| RSM |
| How do you remove the special wire spring that secures the rubber intake tube to the air filter box? Is there a special tool for this or can I just use a plier? I want to try replacing the filter myself. |
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| DaleB |
It can just be 'worked' off or on.
For me, I find it easiest to just loosen the 4 airbox screws, and begin to lift the cover, you can just manhandle it a bit and work it off.
But when replacing it I find it easier to work it back on AFTER I replace the top cover.
Maybe SuperTech found a method he finds best, since he does so many on a regular basis. |
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| ROTORRAY |
| Someone will probably say this is a "no, no" but if you can't bend the top of the air cleaner housing out of the way to change the cleaner just hold the rubber tube (which is secured to the top of the air cleaner housing by the spring thing) securely with one hand while pulling the housing top with the other hand. It will come off. There's a tab which kind of ensures you put it on correctly but trying to take the spring thing off is a pain, and I don't think worth the effort. |
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| romicva |
I managed to change air filter without disconnecting the hose (so there was no need to remove the wire). There's enough clearance to remove the old filter and to check to see that filter housing is clean. I was gentle not to bent that air hose.
I'd remove the wire and disconnect the hose only if I saw dirt in the housing.
Good luck. |
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| screbr |
I just did mine a couple of weekends ago, and didn't need to disconnect the cover. But when I was tightening the cover back on, I lost my ratchet extensions into the "depths" below the intake housing. I had to remove the entire upper and lower portions to finally dig out the extensions.
Specifically to your question, after loosening the 4 screws that hold down the cover, I just wiggled the cover and rotated it slightly back and forth until it came free. |
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| Maldoman |
| Anybody have any comments with using a K&N air filter. Retail @ Auto Zone for $65.00. It should pay for itself with 3 changes? Air flow supposed to be better than the OEM paper filters?:27: |
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| DaleB |
quote:
Originally posted by Maldoman
Anybody have any comments with using a K&N air filter. Retail @ Auto Zone for $65.00. It should pay for itself with 3 changes? Air flow supposed to be better than the OEM paper filters?:27:
Amsoil now makes panel filters using fiber technology. Supposedly free breathing, and will not choke up like paper, and holds more dirt.
It requires periodic maintenance but no oil, which is a big plus.
Unfortunately, they STILL don't make any for the MDX/Pilot. I don't understand why it's taking so long.
$65 is high anyway for a K&N you get them cheaper online, etc.
There are tests showing K&N passes too much dirt, although it's not conclusive how much is too much, even though everyone agrees they don't want any.
Other good paper alternatives are WIX, NAPA, and Purolator. |
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| gogozy |
quote:
Originally posted by screbr
I just did mine a couple of weekends ago, and didn't need to disconnect the cover. But when I was tightening the cover back on, I lost my ratchet extensions into the "depths" below the intake housing. I had to remove the entire upper and lower portions to finally dig out the extensions.
Specifically to your question, after loosening the 4 screws that hold down the cover, I just wiggled the cover and rotated it slightly back and forth until it came free.
happen to me once when i was working on TSX, so i tie a magnet on the wire and fish it out. |
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| Maldoman |
| Heard alot of good things about the True Flow Air filter. To worried about the filtration on the K&N based on reviews, so thats out. Giving True Flow a try and see how it goes?:29: |
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| dmz |
| I would not recommend a K&N filter. I used a K&N drop in on my old QX4 and after about 80k miles my throttle body started to stick. I took the throttle body out and there was chunks of oily gunk all over the throttle body and inside the intake manifold. Who know how much of that stuff got into the engine. While I never experinced any engine failure because of that (Sold the QX4 at 135k miles with a perfectly good running engine) Unless your car is highly modified, It's just not worth the trouble for the little money saved on filters and no measurable performanced gained. |
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| mdxforever |
I dont think the regular service procedure calls for disconnecting the intake pipe from the air filter cover. Just pull the cover up. Its a little cumbersome to hold the cover and pull/put the filter in but thats the easiest. Make sure you remove the vaccum lines going into the intake tube before you start pulling stuff. You dont want to yank them too far, plus it will make it easier.
{edit:} correction to the above. Its not the vacuum lines but the wiring harness hooked under the intake tube that will need to be un-hooked in order to pull open the air filter cover.
Loosing an extension or socket in that area is very easy.
Dont waste your money on a high flowing filter unless you plan on removing the resonator and air filter box too (kinda like a cai or sri). Its the plumbing not filter that is the weakest link. But if you are feeling like it use the WIX or Napa Gold until the Amsoil comes out. |
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| Maldoman |
| Just received my True Flow Air Filter today by UPS. Hope I made the right choice based on all posts I read. I'll test it out and if it doesn’t work out, I’m staying with the OEM paper filter and chalk it up to nothing ventured nothing gained:8: |
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| QRTLOW |
I'v had about 13 years experiance with K&N filters and can give you a little feedback.
