| mdelagarza |
This past weekend I took the plunge and changed my OEM plugs out, and replaced them with Denso Iridium IK16's. I have 86k on the vehicle and noticed some hesitation on acceleration, as well as lack of power. As I removed the plugs I noticed they were rather worn... lots of wear and tear on the ceramic insulators. They just looked like tired plugs. Already this week I've noticed about a 2 mpg gain in mostly city driving. And the pick-up I remembered when I took it off the showroom floor has returned. So, I would definitely recommend to anyone suffering from declining mpg numbers with more than 60k, to consider a change.
I followed the advice given within this forum and found it to be relatively easy. One piece of advice -- make sure you have a three inch rachet extension, AND a 1.75 or 2 inch extension as well -- almost a must on the front side. On the back side to get to two of the plugs you'll have to remove a throttle mechanism which is bracketed to the engine... but once it's off the back side was a snap. Just make sure you have your hex, your socket, and a cool engine. |
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| huylanmdx |
Can you tell me what kind of the spark plugs you're using? I know that some of them very expensive up to $25 for each.
Thanks |
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| mdx99 |
quote:
Originally posted by huylanmdx
Can you tell me what kind of the spark plugs you're using? I know that some of them very expensive up to $25 for each.
Thanks
Ebay sell the same Denso Iridium for $10 each:2: |
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| mdelagarza |
| MDX99 is correct -- EBay sells the Denso Iridiums for the MDX at about 10 dollars a plug... it occurs to me that a google search will always allow you to find the best price possible... but I will say that in light of the internet offerings the $25 per plug quote you get from the dealer is simply outrageous... |
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| Rick_James |
Hi. I like to know how easy it was to remove all 6-spark plugs? Was there alot of other stuff you had to remove to get to any of the plugs? How many hours it take to get them all removed and new ones in? Did you have to use any special tools, minus the spark plug socket (tool)?
Thanks
RJ |
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| mdelagarza |
RJ:
No special tools are needed other than the ones I mentioned... and nothing more than a standard Craftsman tool set to get the work done, is needed. As I mentioned earlier, the only piece of hardware that I needed to remove was on the backside -- a throttle mechanism that's held down by two small bolts which you just push aside to get to the sparkplug. Other than that, it's fairly simple. Make sure you have adequate lighting, so you can see what you're doing, and that the engine is cool. Good luck! |
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| mdelagarza |
| Regarding the time it takes to install spark plugs -- My rule whenever replacing spark plugs is always plan at least 15 minutes for each plug removal and replacement. That way you don't run into the problem of rushing the job, and risk stripping the aluminum threads on the engine... which would then compound your time and money commitment to undesireable levels...:mad: |
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| RC98 |
| Looking to swap my plugs DIY...when you installed yours, did you have to make any gap adjustments ? |
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| mdelagarza |
| I don't recall having to adjust the gap, although I'm sure I did check it with a gap gauge... but they were pretty much right on target. |
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| qeg84doa |
| Just finished changing the plugs and I must say it was actually no problem. It looks a little intimidating but it's not. I used the iridium ix ZFR5FIX-11 from Advanced Auto Parts aka partsamerica.com and they were only 4.99 each. Anyway, I changed them with no problems at all. Be sure you use a couple of smaller extensions which will come in handy. The old spark plugs were in very good shape and would probably lasted another 100K. I took her for a test drive and she purred along no difference noted. I did not use any lubrication when replacing the new plugs per instructions on NGK website. ( I almost used anti-seize) they noted that lubrication will cause the plugs to be too tight causing them to possibly leak! I've always used anti-seize without giving it second thought-glad I checked. I attached a pic of the old plugs so you can see they are in very good shape. |
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| Kev-man |
quote:
Originally posted by qeg84doa
I did not use any lubrication when replacing the new plugs per instructions on NGK website. ( I almost used anti-seize) they noted that lubrication will cause the plugs to be too tight causing them to possibly leak! I've always used anti-seize without giving it second thought-glad I checked.
Where exactly on their website did they talk about not using anti-seize? I'd like to read about it too. |
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| qeg84doa |
Here you go!
