| LionSpeed |
Per your request (rsgacura) & other members. Here are some of my personal tips for rewiring the "HOT" wire to your dead/malfunction courtesy (door) light. I have 2 doors went bad (4 months ago). Driver rear door completely dead. Passenger front door, light would not shut off but rather stay "DIMMED" forever.
Tools (I've used): a 12V test light ($5 at any hardware store), screw drivers, phillips, plier, scissor, hanger or thin wire (for hooking), regular electrical wire, electrical tape, black tubing.
Techique/experience: None. However, marg juice & some patience are always helpful. (hopefully you've got small arm >> I'll address this a bit later).
Before we start, I'd like to clarify a few things for you guys.
-You do not need to remove door panel. Do not need to unplug battery. I'm no electrician/technician so the terms I use here might be blah blah... Take these instructions at your own risk.
Steps (applied for both front & rear door).
1. Knowing the fact that your door light fixture (like any other 12v light) comes with POS & NEG wire, locate & pin point which is which by using the test light. Pry your BOTTOM door panel about 5-7 plastic clips. NEG is every where there is metal blah blah... Once you located the NEG, keep that one & cut the other BAD HOT WIRE.
2. Locate the little "push in" rubber door switch. This switch functions as 2 hot wires touch together (door open & light on)... This will be your main goal to reach.
3. Start removing the floor panel, the side wall panel by simply prying them out. Do not pry parts out more than you need. Just enought to get to the door switch HOT wire.
4. By this time you should see the SEAT BELT thing. Remove the 2 bolts (1 small 1 big). Doing this allow you some space for wiring/reaching purpose.
5. Now you are at the door switch itself (from behind). You should see the black electrical tape (like everywhere else), carefully remove the tape to expose the 2 wires. One is POS & NEG. Use the test light to determine which is POS. Once the POS is found, make a little slice & connect a blank wire to there. (Becareful, that wire is HOT all the time, don't touch to metal (NEG) or you might burn some fuse). Once connected, try to touch that new wire to the BAD DOOR fixture BAD HOT wire that you've cut out earlier. The light should be lid. Keep in mind (about 1 min or so depends on your setting), all interior light will be completely shut off. Just make a quick PUSH to the door switch & light should be back on.
6. Now that the light is working again (thanks to the new HOT WIRE), we would need to run that new wire neatly & securely along the side wall down to the floor, thru the rubber tube (door hinge area), thru the door panel & out to the fixture. Before running the new HOT wire, disconnect it from the switch, you DO NOT want your hot wire touching anything...
7. Let's start HOOKING. Use a fine thin hanger wire with bended head (to avoid sharp end) & start from the rubber tube. (This tube can be pried out by hand. Don't use tool unless you are careful... you could damage or puncture it). Start pushing the HOOK thru the rubber, thru the door panel. By this time you should see a milky plastic sheet in the middle, remove some area where you would need to put your (TINY ARM I HOPE) in there to catch the HOOK. Once you catch it, punch it thru the milky plastic & get it out thru the fixture light. Next step is to attach the NEW ELECTRICAL wire (which I've skinned it with black electrical tape) to the HOOK & start pulling it away.
8. Connect the NEW WIRE to the fixture. Tape the bad one that we cut out earlier. Run the NEW wire neatly on the floor along with a whole bunch of wires. Use black tubing or just marry goes round with black tape. Final step is to connect NEW WIRE to the HOT WIRE in door switch & you're done.
..... Jesus Christ. I hope I don't forget any steps for you guys. After all this is 4 months ago. Perhaps whoever done this can rewrite these steps more thoroughly. Good luck!
:29:
P.S. I'm painting my house, about 30% done. If you are in SoCal area, drop by & I'll do your door for free. In return just finish painting my house. Fair trade don't you think? :2: |
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| quyenph |
quote:
Originally posted by LionSpeed
Per your request (rsgacura) & other members. Here are some of my personal tips for rewiring the "HOT" wire to your dead/malfunction courtesy (door) light...
