| mdxx3 |
| The front and sides were assembled to the main frame. Then it got trimmed/sanded to match the design plan. The height of the assembly is 1.75” (this is excluding the aluminum frame (other picture) which goes slightly above it). |
|
|
| mdxx3 |
| This picture is after the front part was painted. It's 90% black and 10% white paint mixture. The paintbrush stroke is horizontal to match the car stereo lines/texture. |
|
|
| mdxx3 |
| In this picture below, the light bar gets attached to the semi-transparent acrylic. The LEDs were glued in there prior to this. The wires are shown are next glued to the wood frame so that it stays put and routed to the appropriate place. |
|
|
| mdxx3 |
The picture below is with the major pieces installed. The light bar actually first got painted white to reflect the light, and then was painted black to match the other items there. The lower part of this light bar is of course transparent/open so that the light can escape and light up the parts (more info on this later).
There are 2 sets of wires here. The voltmeter gets power when the key is in the ignition. The Alesis gets power when the stereo amps are switched on via a relay.
Somewhere in there are two in-line resistors for the two LEDs, and these resistors are hidden in the heat shrink tubes. |
|
|
| mdxx3 |
| This is the controller/display mounting block. The old acrylic layer got removed and the gum/glue cleaned. I wanted something that looks a little more modern and not have the rounded folds like before. So a 1/4" layer of hardboard/MDF gets glued to the surface (this replaces the previous thick black acrylic piece). Then I routed out the rectangular area for the controller/display. Next I sanded the lower front area to get this new curved shape (which is different from before; otherwise it really looks similar to before). |
|
|
| mdxx3 |
| This block was next painted black on both/all sides. I guess I won’t try to change this piece any more... :) |
|
|
| mdxx3 |
| This is what the Picoverb looks like up-close in the dark. The words are tiny but it doesn't really matter since it's more like a set-and-forget item - don’t have to adjust it while driving. Even if I have to, I got the settings memorized already or can tell by listening. |
|
|
| mdxx3 |
The picture below is how it now looks like in the MDX. The voltage reading is with the motor off. The voltage display becomes dark/hidden when we remove the key from the ignition.
That's it, folks! |
|
|
| Warzau |
quote:
Originally posted by mdxx3
:hmmm: Thank you Mr Ryan for the compliments, but sorry you got banned.
I'm not! Im glad he got banned was being ass in another thread.
ANYWHO.
Beautiful install! |
|
|
| krblgc |
That's great!
Question though, is the Omnifi mounting block[the black wood] held in place there at the console? If you can only do a mounting block for me :12:
krblgc |
|
|
| hjjbruce |
Two words
Damn Nice!:D |
|
|
| jrtiger |
Mdxx3 excellent job! The curves on your latest mounting bezel are very nice and really blind in with the dash contours. My number one objective in terms of esthetics when I do projects like this is to make them look factory and in that area you really have it down to a fine science. I can only hope my install looks half as good as yours. Again great job and keep the new mods coming.
jrtiger |
|
|
| mdxx3 |
quote:
Originally posted by krblgc
That's great!
Question though, is the Omnifi mounting block[the black wood] held in place there at the console? If you can only do a mounting block for me :12:
krblgc
Hey Kirby, the block is held in place by friction and by its shape. The sides are pressed tight against the walls. Also it is tapered to match the area there. The bottom/underneath is curved to match the console area, and the top rear sits on 2 small blocks of wood inside. In the end it doesn't move at all. When I started this long ago, I was ready to pour glue in there but discovered it wasn't necessary. In fact each time when I try to take it out, I'll have to tug on it like it fused or kinda melted to with the interior trim and doesn't want to come out.
