| oceanMDX |
| Could someone be so kind to post detailed instructions on how to change the transmission fluid in the X? Do any washers or gaskets have to be changed as well as the oil? |
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| DaleB |
Yes, washers should be changed too. Do some searches, this has been discussed off and on for over a year now.
Use only Honda's ATF as called out in the manual. |
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| oceanMDX |
| I did the search before I posted, but came up with nothing. It would be nice if someone would just post exactly what must be done to change the transmission fluid. |
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| rvehock |
| Yes, I bought this manual and it is very informative, worth the money for sure:4: |
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| oceanMDX |
Deltajetfixer:
quote:
Try http://www.helminc.com .
That's a good idea, except I can't obtain the shop manual in Mexico (here for the winter). Could you post the instructions here?
:confused: |
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| TheyCallMeBruce |
quote:
Originally posted by oceanMDX
Deltajetfixer:
That's a good idea, except I can't obtain the shop manual in Mexico (here for the winter). Could you post the instructions here?
:confused:
Call this number and ask them to ship to your location in Mexico, 1-800-782-4356. A book can be shipped anywhere.
You can get the ATF and crush washer from any Honda dealer in Mexico. My dealer looked up the info and indicated 12 quarts for a triple flush. I think I didn't get any washers because it was the standard 14mm oil change washers I already have. You might as well do the VTM at the same time (if you can get the fluid shipped to you), but it uses an 18 and 20 mm washer.
What is it you want to know? You drain, . . . and fill. Idle in N, R, D5 for 3-4 minutes and do it all over again. 3X, if you triple flush, which is documented but never performed by a dealer, unless you specify to do so and pay for the extra material and labor. Your own owner's manual indicates the ATF capacities for an ATF change (ignore the "total" fluid qty, unless you are replacing the transmission with a new one). There is no pan to drop, or filter to replace (there is a filter, but not a maintenance interval replacement type). As long as you know that ATF level is checked with the engine running, I'm sure you'll figure it out. Naturally, on your last refill, you pour in the last quart a bit at a time, moving gears around between each increment until you are near full. If you go over the full line substantially, you need to perform a partial drain to get the level back within specs. Don't leave it too full, it will cause problems to tiresome to describe.
P.S. the ATF fill pipe is significantly smaller than in other vehicles, too small to use a conventional ATF funnel. I use a funnel designed for pouring fuel into backpacking stoves, from an outdoor shop, in conjunction with an ATF style funnel. Good luck.
If you didn't get the hint, we encourage you to get the service manual. Saves everybody time and effort. |
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| oceanMDX |
Am I right to assume that the "AFT fill pipe" is the same pipe that holds the dip stick?
quote:
Call this number and ask them to ship to your location in Mexico, 1-800-782-4356. A book can be shipped anywhere.
I phoned that number, but it doesn't work in Mexico - no surprise there. As far as shipping the manual anywhere; yes, they can ship. The problem is in the getting! If it isn't stolen in the Mexican mail system, it may take 7 months for it to get here - depending from where it is mailed. It would have to be shipped by a courier that has operations down here, but that may be possible. It's better just to pick the manual up in the US. If the closest Honda dealer (Tijuana) by road wasn't 1,100 miles away from where I am located - I wouldn't have to ask about any of this. I can't even order the transmission fluid from the shops down here, I'll have to have a friend bring in down with them. I just had the transmission (and VTM) fluid changed in Las Vegas, but when I arrived here in Cabo San Lucas, the transmission fluid was burned (very brown looking) - for NO GOOD REASON! |
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| ardvarkus |
No, not the dip stick. There is another fill plug. 17mm. Should have a paint mark- near the dip stick..
See, here a picture is worth....
Try Fedex. I use them to mexico all the time. Better yet, call a friend and have them get the manual and send it as DOCUMENTS....less customs hassle.
But maybe someone with a scanner might oblige...
Ard |
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| oceanMDX |
Yes, I see it! The "fill" plug is behind the dip stick (toward the dash) and is painted white. :2:
We're making huge progress here guys/gals, don't give up on me now! ;) Just one more question and the information will be complete for others in the future (in search engine). Just where is the "drain plug"?