P.S. I'm painting my house, about 30% done. If you are in SoCal area, drop by & I'll do your door for free. In return just finish painting my house. Fair trade don't you think? :2:
Thanks LS, it is what I am ( and some members here) looking for. Very good instruction. If we live in the same town, I'll finish painting your house in exchange for this write-up. |
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| rsgacura |
| Hi LS, thx for the info. |
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| rsgacura |
Hi LS, Hope you are online today!!!
I am giving it a shot. Got the door bottom light out, I see a white and orange wires, Orange is what I sliced on to. From the door switch back, there is only one green wire going into door switch. Not two. If I slice onto it, the door light lights up dim, not full. Surprisibgly, if I touch the wire on body part which is negative, light comes on FULL, but stays forever whether I press the door switch button or not!!!
Please give me any more ideas what I am doing wrong. You can also call me at 678 438 9182 if you will. Thx |
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| LionSpeed |
quote:
Originally posted by rsgacura
Hi LS, Hope you are online today!!!
I am giving it a shot. Got the door bottom light out, I see a white and orange wires, Orange is what I sliced on to. From the door switch back, there is only one green wire going into door switch. Not two. If I slice onto it, the door light lights up dim, not full. Surprisibgly, if I touch the wire on body part which is negative, light comes on FULL, but stays forever whether I press the door switch button or not!!!
Please give me any more ideas what I am doing wrong. You can also call me at 678 438 9182 if you will. Thx
1. Sounds like you didn't cut the bad HOT wire from the fixture.
2. Regarding the door switch, you were refering as only ONE wire going into the switch, I honestly don't remember. This weekend, I'm going to help a member with a bad door light. Will take pictures, step by step & post later. |
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| rsgacura |
Thx LS,
I tried to use both the wires (white or orange, ofcourse 1 at a time), didn't make any diff. Yellow wire gives dim light, white nothing.
Any way, please post more info once you do it again this time! |
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| rsgacura |
Hi LionSpeed
Did you a get chance to help your friend and check out the steps again?
Please update with any more details. Appreciate it.
Thx
RSG |
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| LionSpeed |
quote:
Originally posted by rsgacura
Hi LionSpeed
Did you a get chance to help your friend and check out the steps again?
Please update with any more details. Appreciate it.
Thx
RSG
We had to reschedule because of the Black Friday's MADNESS. I had to paint my house (before it gets wet & cold). My friend (the member with the bad door switch) was too excited about the DEALS offered fr electronic stores.... So we had to postpone til later day. Will post when we start the process. |
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| rsgacura |
Ok, Thx. I went to dealer to get a B6 service, they need me to drop in next week to look at the light. and some paint chipping. + top two body panels above front driver side wheel are not aligned properly.
LS, please see if you can help your friend this week-end and post more info that way you help me before Dealer gets to it!!! Appreciate it. |
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| LionSpeed |
| rsgacura & other fellows. I have good news. We have a "fix the damn door switch" schedule this Sat 12-08-07. Will take pix & post right after. Stay tune! :1: |
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| rsgacura |
| mine is in shop today, will update with end results |
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| LionSpeed |
Oh, so I don't need to take pictures, since you've already brought it to the dealer?
Cool. Less work for me. :) |
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| rsgacura |
| Please help your friend and also take pix as it will help other members. I will update with any news from Dealer and possible other fix or important stuff to know |
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| rsgacura |
Guys are still struggling to figure out what went wrong.
LS, please get us some pixs. Looks like we should put a cautionary note on your light upgrade threads as more may get into trouble! |
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| LionSpeed |
quote:
Originally posted by rsgacura
Guys are still struggling to figure out what went wrong.
LS, please get us some pixs. Looks like we should put a cautionary note on your light upgrade threads as more may get into trouble!
When you say "Guys" you mean the mechanic technicians? ... If so tell them to come to LionSpeed Auto Shop where true crafsmanship is performed. Don't blaime on the LEDs, but rather the fautly door fr Acura. Some have e-mailed me who have had a few faulty door switches with "Stock" bulb. Hello. The rest of the peeps who tried the new LEDs never complained. Another Hello for you rsgacura.
It is obvious that after the fix (new wires), two of my bad doors came back to 100% functioned for over 5 months. This is including TWO times of exchanging to different LED types right after the FIX.
