| Air Resonator removed today by a newbie... Zoom Zoom !!
- Click HERE for Original Thread
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| Northern_MDX |
Hi everyone:
My name is Kevin and although I just registered today I have been following this forum and learning a lot from all of you.
Just want to say hi to you guys.
Secondly, I would like to share my experience with removing
the air resonator box from my 2002 MDX.
(Thanks to EXCALIBUR, Manus1980 and other experts for your
advises and instructions :) )
Being a novice mechanic, it took me 5 hours for doing the job.
(I followed EXCALIBUR's instructions by removing the inner fender lining of driver side)
Is it worth it ? YES !!
Does my X sound better? YES ! especially >4000rpm
Does my X run faster ? Well, it runs just as faster but more responsive at 2000-3000rpm. It accelerates better. It's very apparent.
For those "Show-me-the-Dyno-result" and "Honda/Acura-engineers-would-have-done-that" fellow members, here are
my two observations:
1. The air intake funnel head of the resonator is positioned much
higher than the air entrance of the air filter box. I think my engine is sucking colder air than before.
2. The purpose of this resonator box should be no more than
dampen the noise.
I took many pictures and will share with you guys soon.
Shortly after I done the work, I even offered my wife a ride
to her work (and of course another ride to bring her back)
;) She was totally impressed with my offering.
Most of you should know that I just couldn't wait to test drive the X :D
My next step is to try out a real cold air intake designed for Honda Pilot. Currently I am still using the stock filter.
Nevertheless, now my X is definitely more fun to drive than before.
Cheers.:2: |
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| EXCALIBUR |
Northern_MDX,
Greetings and salutations. Good job. Removing the air resonator box is one of those "labor of love" projects that only involves your time. When it comes to our MDX, we got the time right? Keep us up to date on your future DIY projects.:29: |
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| Northern_MDX |
Thanks a lot, EXCALIBUR. I followed your instructions and it was a blast. :)
Here are the photos taken:
Turn the wheel all the way to the right.
Remove all the necessary nuts and bolts and fasteners.
Pulling out the inner fender liner.
Starting to dis-assemble the air filter box
Air filter box removed
It's easier if you remove the wheel then you can pull the resonator out.
Here is the bad boy. Not bad looking actually. But sorry, he has served his purpose :)
Cheers :2: |
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| Captain MDX |
| Welcome :). I have a question, can this be done in a 04 MDX?? It sounds good already but I want better respond :D, and uhh, I'm in Vancouver too :) |
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| crmsnidol |
If got forbid you drive through high water, does it get sucked right into your engine now?
Also, it may be too early to tell but has gas mileage been affected?
Thanks. |
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| Northern_MDX |
Captain MDX:
It's good to hear from you. I have been following your thread on
the rusty mdx, since I had the same problem. One trip up to Whistler (one week old MDX) and the day after we came back when
I tried to wash the underbody......:mad: :mad: ... major rust already
at most of the brake and some suspension joints.
Regarding your question on removing resonator on 04, as far as
I know from reading various forums, Acura didn't change the design.
You can certainly remove the air filter box and take a look (this is easier than removing the wheel wall liner or bumper).
Crmsnidol:
The air now is being sucked in from the port at the base of the air filter box. Based on the location of the box I would need to
submerge my whole front wheel before the water gets sucked into the filter box. I might need to worry about other things in that cases than hydro-locking my engine :D
I think it's pretty safe in 99.999% of the time on the road.
I would expect a drop in mpg since now I am really enjoying the faster throttle response and tend to rev the rpm higher.
Once I have a few tanks through I would let you know.
Cheers :2: |
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| EXCALIBUR |
crmsnidol,
Having removed the air resonator box, and reinstalling the fender liner, I have driven through rain storms and fairly deep puddles...never tried to ford a river or stream if that's what you mean. The engine compartment remains dry and water has never been sucked into the air filter...I have a Manus1980 CAI running in my MDX. Gas mileage remains about the same as before removing the air resonator box, but there is better throttle response. YMMV.:4: |
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| EXCALIBUR |
quote:
Originally posted by Captain MDX
Welcome :). I have a question, can this be done in a 04 MDX?? It sounds good already but I want better respond :D, and uhh, I'm in Vancouver too :)
Aye Captain, it should work just fine.:trustme: |
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| DaleB |
quote:
Originally posted by EXCALIBUR
crmsnidol,
Having removed the air resonator box, and reinstalling the fender liner, I have driven through rain storms and fairly deep puddles...never tried to ford a river or stream if that's what you mean. The engine compartment remains dry and water has never been sucked into the air filter...I have a Manus1980 CAI running in my MDX. Gas mileage remains about the same as before removing the air resonator box, but there is better throttle response. YMMV.:4:
If you just maintain the stock box and remove the lower resonator, there should be no problem. The intake is quite high.
