| mgmdx |
I have successfully installed Yakima tracks (permanent installation) and roof rack (railrider towers and crossbars) on my base MDX. I now have a versatile and fully adjustable alternative to the factory base carrier that allows me to use all of my Yakima accessories to carry bikes, skis, etc.
Because the crossbars are adjustable on the tracks, I was able to position them further back compared to the fixed Acura base carrier which greatly reduced roof rack wind noise.
If anyone is interested in this type of installation, let me know and I will provide the details. |
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| cardingtr |
| Can you provide us with pictures? I'm considering aftermarket roofracks too. |
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| mcclendons |
Please let me know any details on install, either here or by mail at McClendons2@home.com.
I installed the factory rack, but moved the back rack to the rear (spaced about 45 inches apart). That way, I can use to carry a Kayak, but may be too far for skis. Your approach sounds great. Main questions, could you use the original "studs" in MDX or did you have to drill?
Thanks |
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| sars |
Dear mcclendons
I'm very interested in your post. I await delivery of my 02, where the factory racks are even closer together than the 01. So close in fact that they look useless for carrying my windsurfers.
There is no way I want the Thule clamp on type.
What is involved in moving the factory racks, do you have to drill into the roof, or is there a hidden track ? Details please
I'd also like to see the Yakima details, even if its just a URL link to the yakima web site showing the specific mounts
Thanks
Sars |
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| sven |
| I would def. be interested in seeing some pictures and instructions as well. price would be nice to. thanks in advance. |
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| mgmdx |
The original grooves and factory bolts could not be used. Yakima tracks are wider than the factory grooves and use different type of attachments, so I had to drill new holes in the roof to attach Yakima tracks.
Although I have successfully performed this type of installation on my previous SUV (Pathfinder), I was a little hesitant about drilling the roof of the MDX because Yakima does not have fit specifications for it at this time. Some careful research was needed to ensure that I would not cause any damage to my MDX.
Prep work:
I first obtained wiring diagrams from the dealer that showed where the wiring harnesses for the sunroof and dome lights run through the roof. I also looked at a page in 2001 MDX brochure showing the schematic of the MDX body structure and roof braces. In addition, I peeled back the flexible trim around the sunroof and looked under the headliner to see what the roof structure looks like under the headliner. All of the above steps allowed me to determine if there were any obvious obstacles to this type of installation. There did not seem to be any.
Installation process:
I placed 42" Yakima tracks on each side of the roof, just on the inside of factory grooves. I used masking tape to carefully measure and layout the position of each track. I then marked hole location and drilled six holes for each track. Plus-nut hardware was then inserted into each hole and tightened using a special tool provided in the package. The plus-nuts are compressed on the inside of the roof, and the tracks can then be attached to them using supplied screws.
Final steps:
Once the tracks were installed, I attached Yakima railriders and cross bars to the tracks. This setup allows the use of all Yakima accessories/attachments as well as attachments from other manufacturers.
Additional notes:
- The tool supplied by Yakima to tighten the plus-nuts is not very good. It is very brittle, for some reason. Mine broke (snapped at threads) twice, so I had to go back to the retailer where I bought the tracks to get the replacement tool on two separate occasions. I was able to finish the job with the second replacement tool.
- While I used 42" tracks, 54" tracks are also available if you need your cross bars to be spread apart farther than approximately 40".
- If you prefer Thule racks over Yakima and/or already have Thule cross bars (square) and accessories/attachments, I believe Thule also makes towers similar to Yakima's railriders that are compatible with Yakima tracks.
I will post some pictures as soon as I get a chance to take them. |
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| MDXplosion |
Definitely post pics, i would like to see this setup. Even though I know for a fact that I would have it installed for me since I am too chicken :p **** to drill into the roof...lol....
I am expecting a 02 X and would like to perform this install....look forward to seeing your pics |
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| mcclendons |
Sars,
My problem was much like yours, did not want the clamp ons I could find so I bought the Acura one. When I pulled the covers off the Acura roof and set the racks on, I was amazed at close they were on an 01. No way was it going to carry a 2 person Kayak. Weight is about 65 pounds, but length is about the MDX. So an issue here.
Since you asked what I did......I first give a disclaimer. This is not the way Acura said to install the back rack, nor can I guarantee no problems......but I belive it is more than strong enough and far stronger than my old explorer rack! For use carrying reasonable loads I can't see any problems. I do hope to find some tracks that will fit the grooves though down the road. In other words, do not sue me.........
