| mdxx3 |
This thread is pretty long.... so, here's an index...
Page 1: Initial install
Pages 2-3: More pictures
Page 4: Various discussions
Page 5: Rvehock's install
Page 6: Acrylic faceplate mount mod
Pages 7-8: Added Alesis sound processor and voltmeter
Page 9: Optima battery
Pages 9-10: P|B|C|M Preboot Control Module
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A few pictures that I posted on this thread may be old/obsolete, but I'll just leave it here...
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The original/first message of this thread begins here:
Section 1 of 14 - Various Parts
Here are some pictures/info on the Omnifi DMP1 that I recently installed. All I wanted in the beginning was an Acura CD changer. Then I was thinking of an MP3 CD changer. One thing led to another and it became this Omnifi DMP1 player and now I can really stuff a whole lot of songs into this jukebox. It's not portable and that's ok - I'm looking for a fixed device which is a CD changer replacement and this one made for the car.
The Rockford/Fosgate people make this Omnifi DMP1 and it supports both the MP3 and WMA formats. I used a PIE/DPX HON98-AUX to connect into the CD-changer port on the factory radio. It works perfectly well - no alternator/etc noise, and the input level is pretty high since it's a direct connection and the Omnifi puts out a high-enough voltage anyways. The D-Link DWL-121 wireless adapter is the one specially made for this Omnifi. Note that the wireless adapter is actually an option (not standard and not all people may want it anyways). Wiring everything is pretty easy.
The picture below shows the various parts of the system - all these pictures/parts below are from their websites. Missing in this picture are some cables/harnesses (well, not everything here can be wireless!) |
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| mdxx3 |
The picture below is what holds the faceplate. Before I started I was thinking of using solid wood and stain it but could never figure out the Acura wood/plood grain pattern. Never mind - there are some MDF boards leftover at home... therefore it will be MDF! I way trying different places in the MDX including above the inside rear view mirror but it just wasn't practical, so the faceplate/display has to go to the lower center part of the dash.
A template was first bolted to this MDF board and the rectangular opening was routed out. In the MDX, the area where this faceplate controller sits measured 30-degrees above the horizontal axis. So, the MDF board was next sliced at various related angles to match it. |
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| mdxx3 |
| The picture below is how it looks after it has been assembled and trimmed/sanded down. On the left-side below you may notice there is a bump on the horizontal surface above where the faceplate sits. This is intentional because it has to slide in and fit under the not-an-ashtray thing, and this not-an-ashtray compartment must be able to slide out after everything done. It slides out at a certain angle and that bump/step is to match it. In addition, there is a certain depth or length on this top surface because of two reasons. The first is to hide the inside wiring when people are sitting in the car and looking at it. The second is so that the top part can sit on the other MDF piece. This other MDF piece actually goes inside the center console first. It acts like a support frame for the faceplate/display piece. |
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| mdxx3 |
| The picture below is the final test fit after it was trimmed and sanded down. We can look inside the rectangular opening to see the other MDF support frame - that's what it's for. The opening in the middle is wide enough so that we can pass the faceplate/display and wiring thru it. |
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| mdxx3 |
| The picture below is with the carpet applied on the upper surface. These are leftover carpet from the recent subwoofer box project. I didn't want to drive around town to look for new leather or whatever wrappings anyways, and carpet was in stock - therefore, carpet it is! Maybe next time I may change it, but for now it's already nice enough to me. |
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| mdxx3 |
The picture below is when everything is up and running. The display is large so that we can easily read it. The controls/buttons are easy to use - can even find most buttons by feel without looking. All I do these days is to press the 4th button for genre, pick the genre with the knob, big select button on the knob and then hit the 7th button to shuffle it. During normal drives I don't even touch it other than the Next/Forward button if the song sucks and can do this without looking. The display is blue and the words/icon on the various buttons light up in red color at night.
The faceplate is removable for security reasons but I leave it in there all the time (like I'm going to walk around with a faceplate wherever I go!) Sometimes I just throw a small hand towel over it and people looking in from outside already can't see anything.
The wireless network setup is through this controller too. The Omnifi can get an IP address automatically from the wireless router but I decided that static IP is the way I wanted it to be with this Omnifi (it's a network setup habit). In my case I had to manually enter the SSID because my wireless access point is in the cloaked/stealth mode and this SSID info is not broadcasted. I also got the 128-bit WEP key entered in there for wireless security on this Omnifi. |
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| mdxx3 |
| The not-an-ashtray can still be used after all this since I store some stuff in there. As it slides out, it doesn't hit into anything. The 12V power port next to it of course can't be used since it swings down. That's ok since there's another 12V port inside the arm-rest compartment. |
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| mdxx3 |
The D-Link 802.11b wireless adapter is velcro'ed to the subwoofer box. Then this USB cable gets routed inside the floor panel to the main box in the rear storage compartment nearby. The last I checked, it was transmitting a little under 1 mbit/s from the house to the MDX. That's ok since it has to pass through a bunch of walls to get here. (There's a sticker mod on it but it didn't make it go any faster!)
