| Emerald01 |
Dose the Polb GNX 10" sub come in a Dual voice coil or is everyone who uses this sub buy the single (4 ohm) version?
I'm considering getting them from Crutchfield who has them on sale for 2 for the price of one (SVC 4ohm). But only want one. Maybe I could split it with someone here. Or I may try to see if someone will match their price.
What are they tipically priced at? What would be a good deal on them? |
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| DaleB |
I just bought the 4 ohm version about 2 months ago, for $70. I wish now I had waited for the 2 ohm.
But I have not even tried it yet, hope to have a adapter made by next week then I will install it. I also am adding a 100Hz low pass filter (12db rolloff from Parts Express). |
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| Emerald01 |
Thanks Dale for the reply. I didn't say it came in a 2 ohm version. I was wondering if there was one.
Where did you get it for $70? With Crutchfield's deal the price is about the same. |
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| DaleB |
To be honest I don't remember. I thought it was millionbuys.com
I can't find the receipt right now. I am sure it was $70 with shipping. Net price was $56.
Yes, if you search some recent topics by mushman you will learn of the 2 ohm version. Actually, it is 2 or 4 ohm version. |
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| Mushman |
The 2 ohm Polk GNX is also referred to as the dual voice coil. This can be wired in either a 2, 4, or 8 ohm configuration.
I know because I installed this in a 2 ohm configuration and it is AWESOME.
Mushman |
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| DaleB |
| All right, I got the Polk GNX installed. The bass is noticeably better. Probably even better (more efficient) with the 2 ohm version. I am using the 4 ohm version with a 100 Hz filter. |
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| DaleB |
| Here is the spacer I had made from 1/2" plexiglas. I countersunk the speaker mounting holes so they would be flush to the auto body mounting surface. I just used machine screws with washers and nuts on the speaker side. I used 1" screws are fine. (I used 8X32). |
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| Maik |
quote:
Originally posted by DaleB
All right, I got the Polk GNX installed. The bass is noticeably better. Probably even better (more efficient) with the 2 ohm version. I am using the 4 ohm version with a 100 Hz filter.
Can you post pictures? Especially interested in the adapter ring. Did you make one or did you have it made? What is it made out of?
We need details Dale!
PS...That should be good for a few posts! |
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| DaleB |
Just before assmebling speaker to spacer, I put down a layer of RTV caulking
to seal the speaker to the spacer to make it airtight. I only used Dynamat between the spacer and the auto body sheet metal. Note the outer 4 holes at the corners match up with the stock speaker location. |
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| DaleB |
| here is the 100 Hz filter between the amp output wires and the speaker. I wrapped it in soft foam and stuck it down deep in the lower speaker cavity. You can see my carabiner key chain rings I use in place of the factory cargo net clips. Much easier to use. |
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| DaleB |
Completed, as in finished. Tomorrow back to the reverse-aid alarm.
See the shadow at the top just to the right of center? There is a small hole in the body to locate the factory sub. This hole needs to be sealed with a small piece of Dynamat from the backside of the body panel.
I used metric screws to match the factory mtg. bolts. They need to be longer.
I used M5X25 Pitch .8 with M5 washers. |
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| DaleB |
My original and poor drawing. I do not include mtg. hole dimensions. The ones on the body I marked, and the ones for the speaker, well, use the template with the speaker you have to get it correct.
A 10 1/2 " square perfectly centered over the 11" donut will give you the flats you need to cut off. The inside hole is 9 1/4" but may vary with the speaker you happen to use. |
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| Maik |
Thanks for the details...looks like I now have my marching orders for my next project!
Dale, how much of an improvement in overall sound? Is it as significant as the door upgrade? |
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| DaleB |
No not as significant but I think you need to put it in perspective. Deep bass is not something you hear all the time.