K&N traps more dirt than standard filters but if negleted, lets more fly through over time. You have to remember, this technology was originally designed for Baja 500 and Motorcross. It is the best when it is fresh. There are expensive AutoZone (and other) paper that blows it away performance-wise initially, but you need to replace it every other month. It's like a $30 HEPA HVAC home filter, how punctilious do you want to be?
Problem is the oil will dry out every 90 days. Then particles load up, then pass through and restriction begins. Don't buy a K&N if your lazy. If you want to spring for the high entrapment paper filaments, realize the airflow velocity degrades fast because they load up with dirt fast (back to the HEPA reference), meaning they will restrict airflow soon. Replace them often.
Removal and Re-install
Losen the screws only enough to wiggle it free; rock it back and forth until you figure out which ones arn't ready. Pull the housing by the hose and lift it up enough to get the filter out. Use the Recharge kit and degrease the bejezus out of it and when rinsing, make sure the water flow is reverse to airflow or you will drive particles back into the micro-filament.
Important to let dry completely. Put it in direct sunlight for a few hours, and if in doubt, run a hot hairdryer through it if necessary.
Don''t go nuts and over impregnate the filament with new oil. Just get it nice and dark pink; it will absorb on its own.
A 1/4 inch ratchet with a deep 8mm socket on a 6" extension does the job. Don't over tighten. |
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| DaleB |
quote:
Originally posted by QRTLOW
I'v had about 13 years experiance with K&N filters and can give you a little feedback.
K&N traps more dirt than standard filters but if negleted, lets more fly through over time. You have to remember, this technology was originally designed for Baja 500 and Motorcross. It is the best when it is fresh. There are expensive AutoZone (and other) paper that blows it away performance-wise initially, but you need to replace it every other month. It's like a $30 HEPA HVAC home filter, how punctilious do you want to be?
Problem is the oil will dry out every 90 days. Then particles load up, then pass through and restriction begins. Don't buy a K&N if your lazy. If you want to spring for the high entrapment paper filaments, realize the airflow velocity degrades fast because they load up with dirt fast (back to the HEPA reference), meaning they will restrict airflow soon. Replace them often.
Removal and Re-install
Losen the screws only enough to wiggle it free; rock it back and forth until you figure out which ones arn't ready. Pull the housing by the hose and lift it up enough to get the filter out. Use the Recharge kit and degrease the bejezus out of it and when rinsing, make sure the water flow is reverse to airflow or you will drive particles back into the micro-filament.
Important to let dry completely. Put it in direct sunlight for a few hours, and if in doubt, run a hot hairdryer through it if necessary.
Don''t go nuts and over impregnate the filament with new oil. Just get it nice and dark pink; it will absorb on its own.
A 1/4 inch ratchet with a deep 8mm socket on a 6" extension does the job. Don't over tighten.
First of all I would think maintenance should be based on mileage not time intervals when it comes to air filters.
If something like oil drying out is going to change that significantly then you are adding more than a reasonable amount of downtime.
This certainly supports the use of fiber technology filters like the Amsoil or AEM where maintenance does not involve replacing the filter within a short time, or using oil at all.
Oil is always a risk because of possible contamination of the MAF sensor.
If you want to continue to use K&N, or any other oil type filter I think TrueFlow is a better alternative as it has at least as much surface area but a much thicker media for containing contamination.
But the success of a quality paper filter for filtering is a good alternative. I don't know where you come up with your intervals, love to see the numbers to support it, but changing out a paper filter every 10K should suffice for most everyday street use, and far exceeds manufacturer's recommendations.
And let me add, if you want to use K&N or other similar filters, you might consider going with Manus1980 cool air system which use a large K&N filter that connects directly to the throttle body inlet eliminating the box altogether making things much easier for that maintenance you perform every 90 days. |
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| vetdude |
| I just popped in a new Fram ir filter and the MDX runs fine with an added increase in fuel economy. Many fellow Corvette owners have encountered problems using K&N air filters due to over oiling then the excess oil collecting on the delicate and sensitive mass air flow (MAF) sensors. Don't believe the hype. |
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| QRTLOW |
quote:
Originally posted by DaleB
First of all I would think maintenance should be based on mileage not time intervals when it comes to air filters.
If something like oil drying out is going to change that significantly then you are adding more than a reasonable amount of downtime.
This certainly supports the use of fiber technology filters like the Amsoil or AEM where maintenance does not involve replacing the filter within a short time, or using oil at all.
Oil is always a risk because of possible contamination of the MAF sensor.
If you want to continue to use K&N, or any other oil type filter I think TrueFlow is a better alternative as it has at least as much surface area but a much thicker media for containing contamination.
But the success of a quality paper filter for filtering is a good alternative. I don't know where you come up with your intervals, love to see the numbers to support it, but changing out a paper filter every 10K should suffice for most everyday street use, and far exceeds manufacturer's recommendations.
