| TheWorm |
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UPDATE: FIRE!
READ THIS THREAD FIRST: http://www.acuramdx.org/forums/show...&threadid=12040
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Well, I bit the bullet, pulled out the trusty multimeter, and installed an aftermarket DRL kit. The DRLs light the headlights only (not the tails or running lights) when the car's running. It works well, but the installation wasn't as painless as I had hoped, especially based on my search for aftermarket, plug-and-play units. My goal was to find one that required no cutting, splicing or tapping so I could leave all the OEM harnesses and wires intact.
Unfortunately, even though I thought I found such a kit, "plug and play" was not the case and I had to spend a few hours doing custom (although basic) wiring harnesses and mods (the mods really only took 30 minutes, but I had to track down all the parts). Adding to the confusion: three different answers on how bright the DRLs actually are (as a % of regular headlight brightness). An email from the manufacturer's tech people says it's 65%. The box says it's 60%, and the installation instructions say it's 80%. Here's a pic of what the result looks like. I'd guess that they're about 65% of regular headlight brightness.
I'll post a handful of replies with comments and additional install pics. |
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| TheWorm |
| I bought the PilotLighting DRL6 kit from Styling Concepts for $55 (special order only), which is for 9006 lamps and presumably plug and play according to the manufacturer. To be honest, if it were returnable (which special orders are not) I would have sent it back, abandoning my DRL quest altogether (other kits are available, but all of them require a fair amount of cutting and splicing). Now that it's in and operational, I'm glad I have it...but the lack of an easy plug-and-play installation (as advertised) was really disappointing, as was the fact that the manufacturer has no harness kits/converters to solve the main problems with easily installing the unit (see next post). A picture of the kit is below: |
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| TheWorm |
Unfortunately, the kit isn't plug and play for the MDX, and here's why:- The polarity on the OEM headlight harness is opposite of what the DRL unit expects, rendering it totally inoperative if you try plug and play
- The DRL unit senses that the car is running (and thus turning on the DRLs) through an inductive wire attached to the spark plug wires. But...the MDX doesn't have spark plug wires -- the plugs are snapped directly into the coils for each cylinder.
So, without cutting the MDX's original wires (my primary goal) I had to figure out a way to reverse the OEM harness polarity before it hit the DRL unit, and also had to find someplace to attach the ignition sensor. Here is what's needed to make these mods:- 2 additional 9006 socket connectors for a custom polarity-reversing harness (goes between OEM harness and the DRL module). These are only available w/female ends, since the male connectors are built into the lamps themselves. Available at any auto parts store.
- 4 24k flat pin connectors (for 14-16 gauge wire) to attach to the wire end of the storebought 9006 harnesses, allowing plug-in to the OEM female harness. Available at Radio Shack in the stereo section
- a wiretap and spade plug for 16-20 gauge wire to attach the DRL ignition-sensing wire to "something""
- heat shrink
- split wire loom to clean it all up and make it look stock
On the left are before and after pics of the inductive sensor wire (intended for sparkplugs) that I added a spade connector to (then heatshrink it). On the upper right is one of the two custom harnesses (9006 plug and flat pin connectors) that plug into the OEM headlight harness (lower right). You just cross the wires when you plug it in to reverse the polarity going to the DRL unit. |
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| TheWorm |
| For the DRL to operate, it needs to know when the car is running. The inductive ignition sensor wire (meant for a spark plug wire) is intended for that purpose. Since there is no spark plug wire, I had to find an "ignition hot" wire someplace under the hood. The best one I found is the black & yellow "ignition hot" wire leading to the underhood fuse/relay box (passenger side). This is the only readily available, reasonably safe-to-use "ignition on" wire under the hood. All of the fuses under the hood are always hot, so you can't use a fuse tap. BTW this was the only wire that required tapping for the install. It leads to the Engine Load Detector in the fuse box, which basically turns on your battery-alternator warning lamp if the alternator is malfunctioning. There are other "ignition on" wires under the hood, but they're primarily for safety items (e.g. ABS) so I didn't want to mess with tapping into those. |
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| TheWorm |
I'll leave out the boring part of hooking up the pre-built harnesses from the DRL "master" unit to the "slave unit" on the opposite headlight. I'll also leave out attaching the "red" power wire to the battery. Here's a pic of a decent mounting spot on the passenger side. It's velcro'd and wiretied. I had to order the split wire loom, so I haven't cleaned up all the wiring yet, so it still looks kinda hairy.