PS. I'm going to try to have friends get the manual and bring it down here with three jugs of transmission fluid. |
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| TheyCallMeBruce |
quote:
Originally posted by oceanMDX
Just where is the "drain plug"?
PS. I'm going to try to have friends get the manual and bring it down here with three jugs of transmission fluid.
Hate to be the bearer of bad news, but if you already changed your ATF, you might have realized tht 3 quarts is not enough.
1. The manual, both your owners manual and the service manual, states apx. 4 quarts for a simple drain and refill.
2. If you do this, you are only replacing 1/3 of the ATF fluid. There's 12 quarts in the system. You need to drain and refill 3 times to remove just 71% of the fluid (the existing fluid is diluted with new each time you drain and refill, removing a combination of old and new fluid each subsequent time you do this. You need 12 quarts to do it right).
3. The "drain plug" is at the bottom of the tranny on the driver's side and is differentiated from all the other bolts that hold the tranny together with a distinct bolt head with a square hole. This bolt head accepts a square 3/8" socket drive (with no socket attached, better use a breaker bar, very frozen), just like the VTM plugs. Drain plug requires an 18mm crush washer, fill hole needs a huge 24mm washer. You can have your friend get these from the dealer when he or she picks up the 12 quarts of Honda ATF. |
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| oceanMDX |
| By "jugs", I meant what looked like gallon jugs that I thought I saw at the Acura dealer. Does Honda ATF-Z1 not come in gallon jugs? |
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| TheyCallMeBruce |
quote:
Originally posted by oceanMDX
By "jugs", I meant what looked like gallon jugs that I thought I saw at the Acura dealer. Does Honda ATF-Z1 not come in gallon jugs.
I asked about this because I needed 12 quarts and was very unhappy to learn that ATF is only available in quart size. I said I was willing to wait for a special order if he could get it in gallon size, or any other large size. Absolutely not was the response. But he discounted the ATF from $3.95 to $2.70 because of my quantity and obvious disappointment.
I also got a gallon jug of VTM fluid, which is possibly what you saw at the dealer. If you haven't performed the 30k service on the VTM yet, I suggest you take care of it at the same time as the ATF. You will need a pump for the VTM fluid. Valvoline's pump doesn't fit, but Sta-lube works perfectly. Also get the 18 & 20mm crush washers for the VTM (AT uses 18 & 24mm, get those also w/the fluids). I was wrong about the size of the crush washers previously, went by what the younger parts guy told me, he was wrong twice, both times I found out with an empty VTM and empty tranny (real pisser). Specify by size the washers you need or they might give you the wrong ones. Have your friend attempt to get the parts at least a week early in case they don't have the right washers in stock, especially the extra large 24mm washer.
I just changed both the VTM and ATF (triple drain) yesterday. Only thing I would do differently is to get a 15" length of 5/8" clear plastic hose to fit onto the spout of a funnel. Its pretty tight in the engine compartment where you need to pour in the tranny fluid. A 15-18" extenion bar helps to reach the fill plug as well (17mm socket). Make sure you drive at different speeds for a few minutes prior to the first drain and between each drain to cycle the fluids through the torque converter and various parts of the valve body and to heat up the fluid to operating temperature (beware, it gets pretty hot when in direct contact for more than a few seconds).
There are a number of useful detailed pictures on the thread "transmission oil" in the Problems forum.
Good luck. |
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| oceanMDX |
quote:
I was wrong about the size of the crush washers previously, went by what the younger parts guy told me, he was wrong twice, both times I found out with an empty VTM and empty tranny (real pisser).
My friends just arrived here in Mexico tonight. Sure enough, they brought 3 quarts of tranny oil with them. They were told by the parts guy at Honda that my vehicle requires only 2 1/2 quarts of AT oil per change! Perhaps Honda ought to train their partsmen a whole lot better than they are presently doing.
