| Dog |
The parking garage where I park my MDX has a water leak and it's left thick deposits on the roof and sunroof. I assume the deposits are dissolved cement/plaster etc. The deposits won't just wash off and I don't want to scrub them off since it is likely that they will scratch my paint.
Anyone know of a cleaner that will dissolve the deposits but not hurt the paint of any of the rubber seals around the sunroof?
This is what I get for $375 a month in parking fees.
:3: |
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| JL_SS |
quote:
Originally posted by Dog
The parking garage where I park my MDX has a water leak and it's left thick deposits on the roof and sunroof. I assume the deposits are dissolved cement/plaster etc. The deposits won't just wash off and I don't want to scrub them off since it is likely that they will scratch my paint.
Anyone know of a cleaner that will dissolve the deposits but not hurt the paint of any of the rubber seals around the sunroof?
This is what I get for $375 a month in parking fees.
:3:
Clay bar for the paint and maybe 303 Aerospace Protectant or Vinylex for the Rubber. Good Luck! You could also have a body shop look at it and make a claim against the garages insurance to pay for having them do it. |
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| G. COLTON |
I would expect that you are dealing with calcium deposits. This is the same as the deposits you see when you wash your vehicle and do not dry. However, you have a much greater deposit now.
First try a solution on household vinegar. This is a very mild acid. If this does not work get a calcium remover such as Lime Away. This is normally found in the household cleaner department of grocery stores. Your auto parts store may also have something.
As with any new product that you are using always first try it on an inconspicuous part of your vehicle.
G |
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| shootist |
| Hey! Where did you find the cheap parking rate? I'm up to $430 now, and its a special once-a-week-in and out deal. |
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| highcountrymdx |
If you are going the calcium remover route (yikes!), try give CLR a try instead of Lime A Way. Lime A Way is very powerful, and will probably damage the paint. I was cleaning the glass shower door a few years ago, and some of the Lime A Way overspray actually removed the gold(?) anodizing on the aluminum shower door trim! What ever you do, first test a hidden area like a door jamb or a section of the underside of the hood.
Before you go the household cleaner route, I might first try an cleaner-wax like Turtle Wax first. The solvents they contain are designed to be compatible with automotive finishes. |
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| Dog |
Thanks for the advice. I'll start with the vinegar and work my way down the pH ladder. When it gets to the point that it eats a hole through the roof, I'll stop. I'll report back on how it goes.
The garage is aware of the problem, but I'd like to find an easy solution without the need to escalate into insurance/lawsuit status. If they stop letting me park there, I'm pretty hosed. |
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| JL_SS |
quote:
Originally posted by Dog
Thanks for the advice. I'll start with the vinegar and work my way down the pH ladder. When it gets to the point that it eats a hole through the roof, I'll stop. I'll report back on how it goes.
The garage is aware of the problem, but I'd like to find an easy soultion without the need to escalate into insurance/lawsuit status. If they stop letting me park there, I'm pretty hosed.
If it's an ongoing problem then maybe investing in a car cover will prevent it from continuing to ruin your MDX. |
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| hammermdx |
quote:
Originally posted by JL_SS
If it's an ongoing problem then maybe investing in a car cover will prevent it from continuing to ruin your MDX.
The problem with a car cover is that unless the MDX was just washed, you will cause more harm than good by covering a dirty vehicle and introducing a ton of scratches each time the cover is put on and taken off. |
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| JL_SS |
quote:
Originally posted by hammermdx
The problem with a car cover is that unless the MDX was just washed, you will cause more harm than good by covering a dirty vehicle and introducing a ton of scratches each time the cover is put on and taken off.
I would probably just try to carefully lay the cover across the top of the mdx (not fully install it) to catch the water and direct it off to the side. And then remove it carefully. Anything to keep the damage from continuing. Actually you could just use thin sheet plastic to achieve the same results and not really ruin the finish upon removal because there is no weight to the plastic to scratch the finish. |
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| Fabvsix |
Old but GREAT remedy:
WD 40 !
Remember that GREAT stuff ???????????????????????????:1: |
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| Dog |
Thanks for all of the suggestions. Unfortunately, the deposits were just too thick to for the vinegar or WD-40 to have much effect. After reading the warning labels on the CLR - "do not use on metal or painted surfaces" - there was no way I was going to put it on my MDX.
I was able to get most of the deposits off, but it required a lot of careful and time consuming scraping. There's still some stuck on that I just can't get off. At least it's on the roof where no one can see it, though I know it's there. This is almost as bad as my first door ding - also courtesy of my garage...
I love car ownership! |
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| Morph |
Like G. Colton said, you are dealing with etched paint caused by calcium deposits. If you wax your car regularly you can greatly reduce and in most cases prevent things like this from occurring. Many people forget that this is what wax does, it is a sacrificial coating between your paint and the elements that needs to be replenished every 1-3 months (depending on how often your car is exposed). Making the car a little shinier is a secondary function.
However, since the damage is already done, the correct and safest repair procedure is to polish. Go buy a quality paint polish or fine cut compound and a foam applicator pad. For paint repair, I recommend brands like 3M or Meguiars, both have professional supply lines that are not diluted for the consumer market. You'll also want to look for these products at auto parts stores, they may be more difficult to find at places like WalMart. Once you have the tools for the task follow these steps:
1) WASH - clean and dry the area to be polished thoroughly.
2) CLAY - this will remove any contaminants in the paint and properly prepare the surface for polish. Skipping this step will reduce the effectiveness of the polish and you'll risk inflicting more scratches by picking up debris in the paint during the polishing.
3) POLISH - Begin by using light pressure and straight-line (not circular) strokes. Do not work more than a 2x2 area at a time. Make about 10 to 15 passes then wipe away any residue with a microfiber and inspect. If you don't see much of a difference, try it again with medium pressure strokes. If you still are not seeing results, step up to the fine compound until you've achieved the desired result.
4) WAX - protect and seal your paint with 1-2 coats of a quality wax or a sealant of your choice.
5) MAINTAIN - to prevent this damage from occurring again, replenish your paint protection (wax) every 1-2 months if your car is outside/exposed often or every 2-3 months if it is garaged most of the time.
I highly recommend reading the following detailing article before you begin, it will help you understand your paint and how polishing corrects defects (if you don't have time to read all of it, at least scroll about halfway down to "Polishing Basics" and read from there thru to "Refine the Paint Finish"):
http://autopia-carcare.com/inf-polishing.html
Product recommendations, listed from very-low (VL), to low (L) to medium (M) abrasiveness:
(VL) Meguiars Deep Crystal System Polish
(VL) Mothers California Gold Scratch Remover
(VL) Meguiars Mirror Glaze Hand Polish
(L) Meguiars Mirror Glaze Swirl Remover 9 or Swirl Free Polish
(L) 3M™ Perfect-It™ Swirlmark Remover, PN 39009
(M) Meguiars Mirror Glaze Fine Cut Cleaner 2
(M) 3M Perfect-It™ II Rubbing Compound Fine Cut, PN 39002 |
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