FWIW, you could do this whole deal with the fog lights instead of the lowbeams. However, fogs-without-headlights in CA is illegal, and removing the fogs is a bit tougher to do. However, when poking around the engine compartment, I noticed a couple of ideal mounting spots for the control units right by the fogs. |
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| AtlantaMDX |
Worm,
Outstanding job of detailing and documenting the DRL. I also appreciate your thoughts on the whole process and choice. I have never really "missed" DRL's (never having had them). But if I did, I think I'd follow your route.
Thanks, |
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| Pittmdx |
Appreciate the detail. Someone if following the footsteps of DMor:D :D
Hey Worm, get the Razos and enjoy the MDX more. |
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| golfski |
| Just wondering, since the Canadian version has DRL's whether there's an OEM kit that would truly be plug and play? |
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| Robyjo |
Great detailed account, Worm!
Hopefully I'll have an X soon to try it on...:( |
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| TheWorm |
quote:
Originally posted by golfski
Just wondering, since the Canadian version has DRL's whether there's an OEM kit that would truly be plug and play?
You'd think so, but no. The CDN version has a DRL unit that plugs into a wiring harness (under dash) that differs significantly from the US version. It's not just the harness itself that's different, but the functions/relays etc, too. |
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| cardingtr |
| I'm glad MDX here has no DRL. Your post is helpful for those who wants one. |
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| AtlantaMDX |
quote:
Originally posted by golfski
Just wondering, since the Canadian version has DRL's whether there's an OEM kit that would truly be plug and play?
You would think so. You'd think since both US and Canadian cars are built in the same plant (and presumably) on the same line. Weird. |
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| AtlantaMDX |
quote:
Originally posted by cardingtr
I'm glad MDX here has no DRL. Your post is helpful for those who wants one.
Just out of curiosity, why would you not want DRL's? I've never had them, and don't know that I'd go out of my way to add them. But if they came standard, I don't know that they'd bother me either. Just curious. |
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| cardingtr |
What a DRL can do that a pair of headlights can't? At least in a situation that you don't need a DRL, you can switch off a headlight.
If you are responsible, educated driver enough that know when to turn on your lights, you don't need a DRL.
One more thing on MDX, this could be on a different topic, the foglights' beam have the same color and intensity as the headlights. We should call it accessory light.
The foglight should be yellowish because it penetrates the fog better and doesn't scatter much.
Too much whining....and the doors should auto lock at specific speed, the rear wiper should be intermittent, the mudguard could be a little longer, I wish there's a manual tranny..... |
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| TheWorm |
quote:
Originally posted by cardingtr
What a DRL can do that a pair of headlights can't? At least in a situation that you don't need a DRL, you can switch off a headlight.
If you are responsible, educated driver enough that know when to turn on your lights, you don't need a DRL.
I was wondering how long it'd be til someone asked "what's the point" but at least it wasn't a "DRLs are evil" post...
I'm not sure how you'd define a situation where you "don't need" a DRL, though, since they're a passive safety device that increase visibility.
This is especially helpful where we live, with many 2 lane, tree lined roads with lots of shadows that make it difficult to see darker cars at all times of day. Bottom line is that cars with DRLs are significantly more visible to other traffic. If the DRLs allow people on the sidestreets to see us better, and keep them from unsafely pulling out in front of us (which occurs too frequently) and requiring me to hit the brakes (or crash) with a wife, kid and dog in the car -- then they're worth the 75 bucks "insurance" right there.
Yea, you could just leave the headlights on all the time, along with all the other running lights. I'd prefer to switch out the just the headlights sooner rather than all the running lights. I also prefer a lower-intensity DRL to avoid any potential glare to other drivers (and the "hey your headlights are on, stupid" flashing from oncoming traffic).
Here's a snippet from the IIHS on DRLs:
Daytime running lights are a low-cost method to reduce crashes. They are especially effective in preventing daytime head-on and front-corner collisions by increasing vehicle conspicuity and making it easier to detect approaching vehicles from farther away.