Heh heh... make a block for you....?? Oh man... that means I'll have to get back under the hot sun outside again!! :D |
|
|
| mdxx3 |
quote:
Originally posted by jrtiger
Mdxx3 excellent job! The curves on your latest mounting bezel are very nice and really blind in with the dash contours. My number one objective in terms of esthetics when I do projects like this is to make them look factory and in that area you really have it down to a fine science. I can only hope my install looks half as good as yours. Again great job and keep the new mods coming.
jrtiger
Hey Jrtiger... no... not fine science... just have to keep messing with it until it looks ok or fits nicely. It's really not too difficult but just takes a little time. Having a couple of basic power tools and CAD software helps. Come on... you can do it too - just use CAD software to start and then a sander to do what the CAD thing can't do:hmmm: Anyways, just hold the sander real tight so we don't have to look for bondo later. I guess that's the trick - hold it real tight, build it slowly and try fitting it in every couple of minutes, then everything falls into place like magic... |
|
|
| mdxx3 |
quote:
Originally posted by krblgc
Hey Phil,
Have you seen this?
http://www.scangauge.com/
It will give you more info.
krblgc
Uh no, Kirby... this is the first time I'm seeing it. It looks like a.... a roadside debugging tool??:D Ok, now I must find a place to inst.... |
|
|
| ChuckSchick |
As an amateur woodworker, let me say, Mdxx, you're very talented. Your mdf work looks like it comes off of a computerized milling machine. If you're routing those cut-outs free hand... dude.
I'm inspired to try this out... well, once these darn 90+ degree days cool down and I can stand getting into my shop. Gotta get some AC out there for next summer, but that's another story.
Anyhow, anyone using the Omnifi for mp3 audiobooks? Audiobook use is pretty particular.. a system has to have a rock solid "resume" or you spend all your time trying to find the place you left off. I've looked at the omnifi user manual online, and emailed support. They tell me that it does, but unless I hear from people actually using it, I'm dubious. I've been burned before. |
|
|
| ikkoku |
Great Mods... look OEM.
now back to more Modern Talking :P (from section 6 pic in the first page) |
|
|
| mdxx3 |
quote:
Originally posted by ChuckSchick
As an amateur woodworker, let me say, Mdxx, you're very talented. Your mdf work looks like it comes off of a computerized milling machine. If you're routing those cut-outs free hand... dude.
I'm inspired to try this out... well, once these darn 90+ degree days cool down and I can stand getting into my shop. Gotta get some AC out there for next summer, but that's another story.
Anyhow, anyone using the Omnifi for mp3 audiobooks? Audiobook use is pretty particular.. a system has to have a rock solid "resume" or you spend all your time trying to find the place you left off. I've looked at the omnifi user manual online, and emailed support. They tell me that it does, but unless I hear from people actually using it, I'm dubious. I've been burned before.
Hey Chuck, thanks for the compliments! LOL... computerized milling machine??! Sometimes I get surprised myself too when the thing turns out nicer than what I expected. My secret milling equipment... I use a basic/portable drill press setup with various rotary file/rasp attachments. Even the drill itself has to be attached/bolted to this portable press stand - so you can tell it's really a basic/cheap drill press!! Anyways this setup came in pretty useful on many of the MDF pieces. Sometimes a sander disc gets attached to that same drill and the entire thing is turned sideways or tilted at odd angles to become a fixed/stationary sander. This sander is for sanding larger surfaces or edges and not the tiny/detailed sections (use rotary file/rasp for small areas). Then our household robot aligns and moves the MDF piece against the sander or rasp/filer. Given enough time with correct programming there will be less pieces to discard. But this household robot here is just not user-friendly. It overheats occasionally, complains about too much work, needs rebooting, and takes way too many breaks -- I will not use this robot again and will have to put him back on ebay!!!:D
I don't play audiobooks, but it seems to resume properly for songs if we switch it (by ignition key) off and on. Also appears to resume properly when I press the off/on switch on the display/controller. I tried that experiment a little earlier today during lunch time and also noticed the time display may not always be correct. The time displayed at the bottom of the screen skips anywhere from none to 4 seconds (not accurate number on resume), but the song/audio restarts at the same place where it last stopped. Also there is this infamous issue after a wireless sync or attempting to wireless sync. It'll restart at the top level menu and you'll be terribly upset (read: no resume at all for this - starts all over again and you have to find/play a new/other track or try to dig thru in there to find the same one). There might be a way to override this - just turn off the wireless sync all together and use only local/USB sync.