When I pulled the covers from the two "gutters" on the roof, I saw the four expected studs sticking up for mounting of the rack. Each stud is medium sized, and well welded into roof. I ALSO noticed single studs at the front of the trough and at the very back. I then noticed that the base of the rack is sturdy metal, and rested very well into trough. An idea hit, could I move the back rack to the back studs (and just tighten with one stud per side vs two). On first try, I saw that the rack is too wide, as the troughs go closer together as they go back. I unscrewed the end of the rack off, cut 1 inch from the cross member, and put back together. Perfect fit in the troughs now. I bolted the front rack as described, then did the back rack with just the one stud. Final step was cutting the trough cover to fit. It is one long piece on MDX, and the instructions give cut lengths fro the "factory" install. Since my lengths were different, I measured leaving enough of the covers to fit slightly under the rack bases. Installed the covers, bolted the bases down as described, and pulled on the racks. Back one feels as sturdy as front. Bottom line, no modification to the car (no roof holes). If I pull the racks off or go to original locations, the only new part is the trough cover.
Looks original, no drilling to car, and seems very sturdy. Considering the length of my Kayak, allot safer than trying to use the rack too close together. But once again, my thoughts and my taking the chance with no factory install..........Picture below to give idea of spacing. Good for boards, may be a little long for Skis, have not tried yet. |
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| mcclendons |
| Sorry, here is the PIC |
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| mgmdx |
mcclendons,
Your solution for carrying long loads (like kayaks) on a modified factory roof rack appears to be usable, provided the rear cross bar is secure enough and assuming you do not need any extra attachments to secure the kayak to the factory cross bars. Unfortunately, it looks like it will not work for carrying bikes and/or skis.
Are those sportwing moldings on your GG MDX or are they Acura moldings from Tim? I ordered mine from Tim recently, and your picture gives me an idea of what they will look like on my Granite Green MDX. |
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| mcclendons |
mgmdx
You are probably right about the bike/ski issue on the rack. I belive the skis might make it....a bike rack??????? But for a kayak it is a great spacing and the back rack is as far back as it can be. those were my two main issues. I was just unsure about drilling through the roof, and knew the original rack spacing was a joke. I am hoping someone will come out with tracks that fit the original gutters, until then.... One question on you mount though, what is used to keep the drilled holes from leaking? Would assume they have rubber "gaskets" for the bolts, but in case I have to go that way.....
My door guards are the sportwings. When I ordered mine, there was no sure date on the GG availability, and I did not wait until I had big dents. Am very happy with them, but would be nice if there were a little more tailored at the front (like the Acura ones). very minor gripe though. |
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| mgmdx |
quote:
...One question on you mount though, what is used to keep the drilled holes from leaking? Would assume they have rubber "gaskets" for the bolts...
mcclendons,
The size of the drilled hole is the same as the plus-nut that you insert into it. You are also correct in that there are rubber washers inserted on the plus-nuts. In addition, silicone included in the package is used prior to inserting the plus-nuts into the holes to ensure that there are no leaks.
As I mentioned in an earlier post, I have done the same type of installation on my previous SUV (Pathfinder). I have been using this setup with no problems whatsoever for the last 7+ years to carry bikes, skis, and other miscellaneous loads. |
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| mgmdx |
| Picture 1 of 3 - roof rack overview |
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| mgmdx |
| Picture 2 of 3 - roof rack closer view |
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| mgmdx |
| Picture 3 of 3 - roof rack detail |
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| A2MDXer |
| Wow, great job on this, mgmdx! I don't need a solution until the spring (hello, Yakima or Thule, please come up with a factory adapter!!) but this install is brilliant. If nothing changes before then, I may follow your instructions. Thanks. |
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| WhtMnts |
I have installed these same Yakima tracks on my previous truck cap. This solution worked great for adjusting the Yakima load bars back and forth to allow for different load types.
After looking at your pictures I can see that you chose the shorter tracks. I was hoping that you had the longer tracks that would accommodate enough forward slide for a large roof box carrier like the Yakima Mountaineer. I want to do some measuring to see if I can mount longer tracks so I can mount a large roof box more forward on my MDX and still open the rear hatch without hitting the rear wind spoiler. |
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| mgmdx |
WhtMnts,
As I mentioned in one of the above posts, longer 54" tracks are also available from Yakima if you need your bars to be spread apart further than approximately 40".