They put a 3-hour limit/timer on the Omnifi so that it doesn't drain the car's battery (motor off) when it's running and transferring data wirelessly. It really doesn't use much battery anyways - it's the power amps that do that. The car key does not need to be in the ignition for the data transfer to occur. There is an RTC in the Omnifi that figures out when it's supposed to do the data transfer (like at 5 a.m. in the morning).
(The subwoofer box info can be found at http://www.acuramdx.org/forums/show...&threadid=19256 ) |
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| mdxx3 |
The picture below is somewhere inside the house. The left side of the picture shows the structured wiring panel with the metal cover removed/open. This panel and the extension on the right-side hold all the network and telco (PBX/VM/MOH) equipment that serves voice and distributes data to the entire house (usual star topology). These are a few small projects rolled into one large digital home project with CAT5E hardwiring for the network (not power-line or wireless network). I did this in Q4'03 and into Q1'04 after they finished building this house. There's also a custom designed PCB there that emulates a punch-down termination block with modular jacks which makes the wirings look easy and neat, and can be reconfigured easily.
The old Netgear router/firewall box (non-wireless type) was taken down and I put up this new Netgear wireless b/g router/firewall in late Q4'04 to transmit data to the Omnifi in the garage. I tried a parabolic reflector mod on the antenna early on but it didn't make a difference - so I took it out. Anyways, for additional security, the MAC address of the wireless D-Link adapter for the Omnifi is keyed in there (this is the only device that can access this router wirelessly). Other networked devices or computers at home are the wired type (no wireless other than this Omnifi).
One of these days, I'll dump one or both Pacific Bell SBC phone lines, and plug in a VOIP box there on this panel (easy when there's structured wiring but can certainly be done other ways too). |
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| mdxx3 |
The picture below is a mini server appliance. It's basically just another computer that got assigned to sit there full-time and move files when requested. It's a custom hand-made aluminum case/enclosure that I built in Q2'04. It's cut from aluminum sheets of various thicknesses and then put together, plus it has an acrylic/transparent top. Some vent holes are at the back and the bottom. It would have been faster/easier if I just go buy a pre-made case/enclosure but as usual I have to do it the difficult way since those didn't really have what I want (besides that, the mini-ITX people always make crazy/weird enclosures anyways). This appliance is a low-speed and low-power appliance because electricity becomes expensive if we have to leave it running all the time and besides that, it really doesn't need to be fast at all - it just needs to have a large disk storage space and can suck in or spit out data over the network cable and we're all happy.
The Omnifi software called SimpleCenter plus the audio/etc files sit on a 200 GB HDD hiding under the main board. This appliance runs on Windows 2000 Professional - it's an x86 box because the media server software requires Windows compatibility. Different software for my net-DVD/photo/music player also sits on this same server appliance (plays them on the TV/stereo in the family room). These two media software are actually background services unless we bring it to the foreground and do something with it. This small appliance sits in a corner in the home office/room (not on a coffee table like in the picture) and is accessed through the network or sometimes thru a KVM switch/setup for maintenance. |
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| mdxx3 |
The picture below is a screen shot of the SimpleCenter software that comes with the Omnifi. It has lots of features including editing the MP3 tags (multiple files at the same time). Otherwise it's just like any other media player with internet links to other music sites, and it's easy to use. It can be used to rip CDs but I use different software on another computer for this.
Somewhere in this software, we can click a "sync" button and it will download the files into the Omni's HDD cartridge if we have it plugged into the USB 2.0 port on the computer (much faster with a wired connection compared to wireless).
With this SimpleCenter software, we can set the time for it to automatically sync or download to the Omnifi in the MDX (a certain time each day, or each time the car arrives home, etc). Or we can disable all that and use a manual sync from the car.
If the HDD cartridge is already in the MDX, note that we cannot use the sync button on this SimpleCenter software to download data wirelessly into the MDX (because the Omnifi is fast asleep and saving the MDX's battery!) To do this, we have to go into the MDX, wake it up and select the sync function on the Omnifi control/display panel to force this sync or download. |
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| mdxx3 |
Back into the MDX's trunk... the picture below is an equipment rack or cover for the various stuff in the rear storage compartment. It's made of MDF and it's to hide all the cables/wires. Even though the wires are laid out appropriately, I just didn't want to see these wires or any open power/ground terminals on the amps.
There are some rectangular holes and this is for the amp/etc to peek out or expose the top surface. To make this, I just cut some MDF blocks and insert these MDF blocks (like legs or stands) at the open spaces around the amps/equipment. Then I used many small pieces of thick paper/card stock and trim each to match the openings around the equipment to become like a template. Then all these pieces of paper/card stock are taped together. When I lift it out, it becomes a large template. Put this template over the MDF board, pencil in the lines and cut from there. Then test fit it and trim/sand down another 1/8" so that the top surface carpet can roll over the edges into these rectangular/etc openings.