There is also another problem with the Omnifi related to audio books... it doesn't have a fast forward/review feature and this will probably be a deal killer. It'll jump the beginning of the file or the next track when we press the back/forward buttons - no mid-track kind of searches... and audiobook files are probably very large and you'll probably miss a big part of the chapter or the entire chapter! I think some software people on the Yahoo Omnifi forum are working on adding this forward/review feature (not sure about their schedule - and don't hold me to it!!) These are 3rd party people/users (Omnifi fans), and not the Omnifi/Rockford factory people.
Summary is it's really not recommended for audio books, but great for music. Also maybe I should mention one has to be a computer expert to deal with the wireless network setup part (painful, but eventually it'll work). Good luck... |
|
|
| mdxx3 |
quote:
Originally posted by ikkoku
Great Mods... look OEM.
now back to more Modern Talking :P (from section 6 pic in the first page)
Hey Ikkoku... Looks OEM. Huh?? Not fancy enough?? :confused: Heh-heh... yes, that's right - I wanted it to kinda look like factory stuff so that I don't have to replace broken windows:) Hey... how did you know that's Modern Talking?? Oh wait.. the song titles are right there on the screen. I have all their albums... from their very first one until they quit, came back and continued until their very last album. Also have a couple more of their compilation/collection discs which puts it to maybe around 16, 17(?) or so different MT CDs. This MT happens to be my second largest collection of albums from the same artist/group here. Great... now somebody wants a picture of all these CDs.:1pat: The older discs are kinda rare around here (or anywhere these days) and most of the albums I have are German imports. (Some of you guys probably can guess which other artist/group happens to be one that I have the most...) |
|
|
| ikkoku |
I wish I could do such great work ... but alas, holding a hammer or saw is hazardous to my health :P
I used to be a big MT fan also... had a few of their cds (first 5?) all from asia... I have the compilation also. I still like the first album the best. |
|
|
| mdxx3 |
bump.
Here's a picture of the Optima D34 battery. Installed this many months ago. It fits/works just fine. The note/caution here is we'll have to be sure it's the type that has terminals at the top only (not the other D34 with 2 extra terminals at the side where there are two bumps at the top edge that will interfere with the factory/metal bracket). We also have to trim part of the plastic heatshield to the left side so that the cable can clear/reach the positive terminal. |
|
|
| mdxx3 |
P|B|C|M Section 1 of 20
The Omnifi DMP1 takes a long time to do a cold boot since it’s a computer. I finally got around to DIY a preboot control module for it. Now I can start to boot cycle for the DMP1 while walking towards the vehicle. Or any passenger can preboot it too by just opening any door (vehicle is not lock, ie. sitting in the garage). While loading stuff into the vehicle, it’ll continue to boot up. By the time I start the vehicle and turn on the stereo, it’ll be done booting and ready to play the tunes. |
|
|
| mdxx3 |
| Here’s a block diagram of the module... |
|
|
| mdxx3 |
The ~slightly complicated part is because the DMP1 actually has a built-in standby mode. The DMP1 is in this standby mode when we return to vehicle within 10 minutes – so, we’ll need to have the appropriate logic to not preboot it. This will be described more in the timing diagrams further below (section 15).
Below is a flowchart for the firmware. It’s basically a bunch of loops. Eventually it goes into the sleep mode to conserve power. I started with this flowchart attached below on what I wanted it to do, and later added some fuzzy logic in there (more about this in section 15).
When the PBCM is in the sleep mode, it’ll wake up via a high-priority interrupt as we unlock or open any door, or when we turn on the stereo.
The bitclock hardware also sets off a (low-priority) interrupt to increment the various time counters. This bitclock is switched off in the sleep mode to conserve power. |
|
|
| mdxx3 |
| Below is some general info on the power consumption of a DMP1 player (the DMP1 player itself and not this PBCM). It’s typically 6.2W when playing some tunes, and occasionally 7.2W or 7.7W. With this info, we know how much power is going thru the PCBM when the DMP1 is on (really not much power), but had to do these measurements as part of the analysis. |
|
|
| mdxx3 |
Below is how this PBCM is wired to the DMP1. This PBCM only controls the DMP1. It does not turn on the factory radio, amps or other accessories. The way I have it wired is the factory stereo (remote turn-on line) controls the amps/etc along with this PBCM, which in turn controls the DMP1. The main power to the DMP1 is online all the time (not a disconnect). It’s the “Ignition Switched +12V DC” line on the DMP1’s wiring box that gets asserted by this PBCM box.
