| mdxforever |
Hi, I was curious about the performance of the stock speakers so pulled out one of the door speakers for measurement. These are the impedance and FR plots, and the T/S parameters. Here we go..
Fs: 76.5 Hz
Qms: 4.863
Qes: 1.203
Qts: 0.964
Vas: 0.541 ft³
Here's the impedance plot - |
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| mdxforever |
| ..and here's the frequency response. Needless to say, the driver is useless above 2Khz with that nasty breakup node at 4Khz. |
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| mdxforever |
By the way, these are all "free air/room" measurements, not "in car".
Stay tuned for the subwoofer measurements ;) |
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| mdxforever |
Subwoofer(Alpine):
Fs: 46.5 Hz
Qts: .737
Qms: 8.58
Qes: 0.807
Vas: 1.768 ft³
I believe it is crossed over at 80hz. |
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| mdxforever |
| subwoofer impeance: |
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| mdxforever |
The metal baskets of the stock (alpine) drivers ring like bells. Generous use of rope caulk on the baskets and flanges helped reduce it tremendously. The difference in sound - bass quality especially - was immediately noticeable. This definitely helped the mids. Also added one more layer of tape to flange of the subwoofer to isolate it a even more from the car's frame.
The doors and subwoofer cavity have absolutely no damping material inside. Hoping to see a lot of improvement after putting some suitable material inside. I want to find something that will help reduce road noise and eliminate driver backwave and resonances.
Anyone changing all the speakers should also bear this mind. Bare metal walls on the back of a driver really don't help. It would be worth doing this if you are upgrading the speakers anyway(which I might too eventually).
Just my observations and experiences that I'd like to share with you, especially audio/speaker diy enthusiasts like me :p |
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