When it is there, it does sound much better. |
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| AcuraPhile |
DaleB,
Are you using the factory amp to power this? |
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| DaleB |
| Yes, I am not at the stage of messing with the amps. Not sure I will be. I spent enough at home on electronics. |
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| AcuraPhile |
| Thanks DaleB, that's exactly what I wanted to hear. Makes for an easy and not too expensive upgrade. |
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| Emerald01 |
Hey Dale,
How critical was the spacer depth dimension? Would a 3/8" spacer work as well for the Polk GNX10? Reason why I ask, is I found a scrap piece of 3/8" Plexiglas at my work -hey it's free. I guess if it doesn't work I could always use 1/2" MDF wood. But Plexiglas seems pretty cool.
Anybody know where the best place to get the Polk GNX10 DVC? I saw a couple of places on the internet for about $69 but do not know of the reputation of these companies. |
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| DaleB |
| Yes, I believe 3/8 will work fine. Plexi is quite rigid. |
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| DaveI |
| If you're still considering the Polk GNX, I'll go in with you on the two-for-one at Crutchfield. I think it would end up being $65 each...I'm only about 20 minutes from SJ. |
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| DaleB |
quote:
Originally posted by DaveI
If you're still considering the Polk GNX, I'll go in with you on the two-for-one at Crutchfield. I think it would end up being $65 each...I'm only about 20 minutes from SJ.
Emerald01 is in South San Jose. When will you make it down here in 20 min? at 2 am in the morning? :D :D |
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| DaveI |
| ...although I do drive pretty fast from time to time. Then again, if I can get my sub for under $70, I'll do whatever I have to.:D |
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| DaleB |
quote:
Originally posted by DaveI
...although I do drive pretty fast from time to time. Then again, if I can get my sub for under $70, I'll do whatever I have to.:D
"Well, you see officer it was like this..."
:14: :confused: |
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| AcuraPhile |
DaleB,
What did you use to cut the plexiglass with? |
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| DaleB |
I had it done at Tap Plastics (only on the West Coast, I'm sure there are similar stores). I did not have a scroll saw and wanted someone else to screw it up! :D
Anyway. they did a good job. It's not that easy unless you have experience with that sort of thing. Cost me $30 all together, but worth it to have it done right. I drilled the holes (big deal). |
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| AcuraPhile |
| Smart. That is a great looking mount! Thanks for the info. |
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| Emerald01 |
DaveI,
Thanks for the offer on the Crutchfield deal. But it appear Crutchfield only has the single voice coil version. I really want the DVC version. As I mentioned, I did see some DVC versions on sale for about $69 (shipping not included) on the internet. But these companies are not actual Polk distributors. Warrenties are the same period but covered by individual companies. I would like to hear if anybody else perchased the Polk subs from these types of companies. Heck, I about to it myself and take chance- I think it's pretty safe...
Mushman, if your listening, where did you get yours? And if you don't mind how much was it?
Dale, thanks for the info on the spacer. |
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| Mushman |
I got mine from a friend who works at Polk. Cost me about $46 shipped. Can only get one per year though.
Definitely get from an authorized dealer. Had a pair of 6x9 go out on my wifes Subaru and they shipped me new ones.
Excellent company as far as customer feedback. I actually emailed them (link from www.polkaudio.com) about what they recommended for the MDX and the DVC model came up.
Good luck getting one, you will be very happy. |
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| Emerald01 |
thanks mushman,
So when the next year coming up? Just kidding, I'm not going to ask you to get me anything, unless you really want to! ;) But honestly, what kind of deal is that one sub a year? What if you needed a pair?
BTW, how thick is your spacer? Do you think a 3/8" spacer is good enough? Dale seems to think so. I believe the DVC speaker depth is the same as the single. Just want to make sure. |
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| Mushman |
I made a 1/2 inch spacer only because tat is what size I had at home and my wife is sick and tired of me spending money on the X.
The DVC is the exact same dimensions as the 4 ohm.
Polk's employee purchase policy is actually (2) subs per year. I first got the 4 ohm version, but then sold it on the site and got the DVC version. Guess I am just lucky my friend isn't into good quality speakers too much. You have to see my home Polk system - you wouldn't even believe what I paid for it. :)
So, I had both the 4 and DVC version and both specs are the same as far as size goes. If you make a trim ring for the 4 ohm version and then get the DVC, you can definitely use the same trim ring.
