| 07aspenx |
| Does anyone know how I can safely remove touch-up paint without damaging the original paint on the car. I heard automotive lacquer thinner should work, but would like to know if anyone has come across this problem before. |
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| csmeance |
| Pick at it. What happened, used the wrong color or it didn't get on the way you wanted? |
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| 07aspenx |
quote:
Originally posted by csmeance
Pick at it. What happened, used the wrong color or it didn't get on the way you wanted?
Awhile back I posted on another thread that my X was keyed after just 2 days of being purchased. Long story short, I used touch-up paint to cover the scratch and it looked worst than before. I searched on google and they said to use automotive lacquer thinner. I was trying to if anyone knew of another product I could use before going this route. |
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| csmeance |
| sand paper would help minimize the damage done, and then follow up with some polish. What exactly is wrong, is it to much paint, to little, got on the factory paint, does not match???? If is raised or too low, you can wetsand it and be good. |
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| Needsdecaf |
| Try a clay bar. Never tried it on touch up paint, but it works on overspray so maybe it'll work. Worth a shot... |
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| mindmachine |
I have repaired many scratches just using the rubbing compound. The sandpaper method is much more aggressive and if you are not real careful you can easily do more damage. Sanding is definitely faster, but using just the 3M rubbing compound while slower gives you more control and more time to see when you should stop. I also use touch up paint if the scratch is deep.
In that case I touch up first, let the paint dry throughly like at least 24 to 48 hours and them use the rubbing compound the reduce the touch up paint down the level with the surrounding paint level. The touch up paint comes off fairly fast compared to the original paint the surrounds it. Sometimes if the scratch is real deep I have to apply a second or third coat of touch up between each use of rubbing compound, especially with metal flake paint, this is necessary to get the touch up to match. The touch up must be mixed very well by shaking for longer than you think should be necessary. If you shake it long enough it should match, assuming you bought OEM touch up.
Also in your case the I would remove the touch up with rubbing compound, tape of the area where you want the touch up removed with masking tape, I mean right up to the touch up, then use the rubbing compound to remove it.
Good luck, be careful and go easy until you see how fast the compound is cutting.
I use 3M fine rubbing compound.
Also I highly recommend not using the sanding paper as it is very aggressive and it is easy to go too far. |
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| shootist |
I disagree about using fine rubbing compound on the MDX. You will see the scratches inteh clear coat.
Don't use lacquer thinner! That stuff will eat through down to the frame rails.
Try a lubricated clay bar from Zaino first. that might just do it. You could also try something like an All in One polish after clay bar.
If nothing works, and you're willing to have the panel repainted anyway, try 1200 or higher grit sandpaper, with running water. 600 will leave a patch of damage. |
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| Needsdecaf |
quote:
Originally posted by shootist
I disagree about using fine rubbing compound on the MDX. You will see the scratches inteh clear coat.
Don't use lacquer thinner! That stuff will eat through down to the frame rails.
Try a lubricated clay bar from Zaino first. that might just do it. You could also try something like an All in One polish after clay bar.
If nothing works, and you're willing to have the panel repainted anyway, try 1200 or higher grit sandpaper, with running water. 600 will leave a patch of damage.
Not rubbing compound as in the traditional, "No. 7" rubbing compound, but a fine machine or hand polish can work well. I have tried Griot's hand polish, don't like it, not aggressive enough. I myself like 3M imperial hand glaze. Works very well in getting out light scratches from the clear coat.
A full "rubbing compound" is too aggressive. |
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| sigp228 |
Use 3m adhesive and wax remover. You can find the big cans for about 10 bucks in a paint supply store. If not, they sell the same exact thing at pepboys, advance auto, etc for a smaller size for the same money. Will take off wax, touchup paint, bugs, etc without damaging the original OEM paint. If it is repainted panels do not use it. Also do not get it on rubber, plastic, etc as it may damage them.
http://solutions.3m.com/wps/portal/...PglGSXXHHTMDNbl |
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| mindmachine |
I have used 3M extra fine rubbing compound to remove scratches on numerous vehicles with dark colored metallic paint and it does not leave scratches. !!! If anything will leave scratches it would be the sand paper even extra fine paper is hard to keep lubricated, the rubbing compound is lubricated by its very nature, the cutting particles are suspended in lubricant.
No matter what you use if it has a cutting action you have to be careful to stop in time.
As for solvents , I personally would not use them as they will dissolve the the touch up and in the process dull the surrounding area that you touch with it also. So you will have to re-polish any unintended areas of contact with the solvent. Extra fine 3M rubbing compound to re polish any dulled clear coat.
Rubbing compound is what the body shops use to blend repair work too!!!
:shizhap: |
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| Needsdecaf |
quote:
Originally posted by mindmachine
Rubbing compound is what the body shops use to blend repair work too!!!
A very good body shop is where I was first introduced to 3M imperial hand glaze. |
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