The door/unlock signal is a line that’s normally high at 12V (only for some vehicles like the MDX). When we hit the unlock button on the remote, it drops to ground level. If we physically open any door, the same line/signal also falls to ground level. For this PBCM, we’ll use this signal (falling edge, interrupt) to indicate that somebody unlocked the door by remote or opened a door.
The right side diagram below is for future us in case I want to install a computer. (No feelings to add a computer at this moment, but I wanted this PBCM to be able to support it anyways.) |
|
|
| mdxx3 |
| The electrical design is straightforward even with all the required protection parts/components and even more parts for filtering. Everything fits on one page. There’s a pair of big diodes to forward the power and lots of bulk capacitors since I want the output voltage to be stable while cranking/starting the motor... the DMP1 continues to boot right thru until it’s ready. Signal/line debounce is done in hardware and also in firmware (both places). |
|
|
| mdxx3 |
| A mechanical assembly drawing is part of this DIY project... so we know which component fits where, etc. And we next use this mechanical info for the PCB design. |
|
|
| mdxx3 |
| Everything fits on a 2 layer PCB with the appropriate component arrangement. The power and ground planes are somewhere on the PCB too. Signals/traces are routed so that it has the least length. Power related lines are on the planes or have wide traces for current-carrying capability. |
|
|
| mdxx3 |
| The PCBs finally showed up... twice. The PCB supplier messed up the silkscreen (text didn’t stick on PCB). They couldn’t rework the silkscreen and made some new ones in the second batch. |
|
|
| mdxx3 |
| Below is just a picture of all the parts. Some parts showed up before the PCB design. This is so that I can measure the dimensions before designing the PCB. Some datasheets show the maximum dimensions that are larger than their actual components. By measuring it, I get to fit the components closer in this board while keeping their max dimensions in mind. |
|
|
| mdxx3 |
| As usual, the surface mount components have to be soldered down first. I used the string solder method here. |
|
|
| mdxx3 |
| Next... soldered all the thru-hole components. This of course is much easier than soldering the SMD parts. |
|
|
| mdxx3 |
| The firmware plays an important role in the project as it handles the I/O and also controls the hardware bitclock. The instructions take up about 673 words of memory space after compiling... which is really not much code. It’s an interrupt + polling type. The flow is shown in section 2 above. The firmware goes into a PIC 18F chip on the board. |
|
|
| mdxx3 |
Below is the DIP switch setting. It’s actually set to All Off for the configuration that I have here. Also the time parameters are shown on the right side table – more info on this time data will be described in section 15 later.
This DIP switch is only useful since this is a dual-function box (for DMP1 and also for an automotive PC). When in the PC setting, it not does have the fuzzy logic mode, and the time constants/numbers are different. If it was just to support the DMP1 alone, we wouldn’t need this DIP switch.
The time constants on the right-side are important because the entire PBCM box depends on these numbers. |
|
|
| mdxx3 |
This section is about the timing characteristics of the PBCM. This is going to be a long section...
< edit>
"Unlock" below means pressing the unlock button on the remote. Even if the vehicle's doors are already unlocked (vehicle sitting in the garage inside the house), we can also press unlock button on the remote and it will boot it up when necessary per the examples below.
< /edit>
Example A below is what happens when we unlock the door. It makes the RMT Out go high and this wakes the DMP1 and starts the boot process. The amount of time it stays high is depending on the DIP switch in section 14. If we unlock the door twice (or more times) or open more doors, the module ignores these subsequent clicks/opens since it has already started booting the DMP1 based on the first click.
Example B below is similar to A but we turn on the stereo soon after. Since the DMP1 has already booted up, it’ll immediately play the tunes.