You must be correct; the gallon-sized jug that I saw at the dealer likely was the VTM fluid. Ironically, I was going to bring AT fluid down here to Mexico with me. I didn't only because I went in for the 30,000 miles (severe) maintenance service only a week before I drove down here, so I thought I wouldn't need it.
Oh well, I have other friends who will be driving down here shortly. I'll just ask them for 9 quarts of ATF-Z1 and the crush washers. And thanks for the heads-up on the crush washer sizes.
:3: |
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| TheyCallMeBruce |
quote:
Originally posted by oceanMDX
My friends just arrived here in Mexico tonight. Sure enough, they brought 3 quarts of tranny oil with them. They were told by the parts guy at Honda that my vehicle requires only 2 1/2 quarts of AT oil per change! Perhaps Honda ought to train their partsmen a whole lot better than they are presently doing.
You must be correct; the gallon-sized jug that I saw at the dealer likely was the VTM fluid. Ironically, I was going to bring AT fluid down here to Mexico with me. I didn't only because I went in for the 30,000 miles (severe) maintenance service only a week before I drove down here, so I thought I wouldn't need it.
Oh well, I have other friends who will be driving down here shortly. I'll just ask them for 9 quarts of ATF-Z1 and the crush washers. And thanks for the heads-up on the crush washer sizes.
:3:
One good thing about the Pilot is that you can now get all the crushable washers and fluids for your AT and VTM from Honda, so if the Acura dealer you send your friend to doesn't have them (call first), have them try a conveniently located Honda dealer. At least there's a Honda dealer just about everywhere. The 24 mm ATF fill plug crush washer is harder to get (techs don't usually change them, but might charge you for them anyhow), so you need to specify Honda part# 90441-PK4-000
Any Honda dealers in Baja? |
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| oceanMDX |
| The closest Honda dealer is in Tijuana, about 1,100 miles away unless you cross the Sea of Cortes which would be even worse timewise. |
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| DaleB |
quote:
Originally posted by paul123
click on this link
http://www.acuramdx.org/forums/show...89459#post89459
Your experience strongly supports a one time change every 7500 miles. That is not normal in my mind, but the dealers just falling back on the warranty, "oh well if it goes bad it will be replaced".. bothers me. Not that I blame the dealers, they are only parroting Acura.
Knowledge is power, now you see the true value of this forum. More info the better, we have to rely on everyone to present it. |
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| MDXLuvr |
| why do i have to use honda ATF? I was thinking of using Mobil 1 synthetic instead. The manual states that it might change the shift quality. I am willing to take the chance, s long as it doesn't void my warranty.;) |
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| DaleB |
I doubt it would void your warranty unless you had a tranny failure, they did some analysis to prove it was the wrong fluid, unlikely.
It seems the last time I read the specs for Mobil 1 syn. ATF it did not clearly say it was compatible with Honda's recommedations, only Mercon III and quite a few others.
I don't plan to do anything beyond the mfrs. requirements for severe service.
If I do it may just delay something bad happening. I would just as soon it fail 'early' if it has a potential problem. With just over 8000 I figure I will learn more based on the experience of others, which so far says the tranmission has been fine overall, for most owners. |
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| TheyCallMeBruce |
quote:
Originally posted by MDXLuvr
why do i have to use honda ATF? I was thinking of using Mobil 1 synthetic instead. The manual states that it might change the shift quality. I am willing to take the chance, s long as it doesn't void my warranty.;)
Why?
The manual specifically indicates Honda ATF-Z1, and that temporary use of any other fluid should be drained and refilled with Honda fluid as soon as possible. Its not a recommendation. It is a specification. A very specific specifiication, with no "if, and or buts."
I know; along with Honda specific steering fluid and VTM fluid, its probably just a marketing ploy to push its proprietary fluid products and encourage owners to have their Hondas/Acuras serviced at the dealer. I hate being held hostage to this arbitrary monopoly as much as you.
However, does the possible (unproven?) benefit outweigh the increased risk for damaging your transmission? We don't know if it will cause any problems, maybe it won't, but we also don't know if it is safe. In mountain climbing, risk is assessed as probability of incident multiplied by severity of consequence. So while the probability of damage is low, the consequence is unacceptably high. I think they have us by the gonads.