You already know this is coming... my every other project must have lights! So... four high-brightness LED/light bars were installed on this rack. The wires are routed to two spring terminals (ripped out from a small/AAA battery holder). All wires are neatly arranged and bonded/glued to this MDF rack. On the opposite side of this cover -- which is a wooden board where the various audio equipment are mounted -- there are 2 large screws for the matching electrical power and ground contacts. This other wooden board is actually hiding under the black-colored felt/carpet thing inside the storage compartment. Anyway, this MDF rack/cover can be lifted out without any wires dangling on it (same trick as the grill/cover for my IDQ12 sub in http://www.acuramdx.org/forums/show...&threadid=19256 ). |
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| mdxx3 |
The picture below is the HDD cartridge that plugs into the Omnifi. The cartridge fits on the right side of the storage compartment, and there's room to remove/insert this cartridge. Rockford/Omnifi made it a shock-mounted HDD cartridge since it's made for the car environment and people will be bumping loud with it. It actually looks like an old-school 8-track cartridge but there's a slim/notebook-type 20 GB Toshiba HDD inside there as standard. It can be modified and easily upgraded to a 60 or 80 GB drive, etc., but that will void the warranty. One of these days when those 80 GB drives get cheap-enough, I'll do it. The Omnifi's SimpleCenter software can support up to a maximum of 10,000 songs, and an 80 GB should be about the right size if we use the 256 or any high kbit/s recordings. The Omnifi will support up to 320kbit/s in case anyone care - those who at first couldn't get a flash-based portable MP3 player to play a high-kbits tune will definitely care and want to know! But so many bits is pretty much useless except for some music with extreme dynamic range (classical/new-age music) and it'll take a whole lot of disk space when we rip it with high bit count.
This HDD cartridge is actually a USB device and we'll have to use an AC power adapter (included) when we plug this cartridge into the computer at home via the provided USB cable. The Omnifi (main box) actually runs on Linux, and the HDD file system is FAT32 type. The firmware in there is also upgradeable using their software. |
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| mdxx3 |
| Here's a picture with everything in there with the lid/cover removed. One of these days I'll cut a large hole in the factory lid for a plexiglass or acrylic window. For now, they're all hiding in there. The Omnifi works great and sounds great. I'll recommend it for people who are audio enthusiasts looking for a CD changer replacement that can hold lots of MP3 tunes, and must also be network savvy if installing the wireless option. Without the wireless option, it works like regular CD-changer except it's MP3/HDD-based and it's made for the automotive environment. |
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| Warzau |
One word
NICE:eek: |
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| andreseng |
| Spectacular installation. Mind if I ask ~cost of the project? |
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| wing2299 |
| Very impressive. :4: |
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| phins2rt |
mdxx3,
:eek: Nice install!!!!:29: In both the X and your house!! |
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| mdxx3 |
.
.
Hey everybody, a big thanks for all the compliments!
.
quote:
Originally posted by andreseng
Spectacular installation. Mind if I ask ~cost of the project?
As for the cost...
The Omnifi DMP1 is $350 and the D-Link DWL-121 is $50, but the store gave me both items for $350 plus sales tax. Will be less elsewhere on the internet but that's ok - the local Paradyme store is my supplier of various audio toys. The IDQ12 in the MDX came from them too. Over the past dozen years, I got other stuff from them too but now I don't go there as often (less crazy about audio already!) But I still like this place.
The 2 pairs of blue lights (4 pieces) are from Pep Boys. It's way overpriced too but that's ok - it's off-the-shelf and the quality is pretty decent as it has a nicely diffused light output instead of multiple hot-spots from each LED. Well, you guys can tell how many other models I returned to the stores when doing the IDQ box last year:)
The 2 single-cell battery holders for electrical/spring contacts... about 59 or 69 cents each from Fry's plus tax.
Other parts like the wireless router... hey... you guys already know the Fry's, Best Buy or CompUSA kind of prices...
The PIE/DPX HON98-AUX adapter came from Logjam because nobody in town has it. It's $50 + shipping. Actually somebody in town had a PAC model for $100 or so, but that would be way too much for something like this.