Because 42" tracks are sufficient for me, I did not investigate possible obstacles in the MDX roof for installing longer tracks. Although the installation procedure is similar, additional investigation and prep work is required to ensure that there are no problems (since front portion of longer tracks will run parallel to the sunroof).
If you do decide to install longer tracks, be sure to peel back the flexible headliner molding around the sunroof and pull down the headliner to verify that the drilling and attachment for the longer tracks will not interfere with the sunroof mechanism or other wiring.
Also, if you slide the tracks further back on the roof (closer than approximately 9" from the back edge of the MDX), be sure to verify that the drilling and attachment for the track will not interfere with the 3rd row seat belt mechanism which recoils into the pillars close to the roof.
Good luck. |
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| cr |
A2MDXer--
I installed the Thule 889 Rack Pack about 5 mos. ago on my Touring MDX and it works great, I will post photos shortly,
but it basically has a front bar that mounts above the front roof rack bar (quite easily). Then the Bike rails attach to that bar and attach to the rear roof rack rail. It goes on quite simply.
I recommend www.agees.com , they have great prices, also, check out www.thule.com |
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| A2MDXer |
Thanks, cr,
I think I remember a post about this. Thanks for the reminder. I think I checked the Thule site before and it indicated that this would not work with the MDX. Now the site indicates that it does work.:p
I guess my only questions are 1) do you think this solution is just as solid/stable as a typical setup? and 2) does the attaching clip connect in such a way that the trays cannot be removed from the factory rack without keys (or at least abnormal tools)? Thanks, I would love to see the pics when you have a chance. |
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| WhtMnts |
This still does not allow you to slide the bars forward on the roof. You are still restricted to the set distance between the factory racks below your added Thule Rack Pack mount. I agree that this Thule solution does give you more accessory solutions for Thule products, but to me it just adds extra height and noise to the factory rack solution. I would prefer to remove the factory rack and replace completely with lower less obtrusive track solution in that case.
I need a solution that will allow me to slide the cross bars forward on the roof so I can carry one of the longer Yakima or Thule boxes on top. I was forced to mount my box this summer on the factory bars for a family weekend camping trip. The rear hatch would only open a small amount before the wind spoiler would hit the back of the box. Even though I was careful to rest the spoiler against the box, the pressure and movement of the rear hatch still managed to scratch the surface of my spoiler. |
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| mgmdx |
Although Thule factory rack adaptors may allow the use of variety of existing Thule attachments, there are several serious deficiencies to this setup:
1. The addition of the adaptors and Thule bars on top of the factory rack will increase the loading height by about 4 to 6 inches, thus making it more difficult to load cargo and limiting / restricting access into your garage.
2. This setup will not provide a solution for adjusting the distance between the cross bars for load carrying flexibility.
3. Security may also be an issue since the adaptors do not appear to be locked to the factory rack.
4. Increased noise due to increased rack height should also be taken into consideration.
If the above items are not significant obstacles in your case, than this may be the right solution. |
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| A2MDXer |
| Good points on both fronts. The Yakima choice (mgmdx) gives more flexibility and is a more finished look. On the other hand, it is a daunting task for an amateur and cr's solution is easier. I guess it depends on individual needs. I only need bikes so I might go with the 889. Just a note that cr posted pics of the 889 solution in another thread. Great work by both of you. |
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| MaD-X |
I also have a Thule Rack pack for my mt bike. Although this works great for carrying bikes, it's practically useless for other things (like cargo boxes). What I really mean is that rack pack was designed to carry only bikes, but the problem is that you can't carry anything else on your rack with this system on. I was looking at the Thule boxes awhile back, and you can't install a Thule box with the rack pack together (it's either one or the other - just not enough room up there). Plus, I have the tailgate deflector which touches the box on the rear end.
The setup that mgmdx has, by far, is the best I've seen so far on MDX. I'm getting very tempted to do this. Yakima Q towers are placed way too close to the front of the car that my sunroof will become useless with a box on top (plus I really don't like that design). One ? I have for mgmdx is how bad is the wind noise with your setup? Is it a lot worse than the factory roof rack? I've noticed an increase in wind noise with the Rack pack, but it doesn't really bother me that much. Thanks for the photos. |
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| mgmdx |
quote:
... One ? I have for mgmdx is how bad is the wind noise with your setup? Is it a lot worse than the factory roof rack? ...