Good luck and let me know how it turns out.
Mush |
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| DaveI |
DVC version:
Overall Frequency Response 18 - 400Hz
Nominal Impedance 8 (dual 4) ohms
Minimum Impedance 6.85 (8 Ohm) ohms
Power Handling (continuous) 175 w
Power Handling (peak) 400 w
Efficiency 93 dB
Voice Coil Diameter: Driver 2" (5.08cm)
Install Dimensions
Full-range Mounting Depth
Top Mount 4-13/16" (12.22cm)
Bottom Mount 5-1/4" (13.34cm)
Cut-out
Driver Cut-out Diameter 9-1/4" (23.50cm)
Single voice coil:
Overall Frequency Response 18Hz - 400Hz
Nominal Impedance 4 ohms
Minimum Impedance 3.59 ohms
Power Handling (continuous) 175 w
Power Handling (peak) 400 w
Efficiency 93 dB
Voice Coil Diameter: Driver 2" (5.08cm)
Install Dimensions
Full-range Mounting Depth
Top Mount 4-13/16" (12.22cm)
Bottom Mount 5-1/4" (13.34cm)
Cut-out
Driver Cut-out Diameter 9-1/4" (23.50cm) |
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| bbalestier |
quote:
Originally posted by DaleB
Here is the spacer I had made from 1/2" plexiglas. I countersunk the speaker mounting holes so they would be flush to the auto body mounting surface. I just used machine screws with washers and nuts on the speaker side. I used 1" screws are fine. (I used 8X32).
:eek:
Dale?
Just wondering if this is still available?
And I'm thinking infinity 10' sub will it fit?
Please let me know.:6: |
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| DaleB |
quote:
Originally posted by bbalestier
:eek:
Dale?
Just wondering if this is still available?
And I'm thinking infinity 10' sub will it fit?
Please let me know.:6:
Available? I never made these on a regular basis. Any other 10" sub should fit IF:
1) Then inside hole is critical. The dimension I used was for the GNX.
The template with the Infinity should have the necessary inside diameter.
2) The 4 mtg. holes to match up with the MDX should certainly be the same, but again, you would have to use the template with the Infinity sub to line up the speaker mtg. holes.
Unless you are handy with scroll saw, etc. take the plexiglass or MDF, etc. and the template fo your desired speaker to a custom stereo shop and have it made up. |
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| bbalestier |
| Thank you you have been very helpful and all at Acuramdx.org:awais: :6: |
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| mdx99 |
quote:
Originally posted by DaleB
Here is the spacer I had made from 1/2" plexiglas. I countersunk the speaker mounting holes so they would be flush to the auto body mounting surface. I just used machine screws with washers and nuts on the speaker side. I used 1" screws are fine. (I used 8X32).
Dale:
I am gathering & ordering all the pieces for the polk subwoofer project. So far these are what I have:
Polk GNX104 from Fry's ($29 on sale)
100 hz low pass filter -4 ohm, 1 lb of polyfill, 3-sheets of sound deadening stuff, loctite superflex RTV sealer from partsexpress. I got some spare speaker cable from my Kenwood front speaker project that I can used for this subwoofer. I also email Subbox.net your nice looking spacer ring picture & drawing asking for a quote to do that donut ring.
what other things do you see that I miss out, will a Honda-Acura 72-7800 speaker connector work or what did you use to splice the Bose subwoofer's connector, the low pass filter to the polk connector, haven't received the low pass filter yet, does it come with bare wire without connectors?
appreciate your input!
:confused: |
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| DaleB |
Well, you don't look confused. Great job it sounds like, especially on the fill, etc.
No, if you look closely at the picture I added crimp connectors to the original wiring. Then additional wires to the GNX.
That sub begs for a good amp. If you really want to make it work like it should. I have not done that yet, but would probably be my next step. And yes, the filter comes with bare wires.