The other MDF/wood, beige carpet, gray carpet, glue, various crimp terminals and solder stuff, etc are all leftover from other projects (scrap stuff - no commercial value here:)) |
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| Wazowski |
:6:
Very impressive! |
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| M1A2C2KaLi |
WOW
:fatyo:
lol nice install |
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| mdxx3 |
Hey guys, thanks!! :29:
Wanna see more random pics of everything or got tired/sick of them already?? :)
(If yes, gotta be later tonight or tomorrow 'cos it's on another computer.) |
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| andreseng |
| Bring 'em on brother! |
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| mdxx3 |
Ok... here goes... more random pictures..:)
Below is a picture during the construction before the drywalls went up. They builder gave us a bunch and we ordered more cables for some places in the house. After it was done, it still wasn't enough... I had to climb into the attic and dropped in more CAT5e, video and other cables (painful thing to do, but luckily didn't fall thru the ceiling). The right side picture below is the frame to hold the giant Leviton panel plus all those telco/network equipment. |
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| mdxx3 |
| Here's the patch panel where all the network and telco plugs into and data/voice gets distributed to 16 places throughout the house. I sure have weird hobbies. I had to do the circuit and PCB layout, etc. The manufacturing of the metal frame and PCB were outsourced. Then assembled in-house. It's a double-sided PCB (same price as single-sided for protos anyways). Nothing really special and it works great (otherwise there won't be internet access here and the phones won't work...) |
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| mdxx3 |
| This picture was while making the enclosure for the server appliance. All done at home - had to cut and file the aluminum sheets plus drill all the holes plus more filing and sanding. It was something like 1/8" and 3/16" thick (approx., not exactly) depending on where that piece went. The big-ass screwdriver in the picture is so that the small thing looks even smaller!:) Not too difficult to design and fabricate, but it's just time consuming and it's a fun thing to do for people that like custom projects. |
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| mdxx3 |
| While on the subject of computers, this is my latest general-purpose workstation (not a gaming machine). Finished building it recently, and it's already obsolete! (Replacing something else that's even more obsolete!!) It's much faster than the appliance server, and it's for ripping A/V stuff plus everything else. Then dump the data on to the server appliance for distribution throughout the house. This Cavalier enclosure is from Cooler Master and not GM/Chevy:) The blue lights are required for overclocking the computer...(??) |
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| mdxx3 |
| This is display/faceplate for the Omnifi. In the picture you can see it sitting on a towel. I was trying to figure out a good angle to put it. Then drove around for a day or two, and the angle/position shown in this picture didn't work as good. I had to point up more, which is how I finally mounted it (other picture early on in this thread). While sitting in the garage, this angle (picture below) actually worked fine but when driving around it wasn't as good. The idea here is always to test drive it before making a final placement. |
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| mdxx3 |
| This is the trunk area while I was making an equipment cover (to cover all the cables/etc). First to do is to determine the height of the wood block and to cut several long pieces. The height of each block has to be where we want the final surface to be, and then we deduct the thickness of both the top-layer carpet and hardboard/MDF cover. Then find the suitable locations in there and cut each down to the appropriate size... and stuff it all in there. These wood blocks are basically the "legs" or stands that hold the equipment rack cover. The only caution here is to make sure the inside surface clears or does not touch the stuff in there like cables, terminals/connectors, relay, and other parts. |
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| mdxx3 |
| While those wood blocks are in there, now is the time to literally cut and paste stuff. This is using some card stock material, and it happens to be a Toyota catalog because it's nice and thick paper/card stock! First cut a rectangular hole/opening for the equipment. Then on another paper/card, cut another hole for the next equipment. Do for all parts/equipment, add more card/paper out towards the edges/sides. While at it, we'll have to paste/tape them together and it becomes a large/giant template of how the top surface is supposed to be. |
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| mdxx3 |
| Using the template from above, we put it over a large MDF/hardboard and pencil/draw the outlines/openings and slightly oversize these inside openings. Then we cut out the rectangular holes and it'll become the new cover (picture below). Now we'll use the actual amp/parts/etc itself that are already bolted in there (not the previous cut lines) as a physical guide and pencil in some additional gap lines. I used a 1/8" gap since this is the thickness of the carpet. This gap provides a clearance for the carpet to roll around the edge into each opening. |
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| mdxx3 |
| Now is the tricky part that requires some care (else it'll step over the cables/etc in there and they're all nearby). One by one, we'll have to determine each block's distance relative to a nearby rectangular hole, wall or reference point. Then glue it down to this larger piece. Have to clamp it while the glue dries. Eventually it'll look like something in the picture below. |
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| mdxx3 |
| This is the long strip where the LEDs/light-bars mount. It's actually angled slightly downwards because we want the lights to point down on the equipment. There's actually a top edge there to hide the LEDs/light-bars from view when we're standing outside the MDX and looking down at everything. |
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| mdxx3 |
| The wires for the LEDs/light-bars are actually recessed into the wood/MDF at certain places - have to cut some grooves for each cable. Then the cables were glued/bonded to the MDF so that they'll stay put and be recessed to protect the cable as this outside surface (wood/MDF) is touching the trim panel inside the rear storage compartment. |
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| mdxx3 |
| Here's a picture taken in the dark. One of these days I'll cut a hole in the factory lid that covers everything in there (install an acrylic/transparent window - it'll be another weekend another project). Hope you guys enjoyed reading this. Bye. |
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| andreseng |
quote:
Originally posted by mdxx3
Here's a picture taken in the dark. One of these days I'll cut a hole in the factory lid that covers everything in there (install an acrylic/transparent window - it'll be another weekend another project). Hope you guys enjoyed reading this. Bye.