When water starts reaching that level you might want to be packing a life preserver.
The real test would be the Manus or any other bumper level lower intake. If that does not take on water, I don't think you have a worry. |
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| Northern_MDX |
Before I purchase the cold air intake I am planning
to add a "L" shape PVC from homedepot under the
stock air intake box, pointing away from the engine
(and ventilation holes at the center of lower bumper).
This would extend the actual air intake lower than it is,
and hopefully the air the colder down there.
I spent some time to study the structure of the bumper and
area behind the fog light and I think it's pretty safe from the water.
I would like to experiment the Comptech type of intake for CL/TL
which has the "stock" filter box high but the air intake tube
extended low.
The gravity should prevent the water from coming up the tube.
This picture taken from the www.comptechusa.com
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| manus1980 |
| I want to take out the left fog lamp and create a funnel directly into the intake. Ram air |
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| EXCALIBUR |
quote:
Originally posted by Northern_MDX
Before I purchase the cold air intake I am planning
to add a "L" shape PVC from homedepot under the
stock air intake box, pointing away from the engine
(and ventilation holes at the center of lower bumper).
This would extend the actual air intake lower than it is,
and hopefully the air the colder down there.
I spent some time to study the structure of the bumper and
area behind the fog light and I think it's pretty safe from the water.
I would like to experiment the Comptech type of intake for CL/TL
which has the "stock" filter box high but the air intake tube
extended low.
The gravity should prevent the water from coming up the tube.
This picture taken from the www.comptechusa.com
Let us know what you come up with.:4: |
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| kimsta |
Northern_MDX or EXCALIBUR,
I was able to remove the first bolt connecting the resonator to the body of the X, but I was unable to get to the second bolt--the one that is located more inside toward the front bumper. Can you guys tell me how to get to that second bolt? Do I need to remove the front bumper?
Today was an unproductive day working on the X. I had to go to Sears twice to pick up the required tools, and now its dark. Oh well, I guess I'll finish it tommorow.
Any help is appreciated.
kimsta |
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| EXCALIBUR |
kimsta,
When I removed the air resonator box from my MDX, I did not have to remove the bumper. Either put your MDX up on jack stands and remove the left front tire, or crank your front wheels completely to the left. This will give you some working space under the left front fender. Remove the plastic connectors and peel back the left front inner fender liner. The two bolts holding the air resonator box to the body are 10 mm. You should be able to squeeze a socket wrench with an extension in there and free the bolts. Then, comes the hardest part. It takes a lot of time and patience to wiggle the air resonator box out through the space created by peeling back the left front inner fender liner...but it can be done. Hint: You may want to wear some cloth gloves to avoid cutting your fingers and knuckles when doing this project. Good luck.:29: |
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| CTPYHA |
quote:
Originally posted by Northern_MDX
Does my X sound better? YES ! especially >4000rpm
Does my X run faster ? Well, it runs just as faster but more responsive at 2000-3000rpm. It accelerates better. It's very apparent.
Can you please describe “better sound”? It is less noisy or what? I myself recently bought an X and it sounds loud to me when it’s over 3000 rpm. But I came from stick shift world and still getting use to transmission making my decisions on when to shift gears… :) |
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| kimsta |
EXCALIBUR,
I removed the entire inner fender liner and the front left wheel. I'm not sure if it was because it was getting dark but I had a tough time getting to the second 10mm bolt. There is barely any space in there to get to the second one. I'll try again tommorow with the socket wrench and extension.
I'll let you know how it goes.
Thanks. |
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| nyazai |
I did this procedure today, took me about 2 hours, but definately NOT for the non-mechanically inclined! Had to remove the wheel and the entire fender lining to get at it (Broke many of the plastic clips, didn't have the special tool, but they are cheap to replace). Also had to completely remove the air filter box (dropped one screw, it's gone forever! Luckily, the ones from the resonator are the same, so I used one of them!)