Nearly all published reports indicate DRLs reduce multiple-vehicle daytime crashes. Evidence about DRL effects on crashes comes from studies conducted in Scandinavia, Canada, and the United States. A study examining the effect of Norway's DRL law from 1980 to 1990, found a 10 percent decline in daytime multiple-vehicle crashes. A Danish study reported a 7 percent reduction in DRL-relevant crashes in the first 15 months after DRL use was required and a 37 percent decline in left-turn crashes. In a second study covering two years and 9 months of Denmark's law, there was a 6 percent reduction in daytime multiple-vehicle crashes and a 34 percent reduction in left-turn crashes. A 1994 Transport Canada study comparing 1990 model year vehicles with DRLs to 1989 vehicles without them, found that DRLs reduced relevant daytime multiple-vehicle crashes by 11 percent. |
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| golfski |
quote:
Originally posted by TheWorm
You'd think so, but no. The CDN version has a DRL unit that plugs into a wiring harness (under dash) that differs significantly from the US version. It's not just the harness itself that's different, but the functions/relays etc, too.
That's really surprising! Makes you wonder what else is significantly different in the Canadian version that requires a different harness? The Navigation isn't available on the Canadian version - that's the only major accessory difference I can think of. Other than that, other than some different labelling - I thought the cars were identical. Maybe a installing different harness for DRL is cheaper than installing a DRL module.
The DRL's on the Canadian version utilize the inside lamp of the headlight cluster (i.e. the High Beam lamp). It's at reduced power, obviously.
DRL's have been required in Canada for a number of years now. I was pretty skeptical when they were introduced but I've since changed my attitude. They really DO make a difference in visibility (i.e. you being seen by other drivers and you seeing other cars) during certain daylight situations: very flat light, low contrast, at dusk, early morning, etc...
Cardingtr: You could switch on your lights when the situation requires it, but the reality is, many drivers don't - and seeing the other guy is as important as you being seen. As you said, any responsible, educated driver would - but it's the other type I worry about. One situation where I think they're valuable is on long stretches of two lane highway. If there's somebody in the other lane, passing a slower car, they're a lot more visible to you, sooner (and you're more visible to them). |
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| Rodzir |
| I have heard that the DRL on the Canadian model is just a module that plugs in the the harness. Can't we just buy the module? I would ask Tim at Hondacura World. He always has an answer. |
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| andrew |
Actually, I started to look into this DRL thing several months back and found out the DRL module p/n for the Canadian MDX is 38260-SV4-C01. The cost is about 160$ Can. I know this because I asked my cousin living in Montreal to check the pricing at a local Acura dealer there. I was planning a trip around July 4th to visit my cousin and purchase the module in the process but had to cancel my travel plan due to scheduling.
Tim...Can I order this part from you? |
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| TheWorm |
Andrew,
Best I can tell based on the wiring diagrams and this thread this isn't as easy as on the Miata. In addition to the module, the wiring harnesses are different (more wires in the Cdn MDX to the e-brake, passenger control unit, and a gauge-cluster DRL light) plus there is an additional inline relay (high beam cutout) in the Cdn MDX. |
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| andrew |
quote:
Originally posted by TheWorm
Andrew,
Best I can tell based on the wiring diagrams and this thread this isn't as easy as on the Miata. In addition to the module, the wiring harnesses are different (more wires in the Cdn MDX to the e-brake, passenger control unit, and a gauge-cluster DRL light) plus there is an additional inline relay (high beam cutout) in the Cdn MDX.
Worm,
I understand your concern...But I'm still unconvinced that the wiring harness on Can. MDX is different. It just doesn't make any sense economically for Acura to change/add additional wiring harness. I could have asked my cousin to purchase and ship it over but I know I will get dinged by US Customer with the duty (happened to me in the past). Wish I live near the border like Seattle so I can just zip over to Vanc. BC to take a look at the module. Or maybe a Chilton Repair Manual with an electrical diagram would say it all but I haven't been able to find if the Chilton Manual is available yet. |
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| hondacuraworld |
This is the part where things get difficult. I have tried to figure out this puzzle a couple of times, but the problem that I run into is that I don't have Canadian parts catalog capabilities, so I don't know if the harnesses are different, firsthand....but Acura corporate tells me that they are indeed. The part number for the module isn't a good number in my system (the "C01" denoting a Canadian market only part in some instances).
Then again, if there is an easy way out of this with Acura parts, corporate certainly isn't going to tell me about it....their stance is and always has been that Acura vehicles are not designed to be modified and they're not going to help you do it, which is understandable in some circumstances.
We here in NY are a bit more used to switching on our lights when needed, so it isn't as big of a deal....it's the law that headlights must be on when wipers are in use. |
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| Todd Emme |
quote:
Originally posted by golfski
The DRL's on the Canadian version utilize the inside lamp of the headlight cluster (i.e. the High Beam lamp). It's at reduced power, obviously.