No doubt! Again, awesome job.:claphead: |
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| mdxx3 |
| Hey guys, thanks! :29: |
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| XStatic |
| I guess I will be installing an OmniFi in the X soon, just ordered DMS1/DMP1 package from woot.com for $199! |
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| mdxx3 |
Nice!! That's a fantastic price for both the home and car boxes plus the network adapters. Glad to hear you ordered them! :29:
The car jukebox was at one time $600 or $700 (list price at first intro) and then listed at $350 last year when I got mine, and it became listed at $300 earlier this year ($250 on-line at Crutchfield when I saw it two weeks ago). Those list prices are for the DMP1 alone and without the wireless option which is another $50 to $80 at different times. The price keeps falling like computer prices because it's like one. The car box uses a 32-bit RISC processor at 90 MHz (ARM7 core) and runs on a Linux kernal.
Maybe I should get a second set because a few weeks ago my wife told me she wants one too. But maybe I'm not going to tell her about it now as it'll be too much work since her car doesn't have much space to put the display module. There'll always be a way but it'll be messy since the open place I have in mind will be above the inside rear-view mirror. Or next year or whenever I get to it, I'll give her mine and put in their future model (not released yet).
You may want to double check or update the firmware to the latest ver x.x.315. I did this recently and it's definitely better than the one that it came with. It solved some song start-up quirks. Also the new firmware makes the controller/display responds faster than the old firmware (songs come up faster and less boot time too - sometimes instant on too when it's in the sleep mode instead of a cold boot cycle). This firmware has to be updated manually - click somewhere in the SimpleCenter software and then plug the cartridge into the car with the motor already running (they have the procedure on their site).
The SimpleCenter software itself (for PC) will probably be auto-updated right after you have finished installing it from their CD. It'll go right out to their website and auto download/install the newest version. It'll be like installing the software twice on the same day. Not too bad, but it's a very big file to download. When we look in the HDD (it's a USB HDD), the music files are actually not in the mp3 format but whatever they decided to use. The SimpleCenter software changes it to something else when it syncs/downloads. So if anybody steals my cartridge, they'll have to go thru some trouble to decode it or convert it back to the common MP3 format.
The Omnifi is a very nice box. The sound quality is great. Earlier tonight I just dumped another 2.5 GB (via USB) worth of music on to the HDD. These days my new music CDs get ripped right away and then get on to the HDD (basically don't play CD's anymore but play the ripped versions only). From my old music collection, I still have more discs to rip (will slowly get to it).
Good wishes on your install! (Post pictures too please!) |
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| Warzau |
| Has anyone upgrade the HD in the case? Also can you use a G instead of the B? |
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| mdxx3 |
Some people out there have hacked the cartridge and put in a 40, 60 or 80 GB HDD. They have a compatibility list on a website and not all hard drives will work in there. Some people reported that they damaged the cartridge while they were disassembling it.
As for the wireless G adapter, it seems it cannot be done because of 2 reasons. The first reason is the firmware/software (linux kernal and drivers) is coded for that particular chipset that's in the matching wireless adapter. It's a small operating system and it doesn't have drivers for other/different chipsets. We can change to other adapters but it unfortunately has to have the same chipset in the adapter that they supply/recommend (a few out there). They claim this one for the Omnifi has an extended range compared to the ones typically found in the computer stores. The second issue is the USB controller inside the main box is the 1.1 type and the G will already be faster than this USB 1.1 speed. I read they said the future model will be a G type (but that'll also be a $600 or $700 box with 2.0 ports). (I know the current HDD is indeed a USB 2.0 type when it's plugged into the PC, but I think it might drop to 1.1 if it's plugged into the car's box.) |
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| Warzau |
| Thanks I am so tempted to get it from WOOT but their return policies scare me. If it doesnt work I would have to go to RF for a warranty if they don't honor it I have to email woot for a refund. I wonder if using my AMEX would help in that situation. BTW does it have RCA connection. I have a blitzsafe and have my alpine cd changer and a pany DVD hooked up and I have one more avail input. Don't want to have to change out the radio adapter if not needed. |
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| mdxx3 |
They only provide the RCA-type line-level outputs - so, I think you're ok here with your Blitzsafe. I believe it's a 4V-pp max output (after all it's a car audio gear and they do it this way, ie. not the 0.5 or 1V type with portable players). There's no volume control on this Omnifi - it'll be on full blast (line drive) or actually depending on the MP3/WMA "recording" level. The input level is actually higher/louder than the factory radio/CD (but still ok on mine - no clipping or distortion, but just less turn on the radio knob to crank it up).
But I guess it's already sold out from the other thread/message. At Crutchfield it'll cost more and the DWL-121 is extra/separate. Now if they get more stock on woot.com, then... |
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| Warzau |
| Thanks for the reply though I liked the package it just didnt fit at this point and time. Either build new computer of the wifi. I guess I will have to make due with the alpine for right now :) thanks!! |
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| MDXtrous |
Wow!! I thought I was a gadget-geek, I see someone truly beating me in this respect.
