| ROTORRAY |
Today I changed my ATF fluid and it was a no-brainer. Pleasanton Acura wanted $70 for a 3 quart change. Livermore Honda had a coupon for a flush and fill for $136 but they wouldn't do my MDX. I did it myself and I bought 3 quarts of ATF (Livermore Honda $4.80/quart, Pleasanton Acura $5.10/quart. Bought a 6 point 17mm socket ($1.98) and it was a "1" on a scale of "1 to 10." My 3/8" ratchet wouldn't crack the filler plug so I used my torque wrench with its longer handle and, voilla, it worked. Job took 20 mins and no hassles.
Re: Mileage.
Last weekend my wife and I went to Reno. 400 feet to 8500 feet. Got 23 MPG on the way up and 28 MPG on the way home. This is understandable considering it's all down hill.
Re: Maintenance costs
Acura is not, in my opinion, a "luxury" vehicle. This has been discussed many times on this site. I refer to it more as a Honda on MINOR steroids. Why Acura changes so much to work on it is a mystery, but that's today's world. I recommend that everyone purchase the service manual for their respective vehicle and do as much as you can yourself. These are mass-produced vehicles. they have to be easy to put together. You can do it, it just takes a little time.
Oils:
I use Castrol Syntex but will be going to Mobil 1 shortly. Vehicle has 20K on it at the moment. Syntex is fine but they don't say what percentage is synthetic vs. dino oil. I just like the added protection of the synthetic. I think that if your oil has the ASA symbol on it you are in good stead.
I'm a retired helicopter pilot/flight instructor so I understand the importance of regular maintenance. You cannot over maintain, especially when fluid changes are concerned. Definitely cheap insurance.
My MDX is a 2003 with Touring, DVD, and all the goodies. My wife drives it mainly and my ride is a 2004 Honda S2000.
I enjoy everyone's comments on this site. keep up the good work! |
|
|
| G. COLTON |
| Morning Rotoray. Which Castrol do you use? They have two choices, the full synthetic which I have used for many years and a second that is not full synthetic. |
|
|
| ROTORRAY |
I've been using Castrol "Blend." As I said, though, none of the blends specify how much synthetic is mixed with their dino oil. In the past I have added a quart of full synthetic with the change, and I guess that would give you extra protection and you would at least know there is SOME synthetic with the dino oil.
My S2000 is maintained at my Honda dealer (only oil changes so far). They say they use "Honda" oil but the technician, on the oil change reminder decal they put on my windshield, has noted in the past that Castrol 10/30 was used.
Consumer Reports did a report some years ago on oils. They specified that as long as your oil has the American Petroleum Institute start on the bottle you are OK. Difference really comes down to price. Just get the bottle with the star and you'll be OKeh, even if the oil costs less. This means that the oil has passed several important tests. Synthetics, they said, did provide greater protection for towing but was not necessary for "normal" driving. I just like the synthetics. I would still change my oil at 2500-3000 miles which would increase my costs somewhat but when you consider you are protecting a $6-8K engine it's cheap insurance.
Many have posted comments on oil and frequency of changes, so we could go on forever with this subject. JUST CHANGE IT! |
|
|
| pclemg |
Having worked as an Mechanical Engineer for a number of years, I can tell you that changing oil at 3k is overkill. The engine can easily tolerate changes at 5k. I also have a 94 camry that I've changed oil at 5k to 7.5k and it has 146k with no problem. Having said that, Rotorray or anyone else that wants to do it more frequently can certainly do it and will be fine. It all boils down to economics and how you drive (i.e. city vs. hwy--city being more severe).
As for oil used, I use Mobil 1 5w-30 on my 02' MDX and it works fine. Synethic has better protection against viscosity breakdown than regular oils. As Rotorray mentions, all oils have to pass strict American Petroleum Institutes (API) standards. The standards are updated with more stringent test requirements regularly. Unless you intend to race with your MDX, regular oils are just fine. I use synethic as basically insurance and not that it needs it.