TheyCallMeBruce and maybe one other member had fairly clear instructions how to wire an amp in using the inputs to the stock Bose. |
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| OrinocoMDX |
mdx99 one suggestion I would give you is to NOT crossover the sub at 100Hz but rather 80Hz. 100Hz is a bit high for a sub and is on the threshold of directional freqencies. Basically it will make you more aware that the bass is coming from the rear which is not how bass should be percieved
If you want to do your own crossover here is the numbers for a 80hz 2nd order passive xover that you can make for about $3-5.
code:
o----()()()()----|--------|
| | /
| ----/ |
===== | |
| | |
| ----\ |
| | \
o----------------|--------
The ()()()() is a inductor of value 11.26mH
the ===== is a capacitor of value 351 mF
You should be able to pick those up at any electronics shop. Of course get the closest to the values you can but not 100% important. Make sure it can handle the voltage as well. If you really arent up to it then buy a LPF that will give you around 80hz as a xover point.
Sorry for such a bad drawing but you should get the idea |
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| mdx99 |
quote:
Originally posted by OrinocoMDX
mdx99 one suggestion I would give you is to NOT crossover the sub at 100Hz but rather 80Hz. 100Hz is a bit high for a sub and is on the threshold of directional freqencies. Basically it will make you more aware that the bass is coming from the rear which is not how bass should be percieved
If you want to do your own crossover here is the numbers for a 80hz 2nd order passive xover that you can make for about $3-5.
code:
o----()()()()----|--------|
| | /
| ----/ |
===== | |
| | |
| ----\ |
| | \
o----------------|--------
The ()()()() is a inductor of value 11.26mH
the ===== is a capacitor of value 351 mF
You should be able to pick those up at any electronics shop. Of course get the closest to the values you can but not 100% important. Make sure it can handle the voltage as well. If you really arent up to it then buy a LPF that will give you around 80hz as a xover point.
Sorry for such a bad drawing but you should get the idea
Pretty diagram, like a robot! but I had already order a 100 hz filter from partsexpress, being a layman in electricity, I just follow what most members did in the past to replace the Bose subwoofer, I don't think I am able to build a little circuit myself even though I did take basic electricity course in my first year of engineering but it's just theory, not a practical course at all.
Tell me whether this will work in splicing the factory wires to the low pass filter and to the polk subwoofer. thinking to get the Honda 72-7800 speaker connection adapter and splice the bare wires of the low pass filter in between before connecting to the subwoofer. is that mean I have to cut the honda adaptor in half to splice them. :confused: |
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| DaleB |
quote:
Originally posted by OrinocoMDX
mdx99 one suggestion I would give you is to NOT crossover the sub at 100Hz but rather 80Hz. 100Hz is a bit high for a sub and is on the threshold of directional freqencies. Basically it will make you more aware that the bass is coming from the rear which is not how bass should be percieved
Not a bad suggestion, Orinoco, but best applied to a home environment with higher grade components. Depending on the response of the front speakers. Quite frankly you will find with all the isolation from the seating and the interior in general that any directionality will be minimal if at all noticeable.
The location of the door speakers actually creates small separate sound rooms in the front and 2nd row. Probably do largely to their location being low, and the high seat backs.
In addition, while door speakers with a better response at 80-100Hz might demand a lower cutoff for the sub, there is chance of a slight dip in that range with door speakers of the more common variety, vs. high-end components.
A bigger concern might be insufficient isolation on the sub mount and the surrounding area to avoid sympathetic vibration of body parts, etc. But that would vary with the listener. Some like to drive the bass to no end!
Of course, with a real high end system, you can use adjustable crossovers and tune the system. Still within a compromised environment at best. |
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| kudo |
| I got one of those spacer ring from Subbox.net and was able to installed my sub which as a mounting depth of 5 7/16" It was a perfect fit, I was able to put the stock grill cover back on aslo! |
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| OrinocoMDX |
DaleB correct that is why I have stated here a couple times that where the sub is in you will need to dynamat and dynaxorb the metal behind the rear panel. Not only to help in rattles but also using trying to keep it as sealed as possible using IB. Now as for the speakers being low I can only guess thats a < 2004 trait as my 2004 has the 6.5s about armrest level if not higher. I will show ya what I mean when I post pics when im fully done my install.