Do you have Media Center 2005 installed in your PC? Just thought it would go along the lines with your all-in-one, access to everything theme. |
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| mdxx3 |
Noooo... I still think you have more gadgets than I do!! All I have is an MP3 jukebox in the MDX because it seems these days this is the way to go. I have another 3.1 GB of songs ready-to-dump on to the Omnifi 8-track cartridge later tonight (via USB 2.0 - not going to try wireless with this much data).
I do not have Media Center 2005 on any machines here yet. Mostly because I'm so cheap and still waiting for somebody to give me a free copy! Actually all my Windows are free from Microsoft since I'm in this industry (flew to Redmond too many times already for different stuff/events and they have nice parting gifts). Anyways, the tiny server appliance is using Windows 2000 Pro SP4 (small, fast and robust) and my newest 3.4ES PC is XP Pro SP2. The PC and server appliance are both in the home office upstairs. I'll certainly get the MCE 2005 if it's for the family room media PC but I don't have a computer there (or at least not yet). I just use a SonicBlue/GoVideo net DVD player there now and it streams photos/music/videos down from the appliance server; else it functions as a regular disc-based DVD player (actually, this player belongs to our 2 year old kid - we need his aproval before we can watch anything else other than kids' DVDs:mad: ) |
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| pusilon |
Just what I was looking for !
:2:
mdxx3, how did you run the connections from the front all the way to the back? I'm kinda scared of damaging the interior (this is my first luxury car ).:( |
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| mdxx3 |
The good news is there's only one cable from the front to the rear. It looks like a DIN cable with a bunch of conductors in there (typical CD changer kind of cable). If you have some done similar stuff before on other vehicles, it should be pretty easy. Don't worry that it's a luxury car. I just call it another car - another project. But I just had to be careful since it's my own car, and you'll definitely do the same when you're working on yours there. Start from the middle at the passenger-side B-pillar area behind/under the trims/carpet and feed the DIN cable towards the rear. Later continue from this B-pillar towards the front and the cable ends under the lower dash area.
Probably the most difficult part is to squeeze or fish the DIN cable behind the large rear-quarter trim panel. The good news is this large rear-quarter trim panel does not need to be removed (that will be way too much work!). All we do is remove a few screws plus a little more. Some screws are hidden, like on the cargo net hook or inside the cargo/tonneau attachment areas. Then pry the top part of this rear quarter trim panel out a little at various places along the top - just open it a little enough to squeeze the DIN cable inside. I used a coat hanger wire with DIN cable/connector taped to this wire and feed it thru behind this large trim panel. Aim it towards the factory subwoofer opening area and pick it up from here. The DIN cable actually runs in front of the metal/body that subwoofer bolts on to (it is not going into or inside the subwoofer cavity). Just have to look around there to find a gap where the DIN cable will not get squished. Then continue to feed it to the rear near the tail-lights and then route it the other way into the storage compartment via a large grommet that's already there. That DIN cable actually comes in thru the back part of the storage compartment. There's no need to drill any new holes or cut any metal either. (EDIT: no holes to drill into the car body, but need some to mount the main box or display). The plastic trim at the back part of the storage compartment has to be modified/trimmed so that the cable can go into this storage compartment (without getting squished).
From the front, we can tap the power, etc, from behind the radio. I didn't have to remove the factory radio either (talk about an easy install; but of course I was cussing along the way like all the other projects:D It's standard procedure:)). Going by memory after I read it before on this forum, I removed the Not An Ashtray and the DC power port, followed by a trim panel inside that area. Then reached behind the radio (from under it) to unhook the radio's harness to tap the wires for the power/etc to junction box on the Omnifi. Also plugged in the AUX-in adapter the same way (from under the radio; feel/find the open port and plug it right in). There's a medium sized bolt visible in there that I used for the Omnifi's ground (common ground for the radio/something there). The PIE/DPX module goes inside there too - hidden in the dash near the radio. (Sorry but I didn't take any photos on the cable install.)
We will need more/longer cables than the ones that came with the Omnifi (those 14 or 16 gauge cables on the junction box), but the DIN cable is long enough or about the right length. There are definitely more cables/wires at the front/dash area that we have to deal with but only one DIN cable going to the rear. The (other) DIN cable from the faceplate/display goes towards the side and then behind the carpet under the dash to meet the main DIN cable at that junction box. My Omnifi's junction box is approximately where the passenger's right foot will go (it's tied to the other harnesses under the dash).
If you have done some car audio stuff before, then just go for it... Good luck. If you have any questions, just holler. |
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| mosing |
mdxx3,
Cool install!!! I'll soon attemp my own install. My question is about the "wiring adapter" that comes with the DMP1 package...
1. Is the junction box you talked about the same as the wiring box?
2. On one side of the wiring box is where all the power connection wires are (other side are RCA, and DIN), and they are color coded with yellow (constant 12v), orange (lighting switch terminal), red (ignition 12v), and black (ground). Were all these wires easily tapped off the back of the back of the radio? I'm wondering if it's easier to tap off the fuse box.