And let me add, if you want to use K&N or other similar filters, you might consider going with Manus1980 cool air system which use a large K&N filter that connects directly to the throttle body inlet eliminating the box altogether making things much easier for that maintenance you perform every 90 days.
Maintenance cant be based on just mileage. Climate is a bigger factor. I live in the desert and dust is our biggest pollution. My filter can accumulate more dirt in one month than a driver in Cuyahoga Falls Ohio does in one year. Numbers? Do you expect me to produce a Berkeley Scientific Journal to substantiate my personal results?
10K for normal filter maintenance? Thats a year of driving and sound advice for our friends in Cuyahoga Falls.
What I'd like to see is a cold air pack for the MDX. Is anyone making one? |
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| DaleB |
"Maintenance cant be based on just mileage. Climate is a bigger factor. I live in the desert and dust is our biggest pollution. My filter can accumulate more dirt in one month than a driver in Cuyahoga Falls Ohio does in one year"
I seriously doubt those are normal conditions for most people. OK so you replace them more often like every 6Kmiles. That's about 500% over what those misniformed automobile engineers recommend. ;)
But should still meet any 'severe' requirement.
My statement was restricted to filters in general, not other maintenance which can be directly affected by time. Like fluids. But filters are only in use when the car is running. That's why mileage. (If you discount the oil in the K&N).
"Numbers? Do you expect me to produce a Berkeley Scientific Journal to substantiate my personal results?"
Do you have one? Seriously, I take data from mfrs wth a grain of salt too.. but some data would be helpful.
"What I'd like to see is a cold air pack for the MDX. Is anyone making one? "
No recommended CAIs for the MDX. I Manus' is the closest.. there might be a K&N Typhoon (?) now that fits.
Again, if you go that route with a cone filter, you would be much better served with a filter using fiber technology than rely on oil which as pointed out, has it's own risks.
Both mfrs provide data on the efficiency of their filters. I have charts for the AEM filter if you are interested, msg me.
AEM only makes cone type filters at this time, but sizes that cover most aftermarket systems. It's an alternative that is long overdue IMO. |
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| mdxforever |
| for non-stock air intake systems, AEM Dryflow is THE way to go. |
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| DaleB |
quote:
Originally posted by mdxforever
for non-stock air intake systems, AEM Dryflow is THE way to go.
Interesting how we went back on forth on air cleaner studies some months ago, and independently arrived at the same conclusion.
:) |
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| DougsMDX |
quote:
Originally posted by QRTLOW
I'v had about 13 years experiance with K&N filters and can give you a little feedback.
K&N traps more dirt than standard filters but if negleted, lets more fly through over time. You have to remember, this technology was originally designed for Baja 500 and Motorcross. It is the best when it is fresh. There are expensive AutoZone (and other) paper that blows it away performance-wise initially, but you need to replace it every other month. It's like a $30 HEPA HVAC home filter, how punctilious do you want to be?
Problem is the oil will dry out every 90 days. Then particles load up, then pass through and restriction begins. Don't buy a K&N if your lazy. If you want to spring for the high entrapment paper filaments, realize the airflow velocity degrades fast because they load up with dirt fast (back to the HEPA reference), meaning they will restrict airflow soon. Replace them often.
Removal and Re-install
Losen the screws only enough to wiggle it free; rock it back and forth until you figure out which ones arn't ready. Pull the housing by the hose and lift it up enough to get the filter out. Use the Recharge kit and degrease the bejezus out of it and when rinsing, make sure the water flow is reverse to airflow or you will drive particles back into the micro-filament.
Important to let dry completely. Put it in direct sunlight for a few hours, and if in doubt, run a hot hairdryer through it if necessary.
Don''t go nuts and over impregnate the filament with new oil. Just get it nice and dark pink; it will absorb on its own.
A 1/4 inch ratchet with a deep 8mm socket on a 6" extension does the job. Don't over tighten.
I put a K&N air filter when I did my first oil change and have noticed a REDUCTION in my mph ........ After reading this thread, I'm thinking next oil change, I'm going back to a high quality paper. Maybe I need to yank it out of my '69 camaro too!!!
Doug |
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| QRTLOW |
quote:
Originally posted by DougsMDX
I put a K&N air filter when I did my first oil change and have noticed a REDUCTION in my mph ........ After reading this thread, I'm thinking next oil change, I'm going back to a high quality paper. Maybe I need to yank it out of my '69 camaro too!!!
Doug
After cleaning mine, believe or not I can feel a little improvement in acceleration. However the results not being scientific, I feel I know my ride pretty good and I do feel a "seat of the pants" difference. |
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| mdxforever |
quote:
Originally posted by DaleB
Interesting how we went back on forth on air cleaner studies some months ago, and independently arrived at the same conclusion.
:)
yep I remember that. |
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