But still 100Hz you are in the midbass range(hell even at 80 you are too) and you will get some notes from a floor tom or other drums that really should be handled by a midbass driver. But yes I know not everyone is an audiophile nor needs the higher end gear but I try to help with little things more than products. Its all in the install man :)
BTW just looked at the Inifinity Kappas and Reference 2 ways as it seems as though that is what most people are getting or being suggested to get by members here. Anyways they can go down to 45Hz(of course this would require a small enclosure to do so but it will go down to 80Hz no problem in the door.
I wont comment on the directional part of your statement as I havent really done enough aiming yet with my Focals so Im going in with theory and past knowlege of sound. The MDX is a new beast for me for an SQ setup.
Anyways back to the point. Anyone doing this install should properly mount the sub it will sound about 200% better than if you just throw it in and wire it up. Use MDF for rings if you dont like plexi also heres a tip that someone passed on to me. Use modeling clay around the spacer ring to make sure thier is no air leakage from the spacer ring and the metal. Trust me this works great.
Also I am an IASCA SQ judge so if there is any questions anyone has about good sound quality dont hesitate to ask because if I cant help I know quite a few top quality competitors and other judges that can help ya. |
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| mdx99 |
quote:
Originally posted by kudo
I got one of those spacer ring from Subbox.net and was able to installed my sub which as a mounting depth of 5 7/16" It was a perfect fit, I was able to put the stock grill cover back on aslo!
Glad to hear that cause I am planning to order one from them, just waiting for their return email for the price of the donut ring that Dale sketched up.:) |
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| DaleB |
quote:
Originally posted by OrinocoMDX
DaleB correct that is why I have stated here a couple times that where the sub is in you will need to dynamat and dynaxorb the metal behind the rear panel. Not only to help in rattles but also using trying to keep it as sealed as possible using IB. Now as for the speakers being low I can only guess thats a < 2004 trait as my 2004 has the 6.5s about armrest level if not higher. I will show ya what I mean when I post pics when im fully done my install.
But still 100Hz you are in the midbass range(hell even at 80 you are too) and you will get some notes from a floor tom or other drums that really should be handled by a midbass driver. But yes I know not everyone is an audiophile nor needs the higher end gear but I try to help with little things more than products. Its all in the install man :)
BTW just looked at the Inifinity Kappas and Reference 2 ways as it seems as though that is what most people are getting or being suggested to get by members here. Anyways they can go down to 45Hz(of course this would require a small enclosure to do so but it will go down to 80Hz no problem in the door.
I wont comment on the directional part of your statement as I havent really done enough aiming yet with my Focals so Im going in with theory and past knowlege of sound. The MDX is a new beast for me for an SQ setup.
Anyways back to the point. Anyone doing this install should properly mount the sub it will sound about 200% better than if you just throw it in and wire it up. Use MDF for rings if you dont like plexi also heres a tip that someone passed on to me. Use modeling clay around the spacer ring to make sure thier is no air leakage from the spacer ring and the metal. Trust me this works great.
Also I am an IASCA SQ judge so if there is any questions anyone has about good sound quality dont hesitate to ask because if I cant help I know quite a few top quality competitors and other judges that can help ya.
You obviously have a lot of experience in auto sound to say the least. It is true, the ideal speaker response (as they are mounted in less than ideal enclosures by being in car doors) can hardly be realized. Especially at modest power levels. Of course the difference from the inferior stock speakers is still quite striking.
However, 45-20,000 Khz sounds great on the surface, but without a response curve it does not tell much. More power would be needed at lower frequencies, about where it would start rolling off.
While you don't want sound leaking around and defeating the effect of the sub's baffle, I would think an airtight seal would not mean much just using the rear quarter panel as an enclosure. It is hardly airtight. Only a separate isolated enclosure could be effectively sealed (with the appropriate driver of course). I used dynamat as a gasket for the sub, as I did for all the speakers. Even at that, I sealed mine quite well, as it just seemed to be the right thing to do! Go figure....