I haven't fully thought out the wiring connections yet, but hopufully this will give me a good start.
Thanks for the help. |
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| mdxx3 |
Thanks for the compliments. Wow.. another person with an Omnifi :29:
Yes, the junction box is the same as the wiring box/adapter.
All four wires can easily be tapped from the back of the radio on the main harness. But for the ground wire, I used a bolt near there (I didn't want to mess with the ground wire on the main factory harness).
Actually coming to think about it, I may rewire the switched/ignition wire one of these days (the red wire on the Omnifi's wiring box). The reason is now I have to independently switch this Omnifi on or off each time. (This extra wire is from a relay that switches the amps/lights on in the trunk. The wire is already there:))
Have fun installing/wiring yours. Not too difficult. Just a couple of hours (or one weekend) and it's done. |
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| pusilon |
Just as I received my package from woot, my excitement was suddenly shot down when I recieved an email from Logjams Electronics Tech support saying quote:
I'm sorry but there are no adapters or interfaces that we know of that are compatible with the '05 MDX with 6-disc in-dash CD and navigation. Sorry.
Darn it, does anyone know how to interface with the 05 stock 6-disc in-dash CD player with Nav?
Otherwise, I may have to go with the FM modulator which may suck big time on the sound quality. :( |
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| mdxx3 |
Pusilon,
Maybe might try to email the PIE factory questions@pie.net. A person there once mentioned there is a HON03/PC-SON(AUX) part that they confirmed works with the 05 MDX, but did not say if it's with navi or non-navi, with 6-disc indash or otherwise (or if it matters). Also it appears this part number is for a Sony changer but if we ignore the Sony part (double check with them if this is ok), there is an Aux/RCA-type input on it that may be used for the Omnifi (if we get pass the other issues/questions, or if there's an open port at the back of your 05 factory radio that's compatible). Mine's an 04 MDX and while asking them last year, they somehow mentioned that HON03/PC-SON(AUX) model to me as a side/extra info. They were basically happy they got something to work with the 05 MDX but I didn't ask more on it then. Good luck. |
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| XStatic |
quote:
Originally posted by pusilon
Just as I received my package from woot, my excitement was suddenly shot down when I recieved an email from Logjams Electronics Tech support saying
Darn it, does anyone know how to interface with the 05 stock 6-disc in-dash CD player with Nav?
Otherwise, I may have to go with the FM modulator which may suck big time on the sound quality. :(
I got the same reply RE: 03 stock 6-disk indash with Nav. |
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| Spacebird |
Very nice install. I hope I can pull off something remotely similar, though definitely less cool...
Question: Are you running a wireless B or G setup in your house? I've got a G setup (the D-Link DI-624) and I can't get the OmniFi to connect to it. |
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| anjan |
quote:
Originally posted by pusilon
Just as I received my package from woot, my excitement was suddenly shot down when I recieved an email from Logjams Electronics Tech support saying
Darn it, does anyone know how to interface with the 05 stock 6-disc in-dash CD player with Nav?
Otherwise, I may have to go with the FM modulator which may suck big time on the sound quality. :(
I have my iPod connected to the Aux input in the back, assuming you have the RES as well. I'm in heaven right about now :D What a difference from the crappy FM transmitter! |
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| andreseng |
quote:
Originally posted by Spacebird
Question: Are you running a wireless B or G setup in your house? I've got a G setup (the D-Link DI-624) and I can't get the OmniFi to connect to it.
Omni Fi is B. You need to go into your settings on the DI-624 and change them to allow Both B & G. That router is fully capable of doing both. Although you may find when B is in use that it slows down your network some. |
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| dj-mdx2 |
quote:
Originally posted by mdxx3
Here's a picture with everything in there with the lid/cover removed.
Nice setup. You sure you don't work for "Pimp My Ride"? :2: |
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| mdxx3 |
quote:
Originally posted by Spacebird
Very nice install. I hope I can pull off something remotely similar, though definitely less cool...
Question: Are you running a wireless B or G setup in your house? I've got a G setup (the D-Link DI-624) and I can't get the OmniFi to connect to it.
