| TroyJ |
| How many watt is the factory sub amp? Also, where is it located? Does it have RCA inputs or is a deck change required? |
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| emoss |
There are numerous threads on this. Just search for subwoofer, Infinity Speakers, etc. to uncover them... Many have replaced the factory sub with a Polk or other type with good results.
The subwoofer amp is a cigarette sized item positioned near the subwoofer, slightly forward of it. I believe that the figure tossed about is 50 watts for the amp, but I'm not 100% certain.
The factory sub has a "standard" Honda/Acura speaker connector.
Replacement subs have standard blade connectors, and you use a $6 Speaker wiring harness adapter (available from Best Buy's stereo install dept. or online sources) to connect a new sub to the factory connector.
Details here: http://www.acuramdx.org/forums/show...&threadid=10723
Are you planning to replace the sub ? |
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| TroyJ |
| yeah. I was hoping I could replace everything except the receiver. That looks to be a pain. Was thinking of going with an Image or Diamond 10" if the magnet will clear. :) |
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| mdx99 |
quote:
Originally posted by TroyJ
yeah. I was hoping I could replace everything except the receiver. That looks to be a pain. Was thinking of going with an Image or Diamond 10" if the magnet will clear. :)
Here is the subwoofer replacement link:
http://acuramdx.org/forums/showthre...&highlight=polk
Beware of the depth clearance, the polk GNX104 is 4 11/16" which works quite well with factory sub's location. For the touring edition, you need to grind down the 16ga./.25" male connector for one of the factory female connector cause it's thinner than the standard .25" connector. See the link above and good luck. |
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| TroyJ |
| That's awesome information. Thank you. :) |
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| SlvrMDX |
| The high end subs tend to be deep so finding a high end sub with shallow mounting depth is difficult. I ended up going with a JL 10W6. It's 4.875 in deep has dual 6 ohm voice coils and will handle 300 watts RMS. I'm powering it with an Xtant 301A and it sounds great. |
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| TroyJ |
| the w6 fits in the stock location? |
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| kudo |
| I got my Kicker CVR10 Sub with 5-7/16 mounting depth in the stock location by using a 3/4" adapter ring. |
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| gdot |
| What did you guys do to get the sub to sound good in the stock location? I have about 250 watts going to my Polk, but I can't get my aftermarket sub to sound decent back there. I couldn't hear much bass and there were way too many rattles. I eventually went with a small box. |
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| SlvrMDX |
TroyJ - I have the W6 in the stock location held in place by a 5/8 adapter ring w/ the stock grille. The new W6v2 (6.9 in mounting depth) will not fit but the original W6 or W6AE will fit just fine.
gdot - I sealed up every opening I could find then put a ton of Dynamat around the opening and enclosure with a bunch of polyfill jammed in there. No rattles even on low bass notes. Sounds good and I can feel the vibration through the drivers seat on some low notes. No audible rattles inside the car. Also, the 301A is supposed by be very conservatively rated at 300 watts RMS. I saw somewhere that actual RMS is more like 500. |
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| TroyJ |
| where do you have your amp mounted and how do you have it wired? Are you running stock mids and highs? Are there rca's going to the stock amp to the subwoofer? Thanks. :) |
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| SlvrMDX |
The amp is in the headrest storage area wired with 4 ga power from the battery. I tapped the low level lines to the sub amp with xtant HLA's. can be found here...
http://www.sounddomain.com/shoplist...erface+Adapters
I pulled the stock mids and tweets and replaced them w/ CDT CL62's. They were to deep to fit in the stock openings so I had to pull the door panels and trim the rain guards. The crossovers are mounted on the back side to the doorpanels towards the front. They are running off the stock amp but are still a huge improvement over stock.
My next projects are to add an amp for the mids and tweets then replace the rear speakers (probably w/ CDT CL-6X's), finally add a parametric eq. |
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