MaD-X,
I believe my roof rack setup is actually a little quieter compared to the factory rack (based on my recollection of driving the Touring MDX with factory roof rack during a test drive vs. driving my MDX with the current Yakima setup). I believe that this is the case because my front cross bar is positioned farther back (from the moonroof) compared to the factory cross bar, which results in less wind noise.
Also, I have the option of adding a Yakima fairing to further reduce the wind noise. I plan on trying this in the next several weeks to see if it makes any difference and to determine whether I like the way it looks on my MDX. |
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| MaD-X |
Having the wind fairing will be good in your case since your front crossbar sits behind the moonroof. The fairing shouldn't coverup the moonroof, which is such an improvement over the Yakima setup with the Q towers.
One anther question I had for you was did you drill your holes through some frames underneath the roof? If your tracks are screwed just to the sheetmetal on the roof, it wouldn't be that stable?? I guess I'm not completely understanding how "plus-nut hardware" really works. Thanks again for sharing this with us. |
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| mgmdx |
quote:
...One anther question I had for you was did you drill your holes through some frames underneath the roof?...
MaD-X,
Although I already knew the answer based on my previous installation, I contacted Yakima technical support to confirm the same question you raise prior to installing the tracks.
I did not drill the holes through the frame. As a matter of fact, I tried to avoid drilling through the roof supports by doing some "prep work" as indicated in an earlier post. The reason for not drilling through the roof beams is that they are spaced 0" to 3/4" (depending on location) from the roof sheetmetal. The supplied plus-nut hardware is not long enough to extend beyond the roof supports so it will not compress underneath them. Drilling through roof supports may also weaken them so you should avoid doing this by using a "limiter" on the drill bit as indicated in the installation instructions.
quote:
...If your tracks are screwed just to the sheetmetal on the roof, it wouldn't be that stable??...
Factory roof mouldings on the MDX cover the groove on each side of the roof. Underneath, this actually creates a U-shaped channel. I installed Yakima tracks just on the inside of this channel, so the attached tracks are extremely stable because they are supported not only by the horizontal roof sheetmetal but also by the vertical side of this "U-channel" that is part of the roof support underneath.
quote:
...I guess I'm not completely understanding how "plus-nut hardware" really works...
I will post some "before" and "after" pictures of the plus-nut hardware, and will explain how they work. |
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| mgmdx |
quote:
...I guess I'm not completely understanding how "plus-nut hardware" really works...
MaD-X,
See attached picture. Hope this helps. |
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| MaD-X |
That looks great. Thanks so much for the info. I really want to do this now. I should be able to do this without removing my almost useless factory racks, correct?
Also, if you don't mind me asking, how much did this whole setup cost you? Now I'm really excited because this is exactly what I have been looking for. I may go with longer tracks though, since I think it'll work better for cargo boxes. I'll talk to Acura techs next time I'm in for service to see if longer tracks will interfere with anything around the moonroof. Thanks again. |
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| mgmdx |
quote:
...I should be able to do this without removing my almost useless factory racks, correct?...
MaD-X,
Although theoretically it may be possible to install Yakima tracks without removing your factory roof rack, it will probably get in the way during installation. I think it will be much easier to perform the installation with the factory rack removed.
quote:
...Also, if you don't mind me asking, how much did this whole setup cost you?...
Since I already had Yakima crossbars and railrider towers (as well as bike and ski carrier attachments) that I used on my previous SUV, I only had to purchase new tracks. The retail price on these is $120. I bought them on sale at 10% off, so it cost me $108.
If you start from scratch, the cost (at retail prices) for the entire setup should be as follows:
42" Tracks - $120
Locking Railrider Towers - $110
48" Cross bars - $ 40
SKS Lock Cores (4) - $ 38
------------------------------------------
TOTAL (at MSRP) = $308
TOTAL (estimated "street price") = $250
If you search on the internet (or buy the components on sale) you should be able to get them at discounted prices. I recently saw Yakima equipment advertised on sale at REI at 20% off. I also came across some web sites that offered 10% to 20% off on Yakima stuff, so realistically, this setup should cost you approximately $250. |
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| mgmdx |
| Picture showing the placement for 42" Yakima tracks is attached below. |
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| jmh |
Mark,
How many of the plus nuts did you install? I finally got the tracks and counted 8 holes per track and noticed in an earlier post that you drilled 6 holes. If the front hole is position 1 and the rear most is position 8 which holes did you avoid and why?