Example C below is similar to B but we turn on the stereo while it’s booting up. Since it has already started to boot up while walking towards the vehicle, we can get to the music much faster than without this preboot module.
Example D below is like how we stop at the corner store, ATM, gas station or other places that take less than 8 minutes (480 seconds). Since the DMP1 is still in the sleep mode (music instantly available), this PBCM will not activate the RMT Out line (otherwise we’ll advance the play/music and lose 45 or 60 seconds of music). So, there are times like this when we do not want to activate the DMP1.
Example E below is a special case. If we return right after 8 minutes, it probably means we want to get to our music quickly. But if we don’t turn on the stereo within the remaining minutes/seconds (up to that 10 min/600sec max time), the DMP1 will fall into the off mode that takes a long time to boot up later. What this PBCM does here is it waits to the last few seconds of the 10 minutes and when we haven’t switched on the stereo... it will just auto-activate the RMT Out line for a few seconds. This keeps the DMP1 awake and not let it fall into the off mode. This is like a “stay warm” mode and music will be instantly available later.
Example F is different from all the previous examples. This one is about leaving the vehicle (not returning to it). After we get to the destination, we turn off the stereo and the motor. And we unlock the doors by switch or open any door(s). The PBCM logic will ignore these unlock/open signals here... it will not boot up the DMP1 here because we don’t want any more music (we’re leaving the vehicle!) We have up to 8 minutes (480 secs) to leave the vehicle. We actually have more than 480 seconds if the last door was already open before the 480 seconds. So... this PBCM does not keep trying to boot it if we have the doors open a long time – for example when we’re working/cleaning the vehicle and have various doors open for some time.
Example G is the legacy or pass-thru mode. The moment we turn on the stereo (asserted the ACC/RMT input line), the PBCM will set the RMT Out (output) line high. This is regardless of what mode the PBCM was previously in (sleep, standby, or etc)... the PCBM will automatically switch over into this mode. When driving down the road with the stereo on, this is the mode that the PBCM is actually in. (If we don’t want the DMP1 to be on, there’s always a power button on the DMP1’s faceplate that we can use to shut it.) |
|
|
| mdxx3 |
Below is a picture during tests. The blue LED is the one mentioned on the charts in section 15... Depending on what it’s doing, it’ll have a different blink pattern... this is so that we can see what it’s thinking/doing.
It’s easy to test the firmware here since the toggle switches are soldered right on the PCB. The two on-board test switches provide the door unlock/open input and also the ignition/remote turn-on input... they emulate the behavior of the wiring/signals in the vehicle for test purposes. |
|
|
| mdxx3 |
The tests went very well. The first version of the firmware was already working (correct logics/branches) the moment it was flashed in... have done enough simulations/debugging in software before flashing the code into the hardware. Later I fine-tuned a couple of parameters/numbers, and added the fuzzy logic feature. Everything works the way it’s supposed to and this is shown in the timing illustrations/diagrams in section 15 above.
Thermal tests results were super. The output was loaded to 16.5W and this PBCM itself didn’t break a sweat. The external test loads (big power resistors) were of course sweating and that’s normal. The weakest component in this module happens to be the LED – has a temperature rise of 3C/5.4F. No biggie... there are so many LEDs in the entire vehicle that will melt the same time if this LED actually melts. This PBCM is good for up to 82C/180F ambient temperature due to this LED (weakest item). Other components in there can survive 105C/221F thru 155C/311F, and none of them even got hot under load/tests.
Electrical and power consumption test results were very good too. This module sucks about 3.13 mA while in the sleep mode because some components in there can’t be turned off. It’s mostly due to the quiescent current (as expected) of the National Semi DC-DC chip. The range is 2.76 mA to 3.53 mA, but 3.13 mA is most typical/often. With a large 55AH car battery, the power consumption of this module is pretty much negligible - nothing that I’ll even worry about... it’s less than a car alarm module. There will also be many other factory things/modules in the vehicle that will drain many times more power than this PBCM in the sleep mode. During run time (usually with the motor on), the PBCM requires a little more power since the LED and other components are switched on. The external DMP1 and other components like amps also have different power requirements. |
|
|
| mdxx3 |
| I went thru a few iterations/variations of this label design in between various stages. Eventually I gave up and made this version the final one... because I had to slap something on the silver box to call this project done. |
|
|
| mdxx3 |
Flashing in the firmware is easy. It can be done on the work bench, on the kitchen counter, and even after the PBCM has been installed in the vehicle. Just hook up the USB programmer into the RJ12 port on the PBCM... and download the firmware.