I don't have any wireless stuff at home other than the Omnifi in the MDX (everything else is on wires). The Netgear wireless router is set to auto-B/G mode and the Omnifi is a B type. (If it wasn't for this Omnifi, I still won't have a wireless router!;))
(Sorry for the delay in replying. I just got back into town today.) |
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| mdxx3 |
quote:
Originally posted by dj-mdx2
Nice setup. You sure you don't work for "Pimp My Ride"? :2:
No, they don't want me (they said I work too slowly!!) :2: |
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| rvehock |
| Took awhile but I finally installed my Omnifi system in my X this weekend. Special thanks to mdxx3 for posting such great instructions, it made my install alot easier. It is an awesome system and I now have almost filled the entire drive with my music collection. Not real thrilled with the SimpleCenter software that came with the Omnifi but I was not that thrilled about itunes either. The wireless works great from my router (Linksys) to the garage with very good signal quiality. I now need to finish setting up my Omnifi Home Media Digital Streamer for my home stereo setup. |
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| rvehock |
| Still Another Pic |
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| andreseng |
quote:
Originally posted by rvehock
Another Pic
Hey rvehock-
Are you trying to start another Camel Toe thread??? :eek:
:2: |
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| mdxx3 |
Hey rvehock, good job! :29:
(I guess we're all the same - we like to work barefoot, huh?!! :D) |
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| rvehock |
quote:
Originally posted by mdxx3
Hey rvehock, good job! :29:
(I guess we're all the same - we like to work barefoot, huh?!! :D)
Living in Florida makes barefoot possible year round:4: :4: |
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| mdxx3 |
I did two mods on the Omnifi last Saturday. The first mod was making a pair of attenuating plugs (RCA-type thing) so that the audio output level matches the in-dash CD player's level. Before this, the Omnifi was screaming real loudly into the aux-in port on the factory radio.
The second mod is the HDD. Now there's an 80 GB HDD in there so that I can dump more tunes into it. Before this I ran out of disk space and had to unselect some songs via the Omnifi's SimpleCenter software. Got this WD800VE 5400 rpm drive at a very good price from the WD factory. It was on a special promotion for certain people; would have been a free drive if I took the 40GB/2MB version, but a little extra for the 80GB/8MB upgrade. I guess there should be plenty of disk space for the next few years:-| |
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| pusilon |
Gawd, I envy you people.
I'm still waiting for the AUX adaptor.
I already emailed pie.net and somebody answered that Acura changed the layout of the AUX connector for the 05.
I also called the dealership and the guy still hasn't called me yet to answer the question.
Really sux, now my DMP1 is sitting here collecting dust. |
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| rvehock |
quote:
Originally posted by pusilon
Gawd, I envy you people.
I'm still waiting for the AUX adaptor.
I already emailed pie.net and somebody answered that Acura changed the layout of the AUX connector for the 05.
I also called the dealership and the guy still hasn't called me yet to answer the question.
Really sux, now my DMP1 is sitting here collecting dust.
The wait will still be worth it, I love this thing. I got the DMS1 with a wireless adapter now completely setup with my home media setup and it is just as cool as the setup in my X. Now I need an 80Gb HD as my 20Gb is already full :eek: :eek: :eek: :eek: :eek: :eek: |
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| rvehock |
quote:
Originally posted by mdxx3
I did two mods on the Omnifi last Saturday. The first mod was making a pair of attenuating plugs (RCA-type thing) so that the audio output level matches the in-dash CD player's level. Before this, the Omnifi was screaming real loudly into the aux-in port on the factory radio.
The second mod is the HDD. Now there's an 80 GB HDD in there so that I can dump more tunes into it. Before this I ran out of disk space and had to unselect some songs via the Omnifi's SimpleCenter software. Got this WD800VE 5400 rpm drive at a very good price from the WD factory. It was on a special promotion for certain people; would have been a free drive if I took the 40GB/2MB version, but a little extra for the 80GB/8MB upgrade. I guess there should be plenty of disk space for the next few years:-|
Here is a good page for more specifics of the hard drive swap:
http://members.cox.net/techfire/omn.../harddrive.html |
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| XStatic |
quote:
Originally posted by mdxx3
I did two mods on the Omnifi last Saturday. The first mod was making a pair of attenuating plugs (RCA-type thing) so that the audio output level matches the in-dash CD player's level. Before this, the Omnifi was screaming real loudly into the aux-in port on the factory radio.
Isn't there a menu item on the DMP to adjust the output level?
quote:
Originally posted by mdxx3
The second mod is the HDD. Now there's an 80 GB HDD in there so that I can dump more tunes into it. Before this I ran out of disk space and had to unselect some songs via the Omnifi's SimpleCenter software. Got this WD800VE 5400 rpm drive at a very good price from the WD factory. It was on a special promotion for certain people; would have been a free drive if I took the 40GB/2MB version, but a little extra for the 80GB/8MB upgrade. I guess there should be plenty of disk space for the next few years:-|
Any details on how we can get a great deal on a drive? |
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| mdxx3 |
quote:
Originally posted by XStatic
Isn't there a menu item on the DMP to adjust the output level?
Any details on how we can get a great deal on a drive?
There isn't a menu item on the DMP to adjust the output level. It's a fixed line-level output and it's quite high -- maybe somewhere around 3V RMS or 4V peak. I just halved it with these custom plugs and it's much better (it's just a voltage divider circuit hiding inside one end of the RCA-type connector).
I just looked in the WD literature again and that special offer actually expired yesterday (Mar 31). About 2 weeks ago, their marketing dept people sent me this big box/package with a fake (cardboard) laptop in there and a fake/demo HDD sample, and gave the weblink to go claim the real one. Also, I just tried but that special web page has already been removed from that WD site. |
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