Thanks again,
John |
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| mgmdx |
jmh,
I used 6 plus nuts to attach each track. 3 outer holes on each end of the track (hole positions 1,2,3, and 6,7,8) were used, with 2 middle holes (hole positions 4 and 5) remaining unused.
The reason for using outermost holes only is that to be useful, the railrider towers and crossbars should be spread approximately 16" to 40" apart. In this configuration, most of the stress will be placed on the outer ends of the tracks, so there is no need for drilling additional holes and attaching tracks in the middle.
The tracks have 8 holes because they are designed to be a universal application for many SUVs and cars. While for different vehicles other hole configurations may work better, I think that the 3 outermost hole locations on each side work best for attaching the tracks to the MDX roof.
Let me know if you have any other questions. Good luck. |
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| FamilyMDX |
mgmdx,
Do you think that drilling the Yakima Track to match the existing studs on the MDX would be safer than drilling through the roof?
I guess the stud may be in the way for the attachments but we can try avoid that area.
I can see that the width of the Yakima rods is adjustable.
Could you confirm that please? |
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| mcclendons |
Family,
I understand from a previous post that the tracks are too wide to fit in the MDX channels, and therefore would not fit the MDX lugs. Would be interesting if this is wrong:eek: , or if there are any other channel options that might work--i.e I believe the tracks on my old Explorer were fairly narrow.
MGMDX, please let us know if I am wrong on the Yakima tracks |
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| mgmdx |
FamilyMDX,
mcclendons is absolutely correct in that the tracks are too wide to fit the MDX roof channels. Subsequently, the existing studs are too short to reach the Yakima tracks.
Even if the studs were long enough, the four mounting locations (for each track) that they provide would not be sufficient to securely hold the tracks down. Additional attachment would be needed to ensure that the tracks can adequately support the weight of the loads being carried. This would be a difficult proposition, given that there is no easy access to the roof underside below the roof channels.
quote:
Do you think that drilling the Yakima Track to match the existing studs on the MDX would be safer than drilling through the roof?
I am not sure what you mean by "safer". I think what's important in this type of installation is the end result that meets the following objectives:
- The rack is installed without damaging the MDX
- The rack allows you the flexibility and security to safely carry variety of equipment on the roof of the MDX
I believe that both of the above objectives have been met in this case.
quote:
I can see that the width of the Yakima rods is adjustable. Could you confirm that please?
If you are referring to the width of the cross bars, they are "adjustable" to the extent that the specific car/SUV allows. What I mean is that the usable width of the cross bar is heavily dependent on the placement of the towers that support it which, in turn, depends on the width of the car (or placement of the tracks in this situation). In addition, different length cross bars are available to meet a variety of needs.
Hope this answers your questions and concerns. Let me know if you need any additional information. |
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| FamilyMDX |
Thanks Mgmdx,
I think you answered all my concerns. Actually, I was trying to find other ways of mounting the Yakima Rack without drilling the roof of this $42,000 vehicle. My neighbor had the Yakima track on his Ford expedition and he gave my the rack before selling his SUV to try it on the MDX. After realizing that the only way to mount this track is drilling, I think that a Bike Rack from Tim will be the way to go. :o
Thanks again MGMDX |
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| yuppiescum |
I may have missed it earlier in this thread, so forgive me if anyone else has already mentioned, but after looking at some of the photos and notes here (and realizing that I don't have a free weekend between now and the end of ski season), I decided to just have the guys at the "Sports Rack" do the install of my 54" Yakima rails which they did in about an hour.
So far, I'm quite impressed and pleased with the work they did. They do give a lifetime guarantee to their work, so as far as I'm concerned, it was well worth the $120 labor charge. My '02 was fairly quiet to begin with and the Yakima does not seem to create any new noise.
Finally, a couple of notes - if you have to remove the original factory rack, you'll note that the moulding comes up in three pieces on each side. They are rather flimsily attached without the factory rack (particularily the center piece), so make sure you remove those as well when you take the factory rack off and you won't lose them to the elements. I believe that you can also order the base moulding to fit in the gutter (as if you never had a factory rack) which should also cover up the exposed factory rack bolts nicely.