Additional Information
It is recommended to use spark plugs with the special plating on all aluminum
cylinder head applications to prevent damage to the cylinder head. The shell
plating acts as a “lubricant” which breaks away from the main body of the spark
plug during removal thus preventing the bonding of the aluminum from the
cylinder head to the threads. All NGK Spark Plugs are manufactured with special
shell plating on the metal body.
The use of anti-seize on spark plugs is only recommended on those brands that
do not offer a special metal shell plating. Spark plugs that have a shiny silver
appearance on the metal body usually indicate that the spark plug is
manufactured with special metal shell plating. All spark plugs that have a
blackened or dull appearance on the metal body offer no protection against
seizing or protection against bonding to the aluminum cylinder head. |
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| Kev-man |
Thanks for the link, and I can verify that NGK tech service emailed me and confirmed that very thing:
"NGK does not recommend the use of anti-seize as it can act as a lubricant during installation causing the plug to become over tightened even though the correct torque may be seen at the torque wrench. The trivalent zinc chromate coating that is on all NGK plugs is all that is needed to prevent seizure and corrosion so long as the correct torque is applied which is between 18-21 ft-lbs for an aluminum head or finger tight plus an additional 1/2-2/3 a turn.
Best regards,
Technical Support Representative
Aftermarket Division
NGK Spark Plugs (U.S.A.), INC.
46929 Magellan Dr.
Wixom, MI 48393 |
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| Kev-man |
Help!! I've never taken the cover off my engine, but I just did, and call me a moron, but I'm not sure where all the 6 spark plugs are located.... I don't have a manual either, so is there a link or some pics that someone can send me to help me change out my plugs?
I've got the plugs, torque wrench, two 3" extensions....just need to know where to attack! Thanks! |
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| Kev-man |
Leave someone to figure something out themselves, and they often do it. I took off the long skinny plastic cover on the front of the engine (2 simple flat head plastic "screws") and found the strange (to me) connections covering each of the 3 front spark plugs. After seeing those, it confirmed the rear ones as well. Couple of things to note during the process:
1. whoever first suggested using two 3" extensions is a genius. They're absolutely required.
2. I had a hard time getting the 3" extention detents to hold on enough to pull the spark socket off the plug once I had it installed, so I used a little of the connection grease on the inside of my socket. Helped quite a bit.
3. I'd never seen wires that appear to be basically a spring loaded pressure fit onto the spark plugs. Very easy to remove & re-attach.
4. The project was easier than I had expected, so I encourage other to to try it too. Just hope my vehicle starts & runs tomorrow.....
BTW, I used the iridium ix ZFR5FIX-11 from Advanced Auto Parts too. |
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| qeg84doa |
Kev-man,
How did your old plugs look? Did she drive
noticeably better? |
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| Kev-man |
quote:
Originally posted by qeg84doa
Kev-man,
How did your old plugs look? Did she drive
noticeably better?
I think they looked OK, but I'm no expert. Not black, not white, kinda dark brown or grey-ish. I'm trying to attach some pics, but no promises......
I'm trying to be objective, and I don't notice her driving better, but it does seem to not downshift into a lower gear when on cruise control and going up hills. Maybe my imagination....so no huge difference, but I've never driven it hard either to tell a big power difference. |
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| qeg84doa |
| It's all good. With these new Iridiums we shouldn't have to worry about spark plugs for quite some time. Bottom line is that its not a difficult job when using the right tools. |
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| G. COLTON |
I am curious why it is considered better to use multiple short entensions rather than one longer extension???
Would someone please enlighten me?
G |
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| Kev-man |
quote:
Originally posted by G. COLTON
I am curious why it is considered better to use multiple short entensions rather than one longer extension???
Would someone please enlighten me?
G
I didn't understand either until I physically tried it, but it's all about the clearance "above" the surface of the holes where you install the plugs. You can fit a 3" w/ plug down into the hole, and after it's mostly inside, you can then stick the other 3" onto the end of the first. A 6" w/plug is pretty hard to get into some of the holes, and impossible in others. |
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