Hey, it could be worse. They could suddenly start specifying Honda motor oil exclusively. :( |
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| ardvarkus |
quote:
Originally posted by MDXLuvr
why do i have to use honda ATF? I was thinking of using Mobil 1 synthetic instead. The manual states that it might change the shift quality. I am willing to take the chance, s long as it doesn't void my warranty.;)
There is a very practical reason: If you use non-Honda fluids, AND you subsequently have an "issue" with the transmission (like it shifts poorly, or otherwise acts up) Acura will claim (or may claim) it is due to the fluid.... "we told you it could affect shift quality"... If you had a total failure, then it would be hard for them to claim it falls under the disclaimer of "shift quailty".
Simply put, it will cloud the issue of warranty claims.
Personally I use Mobil 1 syn ATF in my other vehicles, and believe it offers better high temp performance (less thermal breakdown, more stable viscosity with temp) than dino- worthwhile it ATF since it is rarely changed. I don't use syn motor oil- too frequently changed to be a benefit IMHO.
Ard |
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| oceanMDX |
Good points... but I'd like to know if anyone here has actually tried using Mobil 1 synthetic ATF in their X, and did they find any affect on "shift quality". :confused:
By the way, I'll be changing my ATF fluid in a day or so. I'll just use Honda's Z1 - ATF for the time being. |
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| DaleB |
I do not know if anyone is using synthetic ATF in their X, but this is only ATF ( a synthetic 'blend') that even suggests Acura/Honda is an appropriate application, that I could find. Or, you could believe the Amsoil claim that their product is advised for ALL makes.
http://www.quakerstate.com/pages/pr...ultivehicle.asp
If all these other oil companies do not mention Acura/Honda in their application specs, I would be leary without knowing why. |
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| MDXLuvr |
I seriously doubt that Mobil1 syn ATF is not recommended for Honda/Acuras.
Personally, I feel its just honda marketing. If Honda trannies are failing partially due to poor design(the accord article), and partially due to overheating(the MDX), then it just makes more sense to replace your tranny fluid with Synthetic ATF. This would lead to better heat transfer, etc etc. IMHO, it makes a heck of a lot more sense to replace the tranny with syn ATF, then to replace the engine oil with synthetic oil.
again, i haven't decided, i just wanted to get some opinions.
btw, i have 26,000 miles and have had no tranny issues. Here is a link to MOBIL1 Syn ATF |
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| renov8r |
I honestly do not know if "more is better" in terms of the Viscosity Index ASTM D-2270 and other technical properties of ATF.There are considerable differences in the various synthetic offerings:
http://www.amsoil.com/products/atf.html
http://library.cbest.chevron.com/lu...54?OpenDocument
http://www.royalpurple.com/retail/r...tf/maxatfps.pdf
http://www.synlube.com/prod02.htm
http://dallnd6.dal.mobil.com/GIS/Mo...db?OpenDocument
http://www.redlineoil.com/redlineoil/atfti.htm
My hunch is that the high heat & anti-oxidation properties are VERY desirable, but I would be VERY VERY hesitant to switch over to ANY synthetic without the 'blessing' of Honda. I have to believe that they built the transmission with a SPECIFIC set of viscosity characteristics in mind...
ATF is literally a WORKING FLUID that transfers the power through the torque converter. Yes, it 'cleans &protects' many parts, transfers heat, and lubricates the wear surfaces as well, but the fact that it is the medium of power transmission in the torque converter gives me pause to messing with it...
I would want to DRAIN THE TORQUE CONVERTER COMPLETELY (which requires disassembly of the transmission) before switching over to synth.
I would NOT want to 'invest' in the 12 quarts of fluid, and the shop time to remove/refill the tranny & torque converter. What if the particaular product you choose has horrible shift quality? Would you then drain it all out and start over???
If the REAL Honda fluid ATF-Z1 is inadequate/at fault/suspect it would BEHOOVE Honda to switch over to synth -- the additional cost of the synth fluid would be offset by reduced need for replacing transmissions under warranty... |
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| DaleB |
I think it's less than 9 quarts than 12, but that's besides the point.