'scum |
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| Jorge |
Come on you all,
Tell me if you have notice a big increase in wind noise as a result of installing the roof rack.
If so, how does it compare to other SUV's with roof racks.... |
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| NaNaLi |
| We should have enough people to send a request to manufaturers to design TRACKS that will fit on the MDX's channel. If they see enough people requesting, pretty sure they will consider manufacturing narrower tracks. How 'bout a Word document with this request and we all put our signatures/E-mail addresses (ala petition). Any volunteers? I myself is not to comfortable drilling HOLES on the roof of $40,000 vehicle. Pretty sure what MgMDX did was safe and leak free install. I already had a hard time drilling those Tailgate deflector holes and they were pre marked. |
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| WhtMnts |
Yuppiescum,
I believe you are the first to install the longer 54" tracks on the MDX? Did these 54" tracks extend beside the moonroof? I am still looking for help on installing longer tracks to gain the needed flexibility. If I think it is possible, I will pay to have someone professionally install them for me.
I had long tracks on my previous truck cap and could slide the Yakima bars forward and back different distances apart to accommodate almost any size item or attachment (large gear boxes, canoes, lumber, mattress/box springs, platform to stand on, etc...). Longer tracks on the MDX would also allow me to move some of these longer items more forward on the roof, specifically the long gear boxes, so I can still open the back hatch(w spoiler) all the way.
Could you please post pictures of the longer tracks on your MDX? |
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| mgmdx |
quote:
...I decided to just have the guys at the "Sports Rack" do the install of my 54" Yakima rails which they did in about an hour...
I guess "Sports Rack" finally learned how to install Yakima tracks on the MDX.
In October, when I was doing the research for installing the tracks on my MDX, they told me that they would not even attempt installation because Yakima did not have a recommended fit for the MDX. I did the research myself (see previous posts in this thread, if interested), bought 42" Yakima tracks from "Sports Rack", and installed them myself.
For those MDX owners who are mechanically-challenged and/or hesitant about drilling the holes in the MDX roof to install the tracks, "Sports Rack" is a good alternative to self-installation. |
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| WhtMnts |
mgmdx,
Sorry, missed your earlier documentation on your 42" track installation. Looks great. Also, nice Rockhopper. Can't wait to through my new Trek Fuel up there.
I have installed the 60" tracks on two fiberglass truck caps in the past, but I am still a little nervous about drilling into my MDX. No "Sports Rack" in this part of the country. After looking at your pictures though, I think I am comfortable about doing the work myself. However, I think I will need to go with the longer 54" tracks.
Thanks again for the details. |
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| mgmdx |
WhtMnts,
"Sports Rack" is the same company as "Gear On The Go". Perhaps they have a location in your area if you decide not to do the installation yourself.
My Rockhopper has served me well in the last 6+ years. I like it alot, but the time has come to upgrade to something newer, better, and lighter. I have narrowed my choices down to either a Specialized - Stumpjumper FSR XC, Santa Cruz - Superlight X, or a Trek - Fuel 90. I will test ride all three bikes later this spring and will decide which one to get.
Good luck with the installation. |
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| gerrypez |
yuppiescum,
Which Sports Rack in the Bay Area did your install of the 54" tracks - I would like to do the same.
Pez |
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| TheyCallMeBruce |
quote:
Originally posted by WhtMnts
mgmdx,
Sorry, missed your earlier documentation on your 42" track installation. Looks great. Also, nice Rockhopper. Can't wait to through my new Trek Fuel up there.
I have installed the 60" tracks on two fiberglass truck caps in the past, but I am still a little nervous about drilling into my MDX. No "Sports Rack" in this part of the country. After looking at your pictures though, I think I am comfortable about doing the work myself. However, I think I will need to go with the longer 54" tracks.
Thanks again for the details.
If you can't find a rack specialty install shop, might I suggest going to a place that installs sunroofs. They have experience in pulling headliners and drilling through car roofs.
If you do the work yourself, and you use the plusnuts, you don't actually have to drop the whole headliner, just around a few edges to locate and inpect obstructions for the drill points. Probably only need to remove the rear grab handles and soft rubber trim molding. |
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| wckrause |
| I had my Yakima tracks installed by a body shop. I first went to two places that specialize in aftermarket accessories. The first place fsaid that they'd do the work, but then backed out. The second place wanted $400. The body shop did it for me for $200, and gave me a life-time warrantee on their work. |
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