To each there own in terms of oil change and oil types. I definitely agree with Rotorray regarding the statement "Just Change it". |
|
|
| frainc |
Since I lease my X and all other Acura's that I had in the past, I just got my oil change and tires rotated at my dealer for a cost of $26. Have 8,300 miles on my X and will follow the manual on normal driving.
I agree with pclemg when to change oil, but everyone on his/her own when they do their own. Never had a problem with any cars with changing the oil every 5,000 miles/ |
|
|
| DaleB |
It seems many of us engineer types like synthetics, but also see nothing wrong with premium dino oil.
But in any event, nothing replaces an ounce of prevention and consistency.
I take my oil & filter to Honda every 5K and get it changed for just under $14
They still check my brakes and lights, etc.
I should do it myself, but my joints are getting creakier.
:)
I had 19K on my MDX when I did a 3X change of my ATF. The ATF looks better today at 42K than it did before I changed it at 19,000.
But I will likely do the 3X again soon.
ROTORRAY:
..figured you had to either drive an RX-7 or fly choppers....:cool: |
|
|
| ROTORRAY |
You're right, DB. ...Retired heli pilot.
I change my own oil because it's a relatively simple project that keeps me in touch with my vehicles. I'm old and creaky, too, but I manage to do it with minimal impact on MY joints.
While changing the oil you can take the few minutes to check your CV boots (and lube them with silicon oil or ArmorAll...just don't get any on the brake disks!). You can also check for leaks, and give a cursory check of how things are hangin'.
I just like to keep my vehicle in sight when it's worked on. I know how it's treated and what is put into it. Having serviced cars in my youth for a major oil company I know how things are done, both right and wrong. |
|
|
| DaleB |
quote:
Originally posted by ROTORRAY
You're right, DB. ...Retired heli pilot.
I change my own oil because it's a relatively simple project that keeps me in touch with my vehicles. I'm old and creaky, too, but I manage to do it with minimal impact on MY joints.
While changing the oil you can take the few minutes to check your CV boots (and lube them with silicon oil or ArmorAll...just don't get any on the brake disks!). You can also check for leaks, and give a cursory check of how things are hangin'.
I just like to keep my vehicle in sight when it's worked on. I know how it's treated and what is put into it. Having serviced cars in my youth for a major oil company I know how things are done, both right and wrong.
I don't have a whole of excuses. I used to do the same exact things as coating rubber parts, etc. when under there. |
|
|
| huylanmdx |
Could you tell me more specific how to do it?
I had never done this before. How to lube them?
"""While changing the oil you can take the few minutes to check your CV boots (and lube them with silicon oil or ArmorAll...just don't get any on the brake disks!). You can also check for leaks, and give a cursory check of how things are hangin'.""" |
|
|
| thomas |
I did the lube CV boots a few times. I used a special needle for
a grease gun slide into the CV boots from the drive axis. BE
VERY CARE NOT TO PUNCH A HOLE TO THE CV BOOTS. After slide
the needle head into the CV boots, I can start push the silicon
into the boots with the grease gun(get one from any auto store).
T |
|
|
| DaleB |
quote:
Originally posted by huylanmdx
Could you tell me more specific how to do it?
I had never done this before. How to lube them?
"""While changing the oil you can take the few minutes to check your CV boots (and lube them with silicon oil or ArmorAll...just don't get any on the brake disks!). You can also check for leaks, and give a cursory check of how things are hangin'."""
Just plain clear silicone spray. All rubber parts if you are real OC; bushings, etc. |
|
|
| SuperTech |
quote:
Originally posted by thomas
I did the lube CV boots a few times. I used a special needle for
a grease gun slide into the CV boots from the drive axis. BE
VERY CARE NOT TO PUNCH A HOLE TO THE CV BOOTS. After slide
the needle head into the CV boots, I can start push the silicon
into the boots with the grease gun(get one from any auto store).
T
What the?!?!? Don't inject grease into the boots! If they are leaking, they should be replaced and rebanded. But there is no need to replenish the grease inside a CV boot. Not to mention...Hondas use specific grease for the inner or outer joint/boot. The outer will be black, the inner will be yellow.
Spraying silicone on the outside of the boots to prevent chafing isn't necessary either, but probably won't hurt. |
|
|
|