:rolleyes: |
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| rsgacura |
I meant the dealer mechanics or who ever is taking a look at the bulb thing now.
I know you are far better than them, atleast we got a solution. All I am saying is: You are the one came up with upgrades and had bulbs gone bad after, but, mentioned about yours gone bad too after me and one other member mentioned it. We need to list all the benefits and issues so if some one else ventures out on same path, atleast aware of the consequences if they chose to go for it. No Offense to you, we just need to be affront on what we post and how we affect other members if we have a side effect already seen.
Any way, we look forward to any more detailed steps you can post, that would be great. |
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| rsgacura |
Update from Service Rep: Mechanic thinks door relay is what gone bad. Part should come in tomorrow or so.
They fixed door paint chip, mis-aligned panel, Radio coming on after HFL hang-up so far.
Center Speaker buzz is due to be fixed once they get the required panel to mount the speaker on.
Two items pending and still driving loaner X. Just the interior is Ebony and doesn't have any extras I have: SRBs, BSMs, roof rack/cross bars, and no full size spare. Handles better than mine, brakes smooth too. Wonder if that additional weight is causing it or just need to be checked! |
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| Fabvsix |
Mind over matter !
Old saying:
Age doesn't matter.....as long as the matter doesn't age.......:1: |
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| rsgacura |
Finally got my X back today.
Light is fixed, it is to do with something behind the driver foot well Fuse box. Looks like something else other than the fuse box itself is burned out. Service rep told me it just burned out a part that effects the rear left door light!!!
Parts changed: 84650-STX-A02ZC Base L. YR292
38200-STX-A01 Box Assy. Fuse
Also got the Speaker rattle and HFL/Radio coming on TSBs done, sound system is clear now.
X got much better now!!!
Thanks to LionSpeed.
All, just be careful with changing lights as circuits/Fuse seems to be very gentle. Can't image changing bulb make something burn out! Are the LEDs that powerful?
I am not charged this time, but got warning not to mess with them any more! Came out with X paying $0 after lot of items being done. Bumper aligned better and paint chip touched up, etc. |
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| LionSpeed |
| As good as new but better. I'm talking about HARD-WIRED Connection, using a single wire only process. |
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| LionSpeed |
| Part II w/ Pix. |
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| rsgacura |
Thanks LS, for the pix. I am sure it would help other members too.
I have a question.
After I got my X back, I noticed my front driver door courtesy light stays ON all the time even when car is totally locked up. I thought dealer would fix it when they looked at back door light. They didn't closely look at front one. I complained only about back door light!!! It is tricky as one thinks the light came on as we open the door but it is really ON all the time!
I told them and showed/explained it again, they need it to be dropped in during next service as I don't want to go to them again this week! They loosened the bulb for now so it won't drain my battery!
Do you think I can fix it following your procedure? Same door, but symptoms are LIGHT STAYS ON ALL THE TIME FULL BRIGHT.
Thx |
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| LionSpeed |
MY PROCEDURE IS FOR E V E R Y T H I N G.
No light, light flickering, light stays on sometimes, light stays on ALL THE TIME, light takes a vacation, light takes a vacation from a vacation, light got too much too drink, light got too much caffein, installing a fresh new FIXTURE light, installing addition light on top... blah blah blah. Get the picture?
Good luck! :29:
P.S. This method BYPASSED all so-called relay switch garbage claimed by your car dealer. Hard wire/hardware switch has been used for years with no problem until they decided to use JUNKIE RELAY. After hardwired your door, that would be the last thing that goes OUT on your car. Got it?
This would the 3RD total doors I've fixed for 2 different MDXs.
Take these steps at your own risk. |
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| rsgacura |
Yeah, I agree with you.
Yet, I will let them handle next time as I got lazy and that light does not show from outside that much any way. When we open the doors, whole interior lights up and light falls outside too.