So unlike the DRL kit here, for Canadian MDX's, the high beams are on at reduced power when the DRLs are on? Wonder why they chose high beams? |
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| sven |
I actually don't understand why there isn't a law for DRL in the US. Many countries in Europe, e.g. Sweden, Norway, Denmark, Finland etc. have had DRL laws in place since the 70-ies. It is a fact that it reduces the crash risk.
Let's face it, how many times haven't you flashed your head lights at some dormant fellow driver coming at you at dawn on a rainy day without any lights at all...
I will try to convert my new MDX to DRL
cheers, |
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| TheWorm |
Well, we've had 'em operational for a few weeks now so I thought I'd give a quick update. I'm very happy with them, and have gotten over the initial disappointment that I had to fabricate some custom harnesses despite the manufacturer's claim to the contrary. The wire loom arrived about a week-and-a-half ago so the install is now clean and looks stock.
TheWife was following me in the MDX the other day and I noticed the MDX was significantly more visible on the types of roads I mentioned earlier, and the reduced-output headlight intensity was just right. I'm glad we have them.
Best way to describe it is pretty much akin to getting the MDX itself: the wait (and sometimes dealer experience) is difficult and sometimes grating-on-the-nerves, but after you get the car for a few days that's all forgotten and you're happy.
If and when I finally breakdown and retrofit a true HID kit, I'll move the DRLs to the foglights. |
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| Grape-Nutz |
| I'm accustomed to seeing "daylight test" road sections in more rural or desert areas, and I've come to appreciate the DRLs on my GTI. But, on a recent trip in the X to Arizona we ran into a 50-mile daylight test section, and turning on the headlights made the Nav screen get much darker and nearly unreadable. Does the DRL kit you installed cause the Nav screen to get dark, or otherwise bypass darkening the instrumentation? |
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| TheWorm |
Grapenutz,
The DRL kit has no effect on the instrument panel lights or Nav brightness - it's independent. FYI you can manually change the Nav screen brightness when you have your lights on during the day by pressing the SETUP button next to the clock. Just press "day" to force the brighter screen; you'll have to set it again to "auto" if you want it to dim when the headlights are on. |
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| Grape-Nutz |
quote:
Originally posted by TheWorm
...Just press "day" to force the brighter screen; you'll have to set it again to "auto" if you want it to dim when the headlights are on.
Dang, I gotta finish reading those manuals. Thanks, Worm. |
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| frostyra |
I'm not convinced that DRLs are all that helpful, from two personal observations:
1) Years ago, I was driving just before dusk with my low beams on, and an idiot pulled out from a side street right in front of me anyway. It took all I could do to keep from wrecking my car; at that moment, I didn't care too much about what happened to him. So does the visibility help? Maybe once in a while...
2) Often on a nearby Interstate, driving within 2 hours of dusk, I'll notice a vehicle with no rear lights. Almost invariably when I pass him/her, I'll notice that their DRLs are on; evidently, they see the reflection of the DRLs from the car ahead and think that their headlights are on. WRONG! (Jeez, don't they miss their dash lights?) |
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| krammer |
I disagree with using the high-beam lights for DRLs as most do in the US. You want to make your car more visible, but not at the expense of annoying other drivers. Many times I've found myself flashing my headlights at oncoming drivers (especially at twilight, ovecast days and foggy days) only to realize that they are DRLs. Also driving in the fog with high-beam directioned lights and no tail lights can't be the best way to go.
Some interesting info here:
http://www.lightsout.org |
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| taschroth |
I was able to get my fogs to come on with the ignition at about 1/2 brightness (6 volts) as daytime running lights and then go to full power whenever the headlights come on. A side effect is that the fogs stay on with the highbeams and if the car is running and if the headlights are on but the fog switch is off, they are still on the 1/2 power setting. (other words, if the igntion is on the fogs are on one way or the other)
Please don't ask for details on this mod is it was 8 months ago but basically I used 2 relays that created 2 separate fog circuits. One relay, activated by the ignition, shunts power to the fogs in series which effectively halves the voltage so they are running off 6 volts. This means they should not burn out much quicker even being on all the time. The other relay is activated by the headlight switch and takes out the 1st relay and let's a full 12volts go to the fogs. |
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| MDXHunter |
| Any updates for this thread. Has anyone installed Daytime Driving Lights (DRLs) for a U.S. MDX? |
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| TheyCallMeBruce |
quote:
Originally posted by MDXHunter
Any updates for this thread. Has anyone installed Daytime Driving Lights (DRLs) for a U.S. MDX?