I probably should expand a bit on what else I did. Partly to get your feedback, and to explain how I arrived at some of my impressions.
I used better Bostons in the front doors but maintained Infinitys in the rear doors, unless of course you want to be sure 2nd row passengers receive the same quality of sound. It was a cost consideration plus the difficulty in finding discounted BAs. I think leaving the original speakers in the 2nd row would have degraded the overall sound. For much the same reason I disconnected the stock door tweeters, and the essentially useless twizzler in the roof.
Not that the Bostons are that much better than the Infinitys. But they DO have better low end extension, and I am using 100 Hz inline bypass filters (yes, the poor man's crossover) with them. Mainly to reduce excessive resonance in the door panels. Besides the dynamat speaker gaskets, I placed some dynamat on the inside of the outer door sheetmetal. Resonance in the doors is another reason not have too much bass extension of the mid-woofers. Unless you have an excellent mounting system. For most of us novice auto-audiophiles, that is a bigger consideration than directionality which is limited by the environment I believe.
But Hell, I still use the stock amps!
Anyway, the more experienced people we have on here the better we can all benefit. Especially now, when video systems are becoming common place, and other multi-channel arrangements, like DVD-A are being installed by auto manufacturers.
Thanks in advance for continuing to share your knowledge and expertise. |
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| OrinocoMDX |
Thanks DaleB. I may have experience in car audio sound but as for sound quality with an MDX I am just beginning. I will know more once my system is finished the initial phase. I probably will never be finished totally with it but as long as I can achieve what I want from it I will be happy. This is the first time I chose a car for SQ based on the car rather than choose the car based on the system. You are right to the fact that the back system is far from a sealed enclosure but I do think doing the little things can make a world of difference in terms of noise rattle. No one should think that when I say Dynamat i mean you NEED to use that product I just mean a sound deadening material. There is as good if not better quality products out there like Brown Bread, RAMMAT, etc
mdx99 Im not sure how the factory sub is done as I left it all in place and wasnt concerned about it staying there. But if you can get 2 adapters for the sub and the amp to go to your LPF then I would suggest it as splicing wires and such Im not a big fan of. I believe that the more stock you leave it the easier it will be on resale value.
And Im happy to help where I can as a good sound in a car can make that trip seem shorter or if ya got some volume level it makes it easier to drown out the kids fighting in the backseat :) As for DVD-A i notice that the new TL has it now. I wish more companies would get on the DVD-A bandwagon as it really nice sound. I have it at home and just love the quality of the seperated channels. But a slight pain paying for those cables(im sure the store loved it though) :) |
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| DaleB |
Yes, I use the word 'dynamat' generically. There are some better and more interesting materials now.
For the those not fully appreciating the 'treatment' I like the analogy of a pie tin. Hold it by the edges and flick your finger at the center.
Now do the same with a square of dampening at the back. |
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| bbalestier |
quote:
Originally posted by mdx99
Dale:
You'll have to solder it together with shrink tubing personal pref that's what I'd do.
I don't have a low pass.
But your rite on track looks like you got covered.
Peace.
I am gathering & ordering all the pieces for the polk subwoofer project. So far these are what I have:
Polk GNX104 from Fry's ($29 on sale)
100 hz low pass filter -4 ohm, 1 lb of polyfill, 3-sheets of sound deadening stuff, loctite superflex RTV sealer from partsexpress. I got some spare speaker cable from my Kenwood front speaker project that I can used for this subwoofer. I also email Subbox.net your nice looking spacer ring picture & drawing asking for a quote to do that donut ring.
what other things do you see that I miss out, will a Honda-Acura 72-7800 speaker connector work or what did you use to splice the Bose subwoofer's connector, the low pass filter to the polk connector, haven't received the low pass filter yet, does it come with bare wire without connectors?
appreciate your input!
