parking brake on these should not need replacement.
I would get the Acura Pads as they come with the necessary pad shims, they eliminate squeeking. Be sure to get either Molykote M77 grease or Daikalub 528D grease for the pad shims (comes with the Acura pads if I am not mistaken). You can save some money if you do it yourself. If the job is done correctly The following should be done.
1. Rotors resurfaced (or replaced)
2. Calipers rebuilt
3. Pins and pin boots and pad retainers replaced
4. New pads and shims
5. New Fluid
It is very easy to get to $400+ range if done by a professional. They should not do brake job without doing all the steps above.
If you need new rotors the price will be higher, or you can take it to one of the $99 an axle guys. I have never met anone that has gotten out of one of those places for that price!
Greg in Atlanta
Do you need to do the following?
1. Replace the pads. Yes, this is almost certainly all that you need to do.
2. Have the rotors resurfaced. NO, unless they are shuttering or wobbling during braking. (often called warped rotors)
3. Rebuild the Calipers (easier than it sounds). Absolutely NO, unless calipers leaking brake fluid, which virtually never happens.
4. Replace the Brake fluid. Absolutely NO, unless you have more than 100k miles on car AND fluid appears wrong color.
As far as difficulty level, replacing brakes is about a 2 out of 10 on difficulty scale. Go for it! |
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| DaleB |
quote:
Originally posted by perk
Have the rotors resurfaced. NO, unless they are shuttering or wobbling during braking. (often called warped rotors)
Replace the Brake fluid. Absolutely NO, unless you have more than 100k miles on car AND fluid appears wrong color.
Correct on turning, although it is fairly easy to have checked.
But the surface should be lightly 'dressed' to remove any glaze and improve contact surface.
As recommended by most mechanics, not just ones trying to make a huge profit, the fluid should be changed every 2 to 3 years. Moisture is continuously absorbed by brake fluid before significant color change is noted. You should not wait for it to look bad. 100K by normal driving standards would be after 8 years, way too long!
Here is a good article on the procedure, if you elect to do it yourself. I believe it runs about $45-65 depending on the shop. (not a dealership). Hardly a bank-breaker if done every 3 years as recommended by Honda.
http://popularmechanics.com/automot...e_system_flush/ |
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| JimH |
| If one feels comfortable changing brakes, etc., then you can do it yourself and save some $. However, if any doubts, I would get the brake job done at a reputable business that truly knows what needs to be done based on the actual condition of the MDX that is being serviced. It should not cost $ 500 to do the work required, and the cost should be substantially less. It is worth spending $ to get a good job done since this is an important function on the vehicle. |
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| evoge |
quote:
Originally posted by JimH
If one feels comfortable changing brakes, etc., then you can do it yourself and save some $.
If you need to ask in the first place, then you should probably reconsider doing them yourself. Or work along-side someone with more experience on your first try. |
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| zafer |
quote:
Originally posted by evoge
If you need to ask in the first place, then you should probably reconsider doing them yourself. Or work along-side someone with more experience on your first try.
:29:
After parts, the labor cost of having a shop do it barely comes close to a trip to the supermarket; alcohol not included. |
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| DaleB |
quote:
Originally posted by zafer
:29:
After parts, the labor cost of having a shop do it barely comes close to a trip to the supermarket; alcohol not included.
So that was your shopping list left at the bar!!! :D |
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| 12BlueX |
I haven't replaced the pads on the X yet (it's only one week old) but I have changed pads and rotors on both VW Passat and Pontiac Firebird. General steps are same. If you like doing things on your own and save few bucks, I highly recommend giving it a shot. The most time consuming part is jacking up the car and taking the wheels off.
Here's the link to the Audiworld that shows you step by step that you should be able to follow. http://www.audiworld.com/tech/wheel25.shtml
Few additional advices:
Make sure you have tools that are necessary.
1. Jacks with jack stands
2. Wheel chokes
3. 6" C-clamps ($5 to $6 at Home Depot/Lowes) used to push the calipers in.
4. Torque wrench to install the wheels correctly (or just tighten it and take it to Costco/Discount Tire to have them torque it for you for free)
5. Hex wrench to take caliper bolts off (Passats and Firebird used 7mm hex wrench.. not sure about X....maybe someone can chime in).
6. Brake pads (not necessary have to be OEM but it's up to you)
7. "Brake Quiet" - it's a spray can that shoots blue gel. You spray this on the backing of the brake pads to avoid squeals. You can get this at any Auto Parts store for less than $5.
8. 3 hours of your time. You maybe able to do it quicker once you learn how but at the beginning, it's better to go safe and slow.
9. Metal wire hanger. Use it to keep the caliper hanging while you replace the pads.
Feel free to post questions you may have. The above seems bit daunting but it's actually quite easy to do. |
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| JLee |
question, are there any special tools like a hex wrench ?
I need to take a stab at this and i looked on the caliper and it looked like a bolt on the back holding the caliper in place, wanted to make sure i didn't unscrew it and a recessed hex bolt lied beneath...
i plan to order pads from hondaacuraworld today..!
jeff |
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| G. COLTON |
One think that I have not seen mentioned is supporting the caliper after you have unbolted it from the vehicle. DO NOT let it hang be the brake fluid line. Keep it supported.
I cannot remember the last time I took a vehicle to the shop to change pads. The only time I had one surfaced was when one was damaged because pad wore early and low pad warning signal did not work.
I consider disc brakes very easy. Lots easier than the old drum brakes which I have also changed many of.
Do not know if Chilton Maintgenance manuals are still published but they are a great source for the Shade Tree mechanic.
Good luck.
G |
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| steel |
| Just replaced front and rear brakes (X has 52,000 miles). Job was very easy and no special tools required. The bolts holding the calipers on are 12mm on the back and 14mm on the front. This is not a hard job. |
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| steel |
| I almost forgot, the dreaded brake clunk is gone!!!!! We'll see how long though........ |
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| phins2rt |
quote:
Originally posted by steel
Just replaced front and rear brakes (X has 52,000 miles). Job was very easy and no special tools required. The bolts holding the calipers on are 12mm on the back and 14mm on the front. This is not a hard job.
steel,
Did you go with OEM pads or something else? |
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| steel |
| I used the Akebono ProACT ceramic pads for both front and back. Several people on this site have had good luck with them. I picked mine up from Tire Rack, you can read about them there. Good luck. |
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| phins2rt |
quote:
Originally posted by steel
I used the Akebono ProACT ceramic pads for both front and back. Several people on this site have had good luck with them. I picked mine up from Tire Rack, you can read about them there. Good luck.
Thanks! :29: |
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| LAN |
Hi,
I'm in the middle of changing rotors and pads. I'm just about finished the first front side brake set when I stopped because I didn't have the torque specs for the caliper mounting bolts. I've seen several non-MDX specific sites indicate about 65 ft-lbs. But on the MDX site its seems low that its showing 20ish ft-lbs. Is that the actual spec?
Let me know so I can wrap it up.
LAN |
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