Looks like you stayed light night uploading and adding instructions to the pix, etc. Your effort is truely appreciated. Have a nice week-end. |
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| rsgacura |
Hi LS, my only concern to your method is:
In case in future for some reason, dealer or some one finds that relay which is what really burned out/gone bad and tries to fix it (during their some other diagnosis), it may send additional voltage to the bulb if we have our custom fix. Only we know that custom fix and not regular dealer technicians, so that is something we need to watch for. Hope not, but, what if? We disconnected wiring from relay right? With this fix, X is not a X like what Acura expects to see if they have to troubleshoot.
I agree that that stupid relay can be bypassed if it is that problematic and burn out on changing bulbs. |
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| rsgacura |
Well, I couldn't stop myself. I tried to do what your pix mentioned. Nice shots.
Did the green to pink wiring, now the light comes on, but, I have door open light on all the time on the dash board. When I press the door switch button, it does n't go off completely, it stays dim and door open light is on for driver side door.
I will remove the wiring and let Dealer fix it next time, will wait for you additional feedback till this afternoon. Thx
Please let me know if you smell anything more.
I removed seat belt, removed foam, sliced on to green wire at one end, fished the wire thru that hole cap (for now didn't put a hole in the cap) and attached to pink wire right at the light holder area with out removing the door panel. |
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| LionSpeed |
| Did you CUT the pink wire? That wire will no longer be needed. Connect the green to the Pink wire FROM THE FIXTURE. Try not to touch any wire to any metal surface. Sounds like you don't know what you're doing most of the time any way... You could burn fuses. Those damn fuses (may be you've already known), very expensive. |
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| rsgacura |
| Aha, I spliced onto the pink, didn't really cut it completely. Now it makes sense. Thx LS. Let me see if that makes it. |
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| rsgacura |
Thanks LS, I got it now.
All the bulbs are functional.
Just had to CUT old pink wire feed, connect GREEN to PINK going to fixture, last time I spliced on to it, system got confused.
How many did you say fixed over this week-end planned/unplanned? Check your count, you just added one more to it!!!! Appreciate your feedback.
Now I have one bulb fixed thru Relay fix and one thru LionSpeed fix. Both are verified and successful.
If dealer says warranty is not covered, Lionspeed is the man. If one wants to just get it done by themselves, again, LionSpeed is the man.
I think for rear doors, removing seat belt thing doesn't apply, just need to pull the rubber seal on the body to panels and get to the back of door switch. IS THAT CORRECT LionSpeed?
Thanks again |
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| edfire |
| If the door lights are out or the switches are going bd, then why not take it to the Acura dealer and get them to fix it for free? |
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| quyenph |
Thank You, LS. It's a great procedure that you provided. After reading your instruction, I think it is straight forward for me to do it. The main thing in this project is to cut the pink (neg.) wire from the fixture and connect the green (switch) wire to the fixture (where the bad pink wire was cut). It will bypass the relay. That's easy enough (I hope) for me to do it after work tonight.
rsgacura, glad you got your lights fixed by the dealership and yourself. Thanks for all info.
Regards,
quyenph |
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| rsgacura |
Good luck, yep, LS posted nice pix to follow. Easy and quick fix too.
I don't have to drop my X next time at oil change service, just can drive thru and get it done quick. Hate to drop it and go again next day to pick it. Too many trips.
Just last time I had to drop by Dealer 4 times: first to show it on Friday, they asked me to drop in Monday after doing B16 service while I waited (stupid me, I could have told them to do it Monday/Tuesday), dropped again on Monday evening, picked up on Thursday, went back to them on front driver light again, now LS procedure fixed it, I don't have to run around Dealers. |
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| rsgacura |
Edfire says:
If the door lights are out or the switches are going bd, then why not take it to the Acura dealer and get them to fix it for free?
__________________
1999 3.2TL
2007 MDX
I HATE TO GO TO DEALER FOR SOMETHING WE KNOW WE MESSED UP AND DAMAGED OURSELF. I HAD TO LET THEM SAY WHAT THEY CAN DO, FORTUNATELY, THEY DIDN'T COMPLAIN ON ME TAMPERING WITH LIGHTS! TO MAKE MY CASE STRONG, I TOLD SERVICE REP THAT I PAID $2500 MORE THAN WHAT TYPICAL NEW BUYERS ARE NOW PAYING SO DEALER SHOULD TREAT ME GOOD!!!. |
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