It may or may not affect shift quality, if it does not then you are ahead of the game because it will certainly offer better thermal protection.
No auto manufacturer recommends synthetic ATF, that I am aware.
I have no doubt Z1 was crafted for Honda/Acura transmission with specific friction modifiers that are most compatibile with that design.
You will notice the specs on the other ATFs (syn or not) refer to meeting certain requirements of other auto mfrs. but never Honda/Acura with the exception of the Quaker ATF. But they make a general statement, they don't quote any specific Honda requirements.
Regular changes for severe use should be sufficient maintenance. (personally, I would use a dealer that does flushes). And the use of a cooler in the case of towing more than bicycles should be more than enough precaution.
There should be no need to invest one's time and money to get a warm and fuzzy beyond what the manufacturer is providing. Just invest in the extended warranty if you are not sure. At least it will protect the navigator as well should it go belly up, and that's definitely another big ticket item. |
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| oceanMDX |
This is the second time the ATF was changed (something over 30,000 miles on the X now). An Acura dealership changed the ATF once (single fill) about 2,500 miles ago, but the AFT has since turned light brown.
I took my X to a shop down here in Cabo San Lucas, and watched closely as the work was done. The "fill-bolt" was on so tight that the mechanic broke an extension attached to the ratchet - The Acura dealership tightened the bolt too much - but he eventually managed to free the bolt. The "drain-bolt" was no problem and I saw the ATF drain out. It looked red, but it was darker than new oil. 3 1/2 quarts of ATF were added. I drove around for about 20 minutes, making sure the tranny shifted through all the gears, then I returned to the shop for the next drain. This time the oil looked lighter, so I decided that this would be the last change for a while. So we changed the ATF only twice this time. Both "crush-washers" were also changed.
Now the ATF looks okay in my X, so I must have caught the problem early. The magnetic end of the "drain-bolt" didn't have any metal visible on it - but then again, it was cleaned only 2,500 miles ago.
I brought in the ATF and the crush-washers, but they charged me only $8.00 (total) for their labor! How's that for a deal?
Now, I feel better. :7: |
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| oceanMDX |
| I just drove from Cabo San Lucas to Las Vegas and back at speeds up to 105 mph. After checking the color of the transmission fluid, everything looks fine. The difference this time was that the ambient temperatures were much lower so the transmission ran cooler. |
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| TheWorm |
Lotsa tranny and fluid color threads but this one seems most appropriate based on ocean's experiences and comments.
Did an ATF change today (along w/the other 15k & 2yr interval stuff on the severe schedule). First drain was dirty -- not burnt and not too dark, but not the "cherry cough syrup red" of the new fluid. Dirty enough, though, that I figured I'd do a 2nd drain and fill; that drain was clean IMO.
Noted LOTS of crap on the drain plug magnet. Not sure whether it's unusual or not -- this is the first time I've ever changed ATF in any car. I know the magnet's there for a reason, but not sure what a "normal" amount of crud would be.
Hadn't had any shift quality or tranny problems...this is preventive maintenance.
FWIW I filled through the dipstick tube :) |
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| DaleB |
quote:
Originally posted by TheWorm
FWIW I filled through the dipstick tube :)
Was there a particular reason you chose not to use the larger fill hole? |
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| paul123 |
Worm you must of had to have alot of patience to fill in the dip-stick hole, instead of removing the fill cap. Mine had the same at my 15K change which I did, the first was very dirty and even smelled burnt, then got much better buy the second and cherry red by the third. My magnetic drain plug did have alot of small metal pieces on it also, I felt a little to much for a 15K service. I still have not experienced any shifting problems before or after just did as a preventive maintaince.
P.S. I do feel the engine runs alot smoother now at the 18,000 miles and regular oil changes intervals. I even enjoy my suspension much better now that it has broken in. I felt it was to harsh a ride when new, it gets better as you drive it. I guess like a baseball player glove that breaks in. |
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| TheyCallMeBruce |
quote:
Originally posted by paul123
P.S. I do feel the engine runs alot smoother now at the 18,000 miles and regular oil changes intervals. I even enjoy my suspension much better now that it has broken in. I felt it was to harsh a ride when new, it gets better as you drive it. I guess like a baseball player glove that breaks in.
