| vincliu |
| I am going to have the new X this week. Does anyone know what is the break in period. Any special care while driving the new X. What should I check before I sign the paper. |
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| BaldEagle |
If my memory is correct here is what I was told by my dealer for the first 600 miles:
1. Avoid rapid acceleration.
2. No hard braking.
3. Vary engine RPM's. Don't drive with cruise control for long periods of time at same speed and RPM's.
4. No towing.
5. Don't change oil before 7500 miles (3500 severe use), oil has something in it to help break-in, rings seating.
Your dealer should go over these break-in procedures with you when you pick up your X. |
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| vincliu |
| thanks for all the advise |
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| pdempsey |
quote:
Originally posted by vincliu
thanks for all the advise
I would like to add sighting down the sides to the checklist. I picked up a new gold RL a few years ago and it had a body crease that could only be seen at certain angles. The dealer had traded for the color and had not checked it out well. I did not notice it for 3 days because it looked like a shadow or reflection. Dealer fixed it (2 doors repainted), but it was inconvenient. |
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| frostyra |
quote:
Originally posted by BaldEagle
3. Vary engine RPM's. Don't drive with cruise control for long periods of time at same speed and RPM's.
An easy way to do this if you're on the highway at cruising speed and using cruise control, is to manually shift back and forth between 5th and 4th gears every 10 minutes or so. |
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| paul123 |
quote:
Originally posted by vincliu
I am going to have the new X this week. Does anyone know what is the break in period. Any special care while driving the new X. What should I check before I sign the paper.
I broke mine in the old fashion way, just to baby my baby. Don't exceed 55 MPH for the first 1000 miles, varying rpm's when driving. Changed oil & filter at the first 1000 miles to wash out break in lube in motor. Going forward change oil every 3000 miles or 3 months. I don't use synthetic because of my frequent changes. Stick to Acura or Fram oil filters. 5W-20 in winter and 5W-30 in summer. Some people may call this over-maintence but I would rather be safe than sorry. I purchased the vehicle and didn't lease, if I leased I probably wouldn't go to this extreme. |
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| frostyra |
| paul123: "5W-30 in winter and 5W-20 in summer." Isn't that bass-ackwards? It makes no sense to my raised-in-the-PA-oilfields engineering mind. |
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| paul123 |
quote:
Originally posted by frostyra
paul123: "5W-30 in winter and 5W-20 in summer." Isn't that bass-ackwards? It makes no sense to my raised-in-the-PA-oilfields engineering mind.
Thanks for the correction, I always mix them up. Basically use the thicker for added proptection in the summer, and the thinner oil in the winter for the cold starts. |
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| RealWing |
I would strongly suggest you do NOT use Fram oil filters. They are very poorly made. If you do a search on the Internet for "Engine Oil Filter Study" you will get the whole story. This person cut open many oil filters to do an internal inspection and you can see for yourself. Fram was not very happy and Fram lawyers shut him down for a while.
There is also a lot of technical info on oil and filters in the e-book called the Motor Oil Bible at www.motor-oil-bible.com |
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| paul123 |
quote:
Originally posted by RealWing
I would strongly suggest you do NOT use Fram oil filters. They are very poorly made. If you do a search on the Internet for "Engine Oil Filter Study" you will get the whole story. This person cut open many oil filters to do an internal inspection and you can see for yourself. Fram was not very happy and Fram lawyers shut him down for a while.
There is also a lot of technical info on oil and filters in the e-book called the Motor Oil Bible at www.motor-oil-bible.com
Thanks for the information. I presently stick to the auto-manufacturers to get the filters. Acura filters for the MDX and Nissan filters for my wifes 2000 Maxima SE. I agree with you statement as far as the auto makers make a higher quality oil filter. Filters are usually rated on a number of hours of filtering and the auto-makers filters are always the highest rated. I thought that Fram was next best, but not sure if thinks have changed over the years. |
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| miro |
| I picked my 2003 last week. Dealer actually gave me a coupon for a free 1500 ml service and my salesman said I should do it. However the manual specifically asks not to change fluids during break-in period until first scheduled maintenance which is 7500 ml / 3750 ml (normal / severe). Is dealer trying to earn more "service" business? What do you guys think? |
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| DaleB |
quote:
Originally posted by miro
I picked my 2003 last week. Dealer actually gave me a coupon for a free 1500 ml service and my salesman said I should do it. However the manual specifically asks not to change fluids during break-in period until first scheduled maintenance which is 7500 ml / 3750 ml (normal / severe). Is dealer trying to earn more "service" business? What do you guys think?
It's not clear what he wants to do at 1500 miles? Earn more business? Well, it is free. Maybe a carwash & vacuum?
See if he will trade the coupon for a free Starbucks. You will probably get more kick out of that! |
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| miro |
| Actually, what I meant by "earning more service business" is that by not doing what manual recommends might be bad for the engine and in the long run it might bring extra repair and extra business for the service department. |
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| DaleB |
quote:
Originally posted by miro
Actually, what I meant by "earning more service business" is that by not doing what manual recommends might be bad for the engine and in the long run it might bring extra repair and extra business for the service department.
Sorry, I understood, just having a little fun at your expense. I guess the dealership is trying to impress you. Only thing that impresses me is if they do the job right the first time, and charge fairly.
This sounds like a gimmick. Don't change those fluids before the recommended service. |
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