I have the PBCM installed under the dash on the passenger side. It’s not visible from outside or while sitting inside. We actually have to search under the dash to find it. |
|
|
| mdxx3 |
| Another picture of the module here. It’s a DIY thing and there’s only one (not for sale). It has been installed and in use in the MDX for half a month. It works great! It lets me start the music quickly like a CD player. There’s no wait or less wait since we begin the DMP1’s boot cycle while walking towards the vehicle. Bye. |
|
|
| XStatic |
Very nice!
Not what I would call DIY, that is a professionally designed black box you have there! |
|
|
| mdxx3 |
XStatic. Thanks!
No, it's really a DIY. I had to keep moving my kid's pair of goldfishes from one kitchen counter to another every time I tried to do something. And then the boss was of course not happy because I kept messing up her kitchen! |
|
|
| ocuriel |
| Impressive work. Some of the best detailed work I have ever seen. |
|
|
| Warzau |
| Soo cool. Man I wish I had the technical skills to do something like you did. |
|
|
| mdxx3 |
| Hey Warzau. Ok, I'm cheating here... I'm actually a professional product developer. We make electronic equipment for companies that don't want or can't manufacture it themselves. So this type of hobby is easy. A hobby thing that I once did accidentally became a product for our various OEM customers and also spawned a wide range of new products (long story there). Anyways, back to hobby stuff... if you want to try, you can probably do some of these projects too. In the early 90's I saw somebody messing with a microcontroller and it looked pretty fun. So I bought a starter kit from a chip company and played with it (happens to be from Microchip Technology, along with their PIC 14 & 16 chips). Write some code to make an LED blink (hey, we all start the same way). Then add some switches/buttons. Within a few weeks we can learn a lot. Some demo/proto boards these days are already prewired with buttons and LEDs - easier to try/begin. One thing will lead to another and we'll get to make more fun toys. Bye. |
|
|
| Warzau |
| Well Id prob be one of those companies. The most I have done is solder those "radio" kits. BTW I think I missed the boat on the Omnifi never saw them again on woot. Those I seen so many Roombas I actually broke down and bought one :) |
|
|
| gmc74 |
quote:
Originally posted by Warzau
Well Id prob be one of those companies. The most I have done is solder those "radio" kits. BTW I think I missed the boat on the Omnifi never saw them again on woot. Those I seen so many Roombas I actually broke down and bought one :)
LOL those damn Roombas are on there once a week, it is hard not to get one, at least to hack it.
mdxx3, I bow to your geekness! I thought that I was one of the biggest geeks I know, but you beat me hands down!
Any new home automation toys? I am a junkie!
Nice work on all of this! |
|
|
| mdxx3 |
| Ok have you guys hacked your Roombas yet?? I need a modified one to chase my kid's puppy off the carpet into the kitchen/tiled area!! Geek stuff is always fun. But no - don't look at me - there're others out there with more amazing stuff. Some of them guys got Sun and Cisco stuff at home!! I wouldn't even know how to hook it up, or how to get it to work. But anyway there'll be many ways to do different (or similar) things and that's all fine ... that's how we all get along. Latest toy here is a Netgear N gigabit edition router. This is my 4th or 5th Netgear router. It's so new it's still in the box in the MDX... picked it up earlier today since it's on sale at Fry's. Soon my existing Mimo-G Netgear (the one with too many blue LEDs in a circle) will go over to my nephew's house a couple of blocks away. That's my recycling plan - they get all the free stuff (still very fast/good stuff, and some are brand new) but sometimes have to wait for me to upgrade/change something:)) |
|
|
|