I'm at 38K miles and my wife still complains about the jarring and jerking from the road. We are both more relaxed in her RX. I'm hoping the vibration and harshness will mellow as the shocks and bushings wear-in asap. It seems 1,500 miles on gravel roads last summer didn't wear things out enough. |
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| TheWorm |
quote:
Originally posted by DaleB
Was there a particular reason you chose not to use the larger fill hole?
Don't have a long enough extension; do have a funnel :) It did require a bit of patience but wasn't as bad as I feared it might be -- took about 30secs per quart to load.
And those screws/bolts on the air filter box -- what gorilla is assembling THOSE at the factory? I used an 8" phillips and had to put a wrench on the handle to get enough torque to loosen a couple of them. Mighta been easier with a socket and extension. Hmmm. :D
Quick other reports: air filter (intake) wasn't too bad. Could've waited. a/c pollen filter was NASTY. Whatta ***** that whole process is. VTM4 still to come - I'm doing this in fits-and-starts as time allows.
In other news, MrsWorm has indicated her faith in my maintenance abilities with this comment earlier today: "why don't you drive just the MDX for the next few days, to make sure it still works after all this service you've been doing". Gee, thanks for the vote of confidence, hun. She hasn't noticed the headrest monitors yet, either. So in addition to worrying about getting stranded due to lack of ATF/VTM/Oil or intake clogging, she'll also be able to worry about the car catching on fire :D |
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| TheWorm |
quote:
Originally posted by TheyCallMeBruce
I'm at 38K miles and my wife still complains about the jarring and jerking from the road. We are both more relaxed in her RX. I'm hoping the vibration and harshness will mellow as the shocks and bushings wear-in asap. It seems 1,500 miles on gravel roads last summer didn't wear things out enough.
I can't imagine it's gonna soften up much more...ours seemed to settle way back at 5k or 7.5k. |
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| paul123 |
| How difficult was it to replace this filter? Is this the filter in the interior? behind the glovebox? or under? I'm at 18,000 miles I guess I should look to replace. Any tips? |
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| lausy |
Paul,
The interior a/c pollen filter wasn't too hard to replace. There are detail instructions in here if you do a search. Just remember, when cutting that plastic cross member, use a fresh blade and just push down. It should cut through it like butter. You could also use a Dremel tool if you are careful too! It took me about 30 minutes or less. I waited until 30K like the manual recommends but I think I would do it around 15K-20K next time because it was really dirty. |
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| TheWorm |
quote:
Originally posted by paul123
How difficult was it to replace this filter? Is this the filter in the interior? behind the glovebox? or under? I'm at 18,000 miles I guess I should look to replace. Any tips?
I didn't find it difficult, but it was tedious. It's behind the glove box. Like lausy said, excellent instructions online or in the service manual.
You have to remove the glovebox, which for ease-of-access to one of the bolts, you have to remove the pax kick panel and adjacent kick plate. Cutting the brace isn't difficult - the plastic is soft (I used a small sawblade -- like 1/2 the size of a hacksaw blade). Then there's another metal brace to unscrew/unbolt. Maybe 6 or 8 screws/bolts max (total). Just several steps. Hardest part was hovering the glovebox itself over the mounting points to re-attach. I'm just whining because it COULD have been SO much easier with a relocation or re-orientation (horizontal) of the filter element. |
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| Robyjo |
Did the 3X ATF replacement of my 30K service yesterday. Pain in the a**! The fill bolt was either overtightened or magically tightened, and I HAD to go get some new tools from Sears (poor me, huh?) to open it. Once that was done, the 3X change, drive, drain, etc. was tedious but easy enough.
I had the 15K mile service done by the dealer where they did a 1X drain/fill. Now, at just under 30K, the fluid was VERY brown, smelled pretty burned and the magnetic drain plug was very sludgy. So it's a bit disconcerting, and I'll probably start following deltajetfixer's advice--do a 1X drain/refill w/ every oil change.