:confused:
:18: |
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| mdx99 |
Well, I went to Home Depot and pick up 1 piece of 5/8" x12" round precut particle board for $2, also picked up a Dremel rotary tool and jig saw, 16ga wires, connectors etc.
Spent an hour just to do the donut spacer ring and drilled all the 8 holes, now I am all set, waiting for the low pass filter by mail.
Thanks everyone for the advices. |
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| mdx99 |
Finally did it last night.
Here is the cheesy paper bose with the new space ring. |
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| mdx99 |
| Notice the red (+ve) .25/16ga. female connector and the smaller black (-ve) .225??/16 ga female connector from the bose subwoofer's tiny amp. |
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| mdx99 |
| use a dremel rotary grinder and thinner the male connecor (,25/16ga) to fix the bose's factory's black -ve female connector. |
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| mdx99 |
| I took out the factory polyfill at the trunk behind the Bose's and put a lots of dynamat in the trunk and around the flange of the opening. |
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| mdx99 |
| Here is the 100Hz low pass filter for the new Polk subwoofer. |
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| mdx99 |
Now connect the low pass filter's red +ve 16 ga wire, splice it with splice connector and about 1.5 ft of 16ga speaker wire and connect it to the bose's red +ve female connector. Do the same with the black -ve wire with the grinded male connector so it can fit tight to the bose's black -ve female connector.
Got the low pass filter from Partsexpress.com, they also carry compatible dynamat sheet for only $1.95 each, looks exactly the same as the regular dynamat that sells for $6 - $7 per sheet at place like circuit city. |
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| mdx99 |
| I also put some plastic flex to cover up the wires. stick a piece of 3M velcor dual lock tape at the back of the low pass filter and another piece of velcor at the lower trunk so the filter can be placed at rest. |
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| mdx99 |
| install the spacer ring with 8-#8 machine bolts & nuts to the polk and connected the wires with 2 -16ga female connectors to the polk's terminal. Put 1 lb of polyfills around the hole of the subwoofer, it's now packed. |
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| mdx99 |
| another view of the polk |
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| mdx99 |
| This bose's paper cone will be listed on ebay. |
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| mdx99 |
| Voila! Polk gnx104 installed.:2: |
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| mdx99 |
| a closer view, did you hear the bass!!! it even vibrated the license plate so much that I have to put some pads between the plate and the frame and the sheet metal of the car :2: |
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| OrinocoMDX |
| Excellent job mdx99. Im glad you did the dynamat on the back to stop the backwaves. 1 more tip for you is when putting the cover back on I would get some butal rubber (in playdoh form) and go around the outside of the indentation as well as around where the clips go in. This should help on rattling issues |
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| bbalestier |
quote:
Originally posted by mdx99
a closer view, did you hear the bass!!! it even vibrated the license plate so much that I have to put some pads between the plate and the frame and the sheet metal of the car :2:
:18:
Cool nice work.
Just wondering if you added a power amp if not how do you like it with the 100HZ LP filter? |
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| mdx99 |
quote:
Originally posted by OrinocoMDX
Excellent job mdx99. Im glad you did the dynamat on the back to stop the backwaves. 1 more tip for you is when putting the cover back on I would get some butal rubber (in playdoh form) and go around the outside of the indentation as well as around where the clips go in. This should help on rattling issues
Hmm, good advice, didn't think about that, I will find some playdoh from my kid's stuff to stick around the speaker 's cover. |
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| mdx99 |
quote:
Originally posted by bbalestier
:18:
Cool nice work.
Just wondering if you added a power amp if not how do you like it with the 100HZ LP filter?
No new amp for now. good enough for my purpose for now. Bass is definitely better than before, solid but not powerful cause of the small factory amp, but it's okay. |
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| OrinocoMDX |
Im not talking about playdoh itself. Its butal rubber in a form that feels like playdoh. Its plyable, moldable, etc but still is rubber. Not sure if playdoh will work quite as well but anything is worth a shot
Again good work and excellent pics for those that want to do the same setup |
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| bbalestier |
quote:
Originally posted by mdx99
No new amp for now. good enough for my purpose for now. Bass is definitely better than before, solid but not powerful cause of the small factory amp, but it's okay.