To get to that pesky front bolt, you have to lie under the car and squeeze your arm between the bumper and the resonator box, you can remove the lower bumper clips (2 are bolts) to help make more room, but you do NOT have to remove the bumper. You have to find the 10mm bolt blind, using a deep socket and a small palm ratchet finally worked for me. Put a shop light down into the space where the air filter box normally goes, it will help light the area.
Once you get it loose, you have to get it out of the hole! Remove the black plastic piece that sticks off the top of it (looks like the same piece sticking up off the hose going from the air filter box to the engine), and it will come right out. |
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| G. COLTON |
This is one of several threads that I have seen that people say they are getting "colder air" by lowering the intake. Does no one not know that in the summertime the closer to the road the intake is located that the air will be hotter. The road is a heat sink and takes in many callories and then releases same back into the air.
Actually in all practicality the gain or loss of a few tenths of a degree of temperature will not effect air density sufficiently to make any difference.
If you do the calculations of temperature vs air density you will see that it will take a change of at least 15 to 20 degrees have any noticable difference.
Or look at the plot http://users.wpi.edu/~ierardi/PDF/air_density_plot.PDF
You are working right around the elbow in the plot.
G |
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| renov8r |
GC:
First, let me say that I mostly agree with you, the tiny bit of difference in air temp is unlikely to have much effect on performance.
When the engineers from Honda or anyother reputable manufacturer decide what to put on/take off a vehicle before releasing it to production they do an extremely lenghty investigation of which compromises are going to make sense for the majority of drivers in the majority of conditions/situations.
The resonator, by itself, is unlikely to have any performance impact -- it is almost 100% to quiet down the intake air.
Having said that, I do think that there is slight chance that the reduced air-path that results from the removal of the resonator may result in dropping intake air temps when running at high speeds for extended periods and then dropping down to city speeds The underhood environment tends top get "heat soaked" in such conditions and the resonator could serve to heat the air. I would bet that any minor benefit the engineeers may have determined during such tests was overruled by the noise that would be present w/o the resonator.
Personally I will not be removing the resonator while the factory warranty is in effect, if ever. I have zero desire to make the vehicle louder.
I do think it is interesting to see others mod the MDX, and it may even help to increase the value of used MDXs.
It would be most enlighting to see more folks dyno their MDXs in staock & modified form -- I can recall only one such report severl months ago. |
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| nyazai |
So does it make it any faster or more responsive? Well, after a few hours of highway driving and some low speed takeoffs from stoplights, I am hapy to report...
I can't tell any difference in performance at all. It is a bit louder, but only at a very specific RPM range (aroung 4000), and the additional "growl" comes and goes fairly abruptly as you pass through 4,000 making it sound more like a defect, or hole in the intake manifold or something, than "sound" any faster.... Sorry, just my opinion. If it was worth the trouble (and I hadn't lost that stupid bolt) I would be putting it back on again today... Just my 2 cents worth, but thanks for the experience - it was kind of fun and didn't cost me anything. Maybe it was just wishful thinking, since I woud love to make it just a bit quicker. Guess there really is no such thing as cheap horsepower.
After the battery is disconnected for a while it is quite a bit better - until the engine management computer adjusts for better ecomony - is there a way to stop it from doing that (withought driving with a lead foot ALL the time??) |
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| DaleB |
quote:
Originally posted by nyazai
After the battery is disconnected for a while it is quite a bit better - until the engine management computer adjusts for better ecomony - is there a way to stop it from doing that (withought driving with a lead foot ALL the time??)
Most systems are adaptive. If you are a leadfoot I believe it will adjust accordingly after you continually repeat that pattern. You will probably notice harsher shifts also.
As a bonus, your mileage will go in the toilet for a while until it adjusts again for the more sedate driver.
Your only other option is to get on ebay and get a 'resistor' to fool the intake temp sensor into thinking air coming in is warmer, less dense and will cause the demand in fuel to increase, along with some increase in power. And the mileage will continue to go in the toilet. :)
An efficient engine is a 'happy' engine. Enjoy it! For what it is, the MDX is not a slouch when it comes to power. If you want more select a different vehicle. |
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