So thus ends my 30K service, and I'm happy to report it was a relatively easy if not tedious process. It's been encouraging to know that I have other comrades that have gone through this...
Rob:31: |
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| Robyjo |
OH--forgot this is why I was posting--I went to my local honda dealer to get the washer for the fill bolt, and he said, 'just reuse the old one'. I said, 'what???' He continued on that they don't replace the fill drain bolt washer (the 24mm) on the Pilots, and he doesn't even stock them.
Am I the only one that thinks this is crazy? I can kind of see how the fill bolt may have less pressure on it, and changing that washer would be less crucial than the drain bolt washer (18mm), but I'm guessing this is still not a good practice.
Glad I do my own service! |
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| DaleB |
quote:
Originally posted by Robyjo
Now, at just under 30K, the fluid was VERY brown, smelled pretty burned and the magnetic drain plug was very sludgy.
Rob:31:
Probably an excellent reason to do a flush and not leave about 10% of the old fluid still in there. |
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| deltajetfixer |
quote:
Originally posted by Robyjo
I had the 15K mile service done by the dealer where they did a 1X drain/fill. Now, at just under 30K, the fluid was VERY brown, smelled pretty burned and the magnetic drain plug was very sludgy. So it's a bit disconcerting, and I'll probably start following deltajetfixer's advice--do a 1X drain/refill w/ every oil change.
Rob:31:
YEEHAA! I'm FAMOUS!!!:2: |
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| Robyjo |
quote:
Originally posted by deltajetfixer
YEEHAA! I'm FAMOUS!!!:2:
heck, if you can fix a delta jet...you should know a thing or 2 about our wonderful SUVs! ;) |
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| paul123 |
| Probably a good idea to do a triple flush every 15,000 miles if you want to keep your original transmission. Acura has no problem replacing if it burns out at any time. It's a shame because there is no way this should have to be done at all at these intervals. I'm thinking about getting the Acura trans cooler to maybe help the issue. |
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| DaleB |
quote:
Originally posted by paul123
Probably a good idea to do a triple flush every 15,000 miles if you want to keep your original transmission. Acura has no problem replacing if it burns out at any time. It's a shame because there is no way this should have to be done at all at these intervals. I'm thinking about getting the Acura trans cooler to maybe help the issue.
If only it were a true flush. If the dealer does it, it costs the same or more than a power flush. But at every 15K, esp. if you do it yourself, leaving about 11% of the old fluid in there should be of little consequence. Or adopt the 1X change with every oil change. I like that idea too. But it is definitely something to start early in the life of the car. I am going with a power flush at 22.5K. |
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| deltajetfixer |
quote:
Originally posted by paul123
I'm thinking about getting the Acura trans cooler to maybe help the issue.
Probably a good idea. Knock on wood, I've had the Towing Package since Day One and have been changing out what ATF is drainable at each engine oil change with no problems noted...so far.
Hopefully by diligently monitoring the condition of the ATF directly by looking at it and indirectly through mileage, we'll be able to ward off any premature failure.
I sure would like to know Honda/Acura's reason for the redesign of the transmission. Personally, I don't think the few ft/lbs of torque increase from 2002 to 2003 had anything to do with it.
Didn't someone previously mention that they read somewhere that the transmission failure rate was still "statistically insignificant"? |
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| jford62 |
| Once again, following deltajetfixer's recommendation (thanks again for keeping those jets flying!), I did a drain and fill of the transmission fluid with my oil change (I use Mobil 1 and change at 7,500 miles). The fluid was, once again, darker than I thought it should be. I did a complete flush/fill at 30,000 and this is my second drain/fill since then. I really would be more comfortable with the longevity of this transmission if the fluid looked better. |
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| MDX350 |
| I plan to do a drain and refill every 15K miles (every second oil change) - I think that should be sufficient, since it is twice the recommended frequency even for severe dricing conditions (my driving conditions are pretty moderate). |
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