:2:
Thanks I'm happy also no LP filter and $30.00 Pyle Driver.
I used www.subbox.net for the mounting ring.
It's all good.
Peace. |
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| mdx99 |
quote:
Originally posted by bbalestier
:2:
Thanks I'm happy also no LP filter and $30.00 Pyle Driver.
I used www.subbox.net for the mounting ring.
It's all good.
Peace.
I didn't buy the ring from subbox.net, how much they want for it? $50? I got this $2 piece of wood from home depot and did it myself, but I did spend like $90 worth of equipment, well I need those saw & drill for next project anyway. |
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| mdx99 |
quote:
Originally posted by OrinocoMDX
Im not talking about playdoh itself. Its butal rubber in a form that feels like playdoh. Its plyable, moldable, etc but still is rubber. Not sure if playdoh will work quite as well but anything is worth a shot
Again good work and excellent pics for those that want to do the same setup
Where can I get those rubber? Thanks. |
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| DaleB |
quote:
Originally posted by mdx99
Thanks for the infos, they want $9 for shipping a $4.6 tape, I think I'll try to find it at Home depot when I have time.
You might do searches on the brand. Did not see the prices on that website. So many rip you on S&H.
Also, check an RV supplier if around your area. I know I had worked with similar material before but can't remember where I got it. |
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| mdx99 |
quote:
Originally posted by mdx99
Here is the 100Hz low pass filter for the new Polk subwoofer. I like that, Made in USA!
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| mdx99 |
| FYI, my bose subwoofer was sold for $40 at Ebay.:) |
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| Emerald01 |
quote:
FYI, my bose subwoofer was sold for $40 at Ebay.
:eek:
Don't you feel a little bad that your ripping someone off? I guess it's okay if he knows what's he's getting and thinks it's worth it. "A sucker born everyday." |
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| DaleB |
quote:
Originally posted by Emerald01
:eek:
Don't you feel a little bad that your ripping someone off? I guess it's okay if he knows what's he's getting and thinks it's worth it. "A sucker born everyday."
Should an Ebay seller always educate a potential customer? Besides it probalby cost more if you ordered it from Acura. 73 bucks I think.
Sounds like a real deal to me!
You do have to wonder why someone would want to buy one. |
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| mdx99 |
quote:
Originally posted by Emerald01
:eek:
Don't you feel a little bad that your ripping someone off? I guess it's okay if he knows what's he's getting and thinks it's worth it. "A sucker born everyday."
It's call free market, duh. We don't like it but that doesn't mean someone else don't want it, after all, a new Bose subwoofer will sell for $80 by the dealer, so it's still a good deal for someone who likes it.:2: |
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| 04mdx4sq |
| Nice installs, I only have one question. Why is everyone using an in-line crossover when the factory amp is electronically crossed over? At this point it seems to me that all you are doing is absorbing energy and changing the phase of the woofer. |
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| phins2rt |
quote:
Originally posted by 04mdx4sq
Nice installs, I only have one question. Why is everyone using an in-line crossover when the factory amp is electronically crossed over? At this point it seems to me that all you are doing is absorbing energy and changing the phase of the woofer.
Maybe the 04s are crossed over, but the earlier models all had full range subwoofers! Nice, huh? |
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| 04mdx4sq |
| Nice.....Bose is a 4 letter word |
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| timbrwolf9 |
quote:
Originally posted by phins2rt
Maybe the 04s are crossed over, but the earlier models all had full range subwoofers! Nice, huh?
04 appears to be the same full range subwoofer. I can hear vocals coming out of my stock sub.:rolleyes: |
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| eurohazard |
quote:
04 appears to be the same full range subwoofer. I can hear vocals coming out of my stock sub.
Is this true? I have noticed the same thing, but I dismissed it because my ears might have been picking up the vocals from the rear channel. I am really curious! |
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| deepstang |
| i want to get the infinity perfect 10.1d, but it has a mounting depth of 6". do | | | |