Yep. Bought a reduced voltage DRL module and Audiovox headlight control unit from JC Whitney, almost a year ago. Finally completed the install just now. Studied the diagrams in the service manual for several hours to determine which lights I wanted for DRL, whether full or reduced power, and to simplify the wiring, and yet accomplish the several issues I wanted.
Full power DRL control to the fog lights, with over-ride. Decided not to go with reduced power after I bought the $25 module. Used a simple Bosch automotive relay instead, $6. It is very easy if I were to install a basic DRL, just a wire from ignition to the fog light switch. Getting it to turn off with both manual and automatic headlight turn-on is the trick. I accomplished this by wiring a relay that allows the fogs to function as DRL, but then shuts off and reverts to normal function when the headlights are on. Otherwise, it would always stay on regardless of the headlight condition if I didn't have this bypass relay. Over-ride turnoff switch added.
Twilight automatic headlight control was installed in a way that defeats the turn-off delay (every unit I found on the internet has an un-defeatable time delay of 30-90 seconds, which I don't like, people keep yelling about my lights being on when I walk away). I worked out a wiring mod to get the auto lights to turn off immediately with ignition off. Added over-ride switch for this also.
Lastly I jumped the fog light circuit so that the fogs can stay on with highbeams, if desired.
I've learned a way to attach wires without splicing into existing wiring, eliminating those bulky splice tap pieces, and causing no permanent marks on OEM harnesses. The only minor drawback to the entire endevor is that it takes about 3 seconds for the autolights to come on and turn off, but otherwise everything works as I intended. We'll see how things work out as I have more experience with the install.
Let me know if you have any specific questions. The wife sees me re-drawing schematics over and over, flipping through diagrams, tracing lines, and again she taunts me about her Lexus. Comes with both DRL and user-controllable auto lights, of course. She keeps asking me what's wrong with Acura. |
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| dcomdude |
quote:
Originally posted by TheWorm
For the DRL to operate, it needs to know when the car is running. The inductive ignition sensor wire (meant for a spark plug wire) is intended for that purpose. Since there is no spark plug wire, I had to find an "ignition hot" wire someplace under the hood. The best one I found is the black & yellow "ignition hot" wire leading to the underhood fuse/relay box (passenger side). This is the only readily available, reasonably safe-to-use "ignition on" wire under the hood. All of the fuses under the hood are always hot, so you can't use a fuse tap. BTW this was the only wire that required tapping for the install. It leads to the Engine Load Detector in the fuse box, which basically turns on your battery-alternator warning lamp if the alternator is malfunctioning. There are other "ignition on" wires under the hood, but they're primarily for safety items (e.g. ABS) so I didn't want to mess with tapping into those.
I'm trying to follow your instructions (thanks BTW), but this YLW/BLK wire isn't present on an 03 MDX (there are three other wires coming from the same spot on the fuse box, but they are different colors). Could someone post one or more schematics from the 03 MDX service manual showing the engine fuse box?
Also, I was able to reverse polarity for the 9006 connectors simply by taking the connector apart and reversing the pins (in the MDX's headlight connectors). This shouldn't hurt anything since the bulbs aren't polarity conscience. I should have taken pictures (but it was cold and rainy and I was in a hury). The hardest part is figuring out how the plastic center piece inside of the connector comes out. (It wasn't the cleanest approach, but a small jewellers screwdriver gently prying it outward a little at a time from both sides loosened it and then a pair of needle-nose plyers pulled it out.) After that, use a small common jewellers screwdriver to separate the pin from the housing while (gently) pulling the wire from the rear, and they should pop right out. |
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| bobholthaus |
Worm- I turned my wife's '06 MDX foglights into DRL's tonight by buying new harnesses for the fog light bulbs and then utilizing a standard relay for the power to the lights. As I needed an ignition on wire under the hood, I found your link and spliced into the yellow wire (which on my '06 is yellow with little gray circles on it). It works great, but the problem is that when I turn the car off, that wire stays live for about 8 minutes (I only timed it once tonight). I am uncertain if there are other times when it stays on longer, which would be a worry to me. I don't mind 8 minutes, but in the dead of winter, would 8 minutes of extra fog light time jeopardize my battery?
Just saw that there is a much easier hack using the fog light switch, which I might go back to (in order to be able to switch them on and off). Any updates on wire color? Thanks. |
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